Talk about a pain to find type shit
Talk about a pain to find type shit
tell me about it worst thing is someone went out of there way to put those throttle bodies back on the bike in that condition no wonder bill was having a fucking tantrum trying to balance them
Shit, mate, you havnt had much luck with this turbo build!! You must be getting close to getting all the gremlins out now
This find should relieve you of alot of your wierd running problems i suspect. Keep at it mate and cracking bike .
Fuckin' hell Al, when you described it on the phone to me I had thought the holes for the injectors had been bored too big and the injectors were held in with chemi metal, I didn't realise they actually broken through elsewhere. I'm amazed it didn't catch fire on the dyno. It makes a lot of sense now looking at how much trouble I had trying to synch the bloody things. I suppose in view of the rest of the issues with the thing we shouldn't be surprised though. The bike has been a real bag of surprises, not good ones either. I'm glad you've stuck with it though it would have been too easy to fuck it off before the turbo was rebuilt and the mapping finished.
set up of the original boost guage dont work to well in the tank, not the best idea to look down when you want to know how its boosting
so turbosmart boost guage and cup, original mounting stuff you get aint suited to the bike so plenty of head scrathing, made a mount under the speedo found an old rizoma res mount mod to fit think it worked out well
bill have a look at this or any one else who has an idea how to solve
HI Guys
see if any of you can help
got one of these
[URL=http://s15.photobucket.com/user/spart666/media/P1040164.jpg.html][
someone help me with this formula
hayabusa 2004
front sprocket 17 rear 40
wheel circumferance 198cm
4 pulses
this what we came up with couldent and dont understand why they use impw 80 when it should be 4 so assuming they are doing that as an example
b/r = 17/40 = 0.425
4 x U = 4 x 198 = 792/b = 792/17 = 46.6
46.6/0.425 = 19.8
problem with this is
ok im assuming we enter 4 for impw and we are entering 19.8 cm for wheel circumferance ?
impw lets me input 1 to 99 so 4 for aint a problem
circ lets me enter 101 to 350 so i cant enter 19.8 and before you say try 20 cant do that either in the motogadget web site it says that the circ has to entered in CM so 101cm is the starting point i think im just thick
here are the instructions
http://motogadget.com/media/download...al_en_1.13.pdf
You've miffed it a little bloke 46.6/0.425= 109.6 I'd go with 109 . You've multipled it instead of divided it is all.
il try that today im just waiting for my iphone to fall off the headstock only a matter of time
cheers
Measure the wheel/tyre circumfrence in millimetres, EG 1960mm then calculate the sprocket ratio, IE 15/45 is 3 to 1, 14/45 is 3.21 to 1.
The Busa speed sensor creates 4 pulses per revolution of the front sprocket as do most Suzukis and Kawasakis
So for one revolution of the rear wheel EG1960mm travelled the number of pulses created will be 4 X 3.21 = 12.84
Divide the wheel/tyre circumfrence EG 1960mm by 12.84 = 152.6mm per pulse.
now if you can only set a certain number of pulses into your electronic speedo, simply multiply the distance per pulse by the number of pulses IE 5 pulses will be 5 X 152.6 = 763mm, so the speedo now knows that for every 5 pulses it receives it will have travelled 763mm.
If your distance input has to be between a pair of numbers then simply multiply the distance per pulse by whatever number you require to get into the correct zone, and then use the number you multiplied the pulse distance by, for the number of pulses.
So if you need to be in between 1000mm/100cm and 1600mm/160cm then multiply 152.6 until you get in between, so X10 would be 1526mm/152.6cm and X9 would be 1373.4mm/173.34cm
Always use the highest number of pulses you can enter into the speedo as this will give much better resolution and therefore greater accuracy and response.
As an additional bit of info, for those guys converting oilcooled GSXR and early Bandit motors to use the electronic speedo pick up, rather than drilling the output shaft to M6 in order to attatch the suzuki signal generator, it is far easier to simply use the sprocket nut from a ZX9R C/E/F models 98/03.
This bolts straight on, and just needs the edges trimming a little to fit into the cover, it generates 4 pulses per revolution of the front sprocket, and the Suzuki and Kawasaki speedo pick ups are identical, and it all works using the late model Bandit sprocket covers.
I have done this self same modification on a Slabby 1052 motor ( which already is drilled to M6) but I used the ZX9R sprocket nut, and it all works fine.
Your sprocket ratio is 2.35 to 1, this means that for every revolution of the rear wheel you will see 9.4 pulses. Each pulse travels 210.6mm or 21.06cm.
