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slingy88
30-03-2012, 02:21 PM
received the trigger wheel and vr sensor from triggerwheels.com now gotta save some coin for microsquirt ecu
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4435.jpg
opened up the right cover its pretty much fucked up in there, one of bolts beds is missing, gonna fugure out how to repair it
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4437.jpg
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4439.jpg
Why not just use the suzuki VR sensor? Works great on mine :)
thanks heaps Morry, just tryin to match ur bull frog mate! slingy i thought that the stock sensor is hall thats why, now ive seen the light and gunna use the relocated stock one, btw thanks for the hint on triggerwheels.com
ps slingy u said u used microsquirt/msii combo, could u tell us more about it? do u control boost with it, what mods, etc?
slingy88
31-03-2012, 09:05 PM
thanks heaps Morry, just tryin to match ur bull frog mate! slingy i thought that the stock sensor is hall thats why, now ive seen the light and gunna use the relocated stock one, btw thanks for the hint on triggerwheels.com
ps slingy u said u used microsquirt/msii combo, could u tell us more about it? do u control boost with it, what mods, etc?
Yes mate no worrys,
I'm running the origional version of Microsquirt with the inbuilt ignition drivers. The Current version requires external drivers or coils with inbuilt drivers, so may be a little different.
I use the same trigger wheel as you mounted to the turned down centre of the OEM crank trigger.
http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/ss11/slingy88/750 slingshot/P1000845800x600.jpg
It seems best to set this so the leading edge of tooth 9 past the missing tooth is TDC. This then means the MS see's the reference of the missing tooth and then can start calculating your advance as it then nows its got 90 deg's untill TDC to work with. Plus its still has 18 teeth without seeing the missing tooth untill the second tach event.
This then uses the stock VR sensor wired in to the VR input of the MS with no other mods. Easy!
Coolant is just a stock GM coolant (Trojan Brand) sensor bought through Supercheap.This was just drilled and tapped into one of the cam end bungs.
[img]http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/ss11/slingy88/750 slingshot/P1010038800x600.jpg[img/]
Also in this picture you can see the TPS sensor, this was just wired in as per the MS manual.
TB's are 34mm GPZ1100, these are the same spacing as the GSXR so went straight in with no racking changes.
Plenum is GPZ750 turbo complete with its Air temp sensor. This is an open element type as these are the only ones that respond quick enough to air temp changes to be of any use. Again GM do a suitabley cheap one which again can be be bought through Trojan if required.
MAP sensor is a 3 bar GM copy from the bay.
Injectors are 460cc high impedance Bosch type Mazda RX7 and went straight into the GPZ TB's. Had to make a fuel rail and couldnt find the extrusion anywhere in OZ so had to buy it in from the states.
FPR is SARD. Great for bikes as fully adjustable and very small in size and pretty cheap . I think my pump is a pierburg one as you have to find one that can pump the max flow of your injectors ( in my case 4 X 460 = 1840cc's a minute) at the right pressure as in our case we are turbocharging we are looking at the average base pressure of 43psi plus the rising rate change of the boost your running which in my case i wanted to allow for a max of 25psi boost so thats about 68 psi all up fuel pressure that may be required. and the pierburg was one of the few that was actually rated to flow that kind of fuel at that kind of pressure.
Coils. Stock are fine but mine were a bit wankered so i am running ford 4 post wasted spark coils with 8mm silicone leads driven straight from the MS.
[img]http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/ss11/slingy88/750 slingshot/P1000840800x600.jpg[img/]
Had to make a vacuum manifold out of some scrap alloy tube and welding tips to smooth out MAP signal. Also placed a small cheap plastic fuel filter in the line to the MAP sensor to also help with smoothing the signal.
[img]http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/ss11/slingy88/750 slingshot/08012011014.jpg[img/]
I think thats about it for the install really, but feel free to ask anything you want
slingy88
31-03-2012, 09:28 PM
thanks heaps Morry, just tryin to match ur bull frog mate! slingy i thought that the stock sensor is hall thats why, now ive seen the light and gunna use the relocated stock one, btw thanks for the hint on triggerwheels.com<BR>ps slingy u said u used microsquirt/msii combo, could u tell us more about it? do u control boost with it, what mods, etc?
