CBRRRT's Shed. (Index on page 1.)

[CBRRRT]

Now on to the shocks

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/110.jpg

They seem ok in that there is no oil leaks in them and the chrome springs look good but the rest of the shock looks a bit tatty so I need to get them apart.

I dont have a spring compressor so I'm going to make one with what I have laying around in the shed.

First I cut a couple of lengths of threaded rod to about 40cm and ground the zink coating off the end.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00677.jpg

Then with my grinder cut a slot in the end.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00678.jpg

Next I ground the zink off a couple of washers with holes in them the same as the bottom mount of the shock.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00679.jpg

I then taped them into the end of the bar and welded them into place

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00680.jpg

Next I took a bit of angle I had and cut a length 16cm long and cut a slot 5cm wide in the center.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00681.jpg

Then held it to the shock and marked on it about the center of the shock.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00682.jpg

and drilled out two holes for the threaded rod to go through.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00710.jpg

While under compression I dont want the shock to come out of the compressor and hurt anyone, so I took an old bracket, heated it up and bent it to the right size to go round the shock.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00711.jpg

and drilled a couple of holes in the back of the angle to bolt through. Just make sure they dont clash with the holes on the top or the rods will not sit straight.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00712.jpg

Next I sat the shock in the compressor and secured it with the clamp

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00713.jpg

Another short section of bar through the bottem washers and shock mount and I started to wind down the top nuts untill the collet was free to pop out.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00714.jpg

Now its all apart I can get on with refurbishing it.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00715.jpg

A bit of a clean and a lick of paint should do it I think.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00716.jpg

[wackyrider]

Nice home made spring compressor there Jon. I like the way u think

[CBRRRT]

Thanks mate,

after I figured out how to dismantle my shocks, I've given all the parts a good clean

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00717.jpg

Then I got rid of the rust and paint on the body of the shocks

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00718.jpg

These tubes cover the shock plunger shaft and seal and protect it from dirt etc.
This bike is no longer going to be a daily ride to work and will get a clean after every trip so I'm not bothered about grime, but I do want to see the shafts, so I cut down the protective tubes

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00719.jpg

I'll get some paint tomorrow and give them a blast, then give it a few days and get them back together.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00720.jpg

[Gitzy]

Your a genius Jon, love your work Mate, keep it coming..

[CBRRRT]

Thanks matey, I Will.

Waiting on calliper oil seals, air filter and oil filter, crank case breather........... Well, you get the idea mate.

[CBRRRT]

After striping off all the old paint I went over them with meths to get rid of any grease or dirt then gave them a blast of matalic black.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00721.jpg

Yesterday I was talking to a really nice guy from Hagen Shocks and told him what I was doing and he offered to supply new decals for my shocks free of charge. Result, they arrived today.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00722.jpg

I painted the starter motor and a few other bits too

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00723.jpg

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00725.jpg

The next thing on the cards is to convert the engine to an electric fan. I need to replace this temp sender unit with a thermostatic fan switch. The only one I have been able to find that is a direct screw in fit is in America, so I brought on on Amazon last night.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00726.jpg

It was £26.00 including shipping.

Its a [u]BWD Automotive TFS500 Radiator Fan Switch</u>

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/kgrhqj10.jpg

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/kgrhqn10.jpg

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/kgrhqz10.jpg

[BANDITROD]

Goods stuff Jon I am enjoying this thread it's a great write up

[lurch]

There was one of these for sale in the local paper a few days ago. Was fucking hard to resist checking it out to buy after having seen this thread but I think it's gone now.

Keep up the good work!!

[CBRRRT]

Thanks lads, the bits to refurb bin is getting smaller every day. I really need to get the frame off to media blasting and powdercoating so I can start bolting things back on.

[CBRRRT]

I reassembled the shocks when I got home today, and from what I started with

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/110.jpg

I'm pleased with what I have now

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00727.jpg

[CBRRRT]

I understand that the generators on CX's are very unreliable, so I've decided to get mine rewound.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00728.jpg

Some of the bolts are a little awkward to get to and the gear shift has to come off

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00729.jpg

The water impeller came off next

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00730.jpg

Then the rear engine case came right off

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00731.jpg

and the generator is tucked inside

five bolts and its out

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00733.jpg

ready to go off to be rewound

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00734.jpg

[CBRRRT]

I've been thinking about my exhaust for a while now and know I want it a cone shape (very cafe racer) and slung low.

I was having a tidy up in my shed extension and spotted the Motax exhaust can it came with and thought I might be able to do something with it.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00735.jpg

So out came the grinder and I started to chop

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00736.jpg

When I cut it I left the welds on the bits I wanted to join so there was more metal thickness to weld

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00737.jpg

I clamped the two together and stuck a few tack welds around it

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00738.jpg

I know my weldings a bit rough but it will grind back, and thats all that matters

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00739.jpg

I'll go over it with my power file and tidy it up a bit more then paint it black

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00740.jpg

And thats another job done.

