mine was a dry shot airbox kit to suit a harley lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Weaselman
Printable View
mine was a dry shot airbox kit to suit a harley lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Weaselman
NX express do a dryshot airbox kit to suit 4Cy F.I. bikes pretty cheap. 20hp at the wheel with no secondary fueling. But they wont go any higher than 20hp without extra fueling.
I've just purchased a wet system off this guy Morrie at Horsepower in a Box in S.A. http://www.holley.com/03008NOS.asp the system is a Holley but I'm using ECU Editor to control so won't need a lot of the microswitches and stuff.Quote:
Originally Posted by Weaselman
I eventually went to a local guy as I had been burnt with Orient Express on an Exhaust System I purchased for the gixxer and although they were sympathetic to my cause nothing could reaLLY BE DONE WITHOUT A SHITLOAD OF FREIGHT COSTS SO i THOUGHT i'D (OOPS) go local, seemed an OK guy , time will tell.
paid around a grand for the kit!
I've used that system. Very happy with it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hagarr
Its probably what i'll get again.
Only drama's I had was on my kit the original lines that came
with it were small bore plastic. Worked great when new but over
time and a lot of use the Nitrous turned the lines brittle. Had
it happen a couple of times. I just re-did them with new but I've
seen other use braided lines.
Great kit, everything you need and good instructions.
Only thing I did different was as I was going to thread the foggers
straight into the Bandit inlet rubbers (they are quite thick) I made
some wooden plugs to go inside them and pre-drilled them. Threading
the foggers into a rubber manifold isnt ideal but it worked fine.
Good purchase there Hagarr.
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/power_...tails.php?id=2
20hp kit. Good starting point for a bit less than $450 with the current exchange rate
Going in dry wont do your girl any good without a little more liquid mate, even "only" 20 hp will lean the old girl out more than you will like (even when the cool nos is dropping intake temps and puters richen things to compensate) . Do it right and Nos is the king of cheap HP do it wrong and a hole in a piston (ring lands copping a hammering etc) makes for an unhappy Weasel .
A dry system can be modded into a cheap wet system by adding a plumbed in extra injector fed off the main fuel line switched in with the nos , a in line fuel pressure reg can be used to drop supply pressure to it to balance out mixture. If you want a little more fancy a separate pulse circuit to drive the injector is easy (I can smash you one out for about $15 in bits) has a 10 turn pot on it you just twist till you get the fuel you want.
Easy hide system would be an extra injector fed from current fuel rail, pulsed by separate circuit with nos pumped over outlet of fuel to improve atomisation into airbox forward of air cleaner. And offers the option of variable power with a simple tune.
http://www.noswizard.com/index.php/b...s-kit-868.html
Hows that look to you Red?
thats the kit you want mate
4 cylinder wet kit,
but no mention of a fuel pump or gravity feed
or whether its to suit carb'd or injected models ?
I take it if your putting it on an injected bike you'd
t-into the preasurised feed, but what if you were
sticking on something more Old Skool ?
Surely gravity feed fuel isnt going to match 800psi nitrous ?
EDIT: I wonder if the "Pulsoid"s in the kit work as
some sort of pump / regulator as well as being a solenoid ?
That kit is ment to piggyback its fuel feed off the fuel pump. Its ment for injected bikes. Im in contact with the company and they are advising me what the best kit is for my application.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony Nitrous
Watch this space.
P.S. Wizards of NOS got back to me within the arvo which is good for a company in England.
Blue highlight Your trying to add power by increasing oxygen through Nos injection so why would you want to dilute the shit your shoving in there in the first place ?Quote:
Originally Posted by Weaselman
Answer you DONT but it will assist in mixing it with the air (pre indevidual cyl) to give a better mix to ALL cyl is a good idea, and reduce intake air temp as your shoving the nos into the airbox tricking puter into slightly enritching fuel mix potentialy stopping engine lean condition. (better to switch a resistor into the circuit on your air intake sensor when NOS is turned on More effective and predictable)
Red highlight , Maybe but I really doubt it (def easyer to fit) and might be better than a dry direct port system without added fuel but compared to a wet direct port injection runner system its dog shit even at less than 50 hp.
To be honast mate I'd avoid a air box setup all together and same with a dry unit , I'd go wet direct port system.