Yes mate no worrys, I'm running the origional version of Microsquirt with the inbuilt ignition drivers. The Current version requires external drivers or coils with inbuilt drivers, so may be a little different.I use the same trigger wheel as you mounted to the turned down centre of the OEM crank trigger.
http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/ss11/slingy88/750 slingshot/P1000845800x600.jpg
It seems best to set this so the leading edge of tooth 9 past the missing tooth is TDC. This then means the MS see's the reference of the missing tooth and then can start calculating your advance as it then nows its got 90 deg's untill TDC to work with. Plus its still has 18 teeth without seeing the missing tooth untill the second tach event.This then uses the stock VR sensor wired in to the VR input of the MS with no other mods. Easy!
Coolant is just a stock GM coolant (Trojan Brand) sensor bought through Supercheap.This was just drilled and tapped into one of the cam end bungs.
http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/ss11/slingy88/750 slingshot/P1010038800x600.jpg
Also in this picture you can see the TPS sensor, this was just wired in as per the MS manual.
TB's are 34mm GPZ1100, these are the same spacing as the GSXR so went straight in with no racking changes.Plenum is GPZ750 turbo complete with its Air temp sensor. This is an open element type as these are the only ones that respond quick enough to air temp changes to be of any use. Again GM do a suitabley cheap one which again can be be bought through Trojan if required.
MAP sensor is a 3 bar GM copy from the bay.
Injectors are 460cc high impedance Bosch type Mazda RX7 and went straight into the GPZ TB's. Had to make a fuel rail and couldnt find the extrusion anywhere in OZ so had to buy it in from the states.
FPR is SARD. Great for bikes as fully adjustable and very small in size and pretty cheap . I think my pump is a pierburg one as you have to find one that can pump the max flow of your injectors ( in my case 4 X 460 = 1840cc's a minute) at the right pressure as in our case we are turbocharging we are looking at the average base pressure of 43psi plus the rising rate change of the boost your running which in my case i wanted to allow for a max of 25psi boost so thats about 68 psi all up fuel pressure that may be required. and the pierburg was one of the few that was actually rated to flow that kind of fuel at that kind of pressure.
Coils. Stock are fine but mine were a bit wankered so i am running ford 4 post wasted spark coils with 8mm silicone leads driven straight from the MS.
http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/ss11/slingy88/750 slingshot/P1000840800x600.jpg
Had to make a vacuum manifold out of some scrap alloy tube and welding tips to smooth out MAP signal. Also placed a small cheap plastic fuel filter in the line to the MAP sensor to also help with smoothing the signal.
http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/ss11/slingy88/750 slingshot/08012011014.jpg
I think thats about it for the install really, but feel free to ask anything you want
awesome slingy thanks heaps mate! so do u control boost with ms or wat? wats ur warm up set up then?
also the crank sensor looks as if its stayed on its initial place, is it so? cos 36-1 wheel is a tad bigger
do u tume via blu tooth? i bought a 8" tablet in hope to use it for a dash board
im gunna use a walbro pump and 48lb venom injectors borrowed from my other projects, as well as fpr and gm sensors
rear mount holes r way to large for bolts - the upper 1 is 11mm for a m10 bolt and the bottom 1 is 13mm for a m12 bolt, thats why i made fatter studs - 11 &13 mm with original m10x1.25 and m12x1.25 threads
but when i tried to insert the upper mount stud, it didnt go in all the way, so i took a closer look and understood, that beautifully bent upper mount plates aint supposed to be bent
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4430.jpg
so i unbent em with a hammer and here we go!
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4447.jpg
see an ally spacer? just savin on weight by each gram lol
the necks welded to the upper rails so im back to where i was 4 weeks ago... but further steps r gunna be faster this time cos now i know how haha!
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4445.jpg
checkin the flat for engine
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4446.jpg
everythin's adjusted and levelled just cant wait for monday! fuckin hate weekends and holidays!
