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Thread: Again with the zx9 float bowl mod thing

  1. #1
    Pizza delivery boy/girl
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    Again with the zx9 float bowl mod thing

    I want to run my 2001 x9 without the ram air scoops and am wondering which way to go. I've spent hours searching and have seen a few different ways to do it. The youtube vid http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KtISwbsv-yc looks pretty straight forward. Others stick the hose up through the filter but I'd like to avoid cutting a hole in the K&N filter. There was another using the carb rack assembly.

    Me bike
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    BTW I've seen pics with a vacuum switch valve but mine doesn't have that, just goes straight through to the front of the bike. Normal?

    I've seen this has been answered before on this site a few times but the pics were removed or I didn't understand the parts they were talking about. I'm mechanically challenged so bear with me.

  2. #2
    Tyre destroying, mad bastard menace
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    I ended up trimming up the intake scoops, then plumbing the carb balance pipe into the airbox underneath where the scoops entered the airbox. That way I didn't have to cut a hole in the filter. Works fine at all speeds....after I rejetted to suit the new exhaust and K&N filter.




  3. #3
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    That looks mint! So you did something similar to the youtube vid? What did you use to filter the pipes?

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    Bloke with the stick Gix11's Avatar
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    Here's a full build thread if you're interested: http://www.streetfighters.com.au/for...4-Cammy-s-ZX9R

    More stuff on the main topic: http://www.streetfighters.com.au/for...X6-RAM-air-mod

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by whitelineweaver View Post
    That looks mint! So you did something similar to the youtube vid? What did you use to filter the pipes?
    I used the filter that was on the original pipe coming from the fairing scoop.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gix11 View Post
    Here's a full build thread if you're interested: http://www.streetfighters.com.au/for...4-Cammy-s-ZX9R

    More stuff on the main topic: http://www.streetfighters.com.au/for...X6-RAM-air-mod
    Thanks, I've seen both before but reading through cammy's build again gave me a couple of ideas. I bookmarked the 2nd one 2 days ago. Think I found every post on the internet relating to the ram issue

    Quote Originally Posted by Hillsy View Post
    I used the filter that was on the original pipe coming from the fairing scoop.
    I'd thought of doing that but I don't think there's room. I'm assuming you tee'd the 2 float valve pipes into one, then the filter, then branched a pipe into each intake scoop? Going by the other thread, have you removed the kleen system?

  7. #7
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    I took the airbox off, turned it upside down and drilled a hole through the bottom mid way between the two intake holes. Then I plumbed a single pipe into there and ran that to the single balance pipe off the carbs (with the filter on the new pipe between the carbs and the airbox). That way I didn't have to cut a hole in my K&N like they do on the ZX7R mod.

    And you don't need to run a pipe to each scoop. Not sure what You Tube vid you are talking about, but if it's the Seppo one where he claims he makes 15 extra HP with his mod he's full of shit.

    And I did remove all the KLEEN air stuff - get yourself a T piece to put between the 2 intakes on the cam cover and plumb the crankcase breather into it. Plug the other vacuum pipes up and you're good to go.

  8. #8
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    The holes in the reed valve covers can be plugged/blanked/sealed completely with no adverse effects, no need to have any vac or vent lines going to them.
    Muzzy make billet blockoff plates if price is no object.

  9. #9
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    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	4251 Can you enlarge the image because I can't?

    So did you run a pipe off this connector around and up through the middle hump of the airbox between the intakes with the filter inline and only used one of the Y connectors, maybe blocking the other one?

    With the kleen system, just rip it out and rejoin the reed valves to the original hose going to the carb rack (right of bottom pic) or the bigger hose at the back in the left of the first pic? Or just block off the reed valves completely. Saw a pic where someone had glued a coin underneath!

    Attachment 4252 Removing this canister wont affect the engine?
    Last edited by whitelineweaver; 10-05-2013 at 06:29 PM.

