Think I have found what Im going to do
http://www.suzukihayabusa.org/forum/...topic=135724.0
Looks easy enough :)
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Think I have found what Im going to do
http://www.suzukihayabusa.org/forum/...topic=135724.0
Looks easy enough :)
Attachment 7028
Bits have started arriving. Cheap Ebay cover
Attachment 7029
Fitted
Attachment 7030
Cut the back out of the busted headlight, saving weight :)
Thought this thread was about Yella's Busa not Another pick on Pete post fest!!!
Hey Yella, looking good mate i like the fork shortening but fuck me alloy fork cartridges and stillsons rough bastards just use a heat gun and a little finnese ...youll need to adjust the damping comp and rebound fairly hard because when the wheel comes down from a start wheelie it will bottom out easily...so looking forward to this big bugger run and race
Seem to have got Pete's pic taking skills but anyway,
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.n...32867384_n.jpg
Thinking leaving the black black and swapping the blue for yellow.
If the postie doesn't start delivering the parts I want he will get a flogging soon.
Next step is to lower it 50mm but waiting fo rthe rear links so I can make sure it sits how I want
cool looking good mate
that blue on the tank is pretty close
So the injector arrived today from Pete. 42 degree's outside fuck knows inside the shed but I have parts so in I go :).
New injector in start it up rev's have picked up so re-adjust seems to be running a little rough but better check the exhaust temp all seem to be about the same so slap the other bits on for a quick test but as soon as I try and load it up to get out the drive it starts to miss. WTF.Head out anyway and it gets worse when you open it up under load so back in and recheck exhaust temps all pretty close number 1 is down a little put the injector wire and no real change. Pull the others noticeable drop.
Thinking it can’t be the injector its been replaced must be ignition I started checking plugs, coils etc finally got back to the injector ended swapping it with number 2 and the fault moved WTF.
Pulled the injector rail for number 1 and spun it so I could run the bike and watch the injector’s spray into a bottle. Old injector half a dribble, good injector from number 2 seemed better, new injector dribble. Some where in doing this I managed to pull the rail apart and spray my crutch with 500ml of petrol needless to say was not and still isn’t fun.
Anyway I got the shits and pulled the screen from the end of the original injector ( it didn’t want to come out but I made it ) put the injector in and fired it up sweet no when you pull the injector wires rpm drops. Now to wait till tomorrow to give it a test up the road see how it goes.
Looks like I'm going to have to clean the fuel system, put an inline filter before the pump and chase up another injector or get these serviced.
Also found a oil leak from the rocker cover area by the looks of it and the sump is covered in crap possibly just the fuel running down and mixing with crude and running off but looks terrible at the moment so will need to sort that aswell
this is why i pulled it ive got five coil packs here and another 4 injectors,it cost me so bloody much and whenever i changed things out ,it never got any better ,if you want the coil packs and all the injectors let me know as there around $300 for the bits i paid for.the last 4 injectors ive got here turned up a week after you picked up the busa.
Busa miss fire sorted. It Rev's clean and picks up 1st and 2nd under throttle :D . Still not as fun as the 7 but it's a start.
90% of the problem was injectors blocked. It runs well now but I still want to get 4 injectors serviced, new fuel hoses, replace the pump filters and put a inline filter before the pump.
Even with it running on four it still hesitated and popped when you flicked the throttle had a look over found the vac line to the fuel pressure reg wasn't hooked up, it had a line on it but it was tucked away with the rest of the hoses just not connected.
Now looking at oil leaks and found a rocker cover gasket leak no biggie will check the valves while Im at it.
The concerning leak is coming from the output shaft/ clutch push rod/ water pump area after doing some reading looked like I may need to drop the motor a split the case to to replace the seal :( . But on the plus side I will give it some new rings and if i can find a gen 2 crank it may get that aswell. Problem is I pulled the covers gave it a good wash and dry put it back together and run it for 10 mins, clutch in and out, in and out of gear and nothing not a drop. Will do a quick run tomorrow up the road and see what happens :confused:
you sure its not chain lube
Don't be like that , Pete sorted most of it.Quote:
Originally Posted by BANDITROD
lol
Was heaps of crude in the behind the sprocket and around the clutch push rod. At first before I pulled the covers I thought it was the fuel I had been spraying all over running down mixing with the crap but it smells like engine oil. I will know tomorrow
bwahahahahahahhah!Quote:
Originally Posted by Redmohawk
https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.n...81913589_n.jpg
38
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.n...49520074_n.jpg
33
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.n...80607029_n.jpg
Stock
https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.n...85113634_n.jpg
fully sick lowered
Lowered the back of the bus 50mm today once the suspension sag is set as I want and with me on it should sit pretty close to what I want at the back. I will probably get the adjustable links a little later on if I need to get any finer adjustment.
