Why not just use the suzuki VR sensor? Works great on mine :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Surt
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Why not just use the suzuki VR sensor? Works great on mine :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Surt
thanks heaps Morry, just tryin to match ur bull frog mate! slingy i thought that the stock sensor is hall thats why, now ive seen the light and gunna use the relocated stock one, btw thanks for the hint on triggerwheels.com
ps slingy u said u used microsquirt/msii combo, could u tell us more about it? do u control boost with it, what mods, etc?
Yes mate no worrys,Quote:
Originally Posted by Surt
I'm running the origional version of Microsquirt with the inbuilt ignition drivers. The Current version requires external drivers or coils with inbuilt drivers, so may be a little different.
I use the same trigger wheel as you mounted to the turned down centre of the OEM crank trigger.
http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...845800x600.jpg
It seems best to set this so the leading edge of tooth 9 past the missing tooth is TDC. This then means the MS see's the reference of the missing tooth and then can start calculating your advance as it then nows its got 90 deg's untill TDC to work with. Plus its still has 18 teeth without seeing the missing tooth untill the second tach event.
This then uses the stock VR sensor wired in to the VR input of the MS with no other mods. Easy!
Coolant is just a stock GM coolant (Trojan Brand) sensor bought through Supercheap.This was just drilled and tapped into one of the cam end bungs.
[img]http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/ss11/slingy88/750 slingshot/P1010038800x600.jpg[img/]
Also in this picture you can see the TPS sensor, this was just wired in as per the MS manual.
TB's are 34mm GPZ1100, these are the same spacing as the GSXR so went straight in with no racking changes.
Plenum is GPZ750 turbo complete with its Air temp sensor. This is an open element type as these are the only ones that respond quick enough to air temp changes to be of any use. Again GM do a suitabley cheap one which again can be be bought through Trojan if required.
MAP sensor is a 3 bar GM copy from the bay.
Injectors are 460cc high impedance Bosch type Mazda RX7 and went straight into the GPZ TB's. Had to make a fuel rail and couldnt find the extrusion anywhere in OZ so had to buy it in from the states.
FPR is SARD. Great for bikes as fully adjustable and very small in size and pretty cheap . I think my pump is a pierburg one as you have to find one that can pump the max flow of your injectors ( in my case 4 X 460 = 1840cc's a minute) at the right pressure as in our case we are turbocharging we are looking at the average base pressure of 43psi plus the rising rate change of the boost your running which in my case i wanted to allow for a max of 25psi boost so thats about 68 psi all up fuel pressure that may be required. and the pierburg was one of the few that was actually rated to flow that kind of fuel at that kind of pressure.
Coils. Stock are fine but mine were a bit wankered so i am running ford 4 post wasted spark coils with 8mm silicone leads driven straight from the MS.
[img]http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/ss11/slingy88/750 slingshot/P1000840800x600.jpg[img/]
Had to make a vacuum manifold out of some scrap alloy tube and welding tips to smooth out MAP signal. Also placed a small cheap plastic fuel filter in the line to the MAP sensor to also help with smoothing the signal.
[img]http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/ss11/slingy88/750 slingshot/08012011014.jpg[img/]
I think thats about it for the install really, but feel free to ask anything you want
Yes mate no worrys, I'm running the origional version of Microsquirt with the inbuilt ignition drivers. The Current version requires external drivers or coils with inbuilt drivers, so may be a little different.I use the same trigger wheel as you mounted to the turned down centre of the OEM crank trigger.Quote:
Originally Posted by Surt
http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...845800x600.jpg
It seems best to set this so the leading edge of tooth 9 past the missing tooth is TDC. This then means the MS see's the reference of the missing tooth and then can start calculating your advance as it then nows its got 90 deg's untill TDC to work with. Plus its still has 18 teeth without seeing the missing tooth untill the second tach event.This then uses the stock VR sensor wired in to the VR input of the MS with no other mods. Easy!
Coolant is just a stock GM coolant (Trojan Brand) sensor bought through Supercheap.This was just drilled and tapped into one of the cam end bungs.
http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...038800x600.jpg
Also in this picture you can see the TPS sensor, this was just wired in as per the MS manual.
TB's are 34mm GPZ1100, these are the same spacing as the GSXR so went straight in with no racking changes.Plenum is GPZ750 turbo complete with its Air temp sensor. This is an open element type as these are the only ones that respond quick enough to air temp changes to be of any use. Again GM do a suitabley cheap one which again can be be bought through Trojan if required.
MAP sensor is a 3 bar GM copy from the bay.
Injectors are 460cc high impedance Bosch type Mazda RX7 and went straight into the GPZ TB's. Had to make a fuel rail and couldnt find the extrusion anywhere in OZ so had to buy it in from the states.
