Yella's Drag Busa

[Yella]

Think I have found what Im going to do
http://www.suzukihayabusa.org/forum/...topic=135724.0

Looks easy enough

[Yella]

Bits have started arriving. Cheap Ebay cover



Fitted



Cut the back out of the busted headlight, saving weight

[Snake_Doctor]

Thought this thread was about Yella's Busa not Another pick on Pete post fest!!!

[rock hard]

Hey Yella, looking good mate i like the fork shortening but fuck me alloy fork cartridges and stillsons rough bastards just use a heat gun and a little finnese ...youll need to adjust the damping comp and rebound fairly hard because when the wheel comes down from a start wheelie it will bottom out easily...so looking forward to this big bugger run and race

[Yella]

Seem to have got Pete's pic taking skills but anyway,


Thinking leaving the black black and swapping the blue for yellow.

If the postie doesn't start delivering the parts I want he will get a flogging soon.

Next step is to lower it 50mm but waiting fo rthe rear links so I can make sure it sits how I want

[BANDITROD]

cool looking good mate

[RevHead]

that blue on the tank is pretty close

[Yella]

So the injector arrived today from Pete. 42 degree's outside fuck knows inside the shed but I have parts so in I go .
New injector in start it up rev's have picked up so re-adjust seems to be running a little rough but better check the exhaust temp all seem to be about the same so slap the other bits on for a quick test but as soon as I try and load it up to get out the drive it starts to miss. WTF.Head out anyway and it gets worse when you open it up under load so back in and recheck exhaust temps all pretty close number 1 is down a little put the injector wire and no real change. Pull the others noticeable drop.
Thinking it can’t be the injector its been replaced must be ignition I started checking plugs, coils etc finally got back to the injector ended swapping it with number 2 and the fault moved WTF.
Pulled the injector rail for number 1 and spun it so I could run the bike and watch the injector’s spray into a bottle. Old injector half a dribble, good injector from number 2 seemed better, new injector dribble. Some where in doing this I managed to pull the rail apart and spray my crutch with 500ml of petrol needless to say was not and still isn’t fun.
Anyway I got the shits and pulled the screen from the end of the original injector ( it didn’t want to come out but I made it ) put the injector in and fired it up sweet no when you pull the injector wires rpm drops. Now to wait till tomorrow to give it a test up the road see how it goes.
Looks like I'm going to have to clean the fuel system, put an inline filter before the pump and chase up another injector or get these serviced.
Also found a oil leak from the rocker cover area by the looks of it and the sump is covered in crap possibly just the fuel running down and mixing with crude and running off but looks terrible at the moment so will need to sort that aswell

[RevHead]

this is why i pulled it ive got five coil packs here and another 4 injectors,it cost me so bloody much and whenever i changed things out ,it never got any better ,if you want the coil packs and all the injectors let me know as there around $300 for the bits i paid for.the last 4 injectors ive got here turned up a week after you picked up the busa.

[Yella]

Busa miss fire sorted. It Rev's clean and picks up 1st and 2nd under throttle . Still not as fun as the 7 but it's a start.
90% of the problem was injectors blocked. It runs well now but I still want to get 4 injectors serviced, new fuel hoses, replace the pump filters and put a inline filter before the pump.
Even with it running on four it still hesitated and popped when you flicked the throttle had a look over found the vac line to the fuel pressure reg wasn't hooked up, it had a line on it but it was tucked away with the rest of the hoses just not connected.

Now looking at oil leaks and found a rocker cover gasket leak no biggie will check the valves while Im at it.
The concerning leak is coming from the output shaft/ clutch push rod/ water pump area after doing some reading looked like I may need to drop the motor a split the case to to replace the seal . But on the plus side I will give it some new rings and if i can find a gen 2 crank it may get that aswell. Problem is I pulled the covers gave it a good wash and dry put it back together and run it for 10 mins, clutch in and out, in and out of gear and nothing not a drop. Will do a quick run tomorrow up the road and see what happens

[BANDITROD]

you sure its not chain lube

[Redmohawk]

you sure its not anal lube

Don't be like that , Pete sorted most of it.

[BANDITROD]

lol

[Yella]

Was heaps of crude in the behind the sprocket and around the clutch push rod. At first before I pulled the covers I thought it was the fuel I had been spraying all over running down mixing with the crap but it smells like engine oil. I will know tomorrow

[RevHead]

Don't be like that , Pete sorted most of it.

bwahahahahahahhah!

[Yella]

38


33


Stock


fully sick lowered

Lowered the back of the bus 50mm today once the suspension sag is set as I want and with me on it should sit pretty close to what I want at the back. I will probably get the adjustable links a little later on if I need to get any finer adjustment.

Will lower the front 50mm over the weekend and should be sweet

[Yella]

I am lowering my forks internally I made up 2x 50mm and 2x 70mm spacers to install.
Question is 70mm lower front on a other wise stock busa to low?
I have reassembled the forks and it looks low.
Will I have ground clearance (sump headers) or bottom the forks out hard with wheelies. I have upped the pre load and will run a heavier fork oil with full comp dampening.
Should I just stick to 50mm??
Free length of the chrome stock is 120mm with the spacer in it is 50mm.

dodgy pic's I know but

[megawatt]

That's not enough! If you hit a bump it will spit you off or produce a tank slapper and then spit you off. Use a tie down strap!

[Yella]

Why is a strap better than internally lowering them? Not having a shot just haven't seen a reason it is better, most things say that lowering internal is the better option.
As I have done now I still have a percentage of travel in the suspension to absorb bump's and assist with brakeing

[wackyrider]

I would think that internally lowering would be better as Yella said due to the fact that you actually have actual working suspension, where as if you strap it down the springs are constantly compressed and you have very hard suspension.

That said Yella I'd be checking if 50mm travel is enough. i'd rather start with 70mm of travel and keep an eye on it. You can always lower down more later on.