Depends what you want to do dan, when i fiddle with the 4 valve ducatis i tend to advance the cams with a smaller lobe centres to give them a little more low down and bigger lobe centres for the two valves gives them a bit better breathing up top,But with rockets turbo i left the cams where the original engine builder set them..like i say depends on the configeration and what you want to achieve..Hey Booster does the dish pistons reduce the tendency to detonate ?
There std pistons and by using them with a spacer i probably have compromised on detonation control, after market have the right piston/head clearance for proper quench with a spacer plate fitted , maybe its less a problem with the turbo, at high boost levels the airspeed at the valves will be nearly supersonic , figure thats pretty good turbulance
I like to be conservative with cams on the turbo's, likes of Jo's bike i put in earlier gsxr cams to get back some mid range that would have been lost by the decompression , trying to make a more linear powr curve rather than a 2 stroke feel
105/107 deg is favored by the busa guys, i think i'm probably more like 103/103 , my race busa with an inlet on exhaust on the other hand is 108/108 and the 750 with web cams is 110/110
As Hagarr says its just a matter of moving peak torque around to a favored place , no different to NA but the effect is exaggerated some, mostly by low compression with what are essentially huge cams if you compare to the old school car stuff
interesting
Yeah Greg I am using the ECU Editor on the B-King and am impressed with its adjustability and extra functions it has.quote:Pete its a whole new ball game with the 08+
2 x 280cc injectors/cyl std, with the ecu editor stuff now i can program the std ecu to do boost based mapping,vary the ign dwell for more spark energy,onboard boost control, turn off fault codes from disused sensors,and heaps more
www,ecueditor.com is where you can download the programme and see its capabilitys and, www.boostbysmith.com has the hardware
I have never compared the hp between retiming the cams or not, heard one report of something like 7 hp it advances the cams ~3.5 deg which will put your power earlier in the rev range and at worst limit the rpm your bike can pull, it may not be worth doing if your happy with how its running
i don't bother when doing a 1mm spacer , but did notice on the 750 with 2mm spacer and not retimed that it couldn't pull passed 12000
The B King has now got the quickshift functionality which I will be going with, a guy I know has installed on to his Busa and he is more than happy with it.
Oh by the way luv ya work!
If you get a yen for easy cheap HP, put a shot of dry nos into the B-K, i did a gen 1 busa and flashed it to suit, So easy, only need the bottle, lines,solenoid, spraybar (Owner built which was a drilled aluminium block with 4 brake flarenuts and lines for outlets ) and associated loom , took a slighty warm busa at 180hp to a strip animal at 220hp
Putting a bit of extra effort in is realy paying off with the satisfaction i am getting as each day is done,
When i first brought this bike and eventually rode it , it was good but had no soul , well now it has
Greg, spoke to a guy the other day about the hose fittings you got from the US. Says some of them are made in China-- not as strong as they could be.
Bike,s looking real good
cheers Bones
Bones at roughly 1/5th Aussie prices i'm fairly sure there made in China, fine for water fittings, esp with the lightweight nylon braided hose ,
Just had a good laugh, went looking for a link and i found there advertising on Aussie ebay now
http://stores.ebay.com.au/Towers-Rac...34Q2ec0Q2em322
Bike hits the dyno tomorrow and getting a run at Heathcote weekend after this
Ok well lots of mucking around with setup and faulting loggers etc but its basicly done,
bit of wheelspin (jagged lines), these 2 runs are 12 psi and 14 psi
156 and 175 ft/lbs 324 and 342 hp
current settings are 4 psi in 1st and staged to 14 in 6th
now to put the plastic back on and ride it
fuck me thats some seriuos power there greg well done mate she's gunna be a fucking handfull
Glenn Eason drinks and smokes and lends his arse to other blokes
I'll supply the hands (no charge)
excellent!
Guid day Booser! Ah loove th' bludy curves huir uv a much! she's gonnae be an awesome motur join ussssss!!!!!!quote:Originally posted by Booster
Ok well lots of mucking around with setup and faulting loggers etc but its basicly done,
bit of wheelspin (jagged lines), these 2 runs are 12 psi and 14 psi
156 and 175 ft/lbs 324 and 342 hp
current settings are 4 psi in 1st and staged to 14 in 6th
now to put the plastic back on and ride it
Holy shit Greg, I really like the boost to gear tune.
What does the "OL" stand for on the graph?
Exceeded my expectations some, i would have been happy just over 300hp at 14 psi but the intercooler and turbo choice seem very well suited to the bike
Ivan nothing beats having similar thrust in each gear, OL is the overlay graph which in this case is the 12 psi one
Software is pretty basic on my dyno but the simplicity suits my purpose
one casulty of the 3 tanks of fuel i used getting it how i wanted
Hey booster when you get back I must grab the info on a DIY dyno if I can, mostly the software and roller dementions weight etc than anything, although the idea of building it into a larger bike trailor is appealing. Might knock one up myself and maybe put up a how to on here.
On a Side note I've noticed that most higher powered runs on dynos seem to really eat tyres fast (faster than the road with big power runs) I'm assuming this is due to the roller diam changing pressure gradient on tyre (from contact patch being different) causing different heating in the tyre. Is the software capable of being adapted to different rolling diameters to improver roller shape (Diam) to reduce this issue? Or is this a moot point at the power levels your currently playing with?
quote:Originally posted by Redmohawk
On a Side note I've noticed that most higher powered runs on dynos seem to really eat tyres fast (faster than the road with big power runs)
Ummm No... We have held over 2000HP and not had issues with rubber.
I'm assuming this is due to the roller diam changing pressure gradient on tyre (from contact patch being different) causing different heating in the tyre.
It's roller design that is the problem, if the knurl is too sharp it'll cut the tire and if it's to smooth you will always get wheelspin.
Inertia, ramp rate, how you tie the bike/car down and a host of other things greatly impact upon how the dyno works.
Generally the larger the roller Ø the cooler it stays
Can you take a picture of the roller please Greg?
I think its harder to hookup on the roller , my suspension is pretty much bottomed out with 4 ratcheting tiedowns , usually tie to the swingarm too but i don't want to damage the fresh powdercoating..
dyno info here http://wotid.com/dyno/
Freak!!! Thats a lotSaw it last weekend looks fast & tough
Thanks Ivan I'm glad I was thinking along the same lines, Figured bigger Diam was the way to go just have to re hash all the calc's to work out inertia etc might be a pain. Was refering to big HP on dyno's with road going bike tyres specifically, I also have seen big hp with cars on rolling dyno's work just fine (though no where near 2000) wana lash that down well lol.
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