Katman's Katana

[katman]

If you are running RS Flatside carbs on your katana, you are going to have to use a push pull throttle. If you do not, you will die. My fuel injection setup also uses a push pull throttle. The reason you need the pull aspect of the throttle is because vacuum will keep the slides wide open and you will have your hands full with a rocket stuck in go fast mode. I took a bike out once for a quick test/tune ride without the second cable connected... you guessed it, broken collar bone and wrecked bike.

Getting back to the build, you will need as I did, a narrow kill/start switch. The stock switch is built into the throttle but with the push pull you need an extra switch now so it has to be small or your throttle won't fit on the bar. There are a number of bikes that have these samll switches like, R1, triumph, SV650 and so on. Just have a look around fleebay for the one you like.

Next the switch needs to be wired for use with the katana. This is where my multimeter comes in handy. After locating which wires belong to the start button and run switch I made up a new plug to connect to my harness. These plugs are available from various vintage motorcycle connector shops. Eastern Beaver and Vintage connections are two companies I use. Here is a tip, start the bike before soldering and shrink tubing (if you are splicing) or crimping up the connector block. You see, you may get the starter to work with the start button but if you don't actually start the bike it may not run when you release the start button. This is due to the wrong wire being connected to the 12vdc live feed going to the switch.

Katanas only have three wires coming from the kill switch. One from the run, one from start button and the other two wires from those switches are connected in the switch so only three run to the harness. So, you have to get the 4 wires connected as three properly to gain proper function.

I am using an SV650 or 1000, not sure, right hand control. I like this control because it has a third function button on it. I will be using this switch as a head light on/off control. Running fuel injection is an amperage burden on a katana so I would like to have my head light off while starting. Also, it's just handy to be able to turn off the head light when you want to.

Here are some more pics of my left hand GSXR 1000 control. Another point I did not mention is that these controls have locating pins that keep the control from rotating on the handle bar. The stock katana control simply pinched the bar using friction to keep it in place. The new switches do not. All you need to do is locate it best you can on the bar, mark the locating pin position, then drill a hole a millimeter or two into the handle bar and you are done.

Oh yeh, there may be two other wires in there, they will be for the brake light. You may or may not wish to use those depending on your setup.

http://www.robwilton.com/gsr/katana_left_hand_control_101.jpg
http://www.robwilton.com/gsr/katana_left_hand_control_102.jpg
http://www.robwilton.com/gsr/katana_left_hand_control_103.jpg
http://www.robwilton.com/gsr/katana_right_hand_control_102.jpg
http://www.robwilton.com/gsr/katana_right_hand_control_101.jpg

[katman]

The new HEL brake lines came in. Steel braid with colored translucent cover and a new EK 140 link chain. The banjo bolts that came with the lines are stainless but I got some anodized aluminum ones. They shop I got them from does them themselves. Very nice, predrilled for safety wire.

http://www.robwilton.com/gsr/katana_brake_lines.jpg
http://www.robwilton.com/gsr/new_katana_530_chain.jpg

[Blade]

That anodising looks great, a nice touch!

[katman]

Back at it.....

I have fitted the plastic to the frame. The fairing required some adjusting to fit perfect with the tank and lower fairing pieces but now it fits just how I want it. Nice and tight. When I had fabricated the under seat pan I was using a rear katana seat cowl that did not have an eyebrow on it. Consequently, when I fitted the new tail plastic, the tail light was mounted too far inside the cowl. Fortunately I had left enough metal there so I could move it back an inch or so to fix the problem. The fairing also required some material removed from the inside as there was contact between the fairing and the GSXR 750 forks. All in all, easy procedure.

I have some more plastic and seat work to do. I am just adding my own touch to help it stand out from the other katanas.

http://www.robwilton.com/gsr/katana_seat_cowl_1.jpg
http://www.robwilton.com/gsr/katana_seat_cowl_2.jpg
http://www.robwilton.com/gsr/katana_seat_plastic_1.jpg
http://www.robwilton.com/gsr/katana_fairing_fitment_1.jpg

[katman]

All the plastic and the tank went to paint today. Should be back by the end of next week. This gives me time to build the engine and finish all the loose ends.
Started on the tach/speedo bezel today as well. Will have some pics tomorrow. I am thinking I will make a new billet disc to replace the plastic choke dial since it is not in use anymore with the fuel injection.
I cut away some of the plastic and the seat, pics to follow. Its always fun taking a grinder to your brand new plastic. I cut the front fender, lower fairing pieces and the tail section. Check back tomorrow for the pics of what I did to make this bike a little different from the pack.

