billet heads with chevy V8 sized valves will do that ......lol
billet heads with chevy V8 sized valves will do that ......lol
They are flash bit of kit I will say..........
ok so i have spoken to the man who know's all things Kawasaki ( Peter Frasca of Just Kwakas)
and he has I.D'd it as a GPZ1100 B1 engine with a Z1000 ST ignition cover and
J series carbs!
$300 DAM well spent i feel!
so i couldn't resist popping the cam cover off to have i look......
first was the smell of beautiful fresh oil!!! bonus!
then i gazed upon beautiful unmarked cam lobes.....
cam gears with virtually no wear..... has this puppy been apart already?
and Z1000 cams? or are 1000 and 1100 cams the same?
![]()
drop the sump and check for bits of cam chain guides/metal, also screen on oil pump will usually have bits of silicone stuck on it if it's copped a rebuild
if it's all clean and your on a budget I would leave it as is until you can start the fucker up and check for smoke/rattles
$300???...................CUNT!
B1 means 17 mm wrist pins still a shit hot motor :-)
Nice score mate !! Does anyone know if the cam timing with these is as bad as the KZ 750's ?
I have no idea this will be by first big air cooled Kwaka they seem pretty simple....
Famous last words.
yes very simple and relatively cheap to rebuild.............until you want HP
what started out as a mild mota on my ZED went off the rails a bit due to a few deals on parts.........
a ported (flows 91cfm) GPZ1100 B1 head with roller cam chain conversion, new (oversize) valves/guides/seats $1800
new egay special 1134 MTC piston kit/sleeves in ready to use barrel $600 with freight
billet .470 lift cams new never used $400
Kibblewhite shim under bucket set up to suit cams $380
38mm Mikuni flatslides near new $400
then the head needed to be machined for cam clearance, inlet ports matched to inlet rubbers then bench assembled to check valve interference/clearances
then the were pistons were machined for circlips, lightened and re-balanced
add in the black heat coating on cases/barrel/head/rocker cover so it looks like the Z1 mota
had crank runout checked then welded, got a low mileage (was like new) complete gearbox/clutch basket from states
add in all the sundries like gasket/seals/rubbers/guides ect and you could have a nice shiny "INSERT LATE MODEL SPORT BIKE HERE"
my mota is ready for final assembly just sorting out all the ancillaries so it can all be put together to go in the frame
now need to start on painting/detailing/putting together the rolling chassis................
Mate thats gonna be one sweet engine!
I have spare cases comming for mine so for now ill paint them up
Then swap everything over probablly throw in new mains weld the crank while its out
And rings too depending on the comp test.
Once ive had the bike running and on the road for a while
Im thinking i may take advantage of the direct injection ports in the
GPZ head......... YES.......Turbo.......
if the bearings are ok on crank and you dont have to press apart i wouldnt bother with the cash to weld at power levels u going to go for
mine isnt far from efe's- ported and reshaped combuston cambers in a 1100st head with over size vlaves etc etc etc ,1230 mtc
kit and depending on what cr and cam specks we end up useing will hit between 135 and 150 rwhp (prob closer to 135)
even at this combo(light weight magnisn z9 raceing clutch and mtc plates with up 2 extra 4 so plates on a back cut gear box)
i wont be welding the crank but i was lucky and dont need to press apart so no weld. no need to weld just for strenght at power levels u what to go what kills them from what i am told is slicks.........
as for turbo save yr self the hassel and use the later tb's and keep those blanks for yr wet nos system :-0
and efe u so right when you say hp cost money on these motors :-)
but 30 + yrs of drag raceing means you and i get a storming motor that will live for ever lol
mine will prob have the 38 or 40 rs carbs and for easy just a dyna 2000
Oh if big ends are ok I won't worry, I know these cranks are bulletproof!
Ozzy I like your idea, those ports are just begging to be used.....
EFE I cant see the pics in your build???? Are they still there?
nah mate, my build threads are fucked with all the pics missing and I lost all my saved pics when my last laptop shit itself.
gunna have to start another one.
i think most of the time if u need to change anything on the crank its to do with side lash ?
but end of day look into it i have nothing agaisnt welding them and if u pull them apart they have to be welded but if rest is k i wouldnt weld for the sake of it but depends on what yr motor builder has found best in past, myself i was just happy to save the cash for things like new bucket and shims in the head
btw dont bother with the old cb900 starter trick with these donks, there are brand new high output after market starters for these motors in the states i think mine is costing under $250 and for something that i have it told will spin a high comp 1560cc motor if the wireing is correct I dont think thats bad value
efe you and I might have varing diffrences in some of our polictical and soical views
but any man that loves old sckool kwaka gear cant be all that bad :-)
here's a few pick just for you mate!
pipe is a $50 Kerker that I want to do in old skool sprayed aluminium white
marzocchi came off Sickboy's Rickman (30mm taller than stock) swapped for bourbon
swingarn is underbraced and frame braced at neck/top tube and between front engine mounts
everything that bolts to it has been polished or chromed and that's genuine gold plated acorn bolts for all the engine covers
paint job will be a stockie (not sure what one) on tank with a 70's style mural on top/stock on ducktail then colour matched "rising sun" on each side cover
Can't wait to see pics of all these projects developing and finished. They all sound awesome.Despite other comments I might have made I do actually llike the old Z's indeed a certain Gpz 1100 B1 still has a special place in my head.
It looks like you got a fucking bargain there with that engine.
For my part I've always had the approach of doing it as best as I can do it rather than doing it quickly(although these aren't mutually exclusive) and as such I'd be looking at hi lift cams, big bore, big valves, flowed and ported head, big carbs, oil cooler and electronic ignition. For me that's more in line with Oldskool tuning rather that putting a Turbo on it and I absolutely agree with Linton Wet NOS single hit 70 BHP kit.
mmnnn dont forget the progressive controller and tune your ramp of hit drooooollllllll
a waste on the street ( at min no bottle on bike and the need for flush etc) for only a few runs at track prob kills it
but cool as fuck.....