Just wanted to know which is oil is the best?
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Just wanted to know which is oil is the best?
I find canola oil is the go for 'those special' moments.....
I only use Motul in my bikes though.....
So you reckon Motul?
Full syn or semi syn?
What special moments are you referring to?
What about Silkolene?
i use whatever is on special 20w50 in my bikes and cars. It works beautifully and gear changes are smooth as silk on the RSV... even though i very rarely use the clutch
I used Motul full synthetic in the Gixer and now the Tuono and just put some in the busa, not sure if the busa likes it as much as the other two did though.
I didn't much like the shell or mobil stuff, although the mobil V twin was really good in the Buell . The gixer amd Tuono gearboxs much prefered the dear stuff.
im with Stu ,i use motul full syn,
What about some of that Kmart brand car oil?
It will depend on what bike you have, and what the spec of your motor is, there's no point in filling an old Zed up with a fully synthetic oil, and you wouldn't fill a K10 Gixxer up with a basic mineral oil.
most car oils ,have a detergent in them to clean and wash the cars motor,inside,these will dissolve your clutch plates ,if you hate your bike use cheap as oil,spending a little extra on a good brand of oil to suit your motor and model as Dynomut said,just go to your bike shop and spend ,kmart isnt for bikes.
What he said.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dynomutt
There isnt a right / wrong answer.
Type of bike ? Used for touring ? Abused at the drags ?
Used to cool too ? wet or dry clutch ?
Whats you budget ? Ice and Snow or tropics ?
Serviced regular or neglected ? Whats a good deal near you ?
If there was a perfect answer you wouldn't be asking the question.
A bit like what's the best Tyre ?
Personal choice and different situations.
i use full syn motul in my gixxer and motul 5100 in all my other toys
have you heard the saying $2 head $2 helmut ??
same goes with oil
kmart oil $2 gunk up ur system cost you money
motul/sikolene etc $$$$$$$$ but keeps it healthy
If you seriously even considered Kmart car oil for your bike......maybe you should've bout a postie???:rolleyes:
:)
I was bored
you post whore you ,lol
I'm coming for ya Pete
ahahaha
This is bullshit don't listen to this rubbish! ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^:mad:Quote:
Originally Posted by RevHead
A lot of car oils have fiction modifiers these will make your clutch slip as they are designed for dry car type clutches.
If the weight is correct and it has no friction modifiers oil is oil, just remember it just another combustion engine nothing cozmic about it.
100% on the money .Quote:
Originally Posted by oldskool
This is more like it :)
LIKE!Quote:
Originally Posted by oldskool
apparently the main advantage of synth oils is that they break down slower, but if you're replacing oil every 4-5k km it wouldn't have a chance to push the boundaries anyway.
apparently you know every thing.lol, i know you dont.
Though 4-cycle motorcycle engines may be considered more similar to automobile engines than 2-stroke motorcycle engines, they still have very different performance requirements. Historically, 4-stroke motorcycles have had problems with gear pitting wear in the transmissions and clutch slippage. In many cases, this can be directly attributed to the oil used. Most automotive engine oil is developed to minimize friction and maximize fuel economy. Since the oil for many 4-stroke motorcycles is circulated not only through the engine [as with an automobile], but also through the transmission and clutch, different characteristics are required of the oil. First, a certain amount of friction is necessary to prevent clutch slippage. Second, the oil needs to prevent wear and pitting in the gears of the transmission. These and other essential characteristics are addressed in the standards developed by JASO for 4-stroke engines.
As with the 2-stroke classification, the JASO 4-stroke classification is also divided into grades, MA and MB. MB is lower friction oil, while MA is relatively higher friction oil. Other than friction, the JASO 4-stroke classification tests for five other physicochemical properties: sulfated ash, evaporative loss, foaming tendency, shear stability, and high temperature high shear viscosity (HTHS). Sulfated ash can cause pre-ignition if the oil is present in the combustion chamber. It can also contribute to deposits above the piston rings and subsequent valve leakage. Evaporative loss and foaming reduce the amount of lubrication and protection in the transmission, engine, and clutch. With less shear stability, oil loses its capability of retaining original viscosity resulting in increased metal-to-metal contact and wear. High temperature high shear viscosity tests provide viscosity characteristics and data under severe temperature and shear environments.
In regards to synthetic oil though they're not all really synthetic, are they.
I think Shell is one in particular that is not a true synthetic.
Just because you can cut and paste now Pete doesn't make you right.Quote:
Originally Posted by RevHead
You are still wrong.
lol
Really if it has the correct spec, no friction modifiers (shouldn't matter if you're running a dry clutch), no detergents it doesn't matter if it says car truck or motorcycle.
That's also why I mentioned the KMart oil cheap as fk was the right spec and I changed it often and it was a STRAIGHT MINERAL OIL.
When I changed it, it came out clean.
You are right mate, the detergents comment is bullshit, some oils defend gear faces better than others only due to there molecular make up and additives.
If any of this bullshit was right how the fuck is there so many high mileage classic bikes still on the road?
I don't profess to know everything Pete I just use the "think about it" part of my brain unlike you.
I dont know if the information I was given a few years back is bullshit or not.
After running an old bike (xs1100) for 3 years using mineral oil I switched the synthetic and the motor developed 3 leaks all in paper gasket areas. When I was in at the shop getting new gaskets , mechanic told me it was common to get leaks on older bikes when swapping to full synthetic (he seemed to think the different makeup of detergent/oil scrubbed away some of the sludge blocking possable leak points in gaskets etc)
Since then bikes I own that have run mineral oil get the same. Stop start short rides kill oils good propertys due to oil not warming up enough to boil off crap like fuel, water.