[katman]

Ok, here are the pics of what I did with the plastic. I have to say, it's a little nerve racking to take a grinder to your brand new plastic. Especially when you don't have anymore on hand. As you can see, I have only made some minor changes but I think it will ad to the over all package. I have seen a few guys shorten the front fender and I really like the look so I did it too. The lower fairings and tail contours I have not seen before. I got the idea for the lower fairing pieces when I had one that was broken on the bottom, so I contoured it like you see so I could use the two on the bike. I liked the look.

The trail cut away gives the back end a loftier look without effecting trail and destablizing the bike at high speeds. The katanas by design are quite low in the back so I took the oportunity to cut into it since there is now a renewable supply of glass tails. I didn't have to worry about wrecking an original then having to try and find another one. This contour gives the bike the look of about an inch lift. The look doesn't look complete until I finish with paint and pin striping.

When I finish maching the replacement choke disc I will post pics of that too. Still working on the design.

http://www.robwilton.com/gsr/katana_seat_plastic.jpg

http://www.robwilton.com/gsr/katana_lower_fairing_2.jpg

http://www.robwilton.com/gsr/katana_lower_fairing_1.jpg

http://www.robwilton.com/gsr/katana_fender.jpg

[katman]

Today I did some wiring. I wanted to use leds for my warning lights so here is what I had to do.

First I had to add resistors to each led so they don't blow up as they can not handle 12vdc. I added one resistor to each light I was using. I am using an oil, high beam and one signal light indicator. My neutral light would be handled by my gear shift indicator that I will cover later. As you know, katanas do not have them stock and I was not going to buy a 150.00 gear indicator. Anywho, the next step is to decipher the wiring coming from the harness plug for the dash. OK, did that, now I have to reduce my stock left and right signal light indicator lights to one. How do you do that you ask, well, you need to get two diodes. A diode is a one way electrical device that looks like a resister. It only allows voltage to flow one way. You then solder the diodes to each end of the positive wires for your left and right signal. Since the diode only works one way make sure they are installed correctly. There will be a black band around one end of it, that is the direction it flows. In the picture below you can see how I did it. After that is done twist the to other ends of the diodes together with a wire and solder together. This will be your positive lead to the led lamp in your dash. Then connect the negative lead to the other side of your led and your done. Power will be sent to your light from each side of the switch. If you do not install diodes, all your flashers will work when you try to use the signal lights as voltage will flow to both left and right signals.

http://www.robwilton.com/gsr/katana_led_lights_d3.jpg
http://www.robwilton.com/gsr/katana_led_lights_d1.jpg
http://www.robwilton.com/gsr/katana_led_lights_d2.jpg

[katman]

Started on the tacho/speedo case today.
Last year I just cut a hole into a mounting plate and mounted the clocks but on this build I wanted something a little stylish so I went and got some 4 1/2" x 2" solid round aluminum. I had also mounted the led warning lights below the clocks which was not the best idea. With my full face helmet I could not see them unless I was looking down at the dash, so this time I am mounting them op top. Decided to incorporate them into the bezel itself. I will be using different colored leds as pictured. The three on top are OIL, HIGH BEAM, and a single SIGNAL indicator. Down and to the right will be my low fuel light and critically low fuel warning. For The OIL and critically low FUEL warning lights I am using blinking leds.
When I used this set of clocks last year I got caught in the rain a few times and was worried about the moisture as the back of the instruments are open. That is why I have enclosed it for this bike. I have yet to more a small hole into the back for the wiring and that will be siliconed up so no more worries.
To mount it to the bike I will be fabbing some plate aluminum for the unit to fit into and I will be mounting my new cheap gear indicator in the 3 o'clock position of the tach. I figure to machine a notch into the ring and fit it in like it was made for it. Wait, it is made for it. PIcs to follow.
To leave enough room under the clocks I had to figure out how to bolt the thing in. The threads on the back are short, so I had to make some loooooooong nuts. Worked like a charm.

