That works well mate! This has got to be a record run (working on the bike that is) hasn't it?
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That works well mate! This has got to be a record run (working on the bike that is) hasn't it?
Yes Si, definitely! Well, for the last fifteen years and this bike, yes.
And it might be delayed a bit over the next couple of weeks, as just picked up an SV650 for a runabout bike, that needs a bit of work to get it sorted...
Rooting through more bits and found these, which I'll be needing...
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...t/IMAG0024.jpg
Mikuni HSR42 and float bowl extension kit.
Nice score Dave, I never find anything that good in my pile of bits....
HSR and extension together as one...
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...t/IMAG0028.jpg
Which is all well and good while I waited for the carb adaptor to arrive from Allens Performance.
But when it did...
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...t/IMAG0034.jpg
Bugger!
you obviously bought the wheelie version , gonna be hard to tune with the wheel up and one hand on the bars but its do able
That pics probably doesn't show it very well, but the carb wants to sit where the frame rail is...
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...t/IMAG0033.jpg
There's no way that the frame can be trimmed, as it'd take all of the frame tube out, and moving it directly outboard would mean a spacer about four inches long and the carb ending up where my right knee wants to be, so it'll have to be an angled spacer that points the carb forward I reckon...
can you make a pic of your intake setup from behind mate?
Yeah, I'll have a go, will probably take the battery box etc out so I can get a pic that shows it properly...
Mechanical injection ? Silly I know but I'm so over efi ATM lol
How would it look or work angling the carb forward ?
Would prob mean modifying the carb and or the the turbo inlet and looking
like a steaming dog turd :-(
I have been looking at getting my grubby paws
on a mates druin supercharger kit mmmnnnn
So, having finally got back into the Shed of Dread, and ignoring the carb issue hoping it'll go away, I started actually doing some stuff. Although, unsurprisingly, not much...
After taking off the temporarily bolted on headers, I took out the two remaining exhaust port studs, and fitted a new set. Ooh, a teeny tiny step forward! I also got a mate to spin up a set of spacers for the oil cooler that I'll be fitting, so I can get on and make the bracketry for that. But had to go back and check out that rear wheel spacing. With the spacers that my good mate Sam had made, I got the wheel centralised within a mill' or so. Which was fine, but as the pic below shows, it is scarily close to the left hand side of the swinging arm, and the chain run is going to be close to the left-hand shock too. Added to which, it's looking highly likely that the chain and rear frame down tube will want to be occupying the same space.
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/.../IMAG02451.jpg
I'm now thinking of shifting it to the right by five or ten mm, and accept a slight misalignment of wheels...
It would shit me to have to do so and I have seen runs with
only a few mm of clearance but to honest vmax's and the like
are that far out from std (5mm from mem).
Mushroom head Bolt with nut on outside (aka Disk brake mounting bolt) will give you heaps of room on sprocket side. Down tube might be a little trickeyer though. Cut and Plate ?
Mohawk, that pic is a bit deceptive, it's not an issue with the shock mounting bolt, plenty of clearance there. But you're right with the frame I reckon...
Okay, so while fiddling with my rear end (er...) I found a caliper hanger that matched the spindle diameter, but which needs some machining to make it the right thickness for what I'd discovered on the left hand side of the swinging arm. And I bolted on an SV650 caliper I hand hanging about.
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/..._BURST0011.jpg
I dunno if you can see here, but it's right for the offset of the disc (zero) but not for the 210mm diameter.
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/.../IMAG02531.jpg
So, with some guesswork and a ruler waved in it's general direction, I reckon I need a disc of 230mm diameter. Either that, or get a new caliper hanger made, and I think that the disc is the easier option! So, anyone know of any online disc dimension lsitings? Some quick measurements show that the disc fitted to the Dymag is a six bolt fixing (so a three bolt one would also do the trick) of PCD 109mm, with the central hole being 99mm diameter.
Oh, and I was reminded about something that's been bugging me since I first built the bike with the 1100 motor - the shock alignment.
When the swinging arm was made by Martek, the shock mounts were wider apart than the standard mounts, so they're a bit 'splay-legged'...
