If it gives trouble you could keep reducing the restrictor size, If your your oil pressureis 50 psi or better 1mm should be safe
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If it gives trouble you could keep reducing the restrictor size, If your your oil pressureis 50 psi or better 1mm should be safe
Check valve after the pump on the oil return? Or is there a check in the pump?
Keep an eye on water temp aswell. Never seen anyone actually use the water cooling on a turbo bike
I tried water cooling several yrs ago, all good most of the time... but... if you pushing hard then slow down, like into town, and low engine rpm don't circulate the water fast enough you will get localised boiling at the turbo, pushing water out of your radiator , potentially then causing overheating issues..
Will it run OK with out it water hooked up, just figured it was avalible why not use it but if it is going to cause issue then I can go without
After stuffing around with Pav in the shed today making up a heat shield and bits and pieces took it for a little ride in the rain [:o)] .Boost came on at about 5-6000 RPM :D[:p]:D needs fueling sorted bad ( gotta figure that out[B)] gotta get smarter in a hurry ) and I now have oil in my everywhere so will need to look at that either turbo seals or return pump not pumping enough or both or all fucked if I know [B)]:([?] will be next weeks problem for now
Jeez you don't fuck around do ya mate good stuff
Trying not to fuck around any morewantneed it back on the road
The bike would rev free until the boost started to climb then started to miss/starve for fuel and would not rev over 6000 rpmish.
Just doing some of my best thinking and figured I may need to move the the boost ref line for the fuel regulator currently its on the manifold under the carby. Thinking it may do better on the 'T' into the float bowl ref line . Anyone havean opinionany helpful advice on the matter
Gunna rebuild the turbo next week but will run some tests on the return pump and the flow rate required over the next couple of days
vids!!!
it was a nice smoke show after running for a while
You need your boost reference for bowl and reg from the same point, preferrably in the up pipe pointing toward the incoming air , so the pressure in the bowl and fuel pressure are always a few % above manifold pressure , then your 95 main jet will act as a 100 jet on moderate boost and 105 on high boost which is exactly what you need for matching the jetting with air density and flow , a well setup system can actually need a slightly smaller main jet to run perfect
all this only works if the system is well sealed, you may have to pressure test your inlet system
Easily done by capping the turbo inlet and putting an fitting to add regulated air at about 10 psi
you can then test your fuel pressure rise , (it will only match the pressure without dynamic airflow) and test for leaks
ignor the air passing through the turbo drain
Sweet thats what I was thinking. Had it in the wrong placeQuote:
quote:Originally posted by Booster
You need your boost reference for bowl and reg from the same point, preferrably in the up pipe pointing toward the incoming air , so the pressure in the bowl and fuel pressure are always a few % above manifold pressure , then your 95 main jet will act as a 100 jet on moderate boost and 105 on high boost which is exactly what you need for matching the jetting with air density and flow , a well setup system can actually need a slightly smaller main jet to run perfect
all this only works if the system is well sealed, you may have to pressure test your inlet system
Easily done by capping the turbo inlet and putting an fitting to add regulated air at about 10 psi
you can then test your fuel pressure rise , (it will only match the pressure without dynamic airflow) and test for leaks
ignor the air passing through the turbo drain
http://pic70.picturetrail.com/VOL183.../397077541.jpg
Will move it to the small pipe across the throat that goes to the float bowls hope that will solve one issue.
Gunna start putting together another plenum shortly slightly different shape with a new base plate to help it seal. Or maybe just a new base plate will see as it goes on
what size hole in the small pipe, that system should work ok, maybe just need larger hole or moved further from plenum
7mm ID pipe cut out like VVVV
http://pic70.picturetrail.com/VOL183.../397261650.jpg
Will move the ref hose for the reg to this pipe friday night.
Gunna clean up the oil see if i can turn the centre to get the drain more vertical ( think it maybe part of the problem?) make up a new drain pipe and fittings and see what happens Saturday :D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D[8D]
i run the same scavange pump on mine and works fine. 3 yrs so far. i had the oil everywhere issue aswell. i put a restrictor in the oil feed line and it solved all my probs. basically the zx7 has heaps of oil pressure and i was over oiling the turbo. it would pass the seals then go everywhere.
also i noticed your turbo is below your sump level. you'll probably have to put a one-way valve in your oil feed line otherwise it will flood the turbo with oil when your parked. i had all the same probs when i first turbo'd my zxr.
What size did you go down to I am at 1mm now at the fitting going into the turbo I was thinking of trying a .6 or .8 mm but think it maybe to small
Going to have the oil feed line above the oil line when I rotate the houseing to stop gravity feed wehn not running,its OK now when on the side stand just on the race stand it seems to be a issue
I have 3 pitot pipes in the up pipe, 1 goes to the fuel reg and the other 2 go to the carby's. Each feeds 2 carby's.
I've also got the pitot's mounted at 45° facing into the air and slash cut at 45°.
I tried a pitot just like what you have and it didn't work for me. With the setup like yours it wouldn't rev and leaned out as the boost come on.
Not to say it won't work it just didn't for me, plenty of people on OSS have done it this way and it worked.
I think you should rotate the bearing housing of the turbo so the oil goes striaght in the top and drains out the very bottom. If the drain is not at the bottom there will always be oil inside and in can get past the seals.