http://www.robwilton.com/gsr/katana_speedo_a1.jpg
http://www.robwilton.com/gsr/katana_speedo_a3.jpg
http://www.robwilton.com/gsr/katana_speedo_a4.jpg
http://www.robwilton.com/gsr/katana_speedo_a5.jpg
http://www.robwilton.com/gsr/katana_speedo_a6.jpg

[katman]

Just about finished on my katana instruments. I just have to run the led wires and a couple others. Don't know what finish will be on them yet. Thinking powder, then some re-machining for some contrast. There is still some cleanup and finishing touches but she is basically done.
I ran hole through the back of the pod and installed a rubber gromet to protect the wires coming out and to inhibit moisture and dust from getting in. The leds I will be using will be the colored type. I used the super brights last time and that is not the way to go. I had to grind them flat to kill some of the brightness and they were still obnoxious. They will be set in with silicone to keep them in place and to keep moisture out in the off chance I get caught in some.
The gear indicator was tedious and took some time to make. But, for $6.00 I can't complain. I faced the gear indicator with plexi-glass. Counter sunk it and painted a frame around it on the inside surface. Don't need a neutral light now as there is a "N" on the gear indicator. Next job is the mounting plate and getting it onto the bike.

http://www.robwilton.com/gsr/digital_katana_speedometer.jpg
http://www.robwilton.com/gsr/katana_gear_indicator_a1.jpg
http://www.robwilton.com/gsr/katana_gear_indicator_a2.jpg
http://www.robwilton.com/gsr/katana_gear_indicator_a3.jpg
http://www.robwilton.com/gsr/katana_gear_indicator_a4.jpg
http://www.robwilton.com/gsr/katana_gear_indicator_a5.jpg

[crazymofo]

love your work!!

cheers.joe.

[xa-mont]

nice work man. that's a cool dash.

[Large]

What they ^ said.

[Fight_fan]

Hells yeah! Thats really nice man!

[katman]

Wow, this has turned into lots of work. Picked up a piece of aluminum for the speedometer, tachometer mount. I will be machining off some of the ignition mount on the top triple since I am using a digital keyless ignition. It is in the way. I have the speedo mount roughed out and the rubber mounts done. I will be adding a bracket for the Yosh multimeter, and locating the set button for the clocks as well as installing an incondescent bulb for the low fuel light.
There seems to be a real problem getting the thing to work with an LED as the thermistor needs a current draw to help heat it up to allow current to flow, whereby turning on the light. So, I will use the incondescent bulb top right in conjunction with a second LED for critical low. This will be a flashing LED wired in parallel with the incondescent. At least that is the plan. I figure the regular bulb will cause curent to flow when the second thermistor is exposed to air which will in turn, turn on the led.
That leaves me with one extra light around my speedo, which I will be using for a head light off indicator. Since I am using a common bosh style relay for the head light, I can use the "normally on" contact to illuminate an LED showing me my head light is currently off. I can see myself forgetting to turn the thing one all the time which the police around here won't like, being daytime running lights are the law.

http://www.robwilton.com/gsr/gsx_1100_speedometer_mount1.jpg
http://www.robwilton.com/gsr/gsx_1100_speedometer_mount2.jpg
http://www.robwilton.com/gsr/gsx_1100_speedometer_mount3.jpg

[xa-mont]

nice one man. i like it!

[katman]

Here is a diagram of how I installed my on/off headlight switch for my 1982 suzuki katana. This can be made to work on most bikes if you are familiar with your wiring.

I started with a standard Bosh style 5 terminal relay. Terminals 85 and 86 are for the coil of the relay. When power is applied to the coil it will make a connection between terminal 30 and 87. Power (12vdc) is brought to terminal 30 via a hot lead from the wiring harness. In this case an orange with red tracer. Without this relay on a stock katana the wire going to terminal 30 would be plugged directly into the wire connected to terminal 87. The relay is only acting as a switch between these two wires. In simple terms you could run each of these wires directly to a switch and that would turn your head light on or of. I am using a relay so I can utilize a light to tell me the head light is off.

The Bosh style 5 terminal relays have a normally closed terminal which is 87a. What this means is, the power going to terminal 30 is connected to terminal 87a until the relay is switched on by the power to the coil. This flips the relay to connect the terminals 30 and 87. When the power is switched off to the relay it switches back to reconnect terminals 30 and 87a. This is where the warning light comes in.