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/.../IMAG02541.jpg
So I'm thinking of doing something with the top shock mounts to bring it all into alignment. The shocks worked fine, but it was always something that bugged me, and ikt just wasn't right.
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/.../IMAG02591.jpg
some bikes shocks have an off set upper eye or you can fab/order a custom one mate
Yeah Surt, and while they were fine when I was running the bike before, it just don't seem right. And the thread is a bit ropey on one of the shock mounts too, so it's a good excuse to rectify that, but not 100% certain that I'll do anything yet...
Back with the brake, I'd initially thought that I'd use this hanger -
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/.../IMAG02671.jpg
But as it has a rubber damper in it (dunno why, most don't seem to have it, I think this was from a ZXR750H1) it'd be a bit pants to machine, so maybe I'll go with this one instead -
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/.../IMAG02681.jpg
I've marked it up with the changes that it'd need to work, although I'd still need to find a larger disc, as you can see here -
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/.../IMAG02691.jpg
Old goldfish brain here got distracted again, while I was fannying around fitting the new exhaust studs into the head I had a look inside the headers... and noticed that the inside of the header pipes had some 'clag' (for want of a better word) inside. The headers weren't genuine Mr Turbo ones, as they didn't fit due to the fact that the GPz engine sits further back in the Z650 frame than it did in the 1100 frame, so I had Mickey Burke at Eyeball Engineering in Tamworth make me some new headers (and up-pipe) to suit...
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/.../IMAG02641.jpg
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/.../IMAG02631.jpg
Time to get the Dremel out...
Fun fiddly work.
A lot of action in the shed of dread mate! ...on a roll?
I reckon a Rg500 calliper hanger is what you want, 210mm, should fit the sv calliper..
Si - it's about as much of a roll as I ever manage... ;-)
Gammaboy - thanks for the heads-up, I've had a look at a couple of RG hangers, and while they look like they could be made to work they have got a steel and rubber sleeve for the spindle, which could be an issue. I might just get one to see whjat bore the hole is if the sleeve is pressed out...
Meanwhile, the cheapo Aldi-bought Dremel copy got some action...
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/.../IMAG02841.jpg although this does mean that I'll now have to check out the welds on the inside of the up-pipe joining headers to turbo as well now. The amount of difference it'll make, performance wise, is totally negligible, but it makes me happy doing it...
no one would know its there other than you......and that is why it must go lol
Hey mate, measured one up that I've got here, didn't even notice the rubber bush! Anyway, 32mm if you press the rubber out, I'd just press it and knock up a top hat spacer to suit if it was me...
As it happens, as I was lying awake at about 2am this morning, I realised that pressing out the rubber bushing and using a top hat spacer would not only suit the 25mm spindle but meant that I could get the spacing sorted without extra loose spacers... Game on! Thanks GB!
I pulled out the standard battery box to see how much room I was going to have to fit a new (larger) battery.
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/.../IMAG02711.jpg
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/.../IMAG02721.jpg
And then went for a wander around t'interweb to see what kind of battery would suit my needs. I wanted a bigger battery as the standard acid battery (as per the original Z650) wasn't really man enough for the 1100 engine when I ran it before, it'd kick back on the starter, so I wanted something that not only had the potential to spin the starter a bit faster, for a bit longer, but also one that would have no issues with continually running the oil pump I'm going to use to lubricate the turbo. And that oil pump was (temporarily) mounted here...
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/.../IMAG02791.jpg
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/.../IMAG02811.jpg
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/.../IMAG02801.jpg
Although I'm starting to think twice about it sitting there, given that I have to fit the oil tank somewhere as well, in a place that the turbo oil can drain into it efficiently...
Shit; you should be able to find a good modern battery that will punch out a kick that will fit in that cavern easily!
This is what I connect my gonads up to. Groovy name too :)
http://shop.antigravitybatteries.com...g1201/#reviews
Hint to fix the kick back, wire the starter so that you can spin it with the kill switch off - hit starter so it's spinning, once spinning hit kill so it has spark...
GB - was actually planning on doing the wiring so it could be span over with no spark, as I like the idea of checking for oil pressure before it fires and goes straight up to 2k rpm...
I'd had a look at various battery sizes on line and, having chosen one with a nice fat output, decided to mock up a cardboard version to see if it's fit. Although it didn't go according to plan at the first attempt...
