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View Full Version : The way i drill clamps for rizers and bars



latheboy
03-11-2006, 09:29 AM
http://www.streetfighters.com.au/forum/upload/285040928111079.jpg This is the original top clamp that i drilled for my pro tapers ... I put the clamp on a jig i made in the mill and machined off the posts that were the mounting points for the instruments .. they were about 15mm high ,then drilled the holes Ø12.1 at 99mm apart and 8mm offset from the center line of the forks .. when mounted i used a black 12mm cap screw (dont use zinced ones as they ar'nt strong enough ) these are grade 8 .. tuff as fuck .. and a high tensile washer with a nyloc nut .. on my new front end i moved the holes back more so they would be central to the rear most instrument mounting post .. 13mm from the center of the forks ..

latheboy
03-11-2006, 09:33 AM
http://www.streetfighters.com.au/forum/upload/28504092894048.jpg I hav'nt cut the cap screw down to lenght yet becuase i dont know what ill be doing about the rizers when i make my own set of clamps

latheboy
03-11-2006, 09:40 AM
http://www.streetfighters.com.au/forum/upload/28504092858441.jpgi drilled them 99mm apart only to pick up the centers of the posts to get the most meat around the caps screws as i could .. this is the way ive done it and im not saying that im right or that anyone else is wrong .. but this is the best way to do it anyone who thinks different is WRONG :D if you do drill the mounting points wider than i have ( so it only passes though the thin top section )you will need to have fairly big washers because the top clamp will flex ,not much and proberly fuck all but it will ... hope this miss information is a help to no-body ... Ivan

03-11-2006, 07:39 PM
i drilled mine in the same spot Ivan,but i also use a top yolk riser block which re-enforces the whole unit.I give mine a reasonably hard workout landing wheel stands and never had a problem (yet with flex or fatigue.

scotty mac
04-11-2006, 10:22 AM
hey mate what year make n model are your clamps off? i've been looking for pics on how to do this n wasn't sure where to drill.

fimpBIKES
05-11-2006, 07:26 PM
nice

i wouldve used zinc coated grade 12.9 bolts
but other than its all good :D

latheboy
07-11-2006, 09:04 AM
quote:Originally posted by scotty mac

hey mate what year make n model are your clamps off? i've been looking for pics on how to do this n wasn't sure where to drill.
the clamp in top pic is a 1988 GSXR750 the others are 1990 GSXR 750 ... i got 30 Dia. riser spacers on top which spreads the load really well ... dont be scared about punching so holes in your clamp scotty just measure it out and take you time .. if you got a different bike post a pic of your clamp and im sure you get a few people telling you where to drill ..

scotty mac
07-11-2006, 09:14 AM
thanks champ:Di've got a 91 gixxer 750 so should b all good but will dials still mount to the clamps in the same spot?

sickboy
07-11-2006, 04:51 PM
http://www.streetfighters.com.au/forum/upload/91210282761367.jpg
Here is a pick of a GSXR1000k4 T Clamp, Was wondering what the best way to bolt bar clamps from my sv1000 would be,I have been told the best way would be to drill clamp and drill 2 10mm alloy plates then Devcon the plates in place then bolt up the bar clamps,does this sound feasible? Like to know what you think.

latheboy
08-11-2006, 07:17 AM
that sounds about right to me sickboy but i dont know what Devcon is .. some sort of hard core glue ?
just make sure that when you mark out the holes they clear that mount post and miss completely or is bang on center of the raised square on the other side ... thats for the suzi S inst it ... what ever the size of the riser is in diameter or square you should have the same on the underside .. ie: a Ø30 spacer on top for the riser should have a Ø30 washer on the underside .. but this is only for a clamp like the K4 above ....
Scotty if you want all the shit hanging of the clamp still you will need to drill in the valley either foward or behind the center rib with some funky washer spacer thing to match the surface it will sit against ... hope this is clearer than mud