Will lower the front 50mm over the weekend and should be sweet
I am lowering my forks internally I made up 2x 50mm and 2x 70mm spacers to install.
Question is 70mm lower front on a other wise stock busa to low?
I have reassembled the forks and it looks low.
Will I have ground clearance (sump headers) or bottom the forks out hard with wheelies. I have upped the pre load and will run a heavier fork oil with full comp dampening.
Should I just stick to 50mm??
Free length of the chrome stock is 120mm with the spacer in it is 50mm.
dodgy pic's I know but
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.n...97271834_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.n...71879578_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.n...66224911_n.jpg
That's not enough! If you hit a bump it will spit you off or produce a tank slapper and then spit you off. Use a tie down strap!
Why is a strap better than internally lowering them? Not having a shot just haven't seen a reason it is better, most things say that lowering internal is the better option.
As I have done now I still have a percentage of travel in the suspension to absorb bump's and assist with brakeing
I would think that internally lowering would be better as Yella said due to the fact that you actually have actual working suspension, where as if you strap it down the springs are constantly compressed and you have very hard suspension.
That said Yella I'd be checking if 50mm travel is enough. i'd rather start with 70mm of travel and keep an eye on it. You can always lower down more later on.
id say it would be closer to 30mm travel as it wont go all the way down to the bottom of the fork
I think Mega ment use a strap on stock length to increase travel, I think he ment "not enough travel left in the forks" as you have it set currently. Me I have no idea,but I'm sure you'll work it out. Plenty seem to be running ok that low.Quote:
Originally Posted by Yella
The drag guys in the UK all use straps, especially on the road legal bikes. It allows adjustment, if you do bottom out , you can give it a bit less strap and a bit more fork.
As you may have read earlier Im lowering the forks with spacers. Armed with a small about of info and enough tools to be dangerous I went to the shed. Took some pic's while doing the job.
Attachment 7035
Free length
Attachment 7036
Action shot :)
Attachment 7037
Cartridge out the work bench/ milk crate
Attachment 7038
end bit off
Attachment 7039
Knocked up a quick spring compressor. rough but works :)
Attachment 7040
Lower spacer on, cutting upper
Attachment 7041
Shorter
Attachment 7042
Not the same
Attachment 7043
Need better pic's but you get the idea.
It has 85mm ground clearance at the lowest point static sag, once my fat butt is on it, Im not sure but probably closer to 60mm. Thinking I will pull them apart again and swap the 70mm spacers for 50mm and put the standard top length spacers in to up the preload. To give it a bit more travel and clearance just to be on the safe side then if I need it lower I can drop the fork through a little. Also looking at running ATF at the stock level :).
fark yeah/ now its down ,good work Ian.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.n...36213536_o.jpg
Still need to lower the rear some more and set the sag
https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.n...19065914_o.jpg
Took it for a quick run, a couple of hardish starts and hard breaking and everthing seemed to be OK. Will take it to work on the weekend and try a couple of hard starts/ wheelies and see what hits :)
looking good mate and yeah the rear def needs to drop a bit have you had someone help you check how much it drops while you are sitting on it
Yep with the additional preload in the forks, comp set at max and the heavier fork oil with me on it I still have over 70mm before the headers hit the ground. So once I drop the back a little more still should have room.
shit hot well done mate
thinking about bones almost 12 oclock launch at heathcoate ,you should be ablle to hold the front down for a few hard starts ,as your regearing it it should get most of its torque down in 3rd and 4th
looking good yella , just needs a bright paint job stupid wide back wheel and one disk removed from the front and your ready for a centrefold of superstreetbike :p
It will be off to Pav for a splash of Yellow soon enough :)
Good stuff mate well done
When you lower the rear of the bike, increase the compression damping and preload so that the back sits down on launch, but only moves about 1/2" . This will allow the tyre to bite without breaking away and will reduce wheelies. I did it with Z650 shocks fitted with alloy spacers and valve springs fitted by removing the top of the shocks, sliding over the damper rod and refitting the shock tops. Not sure you can do this with asingle shock though.
Think I know what you mean, I will have a look at the options when I get home today
Lowered the back more today
https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.n...39266948_o.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.n...57476298_o.jpg
thats looking better mate good job
Had a quick test pretty happy all seem good. The kid on the pushy up the road got a shock. I rolled to a stop casue him and his mates had spread out over the road as they got out the way he yelled out "dump it I dare ya" being not one to shy away from a random request quick rev and out with the clutch. At this height with a cold tyre it leaves a line about 20m long up the road. Dunno who was more shocked him or me. This should be fun out on the track
That's lookin a lot more like a drag bike now.
like it Yella coming along real nice