Yes yes they do
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Yes yes they do
the turbo busa here has a nice lock up clutch on it ......... just saying
I would love it but Sadly I would have to sell both my bikes to afford it at the moment, not saying I wouldn't but I need to find 2 people that want to buy first
he might have a buyer for it and it is only a smelly suzi......
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So looks like I found something this time frictions hitting on the inner hub WTF. Time to look further
Hey Yella. What did you end up doing to soften your clutch? I took the gixxer out on the weekend to do some practice launches and holy shit, the clutch is harsh. Not sure how i'm going to get it off the line when racing.
I put the stock 03 judder spring in and made sure it has heaps of oil. I know the 04 GSXR they use the judder plate from the 05 ZX10 not sure if it's the same
Attachment 4553
So I have a LCD100 and multi function hub coming my way now :). Will pick up a wide band 2 and a 2 dial progressive nitrous controller and I should have all the electronic bits out the way. forgot I need a timing retarder. Then I need to get bottles, brackets, solenoid, hose and Im good to go. I also want a heater and switch so I can keep the bottle at temp and maybe a pressure regulator to keep a constant pressure for the full run. So many things .
Once I have the wide band 2 I will swap out the pc3r for the pc3usb and start to tune the map so whne I get the rest of the bits its just a matter of upping the fuel and setting the % of throttle to activate and Im away,
You might want to look at a nitrogen push system instead of a heater and reg setup. It uses nitrogen bottle to maintail pressure on Nos contents , no need for heater and reg as nitrogen has a reg on it to maintain nos at pressure. If its a hot day just vent a little NOS off the bottle before the run and its at constant pressure for the run.
Means you get alot more pressure towards the end of the bottle (more important on bikes with small bottles) Is a relitivly easy DIY setup to. Basicly your feeding high pressure nitrogen vapor into the top of bottle to push Nos so constant pressure is maintained. Bottle heaters only work at the start of a run , as nos is depleted bottle temp plummets along with pressure. Messing with oxy/fuel mix at the top end of your run.
yeh that's why I was looking at running reg on the outlet and pulling the feed pressure down to 750psi. So I can run bottle pressure at 900-1000 and the solenoid will see a stable 750 for the whole run. I can tune easy enough to the lower pressure with slightly larger NOS jet but it will keep the A/F close to perfect the complete run
You might find the Nos turns to gas in the reg and you end up with a NOS froff instead of just liquid (hard to meter) But good luck.
Im hopping having the jet after the reg will offer enough restriction to stop it from happening. MAYBE?
Sorry to say I doubt it, reg works like a venturi when liquid flows through it. Even with the correct pressure on the outlet side to maintain Nos in a liquid state the venturi effect along with the pressure reduction will most likely cause bubbles of gas to form , making it harder to meter.
Vapor pressure of Nos is about 900 psi @ 20 deg c so regulating it below 900 will cause gas bubbles for sure. Pro systems even use large bore solenoids (expesive) to avoid bubbles on big 250hp and above systems, for the same reasons.
You want minimum flow restriction and no change in bore size including line and bottle valve to the solenoid, the regulator orifice as close to the solenoid as possable. After the reg pill you can run what you like to your injector as long as it can handle the pressure/temp etc. Even high pressure plastic air tubing works fine after the metering orifice.
Nos branded systems that have the orifices at the injector block tend to suffer from gas bubbles when the solenoid is longer than 6 inches from the orifices.
As you know plenty of systems are setup cheap and easy, but also plenty of systems give unreliable results. Your after a consistant dependable adjustable system, the Nitrogen system isnt overly complicated and works well. Does have the downfall of having a bottle on nitrogen on board but thats about the only issue (and is expensive if you buy off the shelf) . Keeps your pressure constant not only from run to run but the whole way down a pass. What you set it at is how it stays, irellivant of amount of gas in the system or metering size.
MMMM, I have some more reading to do
Also stay away from braided lines, the extra weight in the braided lines increases the amount of potential heat input to the Nitrous increasing its temp and decreasing the boil pressure. Lightest tube you can run that will handle the pressure is the go, I've used standard high pressure nylon air line for both sides in the past without failure (its rated to 2500 psi but only at 20 deg c , its lowest temp rating is -20 deg)
I'm making a Nos solenoid this week I'll post the photos up on Fb
sweet im looking at options on solenoids now
Geez Yella, your getting serious now. Good work. Be interesting to see your time with the gas on.
Will be interesting to see the 1/8 times this weekend at Gunnedah now the clutch is sorted once and for all ( I hope). I took it out and did 8 or so hard launches 6-7+rpm and it was sweet normally it crapped out after 2 should be good
what did you end up doing to the crutch ?
I picked up a complete clutch from Kev it looked the same as the old with the springs loose in the back so I wasn't convinced it would make a change but was going to chuck that in anyway to test. After the first test runs with the old basket I had a chance to pulled it down while it was hot found the clutch plates nice and wet ( SO I was happy) but noticed that the basket was jamming up not returning to centre when it cooled I was free again. Fitted the other basket and so far so good