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  1. #1
    Bloke with a smaller stick
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    k series GSXR front end into early GSXR

    So you have got yourself a straight set of 2001 and onwards K series GSXR forks and top and bottom triples. And you want to put them onto your slabbie, slingshot or pre SRAD water cooled GSXR.



    The main difference is the fork centres and offsets, they different from early ( 214x35) and late (207x32)



    The swap is quite easy with the right parts.




  2. #2
    Bloke with a smaller stick
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    There is 2 ways of preforming this swap. The thing that stops this from been a bolt up fit is the diameter of the top steering head bearings. The older GSXRs have a 30mm bottom bearing and a 25mm top bearing. The newer K series have 30mm bearings both top and bottom.



    The outside diameter of the top 25mm bearing is 47mm

    The outside diameter of the bottom 30mm bearing (this is also the top bearing on K series) is 55mm



    You can either take your frame to a motorcycle engineering shop and get your head stem machined out from 47mm to 55mm. this will allow you to use the 30mm id bearing in the top head stem and allow you to use the K series stem, locking nuts etc.



    This photo shows the difference between the two steering stems (yes one stem is bent) note the larger diameter




  3. #3
    Bloke with a smaller stick
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    What I chose to do was press out the K series stem and insert the earlier model stem into the K series lower triple. This will allow you to use the standard 30mm bottom bearing and standard 25mm top bearing. The problem you then are faced with is that the K series top triple has a 25mm hole in it for the steering stem to go through. The earlier stem is only 22mm at this point, therefore a bush will have to be made with a 22mm id an a 25mm od to take up the difference in hole diameters.



    This photo shows the early GSXR stem pressed into the K series clamp




  4. #4
    Bloke with a smaller stick
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    The following photo shows the difference in hole diameters. This is the space that will be taken up by the bush that you will have to get turned up. We stock these bushes or you can purchase from a bearing shop the part no is MDU2220.



    To finish off you will then need to use the earlier seal and locking nut.





  5. #5
    Bloke with a smaller stick
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    also keep in mind that the steering stops will be in different spots so you will have to work your way around that.

  6. #6
    Weekend Warrior
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    thanks mate,thats most helpful.can you help with info on the same job on a L model 1100?

  7. #7
    Tyre destroying, mad bastard menace
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    how about SRAD gixxers? are they more simple or less simple or does nobody bother with it? (mines the 600 with non-USD forks[xx(])

  8. #8
    Bloke with a smaller stick
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    quote:Originally posted by dinorider

    thanks mate,thats most helpful.can you help with info on the same job on a L model 1100?
    mate, it is the same.

    the steering stems didn't change till srad.

    the steering stem that is pictured in the K4 lower triple is from a 1100 oil cooled

  9. #9
    Bloke with a smaller stick
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    quote:Originally posted by pt

    how about SRAD gixxers? are they more simple or less simple or does nobody bother with it? (mines the 600 with non-USD forks[xx(])
    srad is even easier. they don't have a 25mm top bearing, from memory there stem it the same as the K series (pitcured) so it should just bolt straight up with out stem swaps or using different bearings

  10. #10
    Tyre destroying, mad bastard menace
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    yay hooray for bolt on mods

  11. #11
    Tyre destroying, mad bastard menace
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    Hey deano, i'm pretty sure the stem will fit into my r1 clamps, was just wondering how i go about pressing out the stems, how is this done and which way do they come out?

  12. #12
    Tyre destroying, mad bastard menace
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    Riiight, you press it out using a press.. genius.

  13. #13
    Tyre destroying, mad bastard menace
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    Seifer, You need to heat the bottom clamp first. I use a blow torch for this, just be carefull not to get too much heat into it. Then press it out on " you guessed it " a shop press pushing from the top down. Make sure you support the bottom clamp as close to the stem as possible to prevent any chance of bending it. You will probably start building up some pressure then there will be a pop before the stem starts moving.

  14. #14
    Tyre destroying, mad bastard menace
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    I had to remove a stem from a bottom triple only the other day, you may laugh but it does work, ive used this method a few times.
    Take you bottom triple with stem and put it in the frezzer for a couple of hours. After a few hours (as quickly as possible) place the triple and stem on a block of wood so it looks like a T and pour boiling water over the triple clamp (try not to get too much boiling water on or in the stem)once the triple clamp is warmer than the stem place a socket or peice of pipe large enough for the stem to fit inside and give the socket/pipe 1 or 2 sharp hits. The triple clamp should just fall off. Ive used this method both with boiling water and a blow torch and both work well.

  15. #15
    Tyre destroying, mad bastard menace
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    Oh yes the freezer is good. If you freeze the stem & heat the clamp when reassembling they will probably just drop together or at worst maybe a couple of taps with a hammer & a drift.

  16. #16
    Tyre destroying, mad bastard menace
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    Hahaha, im laughing ozkat, but its genious, i'll give it a crack when i get home. Cheers. Oh can i get a better explanation of how you have the tiple sit, do you mean its upside down like a T, so does the top of the stem rest on the ground and I hit the triple, or does it sit theway round and I hit out the stem?

  17. #17
    Tyre destroying, mad bastard menace
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    I've done it Ozkat's way too & it works a treat
    It's VERY important to support the tripleclamp around the base of the stem (I use a piece of pipe longer than the stem with a slightly larger O.D. & sleeve it over the top) when you're hammering the stem out or the clamp will bend if you have to hit it too hard.

  18. #18
    Weekend Warrior
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    we always put main bearings in the freezer and heat the cases on 2 stroke bottom end rebuilds

  19. #19
    Tyre destroying, mad bastard menace
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    That's how you replace valve seats too - seats in the freezer, head in the oven (not your own head)

  20. #20
    Tyre destroying, mad bastard menace
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    I'm still unclear of where it is that im to hit and where the pipe goes, which way up etc, could someone please clarify. ie describe in more detail. Thanks

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