Nice. So the wiring is all sorted then (according to the video)? Oh, and you mentioned paint, what's it going to be?
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Nice. So the wiring is all sorted then (according to the video)? Oh, and you mentioned paint, what's it going to be?
love the cut down breather, much cool compered to std or normal aftermarket :-)
A couple of amendments to the wiring - a connector so that the fuel pump can be quickly connected / disconnected (as I don't know yet whether I'll be using it or not), and the neutral switch wired in (instead of the oil temp being wired in as a neutral...) - but otherwise, yes, all done (I hope). And paint will be on the body panels and tank, and will be two pack... all paint, no stickers or badges.
Oh, and I've had it pointed out to me that the 'one-off' breather is just about exactly the same as a standard Z650 one! Which actually works in my favour, given that the end result is going to look like the Z650 that (at it's heart) it really is...
Made a (slightly) adjustable steering stop.
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...625_134620.jpg
Not the prettiest of things, but should look okay when it's powder-coated black.
Wiring done thanks to Bob The Wizard, and the Zed rolled back into the Shed of Dread...
Parked next to my SV650 it looks surprisingly small...
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...624_105352.jpg
It also looks rather good.
Thanks Si!
Originally, my 650 had only had one aftermarket fusebox, with just four fuses, but with a bit more electrickery involved now it needed extra fuses and a second fusebox -
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...624_120052.jpg
Consequently, rather than have the fuseboxes rattling around, I made up a bracket to weld to the back of the battery box.
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...624_145652.jpg
Although I've been a bit quiet on the subject of late, I've still been getting into the shed at any opportunity. The bike's getting stripped down now, to get the chain clearance on the frame done, and do the final welding on that and the oil tank mounts. Then it'll be final build...
Notching it Oz - it barely needs it to be honest, and I could probably get away with just shaving the tubes, but I'll do it properly and cut out a section and weld some plate in...
I have even seen it even done with a big fucking hammer when its that close :-), notching is properly cheaper than a 520 chain conversion, when I finish my frame jig I would like to try spreading a frame but in all honestly it isn't any better than a small notch
I'm really digging this build
Hmmm.... I have a hammer. A big hammer...
Oh, before I started stripping it I took a trip down to HEL to get some brake lines made up, and to see if I could get the oil lines sorted too.
It fitted rather snugly in the back of my Citroen Berlingo van...
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...704_182641.jpg
But looked rather better out in the sunshine outside the HEL factory.
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...705_114728.jpg
I wanted the same spec and style of brake lines as used on the British Superbikes that HEL supply to... like this.
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...711_215155.jpg
And while I was there, Kev (owner and builder of a very cool Martek Suzuki) also replaced the oil feed lines to the cylinder head with neater, covered lines with swaged fittings - much better than the red and blue anodised stuff that was on there before.
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...714_204706.jpg
Back home, I remmebered that I needed to amke a bracket to hold the dome-shaped cover over the rear of the boost gauge. I wanted to keep the classic Z look on the clocks, which meant dual covers.
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...721_163743.jpg
And with the cover drilled to suit twin bolts so that the pressure line for the boost gauge can run through the original mounting hole in the middle
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...725_205518.jpg
I love those oil line
Ages ago, when I made the oil cooler brackets, I said that they'd need a lower bracket & bump stop type thing to stop the cooler from rattling against the frame down tubes. So it was about time that I made them... The L-shaped brackets were welded onto the bottom cooler bracket.
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...721_164340.jpg
The rubber stops are plumbing washers for some kind of tap that I found in a box of bits, and I'm hoping that they'll be okay with the heat off the header pipes... hmmm, not too sure that they will, but hey ho...
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...721_210818.jpg
And now the strip down for paint, polish and pissing about...
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...726_223819.jpg
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...730_170356.jpg
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...730_174642.jpg
I'm not going to say "I'm loving this" again as that's getting old, so I'll just say "Yes!"
