Mold making & copying body parts

http://www.streetfighters.com.au/forum/upload/76374771239375.jpg

This is a series of photos that show how to use a product from 'Solid Solutions' (based in Melb, 19 Ardena Crt, East Bentleigh, 9579 2044) called Rayite MDM-S and MDM-M to make exact copies of plastic (or fibreglass) body parts.
This first photo shows the part to be copied, a front guard from a Moto Guzzi 1100i Sport. (It is pearl white as I'm using it as a test piece for a GSXR respray.)

http://www.streetfighters.com.au/forum/upload/76374771257566.jpg

I haven't yet figured out how to upload a series of photos, how do I do that, as there are about 25 photos in this series?
This one shows the bag of MDM-S. It means (Model Duplicating Media-Surface), this is a 15kg bag, about $65 and is what is left over from all the stuff I did - I have at least 3/4 of the bag left. The other media required is a bag of MDM-R. Comes in a 20kg bag costing about $30. You use a LOT more of this as it forms the hard case of the mold.
Rather than do these one by one I'll await instruction about how to load multiple photos then continue...

[Cruisecontrol]

I think it is a bigger pain in the arse to upload multiple photos than it is to do the glassing that you are about to explain. :D

Open up two reply to topic pages, and in one go here:

http://www.streetfighters.com.au/forum/upload/76374781851660.JPG


When you have uploaded a pic you will get this screen. Copy the circled filename.

http://www.streetfighters.com.au/forum/upload/76374781854203.JPG


Paste it into your other open reply to topic window (thte one you want to be the new thread/post) It will look like this:

http://www.streetfighters.com.au/forum/upload/76374781851114.JPG


Now just repeat the process of uploading the photos and copying the filename to your post:

http://www.streetfighters.com.au/forum/upload/76374781866177.JPG


Always preview to make sure it is all good and then hit "Post New Reply"

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This shows the material MDM-S as it is in the bag. Wear a dust mask! When mixing either the S or R media follow the directions. That is weigh everything and mix by weight. Don't just whack water in as you feel like it or the later M layer does not adhere properly.
http://www.streetfighters.com.au/forum/upload/76374834144164.jpg

You need plasticine to make the mold edges, cost about $25 for 4 kg block. Turns out to be an excellent fine motor exercise!

http://www.streetfighters.com.au/forum/upload/76374834144573.jpg

Be careful to have the plasticine not go over the edge of the object being copied. You need it to stay right along the edge so the copy has a clear edge for trimming.

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This is what the MDM-S looks like mixed. It goes a reddish colour.

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Brush it on nice and thick, although the MDM-S is not to be mixed into a thickish consistency, it has to be able to flow into any tight spots without trapping air. You can leave one coat of S to dry a bit then apply another - while the first is still wet. If it dries out you have to spray water on it so the next coat will stick. This also applies when it comes time to cover the S medium with the heavier M.

http://www.streetfighters.com.au/forum/upload/76374834135885.jpg

Be careful not to overbrush and have a very thin layer of S medium. Ensure all external corners are well covered AND internal angles are not harbouring trapped air as bubbles.

http://www.streetfighters.com.au/forum/upload/76374834159411.jpg

This shows some of the materials you will need, kitchen scales for measuring amounts to mix, tongue depressors for mixing and throwing away, cheap brushes etc. All this stuff is sold thru Solid Solutions.

http://www.streetfighters.com.au/forum/upload/76374834150714.jpg

This shows what the process looks like once started. Imagine the white guard fully covered in the reddish medium. One good coat is enuff, you can do 2 if necessary. Then it is time to mix and apply the MDM-R. Wear a mask and gloves as this stuff has chopped fibres in it. I didn't have any left from my adventures so you have to imagine piling on lumps of doughy consistency stuff to build up a strong outer shell. They recommend a 1 inch thick shell, you need this to maintain correct shape during the glassing process. In the foreground here you can see a final mold inverted, I made a big thick base so it could sit properly when I did the glassing. You can see some holes I've drilled in the base as part of the method I used to lock everything together to get correct registering of edges.

http://www.streetfighters.com.au/forum/upload/76374834150660.jpg

Register system here, you need to design some way for the parts of the mold to ONLY GO TOGETHER ONE WAY. Or else what you make will be wonky!

http://www.streetfighters.com.au/forum/upload/76374834154991.jpg

This shows the completed mold. You must leave it for several days for it to be completely dry BEFORE it is sealed. It must be sealed before using, with a clear enamel. Give it several coats. Once this is dry this then has to be waxed. I bought wax release from Solid Solutions, still have most of it left. You'll find that even buying small quantities you'll have lots left over, except for the M mediulm and the resin, which seems to go quickly.

Hope this helps. If anyone wants to they can use some of the leftover stuff I have. If you are serious about doing this, get in touch and if you live in Melb perhaps we can arrange a day where I can go thru it with you? Happy building, it is a time-consuming process but very satisfying when you get the copy out of the mold. You can say to everyone, "Look what I did, and mean it!!'
Cheers

[Issues]

How robust are the moulds? Would they be suitable for multiple uses?

[Docktor]

had a sus the other day in another post talkin bout the same place even, was thinkin of goin to one of them 49 dollar courses for a look. wouldnt mind hookin up to get the inside info on it if ya get time mate. wot suburb you in ?. i wanna make a fibreglass mould of the side scoops on the hardtops if ya know wot i mean ?

[Azrael]

Cool thread, good info!

[Gsxar]

Xlent thanks..... Now shopping on their site to have a go. Doc you leanr n teach me:D:D

[zx12argh]

Nice work mate. I watched some of the vids on the solid solutions website. Very cool - they make it look easy. I'm guessing you have to be careful with how thick a clear coat you put down tho.

quote:Originally posted by Issues

How robust are the moulds? Would they be suitable for multiple uses?

The mold can be used a few times but you need to be VERY careful. The surface, i.e. the clear paint can tend to be pulled off if it hasn't been thoroughly waxed. Probably best to think of these molds as 2 or 3 uses - although care could make them last longer, I only needed mine for 2 uses so didn't really try to maintain after last use.

quote:Originally posted by Docktor

had a sus the other day in another post talkin bout the same place even, was thinkin of goin to one of them 49 dollar courses for a look. wouldnt mind hookin up to get the inside info on it if ya get time mate. wot suburb you in ?. i wanna make a fibreglass mould of the side scoops on the hardtops if ya know wot i mean ?

I'm in Bentleigh, give me a call.