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4448.jpg
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4449.jpg
slingy88
01-04-2012, 08:50 AM
awesome slingy thanks heaps mate! so do u control boost with ms or wat? wats ur warm up set up then?
also the crank sensor looks as if its stayed on its initial place, is it so? cos 36-1 wheel is a tad bigger
do u tume via blu tooth? i bought a 8" tablet in hope to use it for a dash board
im gunna use a walbro pump and 48lb venom injectors borrowed from my other projects, as well as fpr and gm sensors
No problems mate, anything to help another Squirter into life lol.
Crank sensor is completely stock, after assembly of the 36-1 wheel i put the whole thing back in the lathe turned down untill it fitted and spun inside stock VR sensor with about .4mm clearance.
If it dosnt come with it, upload the MS firmware with MS2 Extra Code This is awesome and gives heaps of extra features, including boost control, but i havent looked into that yet.
Plus it gives the best tuning feature of being able to run Alpha-N (tps based Fueling) but with a Multiply Map function. So normally TPS based fueling is no good for turbo as for a given throttle possition , you may or may not have boost according to engine load etc, so what this does is use the MAP reading as a multiplyer so the setting in the table is a constant but this is then multiplied by whatever the manifold pressure is either vaccum or boost to ebd up with the correct fueling. Very clever stuff :D
I just tune with laptop in rucksack while running Tunerstudio's VE Anylize live which is a realtime Table tuner, using the input from the Wide band O2 sensor to tune.
Warm up is just a simple 2D table in Tunerstudio that adds extra fuel untill a predertimed temp is reached then it cuts out, so no extra cold start injectors needed or anything.
thanks again mate! so u dont use an iac valve? askin that coz with microsquirt u have to choose between iac valve control and boost control - thats wat Mat Cramer told me. well i guess that the iac valve is needed only when temperature below zero celcium? do u still have choke installed if it ever had been like on busas?
slingy88
01-04-2012, 06:24 PM
thanks again mate! so u dont use an iac valve? askin that coz with microsquirt u have to choose between iac valve control and boost control - thats wat Mat Cramer told me. well i guess that the iac valve is needed only when temperature below zero celcium? do u still have choke installed if it ever had been like on busas?
No IAC valve or choke needed. My TB's (GPZ1100) have a Fast idle lever which just uses a small cam to open butterfly slightly, so i start on this and once its warmed up for a couple of minutes, knock it off back to normal throttle stop. But be honest it would nearly run straight up without any additional revs just be a little low when cold and slowly rise as it warms up.
Mat might be right as i think microsquirt has a limited number of outputs compared to a full Megasquirt ecu so you probably have to choose wisely which ones you want to use for what function.
i see but i dont have such a lever on my 99 srad 750 tbs, just an adjusting screw with cable that limits a full closing of butterlies, hopefully just warm up inrichments will be enough for a cold start up?
If you use MS2/Extra code, you can use the PWM idle output for boost
control - thats wat he letterally said
slingy88
02-04-2012, 05:48 AM
i see but i dont have such a lever on my 99 srad 750 tbs, just an adjusting screw with cable that limits a full closing of butterlies, hopefully just warm up inrichments will be enough for a cold start up?
If you use MS2/Extra code, you can use the PWM idle output for boost
control - thats wat he letterally said
Shouldnt be a problem. I know of 3 bikes using such TB's and havnt heard of any warm up issues.
The latest version of the code has a designated boost control menu but it looks fairly similar to the PWM control as well. Either would probably do the job.
hopefully it won't i hate hanging around shit better of keepin all simple and noice lol
still dont understand how u managed to keep the vr sensor on its original (seemingly) spot, cos the 36-1 wheel is bigger
a 108mm outlet and 88mm inlet stacks
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4458.jpg
a car injector with 14mm o-ring goes into the tb noice and easy - but it doesnt into the stock fuel rail bung
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4456.jpg
1 stock and 2 +2mm and 1 +14mm spacers and a new tb's rake
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4460.jpg
tomorrow a +18mm uber long screw is gotta be made
voila, this time made it just for 2 days /rather evenings
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4461.jpg
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4462.jpg
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4463.jpg
i like the frame mate looking good
slingy88
05-04-2012, 09:25 PM
hopefully it won't i hate hanging around shit better of keepin all simple and noice lol
still dont understand how u managed to keep the vr sensor on its original (seemingly) spot, cos the 36-1 wheel is bigger
What size trigger wheel did you get? I got the 51mm diam one and like i said, only had to turn the overall diam down a smidge to get it in with stock VR position.