[BANDITROD]

Looking good Jon should sound nice like that

[CBRRRT]

Thanks mate, should make a nice burble, but with the new airfilters the carbs are gonna need a bit of rejetting.

[ALBI]

i cant belive you have to pull the cover of to do the stator!!!!
have you worked out wat colour it's going to be yet?

[CBRRRT]

I know mate, thats why I cant risk putting the motor in the frame without doing it. Its a real pain, but it would be a bigger one to have to strip it down after the bike is finished.

I think I'm on colour plan revision 54 at the moment mate. Every time I think I have it in the bag someone says "What if"

[LKC73]

Looking good mate, like the new can you have made for it.

[CBRRRT]

Not much to report as I'm waiting on stuff, but these are my replacement engine badges

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00741.jpg

I think they look awesome fitted

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00742.jpg

[xa-mont]

Looks cool.

[Harry]

This is all very good jonathon, like the badge's. . . . .very pretty. But i think it's time to have a pic of some glamour exposing herself, im in the desert on my phone mate so im leaving it up to you. ;)

[Harry]

This is all very good jonathon, like the badge's. . . . .very pretty. But i think it's time to have a pic of some glamour exposing herself, im in the desert on my phone mate so im leaving it up to you. ;)

[CBRRRT]

How about this shot of British babe Kelly Brook. She should keep your hands busy on those cold desert nights Harry.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/brook-10.jpg

[Fight_fan]

This thread just got even more awesomer! :D

[CBRRRT]

Enough of that now Lance.

I've decided to fit an electric fan to my CX500 for the following reasons

The advantages are some increase in performance.
Better cooling cycle.
Little or no chance of the Mechanical fan grenading the Radiator.
Faster engine warm up.
Parts are easy to source and replace.

My fan switch arrived from the States today, for anyone interested in tapping the switch into their thermostat housing instead of soldering one onto the radiator, this unit is a direct screw in. But then you lose your temperature gauge, but its no biggy because I dont want one any way

BWD TFS500. You should be able to find it at most auto parts stores, I paid $26.00 including shipping.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00743.jpg

Although it has an O ring I used a little plumbers mate on the threads to make sure it had a good seal

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00744.jpg

It looks like it was made for the job

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00745.jpg

new O ring and thermostat

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00746.jpg

and copper grease on the threads of the new stainless cap head bolts

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00747.jpg

then the thermostat housing can go back on

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00748.jpg

I'm going to use a rad off a ZXR600 RR as I understand the size and power they draw is just right for the CX.

[BANDITROD]

Jon I can see one flaw in your shocks the reason for that thing that covered your shafts isn't to protect your shafts at all it is a guide for your spring mate what will happen now is the spring will try to push out the sides if that makes sense not to sure if it will cause you any trouble but I just thought I would point it out to you

[CBRRRT]

Thats a good point Rod, and something I had'nt considered. I'm not quite sure what to do about it other than order some more shrouds from Hagon, they are only plastic tubes so shouldnt cost the earth.

Thanks for the heads up on that mate.

[BANDITROD]

No probs mate I only noticed because in the pic of the finished shocks the one on the right looked curved

[CBRRRT]

Spoke to Hagon today mate and they advised they go back on so I orded a couple. Good spot Rod!!!

[BANDITROD]

All good mate

[Harry]

quote:Originally posted by CBRRRT

How about this shot of British babe Kelly Brook. She should keep your hands busy on those cold desert nights Harry.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/brook-10.jpg
Sweeeeeeeeeeet ! [:p]

[CBRRRT]

well theres no going back now, i've decided to chop off the fan mount.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00756.jpg

more room to mount the electric fan

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00757.jpg

I'm going to take my generator in for testing tomorrow, If alls well then I can stick it back in and start the engine rebuild.

[CBRRRT]

A while ago I polished the rocker covers on my engin

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00576.jpg

Today I decided to polish the tops on my carbs, then couldn't resist trying on my new air filters

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00810.jpg

I still have to overhawl the carbs, but thats coming soon.

[BANDITROD]

Looks good mate but now you have polished the carb tops you may aswell polish the rest of them

[Harry]

Ha, go on jon... . Polish all of them.
It may keep you off the streets and stop you roiting [8D]

[CBRRRT]

The carbs are gonna get the same treatment as the engine block lads, I want to continue that look on the whole motor.

I got lots of other bling to dress up the bike that will go on when the motor is back in the frame, so there will be plenty to polish for the new owner.

[BANDITROD]

So to save me reading through it again ....what are the plans for the block

[CBRRRT]

As it is now matey. I was going to paint it, but then thought it might look over restored.