When I turn on the key, and my head light is off, the indicator light will come on because the relay is not switched on. After the bike is running I throw the head light switch on and that activates the relay turning off the indicator light and turning on my head light. I am also using a relay because my head light switch has 18 or 20 gauge wire and I am concerned it is not heavy enough to handle the current needed for the head light. I am using a switch that is incorporated into my right hand control.

http://www.robwilton.com/gsr/headlight_onoff.jpg

[rzman]

Awesome work mate,,i had a katana in the 90's gsxr front and rear and 100shot of noss hooked up to the horn button.

I cant wait to see it finished:)

[fimpBIKES]

My kat just has headlight switch from new, might be the different markets eh?

I really like those gauges, really professional

[katman]

A buddy of mine gave me a fuel lamp indicator the other day.It is just what I needed for my low fuel warning light. With the system I am using (sv650 thermistor style low fuel warning) I apprently need an incondescent bulb to work with the thermistors. They don't seem to work with just resistors and led lights. So, I am working on a plan to use the incondescent for low fuel and a flashing led for critical low as the sv650 has duel thermistors.
The light my buddy so graciously gave me, is just rubber and plastic so I fabbed a housing for it to fit on the instrument panel. I still have some final contouring to do on the panel but it is very close now. I am waiting for a couple colored leds so I can finally have it all mocked up and then, figure out paint, powder, polish????

http://www.robwilton.com/gsr/gsx1100_low_fuel_light.jpg
http://www.robwilton.com/gsr/gsx1100_low_fuel_light2.jpg

[fimpBIKES]

Would love to see pics of sv thermister if u have some
Was looking around for something for my kat a while back

[katman]

Had a great day today. Threw the engine together, that is almost. After getting everything sorted and gooped with case cement, and put together, guess what happened? On the final torque of the main case bolts one stripped out. So apart she comes again, drill, helicoil, re-goop, rebolt and success... Yeeehhhhh, or almost. Three of the 6mm bolts let go this time. INcluding one of the deeeeep pocket ones that goes in from the top of the cases. Apart she comes again.

[sen]

Looking good, that dash is awesome too!

[katman]

These clocks are turning into a career for me.There was not enough room in to pod for the led wires to clear past the tach/speedo body so I had to figure out something else. I wanted to do a lower ring anyway so I hid the wires behind it. Today was real nice so I went for a long ride up the coast to clear some cobwebs out of my melon. Then, came home and tried to finish the clocks. Well, still don't have them complete. The backing ring took a while cuuuuuz! I had to machine it out of a solid piece. Then drilled and tapped some thread to afix it to the mounting bracket.
As you can see, I don't have the right size bolts but you get the idea. I still have to machine the lower ring to make room for all the wires for the speedo and tach. The wires you see in the pics are only the led wires. I may use a flashing red led for critical low and move the orange over to "head light on" indicator. That, or I need to find another color for it.

Didn't like the open back on the lower fuel light so I used a bar end plug. Just had to widdle it down slightly and cut a hole in the side for the wires. The light is weather proof but I think it looks cleaner that way.

Also, there is more contouring and clean up on the mounting bracket. I have decided to go with a combination of gloss and flat black paint, and polished aluminum for the final product.

http://www.robwilton.com/gsr/gsx1100_instruments_01.jpg
http://www.robwilton.com/gsr/gsx1100_instruments_02.jpg
http://www.robwilton.com/gsr/gsx1100_instruments_03.jpg
http://www.robwilton.com/gsr/gsx1100_instruments_04.jpg
http://www.robwilton.com/gsr/gsx1100_instruments_06.jpg

[katman]

Got some more done on the tacho today. Added the plate for the Yoshimura multimeter and cleaned up some contours. It is still rough, though it is almost there. Final touches and detailing before paint and polish.

http://www.robwilton.com/gsr/gsx_custom_tachometer_01.jpg
http://www.robwilton.com/gsr/gsx_custom_tachometer_02.jpg
http://www.robwilton.com/gsr/gsx_custom_tachometer_03.jpg
http://www.robwilton.com/gsr/gsx_custom_tachometer_04.jpg

[BANDITROD]

That's fucking awesome well done mate

[ALBI]

nice job so far mate !!
hey katman is there a problem with canada post ?? i ordered some stuff on the 13th june and was posted on the 14th when i checked canada post with my tracking no it comes up that on the 22nd june postage postponed due due to labour problems ??? do you know anything about the post???

