Cogs & Sprockets

I just swapped out a 15t front cog for a 17t and went for a spin. The bike feels like it has less pickup initially, once I get over about 4 or 5krpm I can't feel much difference.

My initial thoughts were that the top end would make up for it ??

Over a set distance the bike used to pull about 180ks in 4th looking for 5th, now it is pulling 190ish in 4th and still pulling hard.

I'm just wondering will the extra speed amount to a quicker pass. I'm only talking 1/8th mile here too. :confused::confused:

this might help.
http://gearingcommander.com/

I used that work out a few things before ordering the cog, I'm just wondering if speed will equate to faster times if that makes any sense to the drag racers out there.

when it comes to the crunch you are only going to be in 2nd or 3rd across an 1/8th mile anyway so i would gear it for pick up myself

Mate I'm thinking the other way around taller gearing will mean that you accelerate slower.
Better off accelerating as fast as you can. I would go smaller on the front
But thats just me

Fucking Banditrod the ninja

a big fat one at that lol

http://www.bazaarbizarre.org/sanfran...1/fatninja.png

hahahahahahaha nice

i have always worked to 1 on the front is worth 3 on the rear so 2 up is 6 down on the rear really good if u want top speed runs on a salt lake or a turbo to push that gearing
and have always been told on a 530 chain u dont want less than 15 on the front as chain has to small turn under that but have never ttested it

The Tuono runs a 525, the 15t front I've been running seems to kill them about every 10,000ks.

On the 1/8th I'm into 4th on the Tuono where on the gixer I was just clicking second.

With the 15 / 42 setup I was having trouble keeping the front down so this was wrecking my 60', I'm wondering if a smoother launch with the 17t will possibly help my 60'. ??

I've ordered a 16/42 520 to put on but I'll run the test and tune on Saturday with the 17/42 525 and see if it makes any difference, put the new chain on that night and run it on the Sunday and see what the difference is.

I would think if your lifting the front heaps lowering the front with straps would be a better option (assuming the bike is road as well as track) if its already lowered and your still lifting and or breaking heaps of traction then taller gearing might be an option. Reducing gearchanges (running through traps in 3rd instead of 4th) might save you a few tenths especally if your backing off for gearchanges (instead of using a flatchange setup). Better to be going through the traps just maxing out in 3rd than clicking 4th 50 feet before them.

If your swapping chain/sprockets look at a 520 chain the dirt squirters all swear 520 instead of 525 makes a load of difference to pickup and thats what your after.

the 15t front I've been running seems to kill them about every 10,000ks. I just put 20thou on my old 1100 and never Wore my sprockets out ,have you been over tightening your chain a little,or just to loose.
i put a 530 chain and sprockets on my 1100 way back in 2009

prob due to more power pete

and a 525 will wear faster than a 530 as well.

well there you have it.
its only got 139 hp at the crank.

Everything is a trade off , smaller chain lighter sprockets will let you accellerate faster but you will get slightly faster wear. 520 chain and ali sprockets are often used on big bore/stroke 1000's making up over 200hp and last up to 10k so how much do you want to spend to go that little bit faster ?

I run 520 chain on everything even the turbo with out any hassle and most run -1 +2 as my prefered gearing. I have had no problem with chain and sprocket wear but I don't use mine as a everyday ride so I don't really worry about that either

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Redmohawk

Everything is a trade off , smaller chain lighter sprockets will let you accellerate faster but you will get slightly faster wear. 520 chain and ali sprockets are often used on big bore/stroke 1000's making up over 200hp and last up to 10k so how much do you want to spend to go that little bit faster ?

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true statement,on my dirt bikes alloy rear sprockets made all the diff,on the road i use and like the ever lasting 530 set up ,plus i rode my 1100 everyday as well,im riding the new bike everyday as well now ,what brand of chain lube do you guys use ,ive been using full synthetic chainsaw lube for years ,i get a little fling off but nothing to worry about

Conclusion.......17/42 sucks arse, 1/2 second slower over 1/8th than 15/42. Simply not enough torque to go fast enough in 200mtrs. Put my new 16/42 520 setup on when I got home, I'll see what happens tomorrow.

sweet keep the updates coming

Not a big supprize , But was worth the test eh. Interested in what the 520 sprockets n chain do.

520 chain and sprockets 16/42, feels smoother, not as much lash I think they call it, it surprised me I could feel the difference as I couldn't feel any difference when I done the conversion on the GSXR a few years ago.

I dropped about .4 a second but not under 7.4 which I was hoping to be, still a little boggy off the line but was very consistent. I'm thinking up a couple more on the back and I should get back to the same pickup as the 15 on the front. Don't want to go back to a 15 front though, I think it is too hard on the chain on this bike.