[CBRRRT]

I've been cleaning and painting a few bits this last week, including the break shoe hub. The drive hub was done a while back.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00809-20110813-1257.jpg

I used a de-greaser to get rid of the dirt and oil on the center of the wheel, and I'll apply new grease where needed when I start the rebuild

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00811-20110813-1258.jpg

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00810-20110813-1257.jpg

Front wheel discs need to come off so I can get to the dirt and grease behind them

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00812-20110813-1305.jpg

I'm going to paint the spokes in the wheels but polish the ally rims

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00817-20110813-1506.jpg

So I went over them with a wire brush in my power drill

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00818-20110813-1514.jpg

Things are starting to slow down a bit now because the list of jobs is getting ever smaller, and I have draws and shelves stuffed with finished parts. My stater/generator is away being tested at the moment as there was a battery charging problem with the bike when I got it. The last thing I want to do is take a chance its ok then have to remove the engine again.

[CBRRRT]

When I brought the bike the guy told me there was a problem with the battery charging, I went on the web and this is what I found.



Hope you find it helpfull as I did.



Battery Charging Problems

Battery charging problems sometimes arise. Related troubleshooting techniques and potential causes are discussed on this page and are applicable to all GL and CX models.



Testing The Charging System



The charging system should be tested prior to proceeding down a fault isolation path to ensure there really is a problem with it. This sounds obvious, but it's surprising how many times a charging system is deemed faulty simply because the battery runs down. The battery may be running down for other reasons, such as some newly installed gadget that places a small but constant load on the battery or perhaps a malfunction elsewhere in the electrical system.

The charging system health can be assessed by making two simple battery voltage measurements. (The procedure for measuring the battery voltage was previously described in the multimeter section.) First, measure the battery voltage with the ignition switch off (i.e. no load). It should be around 12 Volts. Next, start the bike and run the engine at about 2000 rpm and measure the battery voltage again.

If the battery voltage decreased, this indicates the battery is discharging under the electrical load of the bike and the charging circuit is not working.

If the battery voltage increased slightly but never rose higher than 14 Volts, the charging circuit is working but at reduced capacity or is overloaded. There is likely a problem that needs correction.

If the battery voltage increased to at least 14.2 Volts but not over 14.8 Volts, the charging circuit is working properly. On most bikes the charging voltage runs about 14.5 Volts.

If the battery voltage increased to above 14.8 Volts, the charging circuit is likely overcharging the battery. Again, this problem needs correction. For the GL500, one very common cause of this is a poor ground connection under the rider's seat, see here.



The Battery



It's possible for the battery itself to be the cause of a charging system problem even if it is new. It should be replaced if there is any question about its health because the charging system will not operate properly without a good battery installed. Among other functions, it stabilizes the charging system voltage.

One battery failure mode is for it to simply not hold a charge. This happens most often when the battery has some age on it, even more so if used infrequently. Check the battery voltage both with the ignition switch off and while cranking the engine.

With the ignition switch off (no load), the battery voltage should be 12 Volts or slightly higher. When cranking, it should not drop below 10.8 Volts or so. If this happens, the battery is probably defective or discharged. If the battery cables get really hot while cranking, another possibility is a serious engine problem where it is binding when turning over.

If the no-load battery voltage is less than 10.5 Volts there is a chance it has a shorted cell. When this happens, the battery cannot be charged to greater than 11.5 Volts or so. It may reach this value or higher with a charger connected, but the voltage will rapidly drop to a much lower value within a few minutes of disconnecting the charger. This failure mode is less common but does happen on occasion.

On a related topic, sometimes it may be necessary to jump the battery to start the bike. A 12 Volt car battery can be safely used for this purpose, whether installed in a car or not. However, I do not think it is a good idea for the car engine to be running when doing so. Significant high voltage transients can result from the car's charging system, particularly when subjected to intermittent high current loads. Although this occurrence is unlikely, especially with modern vehicle electrical systems, it is an unnecessary risk.



The Stator Connector



The stator connector is the connector with three yellow wires. This is where the alternator stator (located inside the engine) is connected to the regulator/rectifier module (located under the battery tray on GL bikes).

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/StatorPlug1.jpg

The stator connector has a long history of problems on many Honda bike models. In addition to charging problems, fires have started when this connector has malfunctioned. I'm aware of one CX turbo bike that was completely destroyed by fire when this connector failed.

This particular stator connector shows evidence of arcing and severe overheating. Thanks go to Honda CX500 and GL500 Forum member Dave from Slippery Rock for sharing this example.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/MeltedStatorConnector.jpg

Unplug the connector and closely inspect both halves for evidence of overheating, arcing, corrosion, and broken or frayed wire ends. A good solid electrical connection is absolutely essential here for all three wire junctions.

If there are problems, one time-honored and widely accepted repair is to remove the connector entirely, solder the wires together, and cover with heat shrink tubing. Alternately, Honda sells a connector repair kit (part number 31105-ML8-305) containing both connector halves and heat shrink tubing. In either case, soldering is necessary. An excellent tutorial for solder-splicing wires can be found here.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/StatorConnectorRepairKit.jpg

Grounding Problems



Check the grounds. A poor or intermittent ground connection can cause charging system problems including no charging or charging voltage out of range, either high or low. The GL500 in particular must have a good ground connection at this location under the seat for proper charging system operation.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/RearGround500.jpg

The Stator



Stator failures are fairly common. Unfortunately, the stator is located inside the rear engine case. If replacement is necessary the engine must be pulled and disassembled to gain access to the stator. Fortunately it is not necessary to go to all this work to simply test the stator.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/Stator.jpg

When testing the stator, multimeter measurements are taken at the stator connector with the connector unplugged.