  10. #10
    Tyre destroying, mad bastard menace
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    Hmmm - your airbox base is shaped differently to my E1. Mine is a lot flatter between the intake tubes.

    You just need to plumb the balance pipe into the airbox somehow. You could put it into the port for the crankcase breather, then plumb the crankcase breather to the KLEEN air tubes on the cam cover. Doing this keeps the crankcase in a more positive vacuum and (apparently, so I've read...) can give you some extra HP as the engine spins up quicker.

    Or just plumb the balance pipe to the KLEEN port on the airbox (the one that sits below the balance pipe in your pic). Either of these methods means you wont need the in-line filter (because these ports are past the air filter).

  11. #11
    ASF Gold Full Member Yella's Avatar
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    If you fit a turbo you can plumb the balance lines into the airstream before the plenum and you have the added bonus of extra power
    'Originally Posted by rock hard stock swingarms are for blokes with balls!! ha ha'



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  12. #12
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    Ok cool, I think I'll go with the first idea. Or the turbo

    Take the KLEEN system out and plug the remaining small hose that goes to the back of the carbs and block off the KLEEN air port at the end of the carb rack. Route the crank case hose to a13mm retic T at the cam covers. Run a hose from the balance pipe around the front of the airbox (to avoid a kink) and into the crank case airbox port. No hole drilling and need of filter, I like it!

    Have I got it?

  13. #13
    Tyre destroying, mad bastard menace
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    That's the right idea.

    You might be able to take the hard plastic balance tube off and mount it the other way round so it comes out on the other side of the carb rack (it will be closer to the airbox port you are aiming for and will save you some tubing spaghetti).

    Or just cut the right angle off the hard plastic tube as it is and then plumb that into the KLEEN port on the airbox (you'll only have a 90 deg bend to deal with then).

  14. #14
    Tyre destroying, mad bastard menace
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    Quote Originally Posted by whitelineweaver View Post
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    Actually, you already have the pipe there from the KLEEN system - just cut it past the 2nd bend, cut the bend off the plastic balance tube and join them up. Job done.

  15. #15
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    I'd like to keep the hard plastic intact in case I want to reverse it all later. Yeah right!

    Ok I'll use the KLEEN port with an elbow or two to get there rather than taking it round the front to the other port.
    The KLEEN hose diameter is larger than the balance pipe port. I'll figure something out.

    Thanks for your time Hillsy, really appreciate it mate.

  16. #16
    Weekend Warrior
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    Post some pics when you get it sorted

    http://www.streetfighters.com.au/for...l=1#post378789

    In this guide it mentions at the bottom of the Float Bowl Mod section - "Note: No matter how you connect it, connect the line (Bowl vent) where the clean air is, between the air filter and the carbs." ?
    http://www.jonesisland.com/7r/motor/

    I was able to run the float bowl vent hose to the right side side of the air box on my ZXR 750 using the original hoses, Different airbox on the ZX9 but you should be able to sort out something similar>

    Last edited by NINJAINOZ; 11-05-2013 at 12:37 AM.

  17. #17
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    Ok, I'll do that tomorrow.

    Thanks for the links. Bit confusing til I realised they were about 7r's!

  18. #18
    Weekend Warrior
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    Sorry didnt mention that but basically the same carby's & the same principal & as the links mention make sure the hose goes in between the filter & the carby's, If you run the hose in front of the filter & happen to ride on some dusty roads the dust can go down the float bowl vent hose/s & fill the carby's up with some lovely dust/engine internal cutting compound

  19. #19
    Tyre destroying, mad bastard menace
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    Quote Originally Posted by whitelineweaver View Post
    I'd like to keep the hard plastic intact in case I want to reverse it all later.
    Just keep the angle piece and you can re-join it by slipping a larger diameter hose over both pieces and clamping it on (a bit like like in NINJAs pic).

    Post some pics when you get it all buttoned up mate

  20. #20
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    Yeah, good idea. I'll cut it and hose clamp the already bent pipe on. Right, off to get stuff.

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