PDA

View Full Version : Reinforcing Top Triples



wackyrider
18-05-2009, 03:56 PM
i'm in the process of fightering the R1 and have already drilled out the top triple for the risers. Question is, what would be the best to reinforce it? Get some S/S and mill out the centre so that it would locate on the centre webbing of the top clamp?

holyman_999
18-05-2009, 04:55 PM
i'm about to get a start on my top triple, been giving it a fair bit of thought... the underside is recessed, with webbed sections (for want of a better term)...

my thoughts are that i use some of the epoxy putty (eg. Quiksteel) to fill the gaps, and make it a solid, flat area, then drilling all the way through... thereby giving the riser bolts more purchase, and allowing me to not have to grind down nuts, make up plates, etc...

any thoughts???

i've used this stuff for other things before, and found it holds very well, sets very solid... the only thing is that it sets dark grey/black... uuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuugly.... but my ride will never be pretty, so i'm not fussed about that

Gix11
18-05-2009, 05:45 PM
When it come to risers I'd recommend you never use anything that may fail in anyway. Metal to metal is what you want. No fillers, plates, thick washers, rubber, all of these things can cause movement. If you're going to use the top triple and drill it I'd recommend the dual bolt risers as opposed to the single centre one to give you a bigger fixing area. Also try an position it so it avoids the casting structure, this is also keeping the top clamps rigidity, if you clear them to make a hole you're yet again weakening the whole affair. Try and pick two spots between the casts that aren't too far apart that your risers clamp into the curve of any handle bars otherwsie you'll have to go looking for flat drag bars.

I had risers on my bike exactly as I have just stated for 2 years and thousands of kilometres on them without and problems (although I did start to notice a little creaking noise when I pushed the bike around the garage by the bars near the end - from slight movement in the fixture). Try not to think of this method as your final result though as you cannot beat a proper top clamp.

Here's some previous posts on the same subject that comes up all the time:

http://www.streetfighters.com.au/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=13323

http://www.streetfighters.com.au/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=3297


Here's another cool suggestion:

http://www.streetfighters.com.au/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=4282


...and sorry to use this as an example of doing it wrong Dex, but it is good for others to see:

http://www.streetfighters.com.au/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=9480

Deano
18-05-2009, 05:46 PM
dont bother. if you can pull either 2 m10 or m12 or 4 m8 bolts through a piece of 6-8mm thick ally without bending the handle bars then you are a better man than i.

99% of conversions are done without reinforcing and so far i am yet to hear of one that has caused problems.

if you feel you must do something then go to your local bolt shop and buy some high tensile flat washers in the size you need. they are about twice he thickness of standard washers and hardened aswell.

a waste of time if you ask me

holyman_999
18-05-2009, 06:24 PM
that's why i love this site... no bullshit, no whinging about hearing the same questions over and over again... just the truth... thanks guys... :D:D:D

wackyrider
18-05-2009, 07:10 PM
I've actually had some spacers machined up about 6mm thick. they are the same size as the nuts so the load is distributed, kind of

18-05-2009, 09:39 PM
So what happened to Dex's ride? Just read that for the 1st time and was enjoying it then it all stopped suddenly

Gix11
19-05-2009, 04:31 PM
He sold it 'cause he needed the money last thing I heard.

JackTar
19-05-2009, 05:48 PM
quote:Originally posted by wackyrider

the same size as the nuts so the load is distributed


Got to make sure that 'load' is distributed eh Rod.

latheboy
19-05-2009, 09:57 PM
Fucking hell wacky do a search... this is old news ...

Me i would weld a S/S bolt into the Al. top triple then silver solder a cast iron nut to the rear wheel just before molding some plastic around the header pipes so i could heat the fuel tank to 500000000000°C which would then create a parallel universe where your clamps would be mounted to the top clamp.... Then all you have to do is bring them back to our universe ... I cant help with that bit sorry

holyman_999
20-05-2009, 05:34 AM
latheboy... that is fcuking terrific... my family's asleep, it's half five in the am. and i'm sitting at the pc giggling my ass off... :D[8D]:)[:p]:D:):D[:p]

well done...