UH OH SPAGHETTI OH! my exhaust manifold (pics)

gday folks

had a spare few hours to burn this arvo, so i dragged out my crappy old (20 years old and about to die) arc welder. found some old filler rods, and off i went, redesigning my turbo manifold.. progress pics below, i'll upload updates as i do em.

plan is to weld it up nice as i can with this crap arc welder, grind it all smooth then go round and tidy it up with the tig at work, then clean it up again, this way i get a 1 peice looking manifold once she's finished.

cheers.joe.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2.../manifold1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2.../manifold2.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2.../manifold3.jpg

That's look'n alright Joe, should come up quite nice once it's all smoothed over.

Been toy'n with the idea of turbo'n the little GS, so put up as many pics as you can. That way I'll have a bit of a guide of how to make a manifold, if the time ever comes that I need to do so.

That's look'n alright Joe, should come up quite nice once it's all smoothed over.

Been toy'n with the idea of turbo'n the little GS, so put up as many pics as you can. That way I'll have a bit of a guide of how to make a manifold, if the time ever comes that I need to do so.

ya can weld pipe that size with stick anyway..... we used ta use a firestick as a root run and then cap it with a low hyd ... comes out neat as and Xray spec

what rods ya usin???

ya can weld pipe that size with stick anyway..... we used ta use a firestick as a root run and then cap it with a low hyd ... comes out neat as and Xray spec

what rods ya usin???

thats heavy duty plumbing there Joe,matches that huge snail ya runnin.
Ice Ice baby,save your money and buy a real bike.;)

thats heavy duty plumbing there Joe,matches that huge snail ya runnin.
Ice Ice baby,save your money and buy a real bike.;)

Is it usual to use such heavy wall pipe to make turbo manifolds.

Is it usual to use such heavy wall pipe to make turbo manifolds.

No ... that's just probably what he had layin around.


Although it may have some positive benefits in keeping more heat in...

No ... that's just probably what he had layin around.


Although it may have some positive benefits in keeping more heat in...

ah didn't think so

ah didn't think so

hope your in for a fight iceman,

to get to the above was 5hrs work. granted if i was using my tig, i would have only taken 3.5hrs.

wasted about 6 bend section peices too, just cutting them either wrong with the grinder, or re-thinking where i want to go.

some tips:

*try and get all changes in direction either continous or as subtle as possible, your after gas speed here and keeping all runners as short as posible with as few bends as posible.

*use steam pipe sections found from blackwoods and onesteel or the like. come in short and long radius and only cost 4 bux or so each

*manifold design, whilst nasty does work, the smoother the joining of pipes into a collector the better, meaning the angle at which the pipes mean is very narrow, look at the front 2 pipes merging on my manifold, nice tight angle, minimal disturbence in the collector.

*a better and more clever way of building manifolds is to merge unfiring cylinders with firing ones BEFORE the main collector, once again, i refer to my own one, ports 2 and 3 never fire one after another, likewise for 1 and 4, so merging 1 and 4 as a pair creates no restriction in the next pipe that runs to a collector, as there is only ever one exhaust bang in the pipe at any given time, so what happens is, one fires, exhaust gas travels on its own to the main collector, 2 fires does the same, and is right behind exhaust gas from number 1, the others flow on from there, so in effect, you get a constant, high velocity gas pulse hitting the turbine, brings boost on earlier, yet still wont choke the engine up with too much back pressure.

i like to use 3mm thick wall steam pipe, cos it acts like a brilliant heat sink, keeping all the heat in the pipes which also helps gas speed. also theres a fair bit of thermal changes going on in the area, and a large heavy turbo swinging from the manifold as well, so the heavy guage tubing resist cracking better.

stevo, the rods im using are just a few i had laying round, they are stainless steel rods, bloody brilliant things they are to, nice and easy to get going, very consistant, my problem is, the bloody welder would cut out the very minute you'd get a nice weld happening! very frustrating.

cheers.joe.

hope your in for a fight iceman,

to get to the above was 5hrs work. granted if i was using my tig, i would have only taken 3.5hrs.

wasted about 6 bend section peices too, just cutting them either wrong with the grinder, or re-thinking where i want to go.

some tips:

*try and get all changes in direction either continous or as subtle as possible, your after gas speed here and keeping all runners as short as posible with as few bends as posible.

*use steam pipe sections found from blackwoods and onesteel or the like. come in short and long radius and only cost 4 bux or so each

*manifold design, whilst nasty does work, the smoother the joining of pipes into a collector the better, meaning the angle at which the pipes mean is very narrow, look at the front 2 pipes merging on my manifold, nice tight angle, minimal disturbence in the collector.

*a better and more clever way of building manifolds is to merge unfiring cylinders with firing ones BEFORE the main collector, once again, i refer to my own one, ports 2 and 3 never fire one after another, likewise for 1 and 4, so merging 1 and 4 as a pair creates no restriction in the next pipe that runs to a collector, as there is only ever one exhaust bang in the pipe at any given time, so what happens is, one fires, exhaust gas travels on its own to the main collector, 2 fires does the same, and is right behind exhaust gas from number 1, the others flow on from there, so in effect, you get a constant, high velocity gas pulse hitting the turbine, brings boost on earlier, yet still wont choke the engine up with too much back pressure.

i like to use 3mm thick wall steam pipe, cos it acts like a brilliant heat sink, keeping all the heat in the pipes which also helps gas speed. also theres a fair bit of thermal changes going on in the area, and a large heavy turbo swinging from the manifold as well, so the heavy guage tubing resist cracking better.

stevo, the rods im using are just a few i had laying round, they are stainless steel rods, bloody brilliant things they are to, nice and easy to get going, very consistant, my problem is, the bloody welder would cut out the very minute you'd get a nice weld happening! very frustrating.

cheers.joe.

Hate to tell you this after you have welded it BUT....Its upside down mate :D

Hate to tell you this after you have welded it BUT....Its upside down mate :D

ahh Stainless ..... yup yah can weld anything with them but thye like downhand ...


and yeah I know what it's like havin the welder drop out..


My little machine got to the stage it wouldn't burn a 2.5 LB52U low hyd ... and 'cos I've done so much site work with low hyd's I like 'em ....


but I have my flash 160 amp AC/DC HF TIG/ARC welder now :D ... mind you I had to sell a gixxer to buy it..

ahh Stainless ..... yup yah can weld anything with them but thye like downhand ...


and yeah I know what it's like havin the welder drop out..


My little machine got to the stage it wouldn't burn a 2.5 LB52U low hyd ... and 'cos I've done so much site work with low hyd's I like 'em ....


but I have my flash 160 amp AC/DC HF TIG/ARC welder now :D ... mind you I had to sell a gixxer to buy it..