BANDITROD
05-04-2012, 10:09 PM
holy fuck surt thats starting to take shape well i will keep an eye on this
i like the frame mate looking good
thanks Albi!
What size trigger wheel did you get? I got the 51mm diam one and like i said, only had to turn the overall diam down a smidge to get it in with stock VR position.
ahh so! mine is 64mm thats why! cheers mate! 88
holy fuck surt thats starting to take shape well i will keep an eye on this
thanks banditrod yup the hell spawns anti matter theres gonna be a big boom haha
the ic has arrived bloody bulky and heavy - 5.8kg lets see wat it will weigh after mods
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4467.jpg
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4466.jpg
taken 1.5 hr to slice it - so thick r the walls
had to cut the core to fit in the frame 3 times
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4469.jpg
always wanted to see how the bars r made, thought they r thin walled, no fuckin way - 5mm thick! also have no idea how the fins r fixed to the plates, obviously by dot welding, but the work looks just to labourious, i had to use jigsaw to separate the finned parts - they hold together tight as!
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4470.jpg
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4471.jpg
u could break ur leg with the cast tank if dropped on it
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4472.jpg
tryin it on
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4473.jpg
pay no heed to the piping direction or shape
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4474.jpg
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4475.jpg
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4476.jpg
BANDITROD
06-04-2012, 07:05 AM
fuck thats awesome
slingy88
06-04-2012, 07:10 AM
WOW, this is looking bloody great Surt! Love it.
You should get next to no pressure drop with that intercooler as you've chosen to be able to have the end tanks on the long edge like that.
Rough rule of thumb is that the cross sectional area of all the passage ways through the core needs to at least equal or be greater than the cross sectional area of the up pipes going in and out of the intercooler to minimise pressure drop. A quick way to work this out is (core length X core width / 2) . The divide by 2 bit is because roughly half the core is passage ways and half is the blanking plates inbetween. Then obviously just your 2pieR ( sorry cant be arsed to find the correct pie (3.142) symbol ) to work out cross section of your pipework.
Probbably telling you to suck eggs but might be interesting to others.
Just trying to make the point as well that ANY intercooler is NOT better than no Intercooler as excessive pressure drop means the turbo has to work harder to make more boost to compensate which means more heat in the compressed air which the small intercooler probably couldnt pull out so back to same charge temp at motor as with out intercooler but with turbo working harder and a more complicated system.
Yours on the other hand should be bloody good.
Keep the post coming mate, luvin it all.
thanks mates! yup just doing how Corky Bell the Great and Terrible taught us lol
ozzy1100
06-04-2012, 01:31 PM
fuck i love my copy of corky bell's max boost .............. so much gold in one book
slingy88
06-04-2012, 09:33 PM
fuck i love my copy of corky bell's max boost .............. so much gold in one book
Indeed, a great book for anyone looking to go down the turbo path :D
But lesson learnt...................NEVER lend it to ANYONE, as chances are you'll never see it, or the the borrower agian!!!!!
Bastard LOL.
ozzy1100
06-04-2012, 10:28 PM
Indeed, a great book for anyone looking to go down the turbo path :D
But lesson learnt...................NEVER lend it to ANYONE, as chances are you'll never see it, or the the borrower agian!!!!!
Bastard LOL.
fuck me yr jokeing arnt u how funny is that, it is what happened to my 1st copy and it cost me near $80
lucky i found it in uk for under $40 to my door but what i couldnt get back was the hrs of high lighting, notes and cross reff i put into it ........