Make sure you are taking measurements on the stator connector half that goes to the engine, not the connector half that goes to the regulator/rectifier. Tug on the wires to trace where they go - do not make a false assumption about which end is which. A simple mistake in selecting the wrong connector half could lead down an erroneous troubleshooting path so it is important to confirm what is being measured.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/StatorPlug2.jpg

Stator Resistance Checks



First, measure the resistance between each of the three stator connector terminal tabs and ground. Set the meter function switch to the highest resistance range possible (2000K in my case). The negative meter lead should be connected to the negative battery terminal. Measure each of the three stator connector terminal tabs in turn using the positive meter lead.

A good stator will have infinite resistance to ground (open circuit or no continuity) from any of these terminals. If the meter reads anything else, the stator is defective.

Next, measure the resistance between each of the three connector terminal tabs. Set the meter function switch to the lowest resistance range possible (200 in my case). In this case, the negative meter lead is not connected to the negative battery terminal but is used to measure from one stator connector terminal tab to the next with the positive meter lead as shown in this photo. (This is the same photo seen earlier in the multimeter section.)

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/ResistanceMeasurement.jpg

A good stator should measure well under one Ohm for each of the three possible test connections. As described in the multimeter section, be sure to consider the residual meter lead resistance when making this measurement - we are interested in the actual stator wire resistance, not that of the meter leads! If any of the three measurements are above 1.5 Ohms, the stator is defective.

Stator Voltage Checks



Assuming the stator resistance checks are good, the next thing to check is the stator open circuit voltage. The stator connector is also unplugged for this measurement. Set the meter to measure AC Voltage with a range selection of at least 100 Volts on your meter.

Start the bike and adjust the throttle so the engine is running at about 2000 rpm. Measure the AC Voltage between each of the three stator connector terminal tabs, tab-to-tab as in the previous resistance measurement (not tab-to-ground). Write down each of the three measured voltages.

The actual voltages measured are not so important, and they will vary with engine rpm over a range from about 40 Volts to 70 Volts. However, it is important that the three measured voltages are approximately the same value. A gross mismatch is a strong indication of a shorted stator winding.

A typical set of measurements for a good stator might be 53, 52, and 54 Volts. For a bad stator, this could be 18, 24, and 12 Volts. In the latter case the voltage is both grossly unbalanced and low.

A stator can pass the resistance checks but fail the voltage checks. In this case, one or more windings are shorted to themselves. Conversely, a stator can fail the resistance checks and pass the voltage checks. If the stator fails either set of checks it is defective.

Hot and Cold Stator Checks



The stator resistance and voltage tests should be performed both when the engine is cold and after it has warmed up to normal operating temperature. The stator windings can develop a short or open circuit as a function of temperature when they contract and expand. The tests are not complete until you've performed them under both conditions.

Stator Replacement



If you've positively determined that your stator is bad, there is a strong chance that nothing else has failed. That is the good news.

The bad news is that the engine must be pulled and disassembled to gain access to the stator. Since this is a significant task (although not really difficult), it makes sense to take care of other things within the engine that may also need attention while it is apart. The other big items are the cam chain and water pump mechanical seal, and the three together are often referred to as the "triple bypass operation." In addition, there are several seals and o-rings that should be replaced at the same time.

It is beyond the scope of this writeup to address all these items, but they are well documented on the Honda CX500 and GL500 Forum. In particular, check out the Quick Reference thread and the Triple Bypass Parts thread. You will also want to get a copy of the Honda factory service manual for your bike - don't even think of digging into your engine without it. A pdf copy can be downloaded for free from here. Should you have any questions, post a query on the Honda CX500 and GL500 Forum. The forum members will be eager to help.

There are several sources for replacement stators. More information can be found here.

The replacement stator will be provided with a new connector half, including the shell and terminal tabs. It should be the last thing installed after the engine has been replaced and the stator wires have been routed to the mating stator connector half. I recommend the new terminal tabs be both crimped and soldered. Unless you have the correct crimp tool it will be difficult to get a reliable connection otherwise. The last thing you want is arcing and related evils after the miles have accumulated and the wires work loose under vibration.

The original plastic connector shell has a locking tab to keep the connector halves secured together. Often the replacement connector shell is missing the locking tab. If this is the case, you may want to re-use your original connector shell if it is otherwise undamaged. The old terminal tabs can be easily removed by using a jeweler's screwdriver to press on their sides while gently pulling from the rear. Look closely at the new terminal tabs to see how they are secured in the connector shell.

