Need some turbo advice

[Tony OW31]

I was tidying the shed earlier and found the original turbo off my nissan patrol (nothing wrong with it, I just upgraded it). Offered it up to my bking, and it looks about the right physical size[?] but knowing less than fuckall about turbocharging petrol engines I thought I had better seek some advice.
First off, I'm not looking at making mega horsepower, I just want to make the bike a bit less sanitized.
It is a Hitachi HT18, is this suitable or am I wasting my time?
If I run a low boost ~0.5 bar will I need to lower the compression or will the stock motor handle it?
Will I need any fancy electronics, or will a PCIII do the job?
Any other advice will be appreciated.

[Booster]

Look like this
http://photogallery.suzukituning.com/thumbnails.php?album=43
looks small but i have no specs to be sure,

B-K is higher comp than the 1st gen busa's and should limit the boost to 4-6 psi max on std comp
a pc3usb will work if you use a FMU like a begi 2025 regulator

[Tony Nitrous]

quote:Originally posted by Booster

Look like this
http://photogallery.suzukituning.com/thumbnails.php?album=43
looks small but i have no specs to be sure,

B-K is higher comp than the 1st gen busa's and should limit the boost to 4-6 psi max on std comp
a pc3usb will work if you use a FMU like a begi 2025 regulator


Not 100% but I think the turbo guy's are pulling the new
valves out. Not sure why? Titanium ? Not suitable ?
Might just be on big horsepower bikes.
Woodsy is the guy to Ask, 500+ hp but im not sure if he
built it or Sean at BigCC ?

[Booster]

Titanium valves are more heat sensitive than the old ones , valve springs are weaker too(lighter valves don't need as heavy springs)both not good for higher levels of boost but ok at low levels

[Tony OW31]

quote:Originally posted by Booster

Titanium valves are more heat sensitive than the old ones , valve springs are weaker too(lighter valves don't need as heavy springs)both not good for higher levels of boost but ok at low levels


ok, I've been doing a bit of searching re the turbo, they use em a lot on nissan 200's and mazda rotaries, from what I have read they overheat at high boost levels, but that's ok cos I wont be using high boost.
Was hoping to get 6-8 psi, so maybe I will need to reduce the compression a bit. Roughly how many points lower is needed per PSI of boost? Will a thicker head gasket do the job, or will the increase in squish clearance fuck up the combustion efficiency?
Re the valve springs, why does the high boost level need stiffer springs, I would have thought the extra pressures involved would help keep the valve seated?

[Booster]

Pressure is on the wrong side of the inlet valve , and exhaust backpressure can upset the exhaust valve, it only needs to be enough to stop the valve from been in contact with the cam at changover from lift to close and cause hammering , which leads to poor seat life,streched valves, sometimes broken valves or collet problems
Simple test to see the effect, lay your finger on a bench and rest a hammer on it, slight pressure no real problem, now lift the hammer 20mm or so and let go, .....
Decompress.. better using a thicker base gasket , heads gasket is going to be stressed more than std no point reducing its reliability., put in some studs at the same time, squish is nice but the correct comp ratio for boost is more critical.
Mazda rotarys need a far bigger exhaust than inlet . a bike is more the other way

[Tony OW31]

quote:Originally posted by Booster

Pressure is on the wrong side of the inlet valve , and exhaust backpressure can upset the exhaust valve, it only needs to be enough to stop the valve from been in contact with the cam at changover from lift to close and cause hammering , which leads to poor seat life,streched valves, sometimes broken valves or collet problems
Simple test to see the effect, lay your finger on a bench and rest a hammer on it, slight pressure no real problem, now lift the hammer 20mm or so and let go, .....
Decompress.. better using a thicker base gasket , heads gasket is going to be stressed more than std no point reducing its reliability., put in some studs at the same time, squish is nice but the correct comp ratio for boost is more critical.
Mazda rotarys need a far bigger exhaust than inlet . a bike is more the other way

Thanks for the info, looks like I have a bigger job than I first thought, ah well, spose I better get stuck in then.

[Tony Nitrous]

Lazy Bastard option........

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Suzuki-Hayabusa-B-King-Suzuki-B-King-Turbo_W0QQitemZ260365099512QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_m otorcycles?hash=item260365099512&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A543%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318 #ht_500wt_1620

[Tony OW31]

quote:Originally posted by Tony Nitrous

Lazy Bastard option........

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Suzuki-Hayabusa-B-King-Suzuki-B-King-Turbo_W0QQitemZ260365099512QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_m otorcycles?hash=item260365099512&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A543%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318 #ht_500wt_1620


Yeah, saw that on the BK forum. certainly not to my taste, and $17500 US for something that doesn't go round corners, no thanks. From what I've read you can get a new BK for 10kUS, so the $7500 for the turbo kit and swingarm seems a bit rich.

[Tony Nitrous]

Yeah, totaly agree.
Lowrider suspension and fat tyres aren't my thing either.

Would be interested to see what they price the Turbo kit at ?
Their Busa kits are listed a about $4k US but the exchange
rate isn't what it was.

An extra 40 pony's would be good.
Still useable and reliable i'd think,
would make it the bike it should have been.

[Tony Nitrous]

http://velocityracing.com/2007/turbos/hayabusa_stage_one_2007.htm