K6Thou
06-04-2012, 10:48 PM
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4476.jpg
Just out of curiosity mate are the frame tubes butt welded ??? How is the joint going to hold up ? strength wise ??
nup mate they r welded on inserts as i always do, there r gonna be a few bracings as well
slingy i can pm u the max boost's pdf copy if u want it
K6Thou
07-04-2012, 02:10 AM
Good stuff mate !!!!
slingy88
07-04-2012, 07:01 AM
nup mate they r welded on inserts as i always do, there r gonna be a few bracings as well
slingy i can pm u the max boost's pdf copy if u want it
That would be mucho appreciated Surt cheers ;)
Redmohawk
07-04-2012, 09:49 AM
http://www.b15u.com/general-guides-documents-downloads/4107-corky-bells-maximum-boost.html
helliluya to the Indjun god! feel free to use his link mate and have ur own free copy! i guess i have had mine from 1 of those places
but of coz i can pm u mine slingy!
Redmohawk
07-04-2012, 06:29 PM
here all week, try the beef !
slingy88
07-04-2012, 06:59 PM
http://www.b15u.com/general-guides-documents-downloads/4107-corky-bells-maximum-boost.html
Done :D
I'll print this bad boy at work me thinks.
thanks Adam some day i will
Redmohawk
08-04-2012, 10:04 AM
When your ready give me some notice and I'll knock off a beast of two, we'll invite the mongrels and have a big piss up. I might even get motivated and pickup a 1000 pallets n knock up a wall of death for a real shin dig. You know what they say Build it and they will come.
sounds like pet sematary sounds like helluva fun mate make sure zombies would come to! bahaha!
found a free hour to draw an image of the ride that swarming in my head
all measurements r taken and all parts r depicted scaled 1:10
e.g. found out that the wheel base is gotta be 1735mm +-10 depending on chain, also i gunna have lots of space for turbo thats bloody good to know
well i will compare the data with end result
there gunna be a really evil mask but me thinks i'll set up the headlights she had come with and a mask will be created later
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4478.jpg
the seat subbie side panels were made about a month ago for the old frame so the seat i a tad long - the tank was supposed to go 100mm into the subbie, now it won't, ending where the rear bracing is
perhaps i'll shink it somehow haha
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4477.jpg
trigger wheels modded, an ally hub made just need to sort it out where to jam in the vr sensor? me thinks on the pressure sensor where else? will the vr sensor work there considerin the oil?
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4484.jpg
another question probably to slingy, the fixin pin on the crank is about 90 before the tdc right? - marked on the piccie
so if i relocate the vr sensor, how crucial the angle, can't it be adjusting later by correcting the retard?
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4483.jpg
Redmohawk
10-04-2012, 05:53 AM
oil shouldn't bother the vr sensor, its just a coil of wire around some steel with a magnet. I have a few over here that are probably alot smaller if your interested in something that might be easyer to fit, post up the dimentions of yours and I'll scratch through a box of bits and see if I have something a little slimmer.
thanks mate! not the sensor but its mount...
actually i meant the density of oil between the wheel and sensor can affect it?
rock hard
10-04-2012, 09:04 AM
Surt, stop fucking around pack all your bikes in a sea container..and Fuckin move to Oz..shit man there are a shit load of people on here that will adopt you.I even named my pet dingo surt.cause he's always out in the shed rootin around .. .think of the postage you will save!!! ha ha mate what i meant to say was Hades is lookin GOOD
slingy88
10-04-2012, 09:41 AM
Yeah, its not crucial as it can all be allowed for in the software.
But.... what i'd do is, with the crank at TDC N#1, fit your VR where ever around the trigger that it fits, then clock the trigger wheel so that tooth 9 after the missing tooth is on the VR sensor. This will make setup really easy, and give the right sequence fot the ecu, ie, it gets the reset of the missing tooth then 90 deg later it knows its got TDCN#1 happening, then 18teeth or 180 deg after that, TDCN#2 happens then the missing tooth reset again.
It dosnt have to happen this way bur its the easiest to setup the software for and seems to give the most reliable opperation.
Why not weld a boss into the cover to take the VR sensor that you origionally bought with the trigger wheel? or sell that trigger wheel and get a 51mm one so you can just mount the sensor stock like mine?
