Does Cf means Carbon Fibre (imitation) wrap?
I’m not a fan of anything that pretends to be carbon fibre eh
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Yeah CF means carbon fibre, real stuff though, not vinyl wrap.
Went for a night ride, took a pretty picture...
https://i.imgur.com/MGjAmFw.jpg
...aaaand made a massive mistake, one that I don't think will be fixed any time soon.
https://i.imgur.com/ucIvkva.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/PtzngbL.jpg?1
Rip VFR, hardly knew ya :'(
Oh shit! What did you do mate?
Looks like wheelied over backwards? Also, doesn't look unfixable!
Given it was -1 pretty sure I hit some ice, lost the rear and accidentally grabbed a handful of throttle. Proceeded to loop the bitch haha.
It's fixable but subframe is bent so will need to weld up a new one. Have yet to check the forks.
Arr bugger dude.
Surveyed the damage more thoroughly
https://i.imgur.com/ylEmGqT.png
https://i.imgur.com/bd0HGXl.png
https://i.imgur.com/exwoS8F.png
https://i.imgur.com/65I5Ewa.png
So to summarise:
- Snapped subframe mount
- Busted seats
- Bent subframe
- Snapped undertray
- Smashed rear cowl
- Busted muffler
- Bent right rearset (although Seb's adaptors held up just fine :thumbsup:)
- Bent bars and headlight mounts
- Cracked headlight
- Smashed dash
- Damaged YouTune module
- Massively dented tank
- Dented top triple clamp
- Ignition snapped in half
Pretty sure that about covers it, fingers crossed nothing else makes itself known.
How about you? How'd you shape up?
I'm fine, very gracefully ejected and landed on my ass :p
Won't be leaving home for a few days while I heal but that'll just give me time to figure out what I'm gonna do with the bike.
Faaark NO! You only just got it up mate! Glad you didn't damage yourself to badly, mend up and back to it mate.
mate that just sucks balls all that work you've done...oh well back into it and glad you're ok
Fuck that sucks. Glad you're ok.
The subframe mount is where I'm cringing
Same, can't exactly weld in my apartment car port so I've just used metal putty to get it back on for the moment. With any luck I'll be moving to a house in a month or two so will be able to pick up a welder and fix it properly.
That said, allegedly the putty is rated up to 200kg/cm^2 of tensile force so might hold up alright.
Fuck, glad you are OK, shit result after all the time put in with the build
Holy shit! Glad you're ok.
If you part stuff out....
Created a new thread over on Custom Fighters but figure I'll keep it all in one here for posterity.
This post marks the beginning of my VFR800 mark 2 (i.e. unfucking my shit)
So here's the bike as she sits
https://i.imgur.com/btlcKcn.png
To get the ball rolling I whipped up some quick and dirty headlight mounts using some spare aluminium and what was left of the headlight bucket for sizing.
https://i.imgur.com/wCI1Cjx.png
https://i.imgur.com/P0iXnMU.png
And after some angle grinding and hand filing
https://i.imgur.com/Q63MRQD.png
Finally got round to cutting off the fairing stay tabs which let me mount the headlight nice and tight to the frame.
https://i.imgur.com/DV5ml40.png
Just need to clean up the finish of the brackets with some sand paper but can't get over to the hardware store till my new helmet arrives #BikeOnlyLife
Gonna be making a running gif of the build so at the end I'll have a nice time lapse of all the parts going on.
https://i.imgur.com/jue0Nhk.gif
And thanks for all the support fellas, you're a great bunch of blokes. Cheers!
Seb, so sorry to see this happen. Glad to read your all ok and going to rebuild it.
Thanks man! Way I see it shit happens, just gotta get over and on with it.
With that in mind, chopped the ignition bracket and went to whack the triple back on the bike at which point I noticed it was massively skewed. One side was easily 5-10mm out of alignment with the other.
But about half an hour with a hammer and mallet later:
https://i.imgur.com/QRtwHoX.png
Went on alright
My current plan is to mount the dash right between the upper triple and the headlight and mount an anti-vandal switch in one of the bar riser holes to control the keyless ignition circuit.
https://i.imgur.com/VlsRyYi.jpg
Also my clutch MC is completely rooted so I'll need to source one of those. Anyone got a spare? ;)
https://i.imgur.com/4FCsCRZ.png
Imight have the stock one laying around.