The Regulator/Rectifier



The regulator/rectifier module performs two basic functions. It converts the AC voltage from the stator to a DC voltage, and it regulates the resulting voltage down to approximately 14.5 Volts as is needed by the rest of the electrical system. GL regulator/rectifiers are mounted to the bottom of the battery tray.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/RegulatorRectifier.jpg

Honda CX/GL regulator/rectifiers are extremely reliable. I have no first-hand knowledge of one ever failing. Used ones are readily available on eBay for around $20, and given their reliability I would not hesitate to install a used one should the need ever arise.

The same cannot be said for aftermarket replacements, or even regulator/rectifiers used on other motorcycle models. Aftermarket replacement regulator/rectifiers cost around $100 new, but in general they have been found to be less reliable. One manufacturer in particular has a high percentage of defective units right out of the box.

The factory service manual and some aftermarket manuals describe procedures for testing the regulator/rectifier using multimeter resistance tests. It is my opinion that the results of these tests are unreliable and cannot be trusted. These test procedures were defined back in the days when multimeters were analog and had higher test voltages. A modern digital multimeter may or may not provide similar readings.

Perhaps the sole exception would be the case where a hard short (much less than an Ohm and reads the same no matter which way the meter leads are connected) is detected between the input and output. Failing this test would indicate a bad regulator/rectifier, but passing it would be inconclusive.

My recommendation is to simply replace the regulator/rectifier with a used Honda part as a last resort if all other charging system troubleshooting tests pass. It is very unlikely that your regulator/rectifier has failed. The probability of also having a defective Honda replacement part, even if it is well-used, is extremely remote.

If the other charging systems tests all pass, it is far more likely that there is a wiring problem.

Next Steps



The common charging system problems have been pretty much covered here. If you are still having problems with your CX/GL charging system, start a thread on the Honda CX500 and GL500 Forum and someone there (possibly me) will walk you through the troubleshooting process. Please do not ask for assistance directly via email; dialog on the forum is how the collective knowledge base grows and everyone benefits. Your tough problem will likely be experienced by someone else sometime in the future.



Multimeter Usage
Main Fuse and Grounding
Charging Problems
Ignition Problems
DC Voltage Testing
Resistance Tests

[CBRRRT]

Here are some resistence values to cary out an Ohm test on the stator.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/statorcheck.jpg

[CBRRRT]

Found this tonight, and thought what a great way to build a fighter on a budget.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/superbike3.jpg

I paid just under £400.00 for the CX500 my blade was £2,300.00
It puts fighters within everyones reach.

Superb bike.

[CBRRRT]

My cables all look like they are in good shape but I thought it wise to oil them up as one of the throtle cables was a little slow to move.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00823-20110814-1055.jpg

I dont have a cable oiler so I used a sandwich bag and a lakky band

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00824-20110814-1056.jpg

I poked the cable through the bag and used the band to secure it in place.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00825-20110814-1056.jpg

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00826-20110814-1059.jpg

This is about a simple a cable oiler you can get, and it works

Put about 25ml of oil in the bag and secure it with a loose knot

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00828-20110814-1101.jpg

pump the other end of the cable a few times and wait 10 minutes while it works its way through

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00829-20110814-1101.jpg

Now and then give it a couple of pumps

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00830-20110814-1104.jpg

When you have a few drips coming out the end its done.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00831-20110814-1113.jpg

[CBRRRT]

These are my old pegs, not very cafe racer and very worn.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00836-20110815-1207.jpg

I only need the back plate off the top type as they atr the front pegs. I took the old pegs from my blade and welded the steel part to the back plate.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00848-20110815-1739.jpg

They look ok, and once the steel parts are painted I think they'll look even better.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00847-20110815-1738.jpg

I would have liked to have gone with rearsets but the way the gear shifter is set it would be a bit of a head ache.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00845-20110815-1737.jpg

[CBRRRT]

I need to start thinking about my electrics and where they are going to be mounted.

The CDI unit is easy, that can go where it was mounted

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00853-20110816-2031-1.jpg

the battery is sorted too

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00854-20110816-2037-2.jpg

This is the unit that holds the regulator and starter solonoid, and it has to go.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00856-20110816-2044-1.jpg

I have some flat bar laying around and I'm going to make my own mount

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00857-20110816-2107-2.jpg

Its simple enough to make a few bends in it and make my new mount

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00860-20110816-2153-1.jpg

I'm going to weld some 10mm nuts on the back and the mount for the starter solonoide on the underside

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00859-20110816-2146-1.jpg

I'll post the photos of the finished mount tomorrow.

[BANDITROD]

Looks good mate and that flat bar won't be able to hold the drawers in on you tool box anymore lol

[CBRRRT]

Ha Ha, you guessed it Rod. Never chuck anything away lol.

[CBRRRT]

So today I started back on the mounting fixture I did last night.

First job was to tack weld on a couple of captive nuts to hold the fegulator rec in place.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00861-20110817-0918.jpg

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00862-20110817-0918.jpg

Then run a pool weld into the open spot welds I drilled out to remove the starter solonoide rubber mounting bracket from the old mount

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00864-20110817-0921.jpg

They will grind flat.