So you need to tell it how many pulses it will see and the distance travelled per 1 pulse is 210.6mm/21.06cm, so 10 pulses would be 2106mm or 210.6cm 5 pulses would be 1053.1mm or 105.31cm
As long as you know your 210.6 times tables you'll be fine!!!
1 pulse = 210.6mm/21.06cm
2 pulses=432.0mm/43.2cm
3 pulses=642.26mm/64.22cm
4 pulses=864.0mm/86.4cm
5 pulses=1074.6mm/107.46cm
etc etc etc
Anyone reading this will realise i have cocked up the numbers slightly, but it was late and I'm not great with my 210.6 times tables!!!
Last edited by Dynomutt; 21-06-2013 at 09:59 PM.
exactly what i thought knew you back up my theory
il sort it out tommorow thanks again bill
on the fuel pump issue defo one fuel line ie the 10mm bit is way to soft so probably collapsing when hot creating my fuelling issue when the bike warms up, got the fuel pump out and it will fit in the back of the bike so going to mount it away from the engine which inturn should get rid of any issues with the fuel lines getting pinched and restricting the flow
spot on on the breather from the fuel cap all clear and looks like its venting just got to make sure i run the lines correctly, so all the niggly bits getting slowly sorted, all going well gonna take it for another spin on sat to see if ive sorted it
cheers mate
hi all been a while
been out playing with the busa
so last post was about that fucking speedo all sorted now thanks more gremlins reared there ugly head
bike runs fine get into 6th put the power down and feels like fuel starvation turn engine off back on again fine
thought it was a prob in top gear decided to let the boost cut in on third and open it up and it did it again
so looked at the fuel lines replaced them and re-routed still there
checked fuel pressure all ok
pump looks like it may have a problem or could be getting to hot in engine bay
so replaced with bosch 044 good for 600 bhp and decided to mount in the rear ot the bike and use armoured fuel hose doing this meant nice straight fuel lines to the tank and fuel rails
unit just about fitted had to mod the subframe a bit due to the new pump being bigger
guess what still dident sort it out so great unless you put the power down was going to take
it back to get remapped then bill asked me about the aftermarket cap yes it was venting but his thought was not enough so on his advice we drilled the vent hole out in the pertol cap
AND IT NOW GOES LIKE STINK
a 5 min fix be warned after market petrol caps
any way since then been out loads bikes behaving boosting lovely waiting till winter to get secondry boost sorted by timblake moore and stainless dave is going to be playing with the bike looking at a spondon look tubular arm one off
some bike pics taken recently with a mates faired busa
a week later i fell of it and i mean fell off it sitting on the bike leant over to switch on the ignition i was at an angle and over it went with my mate in fucking hysterics
damage crushed coolent bottle and bent turbo filter was lucky no other damage bodged it up and carried on playing for the day
so new bottle on the way and talking to pipercross to get a new filter made up whilst i was at it had another look at the bike decided to sort out the front discs rear sprocket was goosed so a nice new steath sprocket fitted also hate the mount i used for the oil cooler sorted that
just waiting for the botle to turn up back on the road
just blagged a busa 2008 rad nearly new with both fans £100 result that turned up today so that will be another mod done will post up and loads of lsl bits i won at a recent show
Fuck I'd love a go on that. Nice work Al. Glad it's running like it should, your missus isn't going to see much of you until the weather turns shit is she?
You may have just solved my issue. My bike runs well till I give her some beans then she just looses power. Hit the kill switch off and then on again and she's all good. Have an aftermarket bllet fuel cap fitted and I realised that it was creating a decent amount of pressure int he tank on my K4 as it was not venting. Seems like this might be the issue of the power loss then. I will drill the cap and see how I go. What size did you drill to equalise the pressure?
souinds identical to what was happening to mineOriginally Posted by wackyrider
went 3 times the size about 2 mm on the inner part of the cap and put a 1/2 mm hole in the cap itself off set when lined up so 1/4 mm opening no issues bikes boosting and going like a train
yea simon aint seen her much over the last 2 weeks however got to paint the house so modding up the new rad in the evrenings
rad 2008 busa extra cooling and the front rad pipes now go behind the rad
set up the fans and 2008 rad has a threaded hole in the side ideal for the coolent bottle had to muck about with one of rad lines as too short
need to get my mate to flatten and thread another hole in my inline hose mount for thre thermal sender then finished
tryingout a pipercross filter 20mm wider and taller but more air also think it fits well with the bike had to get a silicon sleve made up to connect bout nice and sdolid aint going nowere let you know how it goes
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