But your after easy cheap simple and hidden to boot. So a dry airbox system with at the minimum a switched resistor on your intake air temp sensor to help richen the mix (cheap n effective) But stay below any more than 20 hp gain and check your plugs often for signs of detonation/lean burn mate. The units are all pritty much the same its just a bottle solinoid and injector with something to meter the nos (usally a jet like a main jet in a carb)
Ignore anything you get in a kit that sez bolt on and ride , Hunt down a wide band oxy sensor (yella is up your way and might be able to assist with something maybe) or stick it on a dyno and do a power run without and then with to make sure its not leaning out to much. Nos is the best thing this side of a full service blow job for an instant smile but just like that blow job there are big teath right next to all that fun if she turns on you.
I turned a 500 2 smoker into a ball of molten ali in 5 sec, on a power run sideways at the speedway when the fuel pump for the Nos system cavitated (pickup on wrong side of tank and fuel low) 80 hp of nos with no extra fuel and 5 sec later lockup big mess. Did lift the front well there for a bit though lol Now I really miss the titan motor .
I think they mean it softens the inital blow and comes in softer ?Quote:
Originally Posted by Redmohawk
I had a bike that could take a progressive 50 hit but the clutch
would let go if fed it fast and hard. I think he's saying feeding
it into the airbox works like a poor mans progressive system ?
I used to arm the system, but leave the bottle turned off, get
it a run and hit the button, should chuck in enough fuel to try
and flood the motor. Give it a run to clear it out, then turn on
the gas. At least i knew I was getting fuel and less likely to get
a melt down.
Buy some digi kitchen scales. I found weighing the bottle a lot
better than trying to guess how much is in there. Mine are flat
and fit in a jacket or rucksack.
Dont trust anyone using PTFE/Plumbers tape to seal their gear.
I had drama's untill I found my nos filter blocked from the guy
doing my refills and the drags.
Redmohawk, if you get a few minutes spare,
i'd be interested to hear you opinion on some of this info
on budget / DIY / custom build set up's....
http://www.nitrous.info/nitrous-kit-information.htm
Yeah good tip PTFE will go to shit with nos and make a crappy mess.
And your spot on tony , after re reading that . Poor mans progressive is prob a good way to discribe it.
I doubt a 20 hit will make your clutch slip but it will void any factory warrenty lol
Tony, Burgerman is a crazy fucker ! He was my first real intro into a good Nos system, the first was a NOS brand 4 barrel bolt down plate with 75hp jets on a 253 powered HQ wagon. His home made stuff was how I learnt to make my first system and avoid paying through the nose for pritty basic stuff.
I'd really love to get into some proper progesive stuff one day (not the crap people are flogging atm) , using 2 sets of injectors one efi for fuel and another very high pressure unit for liquid N2 (liquid lpg injectors would prob do fine at higher Nos pressures, I played with liquid lpg injection using petrol injectors about 10 years back and they were ok) Infinitly variable from say 4 hp to what ever rings your bell. Computer controlled you could soft start and ramp up gentle in the lower gears and when your up a bit and less prone to lifting the front or breaking into nuts wheelspin increase the ramp rate. A stock 1100 gsxr motor would be a real weapon with a controllable 300hp at the back wheel when you want it on the strip !
I just bought a set of valves off ebay that are not the same as what he uses ,are similar but brass and I was going to do a little play time in a few weeks when they arive. I'll post up the results if they turn out ok. Will involve shiming down the port just as he does with soldered in brass tube the seals are the correct type already so wont need changing. Hoping they will be ok for about 40hp each (want a pair for 80hp into a 400cc 2 stroke twin I have a fun project for) Only issue might be the valves I bought only come in 12 volt and he uses 6 volt coils run at 12 volt to increase lift force , I'm going for a smaller port dia so should not be such an issue (same pressure less area = easyer to lift seal)
His ideas on jetting and they're position have merrit , The first system I built from scratch used his his valve design (bought them years ago I got 20 sent over at $14 aus each at the time) But have well run out about 5 years back hence trying the brass units now. I have always used Nylon air hose for both high and lower pressure side without issue , though I don't recomend it on a road going car/bike. (not ment for high pressure at 1500 psi)