Next I held it in place on the frame with my mole grips while I tacked in the other end. Once that was done I tacked in the battery box end.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00865-20110817-0931.jpg

Then a quick ckeck to see if everything was good

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00866-20110817-0936.jpg

And there were no issues.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00867-20110817-0937.jpg

With everything tucked away under the seat the frame is going to look really clean and minimal

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00868-20110817-0938.jpg

I just need to go through the wireing diagramme to check I'm not missing anything, then on monday we are going to the powdercoater.

Yes, youre coming too so keep watching.

[CBRRRT]

Only problem with shifting stuff around is the wires are to short, or to long.

My starter solonoid was right beside the battery on the original bike and now the live from the battery is to short.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00871-20110817-1104.jpg

I nipped into town and grabbed a few bits to tidy up things a bit, while I was there I saw this really cool old Nimbis combination

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00881-20110817-1311.jpg

The tappets are on show and you can see the valve springs

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00882-20110817-1312.jpg

Now that is something I would like to play with [:p]

Anyway I grabbed a new live lead and soldered new ends on it once it was cut to length

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00873-20110817-1112.jpg

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00876-20110817-1125.jpg

Its really chunky wire and my electric soldering iron just isnt up to the job so I dug out some of my plumbing solder and flux

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00877-20110817-1128.jpg

Now on the drawing, off the battery I have a solid red and a red/yellow plus the main live, while this is right on my bike the red and a red/yellow plus the main live are on the solonoid side, its the same thing really.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00878-20110817-1213.jpg

I made my new set up same as the old one, but I changed the 20amp glass fuse for a blade type. and as the red/yellow goes straight to the regulator rec I cut it shorter and will run it straight to it.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00879-20110817-1233.jpg

I need an earth for the battery, so I drilled and tapped out the frame for a flat head hex bolt.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00885-20110817-1444.jpg

Spot welded it to hold it in place

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00887-20110817-1631.jpg

then on the other side put a penny washer and a couple of nuts. after the powdercoat is done I'll cut round the washer to leave a good ground for the earth.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00886-20110817-1631.jpg

I'm going to run the starter wire from the solonoid to the starter motor through the frame so I drilled and filed a couple of holes

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00884-20110817-1347.jpg

On the face of it there doesnt look like much to cover my time today, but the liitle things are usually what eat up time.

[CBRRRT]

When I striped the bike down I labeled up the loom. Tonight I thought I would see if I could make some sense of it.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/IMG00889-20110817-2033.jpg

I draped the loom over the bike withe the marker for rear lights at the rear of the frame then cross referenced the loom with the drawing

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/IMG00890-20110817-2034.jpg

Working my way forward I untaped the loom looking for any dodgy wires and connections and repairing them as I went.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/IMG00891-20110817-2037.jpg

The rear of the loom is looking good and all taped back up again.

I taped half way to the front of the bike, then stopped and taped from the front to back and covered the joint with red tape. If there is a problem at a later date I can remove the red tape and unwrap forwards or to the rear of the bike.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/IMG00892-20110817-2115.jpg

Its not looking to bad at the moment and I think I should be able to make it all work. One step at a time and I'll work my way right through the job, no worries.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/IMG00894-20110817-2117.jpg

Tomorrow is another day :D

[Fight_fan]

Great stuff jon! I hate electrickery, but breaking it down into little bits at a time makes it not seem so bad! I hope no smoke escapes from the wires when u start her up!

[CBRRRT]

This would be a great little novice bike Lance as there's not much to the wiring really. I'm hoping we dont get any smoke mate, lol, the loom is in quite good condition for a 30 year old bike.

[HueyonaBlade]

your a clever little fucker;)

[Large]

If H*nda ever decides to re release the CX, I reckon this thread will become the newer and better 2012 assembly manual.

:)

[rod185651]

Just showed my girlfriend your thread. She wants you to know she feels your pain when it comes to the wiring. She just rewired the loom on her SR 250. RESPECT

[CBRRRT]

I get called a little fucker all the time Dave, but its the first lime anyone ever used the word clever in the same sentence, lol.

I went to Honda UK and asked them for the Ohm values to test my stator generator the other day BIG MAN, and they said they dont give out technical information. The guy said if I wanted to test the unit I would have to take it to a Honda service center. Really helpfull "NOT" Any way, I learn a lot from reading others threads, and I'm only to pleased to pass on what I know to help others.

Thanks for the compliment lads :D

So this morning I got down the shed and finished off the loom.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00896-20110818-1116.jpg

Everything is all labeled up and ready to go with the exception of a few very minor points like blinkers, but I think I might get LED creative with thoes.

[CBRRRT]

quote:Originally posted by rod185651

Just showed my girlfriend your thread. She wants you to know she feels your pain when it comes to the wiring. She just rewired the loom on her SR 250. RESPECT


Lol, if she wants to know about pain mate get her to do a bit of welding in flip flops (thong sandles) The air was blue in my shed the other day.

Respect to your lady mate for doing her loom herself and not dumping it in your lap.

