Just curious, has anyone ever taken a bit of spare material off they're stock rims?
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Just curious, has anyone ever taken a bit of spare material off they're stock rims?
Is there "spare" material on stock rims? Or are they made that way for complience reasons?
You will void "DOT" and "TUV" compliance if you mess with the stock rims. In an accident the law will rip you a new one. (void your 3rd party and any other insurance covering you) Costs alot for TUV testing for a one off rim. Just buy what your looking for , much cheaper n leagalish.
I do know of people in the US doing it to the same rims. But they're american so yeah.Quote:
Originally Posted by Iceman
The other thing is other people using a similar rim off the ZX636 which weighs considerably less, but then there's a 50kg+ weight difference between the bikes, so wouldn't that be a similar issue? Possible cracking etc.
I originally wanted to use zx14 rims but they weigh more than zrx.
Yeah I know it's not very legal, but what is?Quote:
Originally Posted by Redmohawk
The thing is as far as zxr go the 6 has the lightest rims followed by the 10 and then the 14, I'm just assuming there's a reason for this, more weight and power needing more strength = more weight in the rim (cos lets face oem is budget) and I have mentioned this over on zrxoa but they seem a bit less safety concerned.
I don't think I'd bother with going forged or carbon on the ZRX.
So I guess I shouldn't have taken the angle grinder to the rims...
Not much we do wont void everything.Quote:
Originally Posted by Redmohawk
But im not keen on messin with the stock rims but i did on a some car rims once. got a machine shop to take as much as the would off the bolt face, he took 15% off because he said that most things are 20% stronger then they need to be and that them rims were on 1000hp cars and they dont brake so they should be good on my 400horse EH. Never had issues on it but i think bike rims are made a little closer to the limit if ya know what i mean.
Did that make sense, this JD honey is good shit :)
Yeah it makes sense, never tried the jd honey, don't think I've even seen it.
I have mix feelings on this.
#1... Most stuff is over engineered, for strength, reliability and to last.
#2... Sporty stuff is going the other way recently. To keep the weight
down they are using thinner and lighter (and less) material. One local
rider on a modern sporty bike hit a pot hole on Neurum Rd and the front
wheel folded up, bike end over end, written off.
would you like the feeling of not knowing if the wheels you had machined up were going to fail sending you sailing up the road on your arse ,fuck that ,i like to know my rims will be there when i need them to be.
I've been involved with a TUV testing agency a bit of late , Trying to get a rim approved for road use as cheap as possable (still looking at about $7000 in testing costs)
Spun cast rims will be stronger than old style cast rims (factorys use this to save some weight) forged even stronger again , Mag ali lighter again.
A rim with a given amount of volume material from cast to spun cast will have weight very similar but the spun cast has a better crystaline structure and less chance of a undetected void alowing the rim to be thiner (lighter) with a similar impact/vibration/fatigue resistance.
Using a lighter material like Mag ali in a spun cast rim improves this by another factor but the Mag ali is stiffer, with less weight being the benifit but the negitive is they're more prone to fatigue. And when they fail its often "It looked fine then massive fail" Hence race rims are watched/turned over often (compared to street rims)
Taking weight off a stock rim by machining will produce a rim more like a race rim , in that it will be fine for a while then it will fatigue very quickly. No cracks/bends etc then OH SHIT WHAT HAPPENED !
I'd be looking at another rim for weight reduction, not machine the one you have. Unless you did the work yourself on the wheel it would be cheaper to buy something lighter than pay to have it machined anyhow. Most machine shops will charge around $75 an hour prob take 3 or 4 hours , you could prob pick up something off a 400 (prob best option for rim width) or even a late model 250 for a $100 or so.
Bigger factory bikes have wide rims so weight increases , also the extra power reduces the perception of weight being an issue. Extra weight in the wheels can be a benifit to stock big bikes from a factory standpoint (more gyroscopic effect helping poor riders keep a powerful heavy bike upright at low speed)
That's got my name written all over it....;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Redmohawk
Tony do you know what kind of bike that was that folded?
Red, would you say it's safe using a 600 rim on a 1200?
I need a 5.5 or 6 rim.
Actually considering how much the front of the ZRX comes up maybe it's best left as is.
And now you're turning me off all the pretty after market rims for the 14, I don't wanna have to inspect them I just wanna ride.
If I wanted to spend all my time inspecting them I could of gotten a Ducccc I can't say it.
Not 100% sure. I'll chase it up.Quote:
Originally Posted by EVLZX
I know Donna hit a hole out that way on her 1078 MV.
http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/7669/10781q.jpg
http://img837.imageshack.us/img837/3065/10782.jpg
^^^^Fuck....that must've been some hole!!!
+1holy shitQuote:
Originally Posted by nick76
Look at the weight of the bike your taking it from then the bike your adding it to , dont forget to add 80kg to the wet weight of the donor bike (is it was designed to take a pillion as well as a rider). So if your bike is within 80kg of the donor 600 your 100% ok even with the cunt-sables in crash investigation.Quote:
Originally Posted by EVLZX
I would assume majority of "Quality" after market rims are stronger than factory rims (better materials mostly, but excludes particular rims on bikes aimed at racing markets) Most of my info has come from guys on the floor doing the testing.
Rim strength is one thing , the other thing you need to keep in mind especally with "Pot hole damage" is the tyre. Runing a lower profile tyre on a rim (than on its original fitment bike etc) Ie going from a 190/55 to a 190/45 increases the stiffness of the tyre side wall and reduces the gap between the road and rim.
I looked over some damaged car rims 19" and 20" that were caused by "simulated highway holes" 100mm deep by 200 mm square. Test wheel had a recomended fitment tyre inflated correctly run over hole at 110kph, tyre run over hole to one side of rim. Ended up with a buckle very similar to the bike photo. (rim passed test even though it failed and tyre went down instantly)
You must have great councils like down here, on my way home there's a couple spots I have to slow down like I'm going over speed humps with all the holes and ridges in the roadQuote:
Originally Posted by Tony Nitrous