[katman]

Doing final touches on my billet sprocket cover. Have been working on this a long time. I am going to have two plates behind it to cover up the shift position wires and basic ugliness behind the sprocket as well as a cover for the starter and stator wires up to to clean that up and protect them. I am also going to make a cover for the shaft behind the cover to clean up the metal shaft look. May even anodize it.

http://www.robwilton.com/gsr/custom_katana_sprocket_cover_01.jpg
http://www.robwilton.com/gsr/custom_katana_sprocket_cover_02.jpg

[Fight_fan]

Thats a work of art mate!

[xa-mont]

that is so cool dude!

[katman]

My milling machine packed it in yesterday. No good!!! To fix it I have to haul it down to the United States, which wouldn't be too bad if it didn't way 500lbs. This is a real set back.

[katman]

BAck adder again.
pistons are in, engine is in the frame

http://www.robwilton.com/gsr/katana_motor_1.jpg

[katman]

OK project is back on. Since it has been a long project I thought I would throw on the turbo and efi to give myself a shot of motivation. Phase I is almost complete. That is motor in ready for carburetor break in. ONce the engine is broken in, Phase II starts, which will be in a couple months. Phase II is adding the fuel injection and getting it running correctly. Then Phase III, the TURBO!!! There are some issues to sort out with that but I am looking forward to getting down to problem solving for the completetion of the project.

I have taken the turbo stuff off today and put on the Vance and Hines header. I have a stainless (new) Yosh knock off coming. I am told that it will be killer. Of course you will all find out the details once I have it in my hot little hands. Here is a small rundown of what I have done lately.

Keyfob, one button on/off power - no ignition. I will be replacing this with an RFID system shortly when I get some upgraded parts from my supplier.The low fuel sensor is installed and working great (pics to follow). I am having an issue with my SPA super expensive clocks. The menu button decided to quit working. I don't know if it is the switch or the clocks. I will need to do some trouble shooting with the manufacturer next week. I had to redesign the backing of the clocks to allow the led lights to fit properly. ONe thing you get used to on these projects is doing things again and again to get them perfect. Another snag is my quick access clutch cover, it has offset my cable so it doesn not run through the center of the housing. It has also made it too short. Or rather, the stock actuator arm is too short and, has to be rotated inward which makes for a very heavy pull. Not only that but I am not getting enough clutch travel to completely disengage my plates. Something will have to be made, Oh, how novel!!

I am just waiting for my new set of RS Flatslides to arrive (tues/wed) and I can bring the beast to life. A Dyna 2000 is in charge of detonation while 1260cc pistons supply the force. Feeding this monster is a ported head with 1mm oversize stainless steel valves, Web 370 left cams dialed in to 108.5 degrees. The heavy lifting is provided by APE/Web hard welded rocker arms which will be generously lubricated by the top end oiling system. Managing all this torque and twist will be a Gardner Concepts prepared crank with straight cut gears with of corse, katana rods.

When Phase I is completed I will summarize what has been done to date. I have quite a few pics to upload when I get the chance. My computer has been down for a couple weeks which has backed many things up. Oh yeh, the color is "ATOMIC ORANGE" Believe me, the pictures do not do this bike justice. Walley and his crew over at Willowbrook collision in Langley did a fantastic job, for a fantastic price. Hand painted pinstriped, two tone all cleared over including the katana decal on the tank. They smoothed is all so there are no ridges. Go see them for paint. Great guys, great job, great price.

There is a more to catch up on that will be posted over the coming days.

http://www.robwilton.com/gsr/turbocharged_katana_01.jpg

http://www.robwilton.com/gsr/turbo_gs_1100_01.jpg

http://www.robwilton.com/gsr/gsx1100_turbo.jpg

http://www.robwilton.com/gsr/gsx_suzuki_speedometer.jpg

[BANDITROD]

Sweet Jesus that is porn

[BANDITROD]

Are you happy with the fuel cap I have one of those but I am yet to use it on anything

[Watto]

Nothin but wow....
:D

[Gix11]

Holy fuck that's gorgeous!