FPR is SARD. Great for bikes as fully adjustable and very small in size and pretty cheap . I think my pump is a pierburg one as you have to find one that can pump the max flow of your injectors ( in my case 4 X 460 = 1840cc's a minute) at the right pressure as in our case we are turbocharging we are looking at the average base pressure of 43psi plus the rising rate change of the boost your running which in my case i wanted to allow for a max of 25psi boost so thats about 68 psi all up fuel pressure that may be required. and the pierburg was one of the few that was actually rated to flow that kind of fuel at that kind of pressure.
Coils. Stock are fine but mine were a bit wankered so i am running ford 4 post wasted spark coils with 8mm silicone leads driven straight from the MS.
http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...840800x600.jpg
Had to make a vacuum manifold out of some scrap alloy tube and welding tips to smooth out MAP signal. Also placed a small cheap plastic fuel filter in the line to the MAP sensor to also help with smoothing the signal.
http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...8012011014.jpg
I think thats about it for the install really, but feel free to ask anything you want
awesome slingy thanks heaps mate! so do u control boost with ms or wat? wats ur warm up set up then?
also the crank sensor looks as if its stayed on its initial place, is it so? cos 36-1 wheel is a tad bigger
do u tume via blu tooth? i bought a 8" tablet in hope to use it for a dash board
im gunna use a walbro pump and 48lb venom injectors borrowed from my other projects, as well as fpr and gm sensors
rear mount holes r way to large for bolts - the upper 1 is 11mm for a m10 bolt and the bottom 1 is 13mm for a m12 bolt, thats why i made fatter studs - 11 &13 mm with original m10x1.25 and m12x1.25 threads
but when i tried to insert the upper mount stud, it didnt go in all the way, so i took a closer look and understood, that beautifully bent upper mount plates aint supposed to be bent
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/...r/DSCF4430.jpg
so i unbent em with a hammer and here we go!
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/...r/DSCF4447.jpg
see an ally spacer? just savin on weight by each gram lol
the necks welded to the upper rails so im back to where i was 4 weeks ago... but further steps r gunna be faster this time cos now i know how haha!
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/...r/DSCF4445.jpg
checkin the flat for engine
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/...r/DSCF4446.jpg
everythin's adjusted and levelled just cant wait for monday! fuckin hate weekends and holidays!
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/...r/DSCF4448.jpg
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/...r/DSCF4449.jpg
No problems mate, anything to help another Squirter into life lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by Surt
Crank sensor is completely stock, after assembly of the 36-1 wheel i put the whole thing back in the lathe turned down untill it fitted and spun inside stock VR sensor with about .4mm clearance.
If it dosnt come with it, upload the MS firmware with MS2 Extra Code This is awesome and gives heaps of extra features, including boost control, but i havent looked into that yet.
Plus it gives the best tuning feature of being able to run Alpha-N (tps based Fueling) but with a Multiply Map function. So normally TPS based fueling is no good for turbo as for a given throttle possition , you may or may not have boost according to engine load etc, so what this does is use the MAP reading as a multiplyer so the setting in the table is a constant but this is then multiplied by whatever the manifold pressure is either vaccum or boost to ebd up with the correct fueling. Very clever stuff :D
I just tune with laptop in rucksack while running Tunerstudio's VE Anylize live which is a realtime Table tuner, using the input from the Wide band O2 sensor to tune.
Warm up is just a simple 2D table in Tunerstudio that adds extra fuel untill a predertimed temp is reached then it cuts out, so no extra cold start injectors needed or anything.
thanks again mate! so u dont use an iac valve? askin that coz with microsquirt u have to choose between iac valve control and boost control - thats wat Mat Cramer told me. well i guess that the iac valve is needed only when temperature below zero celcium? do u still have choke installed if it ever had been like on busas?
No IAC valve or choke needed. My TB's (GPZ1100) have a Fast idle lever which just uses a small cam to open butterfly slightly, so i start on this and once its warmed up for a couple of minutes, knock it off back to normal throttle stop. But be honest it would nearly run straight up without any additional revs just be a little low when cold and slowly rise as it warms up.Quote:
Originally Posted by Surt
Mat might be right as i think microsquirt has a limited number of outputs compared to a full Megasquirt ecu so you probably have to choose wisely which ones you want to use for what function.
i see but i dont have such a lever on my 99 srad 750 tbs, just an adjusting screw with cable that limits a full closing of butterlies, hopefully just warm up inrichments will be enough for a cold start up?
