Looks good mate, The yellow trim on the seat matches your tool boxes and race stand nicely :cool:
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Looks good mate, The yellow trim on the seat matches your tool boxes and race stand nicely :cool:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.n...31118020_n.jpg
Fully dressed and ready to go
Final Pic's before it goes racing tomorrow
https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.n...26530810_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.n...54129768_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.n...89700483_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.n...23221832_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.n...66575146_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.n...15288585_n.jpg
Seat by VCM. Thansk KEV
Paint by SJP Moto paint Thanks Pav
looks great with that stance....
cheap and very capable drag bike in the end
Looks mad chief!
Very menacing!
Thank's fella's I like it should be a heap of fun and at the right price
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.n...52633726_n.jpg
So first day out and all went wellish.
Best for the day a 10.4 so happy with the shake down run's, heaps more in it, bike pulled well all the way to redline but need to kill the 60ft
The good:
Big burn outs
Suspension is set perfect bike doesn't lift or jump around just sits low and goes
Bike rides straight
Bike pull's hard all the way to redline every gear better than the other stock busa at the track today managed to chase him down for the win :)
The Bad:
Bike needs new fuel lines, spilt return line dodged it up to keep going
The CLUTCH is SHIT even with the Brock's clutch mod it chatters and bites like fuck. No way I can get any good launchs
All in all not bad
https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.n...26823984_n.jpg Bad pic but you get the idea
Well done. Sub 7 1/8th is good, is the top speed what you were expecting ?
Best 1/8th I screwed out of mine all weekend was 7.2 / 1.9-60'. 175ks, traction was the issue, until this afternoon (plenty of rubber down), when I promptly got done in the first elimination..... -_-
Well done Yella. Lots more to come.
Top Speed is close. The launch problem is massive gunna pull it down this week and see what I can see. Will be checking the clutch basket backing plate and spring pressure.
Question's are:
Is the brock's cushion kit the answer? Will it stop the chatter?
Should I get a clutch slave brace aswell?
Or
Should I be looking for something else??
Well done Yella. Good times for you first run with it. And the bike looks great.
Is this the motor you got off Pete? That he was basically throwing out? If so great and cheap fun
Yep it's Pete's old motor and the rest is the stat write off he purchased to get a new motor
You took the words right out of my mouth.Bike's looking good and running good by the look of it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jed
The Blackbirds have a similar problem with the clutch Ian, the dragsters on the BB forum say to pull the first (inner) steel plate out & take all the inner teeth off it & put it back in, I haven't done it to mine yet but they say it smooths the launch right out with no adverse affects like slippage.
Might be worth a try on the 'Bus, quick, cheap & easy.
BTW, That bike looks tough as nails.
Thanks fella's.
TK I had not heard of that but will give it a try
So pulled it down everything looks sweet except
http://www.dragbike.com/dbnews/artic.../11_0926_4.jpg
Obviously not my pic but the same problem,
Next question is stock motor so do I run new stock basket or go for something different.
I have heard that the stock is good for 220ish HP and a fair bit of abuse so it should be good with stock for atleast a season soem are saying about 3 years but will depend on abuse level. Or do I spend the coin on a billet unit?
i say spend the coin. the bike is going to cop full abuse, so you may as well make it suit from the start.
Yeah, it'll only break at the worst time, you know how it is.
Go full tilt now, then when you turbo and you know you will upgrade spring/drag centrifical and away you go.
Here here, id spend the coin mate. you know you'll turbo it sooner or later, a good clutch can make a good drag bike!
Spend money on sorting the clutch NOW! before it breaks. If the clutch is ruining your launches, sort it out and learn to ride the bike as it is.
The terminal speed seems a bit low to me? Not having a go at you and I don't know what terminals Busas normally run , but I was running 137s with a stock 998 Katana motor in 1983!!! It's a great start though.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=Sz1UTiIX1B0
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.n...16811428_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.n...58204997_n.jpg
Measured up all the fibres they are like new, the steels are flat a couple of small marks but nothing to worry about. The inner and outer hubs have some marks but again not enough to worry about. In the vid you can see the movement of the springs
May look into getting the stock 02 clutch cushion when it goes back together.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ps13bfcb3b.jpg
On the second last picture on the lower right, is that burred over ?
Nar the marks are only very small dents not enough to worry about I dont think
Dunno what standard Busa mods are, but my GSX has stiffer springs, but in a thick billet backplate. Rivets are welded. The basket seems ok as long as frictions can slide over any indentations .
http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r...t/IMAG1268.jpg
Yeh, Im trying to work out how to replace the springs myself. Thinking if I drill the rivet to remove the plate then get new springs and weld the rivets, can't hurt to try :)
Yeah , that's how to split it, but you will probs need new rivets with a very high shear strength. The standard GSX backplates can crack at the stress raising corners where the springs sit. That's why billet ones are better and thicker.
Where would you get new rivets from? I sort of went down this path but was trying to get the late model gsxr slipper clutch into the old oil cooled motor. Got as far as drilling the rivets but not putting it all back together.
Grade 10 or 12 bolts ? Maybe ?
Yeah sort of thought about them, just was a bit nervous of using them. Had thought about getting some turned up and then trying to peen them over, but maybe just welding them might be the go.
Sorry for the hijack of thread Yella.
Just turn some up?Quote:
Originally Posted by DCRacing
I wouldnt weld or peen them , hardness / grading will be out to shit with both methods. I'd get button/mushroom head with hex drive in say 8mm grade 10 . The mushroom head will be about the same depth and a peened rivet or welded (prob about the same depth of the spring protrusion through stock plate)
On the inside I'd machine graded nuts with a taper and back bore same taper into basket. A nut with a depth of say 5 mm you'd prob be able to get the nuts down into the basket enough to allow it all to fit. Without measuring its all guess work , but I cant see why it wouldnt work. A little locktight, and if your real keen maybe a centre punch on the the thread.
Your only going to have 1.5 or 2 mm of nut to do the sucker up but if you grind a socket just for the job it should do up fine without eating the nut or socket. Bonus is you can now swap springs at will , or even expreament with a solid (un sprung setup)
If you did it that way the whole thing would be locked as the drive plate needs to have that bit of movement on the basket, which is the issue Yella was having........ i think.
would probably work if the nut was on the drive plate and the button head inside the basket, and ground down.........
will have to dig it out and have a look.
Sorry was thinking out loud so to speek,
I was under the impression there are 3 pieces , one drive floating on springs (Normally riveted with a stepped rivet, instead Bolt to second plate with tube spacer to set correct gap). Second riv to basket to capture springs (Hard bolt second to basket). So 6 bolts in total, 3 with tube spacers.
Or rather than go through to much shit, they are basically the same as whats used on car clutch plates, talk to someone like Doug at NPC who make custom clutch plates for performance cars buy some rivets off of him
http://www.npcperformance.com.au/
We need a like button. That sounds a heap easier. Anyway will pull it apart tomorrow
So thinking while waiting for me to get my act together and sort the clutch, Im thinking I will remove the crank balance shaft any one done this?? Looks easy enough not going to get a dummy shaft just going to seal the hole in the stock shaft. Thats a thought does Ben do dummy balance shafts for Busa's
http://www.hayabusazone.com/resource...abalacncer.jpg
Gimme some sizes & I'll knock one up.