Lady rod, big up yourself matey girl. :)

[CBRRRT]

Right then,

Heres a question; I want to keep the area under the seat, behind the engine as clear as possible so I want to run the thick black lead from my starter solonoide (under the seat) to my starter motor through my frame. The longest lead I can find in my local auto spares shop is 60cm long but I need a bit 70cm long.

The guy in the shop says to buy a set of jump leads and just cut the black lead to the length required as its the same stuff.

Is that true?

Or is the guy just trying the hard sell?

[CBRRRT]

Inside the rear engin case there is an oil seal between the water pump and the internal oily bits. I noticed when I removed the generator that the oil seal has perrished and got scale build up

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00898-20110818-1733.jpg

Lookin a bit grim

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00899-20110818-1733.jpg

I levered it out and it fell apart in my hand

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00900-20110818-1734.jpg

There was quite a bit of it left in the seat as well

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00901-20110818-1734.jpg

I gave it a clean out and checked around the outside of the case. It looks like because the seal had failed it was leaking water into the oil, and thats why it was a bit gloopy when I drained it. The other thing I noticed was there was obviously some cooland coming out of the drain hole because the seal had failed, and the previous owner thought the best cure was to plug the hole with a screw.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00902-20110818-1741.jpg

I removed the screw and the drain hole was jammed with dirt.

I was able to get a small drill bit in there with a pair of point nose pliers and get most of the dirt out

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00904-20110818-1747.jpg

Then I went in from the other side with a sharp pick

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00906-20110818-1803.jpg

I managed to clear it through and blast a bit of air through it with my compressor

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00907-20110818-1806.jpg

Now I just need to order an oil seal from David Silver Honda and it should work as it was supposed to when it rolled of the production line. If you own a CX500 - 650 or custom and you have coolant weeping out the drain hole there is a good chance the oil seal has gone, so dont just plug up the hole, change the seal.

N.B. I was thinking about this small fault last night and when buying a CX it has to be one of the things to look for when you are looking over the bike. It could be a cotly repair as the engine will need to come out as if the small drain hole has been blocked then the oil seal has gone.

Or, if you are happy to do the work yourself, then it has to be a good bargaining chip to get the price right down.

[CBRRRT]

A while back I ground in my valves and changed 4 valve adjuster screws, I didnt check the valve clearences at the time, but I'm scratching round for things to do so I'm gonna do them now.

First off I cant do it totally as the Haynes manuel describes because I have the rear engine cover off and cant line up the marks on the fly wheel with the engine case.

So, heres how I went about it.

I need the piston on the right to be at top dead center "TDC" all the valves are in the closed position.

To do this I removed both spark plugs, then rotated the fly wheel to a point where the exhaust valves opened then closed. This is the end of the cycle. The piston should be at the top of the cylinder, and to confirm this I placed a screw driver in the spark plug hole

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/001-1.jpg

I removed the screwdriver then rotated the flywheel anti-clockwise.
The inlet valves then opened and closed. You can see from the photo the push rod at the top is up, pushing the rocker and valve down, and the valve is open. If the engine was running it would be sucking in fule from the carbs

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/005-1.jpg

As it does this the piston is on its way down and the valves shut, as indicated with the screwdriver

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/006-1.jpg

Then it comes back up it compresses the fuel mixture and when the piston reaches the top of the cylinder (T.D.C.) the spark plug will spark and ignite the fuel mixture forcing the piston down. but T.D.C is where we want it to be. At this point all the valves should be shut. Rock the flywheel gently back and forth and you will see minute movements up and down of the screwdriver. When you can judge it to be half way between up and down and for a very brief moment the screw driver does'nt move you will be at T.D.C.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/007-1.jpg

I checked for signs of movement in the rockers, but there was none.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/008-1.jpg

Now we can loosen off the locking nuts on the inlet valve adjusting screws and set the gap to 0.010mm. If you are going to have a go at this check you biks manuel for gap sizes.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/009.jpg

Once you tighten up your locking nuts, re check the gap. It should bu a snug fit not to tight with just a small amount of friction when you move the feeler guage.

Do both inlet as they are on the same rocker, then do the exhaust without moving the engine flywheel. My exhaust gap is 0.012mm so I had to use two feelers. This brings me to an important point, some of the feelers are thinner than paper so be very carefull you dont have extra feelers stuck together you dont know about, that will give you the wrong gap. Its worth checking.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/010-1.jpg

So once you have done the exhaust valves, follow the methods above to do the left side

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/011.jpg

Once you've done that side give your self a pat on the back, because it wasnt as hard as you thought it would be

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/2011-02-0623.jpg

[CBRRRT]

Been busy today.

Phoned David Silver Honda this morning and got an electrex world stator generator, and water pump oil seal on order, so they should be here in a day or two, then I can get the motor back together.

Then jumped in the car and shot off to Colchester to drop my frame into Impact coatings.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00934-20110822-1301.jpg

Really nice people and the quoted me £80.00 to blast and powdercoat the frame, frame engine mount and swing arm.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00936-20110822-1302.jpg

Wasn't alowed to go any further than this, but they tell me in 7 to 10 days I should be getting a call.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00937-20110822-1302.jpg

I should have plenty to do untill then if my other bits arrive fairly soon.