I'll have to have a look and get back to you. can't remember.Quote:
quote:Originally posted by yella
What size did you go down to I am at 1mm now at the fitting going into the turbo I was thinking of trying a .6 or .8 mm but think it maybe to small
Been fucking busy with work gotta hate stocktakes. Finally got an hour to look over the bike pulled the turbo off. Checked it over and found a big fuck off chunk of carbon blocking the oil return fitting must have been sitting in the housing and come on with the additional heat/oil. Sweet at least I found a fault go to love a result. Gunna spin the turbo a little and change the place the oil feed comes from etc and will have it out for another test Saturday.
Good luck for saturday mate. Hope the test ride goes well
Well I got it all back together and figured it should start sweet and burn off the extra oil laying around and I can take it for a run WRONG :([V]:(
I notice when I rode into the shed last time that it stalled out and I did hit the starter but it didn't fire back up but I was more worried about the oil then.
Anyway after check everything including spark with a test plug, then thinking maybe I have fucked a ring or 2 ( but I would have to be the unluckiest person on earth)then checking everything again I pulled the plugs and check them and they are arcing onto the insulator (WTF) or at best across to the thread not the ground electrode. New NGK spark plugs about 20k's old but failed :(:(:(
Try to find some tomorrow what Plug do you guy's recommend ??
NGK CR9E. whenever you over oil the system it'll foul the plugs. when i first set mine up it happened to me more times than i can remember. you can use CR9EK's (double electrode) but they're more expensive and chances are you'll foul a few sets before you get it right.
Thanks
Had the CR9E in will grab some more tomorrow and ebay myself a box or 2 next week ;)
Pav was saying that he read you spaced / aligned your plugs so that the spark was protected from the incoming air/fuel. Was that any help ?
it did seem to help the problem but it didn't stop it all together. it is a fair bit of fuckin around though. the main problem was probably the oil fouling the plugs. it used to get blown through my intercooler and would take forever to clear. i don't know if you saw the pics of my bike, but it has an oil cooler under the turbo. it serves 2 purposes, cool the oil and act like a sump so the oil can easily drain from the turbo.
Did check that out earlier. I was thinking of fitting something like this to cool the oil
http://www.prchotrod.com/media-cente...oil_cooler.jpg
Just gotta track down the correct size
Over rich and oil contamination will quickly make a carbon track and cause misfire
just as easily as too lean will burn aluminium , and if you ride it on boost to the point of a lean miss this can happen very quickly .
be prepared to replace plugs often while your sorting it out , std type plugs or the twin ground strap type , but don't waste your time with iridium , they just cost more and don't last any longer in this circumstance .
New plugs and it runs. I have noticed that the fuel pressure spikes upto 10psi when the boost comes on (hard to watch and ride at the same time)gunna put a restrictor in the ref line to try and take out any pulses see if that helps. anyone got any idea's?
Forgot oil seems OK for now did a couple of runs and no smoke or oiling up :)
Is it a rising rate fuel pressure reg? If it is, the pressure is meant to rise with boost.
1:1 but it seems over the top at 1 psi boost fuel spiked upto 10psi fuel then dropped to 5 then to 8 etc just seems all over the place like it was seeing pulses dunno. Will try again shortly
What reg have you used? Have you got some sort of way of telling what your afr is while doing these tests?
http://www.jegs.com/images/photos/02713301.jpg
Aeromotive 13301 - Universal Bypass Regulator
No AFR mter as yet hope to get it soon.
Did a comp test and was getting some strange readings 3 below what it should be and one a 1/4 down on those again so dropped out the motor and striped it down. Was going to happen anyway at some stage so may aswell be now. No major failure couple of good marks in the bore and by the looks of it some monkey has had it apart previously broken 1 of the rocker bolts and other tell tale signs.
Going to google options now for rebuild kits and the like. Should I look at turbo pistons or standard with a base plate?
Is that a Efi reg or low pressure. Might have issues controlling such a low pressure
fuck you work fast. plugs in, test ride,compression test, engine out, strip down and all in one day. you'll probably wind out the day with a shit, shower and shave and then even hit the mrs up for a quicky.:D
Deano those regs come with 2 springs , efi and carb ,
Where are you taking the pressure signal for the reg from ?
Depends on the quality of your pistons, on my gsxr 750 i get std pistons HPC coated and use a 2mm spacer and there lasting well to 30 psi. on a streetbikerunning to 10 psi i would probably just stick to a 1mm spacer .
i had stock pistons with 2mm spacer on the zxr. it ran 18psi boost. the gearbox failed before the pistons. on my zx9B motor i have the HPC ceramic coating on the crown and teflon on the skirts. it seems to be runnig fine.
I am thinking standard with 1.5mm spacer. What was it like with a 2mm spacer off boost.
As Booster said dual pressure I have the low pressure spring in.
I have the ref line 'T' into the small pipe across the throat of the plenumm intake.
Ok what about wastegate pressure reference ? and what sort of wastegate (probably pictured and referred to somewhere )
You can add to a 1mm spacer with std basegaskets, the 2mm on mine realy kills the bottom end , and with the big turbo and hi gearing i mean KILLS...
this vid is with 1mm spacer when i was running methanol , just to get an idea http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bRNWt_yGTAI
Who make up your spacers? What material is best?
Wastegate comes from the snail and is standard factory built in to the turbo