Only five bikes at the meet and two of those were chookies so no bragging rights but dial your own times evens things up if you do it fairly. I ran a 7.55 on a 7.5 dial in against a guy who ran a 7.0X on a 6.9 dial in for the final and come second.

I need NOS......

Interesting , I would have thought 2 tenths but not 4 impressive. What kind of rpm's are you launching at ? We talking full throttle slip clutch or more sedate launches ? Hows the front end going now ? Heading for the sky or behaving better with the slightly higher gearing ?

Launching at 5 - 6krpm, plenty of clutch, clutch is all out by 10ft past the lights. Any more revs and any less clutch and it'll just wheelie through the lights, not a fast way to launch. I just watched some vids I took and the problem area is the 20' or so foot past the lights once I get all the clutch out, sometimes it drops a 1000 or so revs if I launch to low in the revs or forget to remove my brain and grow some nuts, it's a fine line.

My biggest problem now is not twisting to 100% throttle, between hanging on and getting ready for second I noticed sometimes, the slower runs, I only crank it around to about 80% throttle in first, if I was to get serious I'd get a quick action throttle too.

It's skipping the front tire most the way down, thank god for steering dampners.

I take it this puppy is road to ? If not , What about some slightly lighter springs in the clutch , but put a lockup in it at the same time ? A little easyer to let slip (without you grabbing the leaver as much) at low revs but locks up nice at 100% throttle openings for you ? Just make it more machine operated instead of rider operated . And a 1/4 turn throttle to open it up a little quicker ?

Other thing is can you get weight more forward ? Drop the front end but run rake adjusters to keep the front end stable ? Or if you want to get real wild what about a link rear end to make it push the front down just like a 4 link rear on a drag car . Big changes and really only a dedicated drag bike then but could be made to work on the road if you worked at it .

This is a link to the Final on Sunday afternoon. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CszB8N8C6xQ

Nice. Cheers Stu.

It's a road bike 99% of the time so I'm not going to get too carried away.

Shopping list includes, NOS, map switch, fork straps, adjustable lowing arm for rear suspension.

I want sub 7 sec 200mtrs consistently.

all sounds like a good plan . Nos is king for cheap fast removable hp and bags of torque !

if it was me id go wet system and pogresive controler
but all depends on how much u looking at adding and how much u want to spend

I'm a cheapskate, it will be dry shot. Just had to rego and insure two cars so it'll have to wait until next month now.

Small Wet system isnt much more than a dry , or you can turn a dry into a wet with little work (the real cost is the bottle and Nitous soleniod) Wet is the way to go , to much fucking about to get dry running right 100% of the time and when it dont work right MELTED MOTOR!

Who would be the best people to talk to regarding a wet system installation ?

Do it yourself mate , look up on the web read a bit and buy an off the shelf system and away you go ! It really is that easy. Jetting on an off the shelf system is usally setup a little rich.

If you want 100% piece of mind on instalation put a pressure switch (has to be very sensitive for gravity setup , pump powered units are easyer to find switches for) on fuel line after fuel solenoid just before fuel metering jet (most off the shelf fogger systems run the metering jet for fuel at fogger (bit that goes into your intake to squirt fuel and nos into your motor))

Then link pressure switch to Nos solenoid power relay, then a "No fuel at fogger Nozzel" situation means No Nitrous oxide and No lean situation. If You can find a fuel pressure regulator that will take your injection fuel rail pressure and reduce it to 10 psi Great ! The advantage of running 10 psi fuel pressure is Nos and fuel jets are pritty much the same diam Ie 0.6mm jet for each is 25 hp gain. Just make sure your pump is up to the task of feeding the injection and Nos system at max output. (prob not a big issue with a standard bike injection setup)

Some light reading for you on Nos If you want to really roll your own system or just learn the in's and outs . This guy is how I learnt to build systems myself a few moons back (gocart was racing 14 years back and that was my 3rd home made system)

http://www.nitrous.info/

And If your inclined to go with off the shelf here is a setup info pdf from "Nos" Branded Nitrous systems (pritty straight forward)

http://www.holley.com/data/Products/...72-SNOSrev.pdf

I prefer systems jetted before the solenoid (better metering more than anything) first page has the pros and cons of both types of setup.

Well I canned the idea of NOS for the Tuono, too much money to do it and I don't really want to toast the Tuono engine if I get it wrong.

So I bought a busa instead as my fighter / drag project. I'm still getting it right but noticed it needs a new chain today, any idea what chain, cog and sprocket setup would best suit the drags / highway for the busa ?