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And a a pic of the 1098s forged rear wheel in the vfr. It ended up being the whole ducati eccentric/hub/spindle/bxp 45T rear sprocket on a driven quick change sprocket carrier, brembo rear caliper, 1098 brake hanger and an aftermarket rear brake rotor.
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Here's a couple of shots showing the parts required for the conversion. Other than the ducati parts
all that required is a 3mm spacer & 1.5mm shim for the hub & a little extender for the brake arm.
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The end result is a much better look.
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& there's some left over parts to get rid of.
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Thanks for the pics Ben.
If anyone needs any VFR parts, i have everything for sale except the frame, swingarm, tank, engine/rads etc and the wiring harness.
It definately accelerates faster from the featherweight rear wheel and the extra 2 teeth on the rear sprocket. When I was seeing if this had been done before, all i could find on vfr forums was a lot of ifs and maybes, including a lot of maybe if you used this spindle and that hub and eccentric and modified this...
I gave ben a wheel and spindle (he had a spare swinger for measurments), and all it needs is a spacer and shim, and a lot of duke parts. My bike now has matching wheels again!
good job guys ,looks great
jules might be interested in the carrier/wheel.
I was about to ask how much you want for the sprocket, carrier and caliper, plus all little brackets there may be.
Does the VFR wheel only take up to a 180 tyre? I think a 190 might be a bit too big on it
I had a 190/50 on it that i swapped over to the 1098 wheel.
the the 190/50 was a bit wider than the 180 that is teh standard size, but still had a nice profile (not too flat). Felt great at eastern creek.
I'll send you a PM about prices. Let's haggle.
this stuff (including the caliper) is now sold pending payment.Quote:
Originally Posted by EXBEN
to jules?
yep.
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So back to 4 way colour scheme. Mounted the right one the other day, cut a small groove into the bottom of the cowl using a dremel cut off wheel to fit over an existing tab on the rad, and then bent 2 dodgy as fuck brackets out of 1mm flat bar from wholes or loops on the cowl to existing bolts on the frame. I'll get around to the left side sometime soon.
I may redo the brackets to tweak the angle of the cowl a bit more.
Opinions?
I hate to say it but they sit too low
What would you know, you're probably high on painkillers.:eek:
I want to change the angle slightly to follow the line on the tank a bit better, but it's hard to move them up because then they won't cover the front of the rads properly, which means they won't help air flow through the rads as much.
I also can't move it any closer to the frame because of the rad hoses.
its got a lot more ground clearance then my busa,hows it handle Chris
mate u should post a full bike shot of that from the side front and top look great
It's actually pretty low to the ground. My legs are a litle cramped to get toes on the pegs (which is only an issue with my slightly fucked right leg, i get pins and needles in my foot).I reckon it handles well, but will be better once I get the 929 rear shock in.Quote:
Originally Posted by RevHeadPete
will do.Quote:
Originally Posted by ozzy1100
It's been a while for this thread, but I've been doing a few things in the lead up to NFR. My metal gear discs were warped already, only about 1000ks on them, so the front wheel is out while i wait for replacements.
Halfway through a coolant flush, i thought i'd pull off the rads and paint them. I did the right one, but couldn't be bothered to do the left one. I also neatened up the rad hoses on the right side near the filler cap by shortening a couple hoses to pull everything in a little closer to the frame.
I moved the coils from outside the frame to inside in front of the airbox.
And the pics below are new rad shrouds from an er6n. It's only mounted by one brake at the moment so the angle is a bit off, but you get the idea.
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Get some heat paint and paint your rads black. It'll blend in with the shrouds better no matter what colour you paint them