What ever i'm sure you'll come up with a good solution mate. Keep it coming ;)
Surt, stop fucking around pack all your bikes in a sea container..and Fuckin move to Oz..shit man there are a shit load of people on here that will adopt you.I even named my pet dingo surt.cause he's always out in the shed rootin around .. .think of the postage you will save!!! ha ha mate what i meant to say was Hades is lookin GOOD
bahahaha! u named a dog after me Morry! so its up to u to adopt me haha nah seriously i want her pics in the shed and portrait too! thanks heaps for kind words Morry! my principal container is my head swollen with ideas
Yeah, its not crucial as it can all be allowed for in the software.
But.... what i'd do is, with the crank at TDC N#1, fit your VR where ever around the trigger that it fits, then clock the trigger wheel so that tooth 9 after the missing tooth is on the VR sensor. This will make setup really easy, and give the right sequence fot the ecu, ie, it gets the reset of the missing tooth then 90 deg later it knows its got TDCN#1 happening, then 18teeth or 180 deg after that, TDCN#2 happens then the missing tooth reset again.
It dosnt have to happen this way bur its the easiest to setup the software for and seems to give the most reliable opperation.
Why not weld a boss into the cover to take the VR sensor that you origionally bought with the trigger wheel? or sell that trigger wheel and get a 51mm one so you can just mount the sensor stock like mine?
What ever i'm sure you'll come up with a good solution mate. Keep it coming ;)
thanks heaps slingy thats how i thought, should renew my half forgotten knowledge on squirtin. 64mm was the smallest wheel on there so i thought its the same 1 u bought either
if i put MY vr sensor through the cover, how could i adjust the gap and location, well i'll try to relocate the bandits vr sensor down and see whats happened, then i can always order 51mm wheel at me work - a better 1 than triggerwheels.com's but hardly any cheaper
Redmohawk
10-04-2012, 06:41 PM
Oil wont bother the output, unless its full of bearing steel lol
rock hard
10-04-2012, 07:00 PM
bahahaha! u named a dog after me Morry! so its up to u to adopt me haha nah seriously i want her pics in the shed and portrait too! thanks heaps for kind words Morry! my principal container is my head swollen with ideas
Here he is...Surt, he is awesome at catching a few of the local rats Too!!!
http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/rr249/rockhard_photos/ovest%2008/579448-dingo-wallaby-sandon-beach.jpg
ahh hes caught a sea wallaby!
rock hard
11-04-2012, 06:04 PM
Yeah they are feisty little fuckers
still fappin over bracings and mounts little by little but yet goin on
the voice in my head said to make 3 pairs bracings not 2 and the front one from od34x3 piping while others from od34x1.5 stainless piping
yup im all ears cos he knows better bahaha!
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4492.jpg
assembled tb's still waiting for the boot flanges to be machined
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4490.jpg
received the microsquirt with 3bar map sensor, boost control valve and connectors
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4491.jpg
followed the motto on the t'shirt and megasquirted my mind first with latest code now it feels real good hahaha
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4497.jpg
slingy88
18-04-2012, 06:26 PM
OOOOOHHH!!! Me like that there Fancy Dan Shirt you be wear'in. :cool:
who the fuck is fancy dan slingy? check up ur in box mate i have a better copy of max boost for ya, a true ebook, not fuckin scans, just 5mbjust need u mail
any one interested feel free to pm me to
K6Thou
19-04-2012, 06:49 PM
That subframe is horn mate, looking good !
thanks heaps mate, sorted out how to make it shorter and more horny haha
after waiting for 3 or 4 weeks for the flanges to be milled i took em back and cut of the odds with the angel grinder and smoothed with files
as you can see the oem boots r of bloody centers thats why i made bigger holes in mine
gunna port the fuckn inlets to match the boot holes
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4500.jpg
tbs installed time to start fabbin the plenum... actually ive already made a few templates
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4498.jpg
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4499.jpg
finished with bracings and engine mounts - at looong last, more complex work than fitting the main tubes
main tubes have just 6 merges and 8 bracings have 16 merges respectively
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4501.jpg
and heres a collection of templates, gunna keep em for the frames to come
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4502.jpg
the plenum to be is started with
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4503.jpg
BANDITROD
26-04-2012, 08:54 AM
good stuff you crazy russian fucker
thanks rod proud to be called a psycho nutter not normal etc however i may be more an aussie than most of yas lucky bastards
aussie by heart just was awaken from dream time in the wrong place
if i break my neck before makin it to Oz i'll still be roamin the nullarbor with Mad Max and Bon Scott eternally makin nitro for my mad bikes from my own piss bwahahaha!