If you use MS2/Extra code, you can use the PWM idle output for boost
control - thats wat he letterally said
Shouldnt be a problem. I know of 3 bikes using such TB's and havnt heard of any warm up issues.Quote:
Originally Posted by Surt
The latest version of the code has a designated boost control menu but it looks fairly similar to the PWM control as well. Either would probably do the job.
hopefully it won't i hate hanging around shit better of keepin all simple and noice lol
still dont understand how u managed to keep the vr sensor on its original (seemingly) spot, cos the 36-1 wheel is bigger
a 108mm outlet and 88mm inlet stacks
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/...r/DSCF4458.jpg
a car injector with 14mm o-ring goes into the tb noice and easy - but it doesnt into the stock fuel rail bung
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/...r/DSCF4456.jpg
1 stock and 2 +2mm and 1 +14mm spacers and a new tb's rake
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/...r/DSCF4460.jpg
tomorrow a +18mm uber long screw is gotta be made
voila, this time made it just for 2 days /rather evenings
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/...r/DSCF4461.jpg
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/...r/DSCF4462.jpg
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/...r/DSCF4463.jpg
i like the frame mate looking good
What size trigger wheel did you get? I got the 51mm diam one and like i said, only had to turn the overall diam down a smidge to get it in with stock VR position.Quote:
Originally Posted by Surt
holy fuck surt thats starting to take shape well i will keep an eye on this
thanks Albi!Quote:
Originally Posted by ALBI
ahh so! mine is 64mm thats why! cheers mate! 88Quote:
Originally Posted by slingy88
thanks banditrod yup the hell spawns anti matter theres gonna be a big boom hahaQuote:
Originally Posted by BANDITROD
the ic has arrived bloody bulky and heavy - 5.8kg lets see wat it will weigh after mods
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/...r/DSCF4467.jpg
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/...r/DSCF4466.jpg
taken 1.5 hr to slice it - so thick r the walls
had to cut the core to fit in the frame 3 times
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/...r/DSCF4469.jpg
always wanted to see how the bars r made, thought they r thin walled, no fuckin way - 5mm thick! also have no idea how the fins r fixed to the plates, obviously by dot welding, but the work looks just to labourious, i had to use jigsaw to separate the finned parts - they hold together tight as!
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/...r/DSCF4470.jpg
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/...r/DSCF4471.jpg
u could break ur leg with the cast tank if dropped on it
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/...r/DSCF4472.jpg
tryin it on
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/...r/DSCF4473.jpg
pay no heed to the piping direction or shape
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/...r/DSCF4474.jpg
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/...r/DSCF4475.jpg
http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/...r/DSCF4476.jpg
fuck thats awesome
WOW, this is looking bloody great Surt! Love it.
You should get next to no pressure drop with that intercooler as you've chosen to be able to have the end tanks on the long edge like that.
Rough rule of thumb is that the cross sectional area of all the passage ways through the core needs to at least equal or be greater than the cross sectional area of the up pipes going in and out of the intercooler to minimise pressure drop. A quick way to work this out is (core length X core width / 2) . The divide by 2 bit is because roughly half the core is passage ways and half is the blanking plates inbetween. Then obviously just your 2pieR ( sorry cant be arsed to find the correct pie (3.142) symbol ) to work out cross section of your pipework.
Probbably telling you to suck eggs but might be interesting to others.
Just trying to make the point as well that ANY intercooler is NOT better than no Intercooler as excessive pressure drop means the turbo has to work harder to make more boost to compensate which means more heat in the compressed air which the small intercooler probably couldnt pull out so back to same charge temp at motor as with out intercooler but with turbo working harder and a more complicated system.
Yours on the other hand should be bloody good.
Keep the post coming mate, luvin it all.
thanks mates! yup just doing how Corky Bell the Great and Terrible taught us lol
fuck i love my copy of corky bell's max boost .............. so much gold in one book
Indeed, a great book for anyone looking to go down the turbo path :DQuote:
Originally Posted by ozzy1100
But lesson learnt...................NEVER lend it to ANYONE, as chances are you'll never see it, or the the borrower agian!!!!!
Bastard LOL.
fuck me yr jokeing arnt u how funny is that, it is what happened to my 1st copy and it cost me near $80Quote:
Originally Posted by slingy88
lucky i found it in uk for under $40 to my door but what i couldnt get back was the hrs of high lighting, notes and cross reff i put into it ........
Just out of curiosity mate are the frame tubes butt welded ??? How is the joint going to hold up ? strength wise ??Quote:
Originally Posted by Surt
nup mate they r welded on inserts as i always do, there r gonna be a few bracings as well
slingy i can pm u the max boost's pdf copy if u want it
Good stuff mate !!!!
That would be mucho appreciated Surt cheers ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Surt
helliluya to the Indjun god! feel free to use his link mate and have ur own free copy! i guess i have had mine from 1 of those places
but of coz i can pm u mine slingy!
here all week, try the beef !