[ozzy1100]

Have said it before and say it again love the way u build a bike mate

[katman]

Thanks guys, appreciate the comments. Helps keep me goin when nothin is working.
I am using a Pingel petcock for this project. It fows more and I just don't like vacuum feeds. Too much trouble. Also installed the thermistor low fuel warning system from an SV 650. Its not a good idea to wait until you are out of gas and flip to reserve when your on EFI, so this will do nicely. At approximately where I would go onto reserve I now have a warning light on my dash that comes on. This peticular unit uses dual thermistors so I will be hooking up a secondary critically low warning light.

I was going to paint the low fuel unit as it was pretty ugly then realized its brass. Same as the outputs of my fuel valve, so I polished it up as shiny as gold. Matches nicely and looks great.

http://www.robwilton.com/gsr/gsx_petcock.jpg

[katman]

Here is what I did under the seat of my katana project. I cut some aluminum as many do, to relocat my electrics under the seat. This is not original, but it is something you have to do if you want to hide some clutter and clean up the look of the bike. Don't get me wrong, I like the electrical panel on the side, it adds to the look of the stock katana, but just didn't fit this project.

The extra bolts you see are for mounting the fuel injection controler and some other odds and ends. Here is a tip for anyone wanting to do this to their bike. Make sure you don't have tooooo long a screw in the back by the tail light. If you do, you just may tare a hole in your tire. The stock katana wheel rises above the seat rails so be careful to check all clearances and suspension travel.

Also tucked in there you will see my new lithium battery of 2.2 lbs. 270 cold cranking amps with 18 amp hrs. Monster output, miniscule footprint. Just under the new aluminum is a new "series" regulator rectifier. Do yourself a favor and google it. A buddy on a forum turned me onto these for which I am thankful, Thank Jimmy!!!!. I liked them and the batteries so much I became a dealer.

YOu will also see the voltage meter and my all weather usb charger for my iPhone. To the right of the usb is the push button switch for both. I wanted to be able to monitor battery status while the phone was charging since it would likely be sitting around shooting the breeze. When not in use I can keep them from drawing power. The usb plug draws power even if there is nothing plugged into it, so I am told. For on the move monitoring, I have a Yoshimura mutlimeter up front with oil temp, clock and volts. If you look closely, you may see the positive lead coming out of the fuse box (the bottom of our fuse boxes has a neg and pos accessory connection) This accessory terminal is hot with key off. That way I can charge the phone without the rest of the bike using power too.

I have some clean up to do. The positive lead from the battery is too short, and I need some more black zip ties. I am more anxious to get this on the road right now, then I can look after details off season, in a couple months.

http://www.robwilton.com/gsr/katana_inner_fender_a.jpg

http://www.robwilton.com/gsr/katana_inner_fender_b.jpg

http://www.robwilton.com/gsr/katana_inner_fender_c.jpg

http://www.robwilton.com/gsr/gsx1100_katana_regulator.jpg

[katman]

Here is how nice the flush mount gas cap turned out. I cut out the bung and replaced it with a fuel bung from a Harley Davidson Sportster. The flush mount cap is an oem discontinued cap that works great for my purposes. I don’t like trying to get my keys out when pulling up the the pump. The only think I need a key for now is my seat lock and I may be working on a hydrolic seat over the winter. Like I don’t have enough to do.

http://www.robwilton.com/forum/gsx_gas_cap.jpg

http://www.robwilton.com/forum/gsx_gas_cap_b.jpg

http://www.robwilton.com/forum/gsx_gas_cap_c.jpg

[katman]

The beast is on the road and phase I is complete. I will be riding for another few weeks and then the season is over. Over the winter I will be installing the fuel injection which is phase II. Once I have that all sorted out, I will be adding the turbo so please stay tuned. There is lots more to come. Over the coming weeks I will be posting more detailed pictures of the katana so you can see up close exactly what I have done and how it turned out. Although the pics look great I have to say the bike looks way better in person.

The contrast of the orange and black just doesn't translate well in the pics. I have to say it sure is nice to be cruising the Sea 2 Sky highway finally. Cheers!

[katman]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uudUDvgZTZk

http://www.suzuki-katana.com/forums/katana 1100.jpg

http://www.suzuki-katana.com/forums/katana 1100 800.jpg

http://www.suzuki-katana.com/forums/suzuki katana 750.jpg

[rock hard]

Thats one very impressive piece of work there Katman..im amazed how much you have done with your own two hands..be proud man

[ALBI]

nice colour mate !!