Anyway, with those dome tap washers, the centre part of the rubber has a plastic rod through it which will eventually connect with the frame and either vibrate or rattle apart won't it? Something more like this would be a winner: https://www.sinclair-rush.co.uk/cate...6/push-in-feet
Can you tell I've had problems with vibration over the years?
Where the 'bump stop' sits against the frame down tubes it contacts with the rubber part rather than the very middle bit as it's slightly offset from the middle of the downtube. I'm hoping that this'll be okay.
Even so, I've had a look at that link ;-) but as they can only be ordered in packs of 50+ it'd be a bit excessive as I only need two. I'll see how well they work (or don't) and keep an eye out for a possible alternative in the meantime...
Remember all the palaver with the rear caliper?
Well, the half that I'd 'releived' too much via an over-enthusiastic application of grinder was thrown in the general direction of far-away, and I got hold of another caliper that I split and ground to fit. This time without going so far as to fuck it up... However, this one had the pad pins seized in place, and the piston wasn't too keen on coming out either. I got one pic out by welding a nut onto it, but the other was being more stubborn.
The piston came out after I left the caliper half in the freezer for a weekend, and then heated it on a pan of boiling water only about an inch deep - this was the caliper body expanded but the piston didn;t, and it slipped out like a dream!
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...613_192025.jpg
However, the pad pin was still stuck in place. I had to drill a hole though from the outside of the body (carefully measured using the other caliper half) and then drifted it out with a pin punch!
The other half got some treatment too, with the banjo mount tidied up, and the bolt holes countersunk so I could use countersunk stainless allen bolts instead of the standard chunky steel things.
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...624_102655.jpg
With some paint applied and bolted back together with new stainless bits and new pistons & seals I ended up with this -
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...803_210620.jpg
Well worth the fight,
I painted the clutch and ignition casings too...
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...803_202540.jpg
And the engine and alternator cover, but I didn't take a pic of them for some reason...
... oh, hang on, yes I did...
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...801_195751.jpg
Like I said earlier, to get some decent chain clearance I was going to have to notch the inside of the frame rails or give them a twatting with a big hammer. I chose the former, mainly because I didn't want to get too giddy with the hammer and end up breaking things. Again.
I'd wrapped masking tape around the frame rails when it was built up and with a chain in place, so I could see where I needed clearance. With it all stripped down, I cut a piece of 40mm square box section steel, and split in lengthways to get two pieces of C section.
I clamped a piece on the inside of the frame, parallel with the bracing added in a previous life, and marked it up for cutting.
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...803_192546.jpg
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...803_192632.jpg
Then I got the angle grinder and files out...
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...803_201124.jpg
And tried out one of the C section pieces for size, before marking it out and cutting it down to suit.
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...803_203550.jpg
And then proceded to do the same thing for the lower chain run.
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...804_202648.jpg
https://youtu.be/-sUXMzkh-jI
Says it all, very cool
Yes and yes.
And then I took the frame to Dave Dunlop at FastByMe turbo systems, so that he could do some welding which would be of far, far better quality and structural integrity than I will ever be able to manage...
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...808_144041.jpg
And the end result...
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...809_190104.jpg
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...809_190124.jpg
And he also blue-glued the shock extension pieces in place as well
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...809_190053.jpg
Now I need to clean the frame up and get some paint over it.
The frame ready for a coat or three of shiny black...
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...809_215713.jpg
And with that done, it was delicately slipped over the painted engine.
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...817_203107.jpg
Engine colour choice - Achievement: 100%
Frame colour choice - Achievement: 100%
Fucking around - Achievement: 0%
Oh, believe me Si, there's been a lot of fucking around! :-)
I'd painted the original cast Mr Turbo plenum a few years ago (ahem), and it was looking rather scruffy, so with the engine now all black, I decided that the plenum could go back to the original finish, so started cleaning it up
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...817_213027.jpg
With the added side effect that the Mr Turbo logo would be highlighted
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...817_213034.jpg
Cool effect!
I keep getting told the old Mr Turbo kits are too basic and I should look at
blow-though or injected, but I still want one. Proper Old Skool madness !
nice ....will it come with a get out of jail free card ?