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/.../IMAG02751.jpg
Fortunately, the second one was a bit better, so I could see how well it would fit, firstly longitudinally...
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/.../IMAG02781.jpg
Which, quite clearly, wasn't going to work, so I tried it crossways...
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/.../IMAG02771.jpg
Which is better, but it's clear that it could only go so far forward between the frame rails, and that the plastic mudguard (one of the few original Z650 parts) would have to be altered.
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/.../IMAG02761.jpg
I do like the first attempt, reminds me of a few of mine.
I managed to get a second-hand Dyna 2000 (from a helpful chap on the Z1 Owners Club forum), so that's been stashed somewhere safe while I carry on with the battery box.
The battery turned out to actually be pretty close to the cardboard dummy that made, which was surely luck and/or coincidence more than my accuracy with cardboard. As that first effort kind of shows... Ahem.
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/.../IMAG03071.jpg
So after some judicious measuring of the frame area and the original steel battery box, I chopped up some more cardboard and made a faux battery box before I started cutting aluminium. as the new battery is wider (and taller) than the original, it's going to have to sit further back in the frame so, as I want to use the standard battery box mounting points, there was going to have to be a certain amount of offset in the box. which is why the cardboard one is too big from front to rear.
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/.../IMAG03261.jpg
And sliding the carboard battery box between the frame rails shows that some of the plastic rear mudguard / undertray thingy is going to have to be cut out to allow it to fit.
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/.../IMAG03271.jpg
Now to go and cut some 3mm aluminium...
Got plenty of clearance in front of the rear wheel for the box to protrude?
Yes Si, plenty of room. The Martek swinging arm is slightly longer than standard and, even with the wheel as far forward as it can go there's loads of clearance. The pic is probably a bit deceiving, I'll post another later that shows how much room there actually is.
Ally cut to size / shape and put in the el cheapo folder thaat I had stashed under the bench...
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/.../IMAG03281.jpg
And tried for size in the frame. Quite clear that the rear mudguard needs to be relieved...
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/.../IMAG03291.jpg
So it was marked up thus
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/.../IMAG03301.jpg
And with the help of Charlie Dog, my faithful workshop companion...
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/.../IMAG03341.jpg
... had a chuffin great hole hacked in it, using my Dremel-a-like and rotary saw blade.
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/.../IMAG03351.jpg
Although the saw did take a liking to a finger too. It's tasted blood now...
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/.../IMAG03371.jpg
And a trial fit showed that a bit more had to come out.
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/.../IMAG03361.jpg
now you know your having fun when blood comes out , looking good so far , I have one of the moto batts in the vfr well over 3 years old and still going strong
I tacked a couple of pieces of ally plate to the front and back of the bent piece, with the back being bigger so as to hopefully cover the battery from any crap thrown up by the back wheel and going through the new hole in the undertray thingy... I'll add another piece at some point to hold the battery in place, although as it's going to be close to the underside of the seat, it'll not being going anywhere. I hope.
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/.../IMAG03591.jpg
And then I welded up the joins. It's not very pretty, but better than my last attempts with the TIG. I'm using a foot pedal now, and I think that's helping.
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/.../IMAG03621.jpg
Shed built cool; good work mate.
Cut cut grind grind.... I thought the red stuff is surposed to
stay on the inside....
As for ally tig, y is it I can weld everything
beautiful and yet struggle with fucking ally lol feeling yr pain
Ozzy - my ally welding is better than my MIG welding, which kind of tells you just how crap I am with a MIG...
So, battery box welded up with brackets added to hold the Mosfet all-singing regulator/rectifier, and the Dyna 200 unit (which will be held on with rubber straps / o-rings against a vibe-absorbing rubber pad), and ready to be slid into the frame once more...
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/.../IMAG03661.jpg
Buggeration. I'd measured up for the brakcet for the reg/rec, locating it neatly behind the right hand side panel. Completely forgetting that if I made the battery box any wider it'd not fit between the frame rails.
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/.../IMAG03651.jpg
What a prize prick! Hey-ho, back to the grinder again to chop off the offending bracket. The reg/rec will have to be located somewhere else, probably hanging below the battery box yet still on the right hand side.