GSXR electrical gremlin

[hooligan]

Hey guys.
For the past month or so I've had an intermittant electrical (I think) problem.
Every now and then the bike will drop a cylinder or 2 while I'm riding. If I keep it revving, it'll come good. Or sometimes if it does stall, I pull over and it'll start first go. Other times it needs a bit of a rest.
Today it did it, at a set of lights for about 30 secs or a minute, I kept the revs up, and a bit of popping and farting, and it came good.
10 mins later, it happened again, I pulled over, it stopped. Took off my helmet, tried the starter and it fired no probs, and then ran fine.
Other times it'll stop, and stay stopped for a while.
It's an 87 1100, big bore, 38mm carbs jetted to suit the pods, and a dyna 2000. All the connections to the coils are good, and has new crank trigger/pick ups.

Any ideas?

[BANDITROD]

do you have a remote ignition

[hooligan]

yeah.

[BANDITROD]

not to say that is it but on the last ride out i went on my bike was doing the same and all it was a part of the remote ignition had vibrated off and then my bike wouldnt start at all ...but having said that i dont think that would be your problem mate but it is food for thought

[hooligan]

What remote do you have? Garison from Ben?

[Hillsy]

Check your power leads to your coils. I had the same gremlim on my old EFE and it was a cracked power lead. They get brittle with heat / age.

I doubt it would be your remote ignition - if that played up it would kill all your power, not just a cyl or two.

[hooligan]

I don't think it's the remote either, just curious in case it ever happens.
Power leads have just been replaced - that was part of the problem, but unfortunately, there's something else, too.
If I can't get it tracked down, it'll be an interesting ride to Casino...

[Docktor]

I wouldnt discount the carbs either ya know ?...............

[JackTar]

Make sure your remote is not too close to your battery either, not the problem now obviously as you won't drop cylinders it will just stop, I had this problem for a couple of days till I worked out that when I removed the remote it started when I put it back near the battery it wouldn't.

[hooligan]

I'm not discounting anything cos I've got no idea. When the spark kicks back in though, it backfires. Does that mean it's getting enough fuel, but not enough spark?

[Benz]

Check your main loom for burnt/heated over time connections, I had the same thing on my 1100J slabby. The main connection between the ignition key, and the rest of the ignition circuit had a bad terminal.The bike would wind over, but not start, or quit on me then run fine again after a minute or two.

[mr.zxr]

could be the coil breakin down as it gets hot. i had that happen once. is it a wasted spark setup(one coil per 2 cylinders). next time it happens try to keep it going and determine which cyclinders are not firing. if it's two cylinders from the same coil, i'd say your coil could be the problem.

[dingo]

im only a noob to the scene of a 4pot, keen to learn and do everything i can, turns out all these issues i have had(thanks for the help with it all) has been nothing to do with the cause, it started a similar way, just all of a sudden was breaking down stalling but was fine when you fed it. all my noises i had where round the same time. cleaned the carbs, done the tank , checked clearences, done the camchain, all was goin well, tuned up ok for my knowlage then like you flicked a switch , pots 3&4(only guessing from the colour of the new plugs), turn it off imeditaly start it again and all is good, nother new set of plugs and i havnt had a problem since, only thing ive touched at that time was the coils and plugs.

big post full of mind numbing shit but it sounds the same as my issue.

[hooligan]

Thanks for all the replies, guys.

Had it running with the tank and seat off, jiggling and poking wires to the coils, pickups, and the dyna 2000 box, to see what would make it fuck up.

It pointed to the Dyna box itself. Changed the box, did the same poke and shake testing (very scientific)and couldn't make it fuck up.
Been running perfectly with the new ignition box for the last week or so, but I want to try and send the old box back to Dyna to see what the problem actually was. There is a test switch on the back of the unit that creates similar symptoms, like the box was changing between the selected advance curve and the test mode for some reason (not the physical switch moving, but the circuit fucking up, if that makes sense).