Sorry, just saw this. Thanks but dw, gonna try repair my CBR one with some metal putty.
In other news tank has arrived :)
https://i.imgur.com/tHlHRoz.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/4ymKC9U.png
https://i.imgur.com/rplrYRY.jpg
Cost me $50 + $40 for shipping and $30 for a locksmith to cut a key for the new cap. It's got a couple minor dings but is in great condition overall and came with a fuel pump which is a nice bonus. Most tanks here seem to be listed for ~ $350 without a pump.
I've ordered a new headlight and all the parts for the keyless ignition, hopefully they will arrive in the next week or so.
Here's the new progress gif:
https://i.imgur.com/G9Aaigk.gif
And the running cost total:
- Tank - $120
Total: $120
Win.
Glad to see you're back on the horse mate
Headlight on
https://i.imgur.com/BNEQhrD.png
Running costs:
- Tank - $120
- Headlight - $40
Total: $160
Seat arrived :)
Ended up going with an S2R seat for a few reasons, one it was $100 cheaper than the Buell seat would have been and 2, I have a mate with an S2R whose brain I can pick about the subframe. So without further ado:
https://i.imgur.com/Uwt0hJe.png
https://i.imgur.com/BdUSgyQ.png
I reckon the lines work really well and the Duc seat meshes perfectly with the 6th gen tank.
https://i.imgur.com/ZNPFxjc.png
https://i.imgur.com/NshGBTQ.png
New dash arrived and I picked up the relays and switch I need for keyless start, just waiting on the module itself.
Progress gif:
https://i.imgur.com/ClyjEj9.gif
Running costs:
- Tank - $120
- Headlight - $40
- Seat - $140
Total: $300
Coming back together mate.
That looks really good.
Wired up the keyless ignition, works great.
https://i.imgur.com/QFVA1KT.png
https://i.imgur.com/yIGCnlA.png
The circuit is comprised of a keyless door unlocker for a car, three DPDT relays and a latching switch.
The relays are necessary as the door unlocker only grounds the unlock/lock wires for a second rather than toggling them on and off. Wiring diagram will explain it better than I can with words:
https://i.imgur.com/7DSMo3W.png
Haven't wired in the battery saving sensor wires yet as one will need to go into the brake light.
Currently, when the keyfob is in range, the LED on the key switch is illuminated and one side of the switch is grounded. When the switch is toggled it grounds relay 3 which sends power to the rest of the bike. When the keyfob is removed from range, the lock signal is sent, relays one and two toggle and the key switch is ungrounded, in turn toggling relay 3, cutting power. Hopefully that makes sense :thumbsup:
Running costs:
- Tank - $120
- Headlight - $40
- Seat - $140
- Keyless kit - $40 + Switches & Relays - $30 ($70)
Total: $370
This is another great topic! Nice one Seb.
So what sort of key fob are you using to have a proximity signal to be able to start the bike? Looks interesting.
It's a DEI keyless entry system for a car. Fob is just a standard looking keyless car key.
Finished up my proximity ignition:
https://i.imgur.com/dm4sXUK.png
And a video of it in action:
https://streamable.com/5hcwa
Question - what happens if the bike is switched on/running and the fob moves out of range (ie you ride off with the fob sitting on the bench, or the fob falls out of your pocket?)
Good question, the main button is ungrounded which ungrounds relay 3, switching off the bike the same way turning a key would. The fob falling out is a possible issue but not really a whole lot I can do about that short of just putting it in a secure pocket.
Also with the experience I've got with this wiring harness it'd be easy as fuck to hotwire :p
Ended up going with an S2R seat for a few reasons, one it was $100 cheaper than the Buell seat would have been and 2, I have a mate with an S2R whose brain I can pick about the subframe. So without further ado:
https://i.imgur.com/Uwt0hJe.png
The bike seems to NOT be level on those stands, Wheels look to be different heights off the ground but it hard to tell.
I like the rear of the seat to be level with the top of the fuel tank when it's sitting on it's wheels.
Looking at that picture I'd angle it up a few degrees and have another look at the seat position.
You're quite right, my front stand is taller than my rear stand. The seat positioning was just temporary as I was waiting for this to arrive before I finalised it:
https://i.imgur.com/5jj9689.jpg
You're going to chop up a non fucked Monster frame for the Subframe?