Hades

[Surt]

made the spacers for the oil blocks coz they were balked by the boot studs (i mean the steel part of the oil lines), powder coat them later



made an adjuster screw from a stock cable operated screw (the cable had burnt when occasionally touched the ground while welding went on





fabbing the cable ends



extentions powder coated



made inserts for them from an old cable sleeve, shove them in (hard way) using the vice and white spirit for lube, judged that if i'd used oil or wd40, would of been harder to degrease cables before soldering





soldered



now the cable saga/drama is over, just gunna lube em with trans oil



still gotta do lots of tiny dirty tricks like mounting the oil cooler, feeding and scavenging the turbo, wiring etc

[ozzy1100]

Devil is always in the detail :-)

[Surt]

Devil is always in the detail :-)

yup
also dirizing that not to re invent all the devillish details for the next project

[ozzy1100]

yup
also dirizing that not to re invent all the devillish details for the next project

Ageed :-)

[Surt]

*diarized - the keyboard was drinking, not me, not me

[Surt]

the left cover restored 1 broken ear made from scratch, 6mm thick top welded in





powder coating is next

5mm spacers welded on the front spocket cover as the chain used to saw it coz of a wider tyre

[Surt]

seems legit does it?

[Tony Nitrous]

Normally the bottom of the shock point crosses through the line you have drawn
for the dog-bone linkage that mounts off the swing arm. Hense the need for two links,
one running either side of the shock.

Not knocking yours, just saying its a little different and I know changing the angles and
the ratios has a dramatic effect on compression, but you'll know more than me.

Mine looks more like this google image...

[Surt]

i hear you Tony, thanks heaps for the tip, im gunna keep the ratios but i can fuck up with angles, as i used to a coupla times before.
so ive drawn another variant like yours



and then kinematic schemes for 3 variants, mine look good. yours has a limited turn angle of the swinger but bigger shock travel which is important. i'll sort different variants with a mock up

[Tony Nitrous]

I get a head ache thinking about this stuff! Lol

I picture the cast 3 pointed link (your blue) as turning clockwise under load.
Then look at the point where the dog bone link joins it.
On all mine this point is rearwards and has an upwards swing.
On your design it is forward and closer to a point where it would go the other way (I know it won't)
Something in my head wants to see the angle between where the dogbone joins the 3 point linkage and
the 3 point linkage joins the frame to be 90-degrees or more where yours is a lot less.

Ive used different links to raise bikes and it firms up the suspension quite a bit and I've
used other links to lower bikes for learners and the suspension go's quite soft.

Admittedly mine were with the stock shock and stock 3-pointed link, just different dogbones.

I'm probably wrong and out by a mile !! Keep me informed and I'm happy to be proven wrong.
Your well beyond what I've done and I'm happy to learn from it. Thanks.

[slingy88]

If it were me, I'd reverse it all, use a rocker from the swingarm, with the shock mounted midway, then have short dog bones from the end of this rocker vertically up to the frame.

[Surt]

thats my latest idea slingy, it gets better travel

[slingy88]

thats my latest idea slingy, it gets better travel

If you make the rocker with rose joints on the swingarm arm end, you could have some adjustment of the length of the rocker, which in turn will adjust the distance of the lower shock mount in relation to the swingarm pivot which will give you a bit of adjustment over the leverage on the shock and how hard the suspension is. The frame end dog bones should just allow for this movement.

[Surt]

thanks Tony and Jack, its not a question of construction on this stage, but is about kinematics, rose joints or else would be another one.

here are my 'blue prints' off the monitor

my 1st variant, it gives a good turn angle for the swinger, but poor travel for the shock



heres tony's variant, the turn angle is limited, but probably enough for the swinger travel, the shock's travel is progressive, twice as big than the swinger travel. like its supposed to be.



and my latest variant, everythings just compact and fine, the turn angle is big and the shocks travel is progressive. gonna try this way on a mockup

[slingy88]

That last one looks very similar to a vfr or triumph ssa linkage, which was gonna be my next suggestion, but you got there already. Should work a treat. ;-)

[Surt]

thanks Jack, maybe i should work for them? lol

[Surt]

welded annealed and powder coated: better than new

[oldskool]

impeccable work once again brother surt.

[Surt]

tried a dozen variants and finally sorted the prob with little blood by using buells shock and a home made adjustable Y-shaped dog nah chicken bone, lucky lucky chiken bone! oh yes honey!

[Surt]

impeccable work once again brother surt.

thanks heaps Dylan, im glad you like it brother