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4528Cropped.jpg
alrighty, the bracings and engine mounts been welded to the frame today, so the frame is almost finished, a few triangles r to be welded to here and there and a side stand mounts
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4515.jpg
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4516.jpg
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4517.jpg
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4518.jpg
continued with the plenum right out
yup it can be removed out of the frame no worries
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4519.jpg
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4520.jpg
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4521.jpg
yesterday received the turbine from seppos and fetched it to me work today
never realised its so huge hahaha i cant stop laughing staring at it
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4506.jpg
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4507.jpg
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4508.jpg
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4509.jpg
comparing to mhi 3 and ihi 55, i luv its compressor housing but will the bandit?
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4513.jpg
luv the turbine housing as well
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4514.jpg
sorting out the turbine position, smth like that
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4522.jpg
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4524.jpg
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4525.jpg
ps sick and tired shitless to upload that many pics to the bucket but knowin yas luv porn... enjoy!
forgotten to show off with 2mm thick custom copper washers for the engine mounting studs hehe /to be annealed/
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4505.jpg
BANDITROD
27-04-2012, 12:25 PM
fuck thats cool
slingy88
27-04-2012, 05:16 PM
fuck thats cool
What he said ;)
kewl mates real happy yas like my squirts bahaha!
anyway
a trolley bike now
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4542.jpg
cut out the kick stand mount from the stock frame not to re invent the wheel
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4544.jpg
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4545.jpg
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4546.jpg
BANDITROD
06-05-2012, 12:33 PM
fuck thats looking cool i hope you have all the measurements for that frame written down
thanks heaps mate yup i have 'em, feel free to ask if u need ones rod altho its a voice in my head that told me what to do and how bahaha
BANDITROD
06-05-2012, 07:06 PM
hahaha good stuff surt and if i need em ill let you know
Its always a pleasure seeing your work surt.
Good stuff mate ! :cool:
pleased to hear that Col!
aint been really bludgerin these days, the frame is gonna be finally finished soon as
just a few gusset plates (d'u call em so?) and the seat subbie mounts r to be welded on
btw, the subbie's shortened for 150mm in a smart arse way bahaha
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4547.jpg
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4550.jpg
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4551.jpg
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4552.jpg
BANDITROD
16-05-2012, 09:32 AM
fuck that looks cool surt
Gix11
16-05-2012, 12:02 PM
What Rod said - That's one trick frame and subby combo!
yeah thanks mates, its obvious now that the mask must be of the similar design just kinda lack of ideas yet
btw thats how the subbie was shortened
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4558.jpg
not everythings made but what done is done
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4557.jpg
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4559.jpg
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4560.jpg
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4561.jpg
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4562.jpg
time to try on the tank mock up
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4563.jpg
lookin to high to me so already cut about 25-30mm off
this is the way we build our planes bahaha
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4564.jpg
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4565.jpg
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4566.jpg
Gix11
17-05-2012, 11:27 AM
That seat may be a bit wide hey Surt?
kev@vcm
17-05-2012, 11:33 AM
That seat may be a bit wide hey Surt?
hey Si can you answer your emails dude i know ya is busy as hell buddy thanks , sorry for the thread hijack surt
no worries i think i'll make another 1 later haha
UK_Bitsa_Biker
25-05-2012, 06:08 AM
hey bud loving this build! waiting for the next update.............
my personal preference would of been a tubular subbie just to match the awesome frame! but still gonna look fucking cool.........
wat thickness plate did you use to fill in the subframe holes?
RevHead
25-05-2012, 08:32 AM
Surt ,the bike is looking great ,love the subframe ,
K6Thou
23-06-2012, 11:32 PM
Whats going on with the build brother ???? been a while...
http://youtu.be/hS8yDlAUzRA
thanks bros been at the gates of hell and wasn't permitted to enter before i finish my projects therefore im back to work
1st day at work
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/Surt_Rafrrirr/DSCF4578.jpg
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