[CBRRRT]

Today my Cam shaft oil seal and my Electrex world stator generator arrived, so I didnt waste any time fitting them.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00944-20110823-1514.jpg

Oil seal was a doddle to fit and only took a couple of minutes

Then decided to fit the stator generator. Its made by a company called Electrex world, Griff and Fighter MC put me onto the company when the rec/reg kept blowing on my blade. they make patten parts but better than original.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00943-20110823-1513.jpg

Heres the weard thing though, direct from electrex world the generator is £95.00 + V.A.T. And from David Silver Honda its £79.00 + the vat. Not to sure how that works, but I'm glad I checked with DSH before going direct.

Anyway, you need to use your old pickups so I cut them out of the old generator loom and threaded the wires along with the new wires through the collector block that clamps between the engin case and the cover

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00945-20110823-1529.jpg

Then threaded the wires through the rear engine case and bolted in the pickups

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00946-20110823-1533.jpg

Generator went in next

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00947-20110823-1548.jpg

They supplied new cap head bolts.

I fitted the new gasket,

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00948-20110823-1549.jpg

Then the stator cover I refinished a couple of weeks back

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00949-20110823-1553.jpg

Thats about it for now on the electrics, as I dont want to make the ends of the wires off untill I get my frame back and can guage the lengths better.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00950-20110823-1604.jpg

I made sure all the mating surfaces were clean, then placed the gasket over the engine. Then put then placed the case on the dowels and just started all the bolts through the gasket holes to make sure it all lined up.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00952-20110823-1623.jpg

Then tightened it down to the corect torque

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00954-20110823-1643.jpg

Water pump went on next with the refurbished water pipe to the rad

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00956-20110823-1652.jpg

Then the carbs, starter motor and crank case breather went on

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00967-20110823-1907.jpg

And the engin is back together, and ready for the frame to be bolted over it.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00966-20110823-1759.jpg

The hours spent on the little fiddley bits were worth while and I'm pleased with the overall look of the motor.

[Tony Nitrous]

quote:Originally posted by CBRRRT

Really nice people and the quoted me £80.00 to blast and powdercoat the frame, frame engine mount and swing arm.
http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00936-20110822-1302.jpg


Do they do much bike stuff ?

If I use someone who doesnt I normaly put old bolts into
the threaded holes, nut's onto threads,and use a piece of
threaded bar and some washers through the headstock,
swingarm pivot etc etc.

Some places are used to bike stuff.
Others will just coat EVERYTHING. Seen it done.

[CBRRRT]

They seem to do a few bikes mate, and showed me a frame while I was there, but I did the same as you mate and stuck threaded rod through the head stock with mdf disks covering up the bits I dont want blasted or coated

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00890-20110817-2034.jpg

Did the swing arm mount too.

Good heads up though mate, cheers :D

[Tony Nitrous]

Sorry, I missed that in the 1st pic.

I normaly thread a few nuts onto places like the
top shock mounts etc. Makes life easier later on !

[CBRRRT]

Good point, I never even thought about those. I did put a penny washer and a couple of nuts over my earth bonding point though. I guess I might have to go round and tap out a few threads, but still, I'll remember on the next one mate.

[megawatt]

Great write up this mate, but please stop putting your ugly mug in the threads. It's scaring the kids!!!

[CBRRRT]

Consider it done Alan, lol.

[Tony Nitrous]

quote:Originally posted by megawatt

please stop putting your ugly mug in the threads.
It's scaring the kids!!!

I put that pic in a frame over the fireplace.
It keeps the kids away from the fire....;)

[CBRRRT]

I know mate, I've got a face like a burnt out back tyre, lol.

[BANDITROD]

Hey Jon as for the earth lead to the starter I used earth cable that is normally used on car amps most auto shops carry it on a roll ...fuck cutting up jumper cables that's a damn waste

[Tony Nitrous]

In the UK i used to use car starter motor leads.

Halfords used to do them in several pre-made lengths
with crimped on ends to put a bolt through.

Cheap, length to suit, worked fine.

[CBRRRT]

Thanks lads, tomorrow I have to go into town so I'll chip into euro car parts, they are massive and have huge auto parts wearhouses all over the uk.

And Tony, dont put that pboto anywhere near your fridge mate coz my face can sour milk, lol.

Its like a box full of bad memories buddy, ha ha.

[LKC73]

Mate again, great work. The detail on this thread is awesome.

[Surt]

im completely out of line jon wat r u doin did ya trade ur fire cunt for that litle bugga o wat?!

[CBRRRT]

quote:Originally posted by LKC73

Mate again, great work. The detail on this thread is awesome.


Thank you matey, I enjoy doing it, and try to take as many photos on my phone as I can to make it as interesting as I can for you guys that take time out to pop into my e-shed. I have a bit about rebuilding callipers soon so keep sticking your head through the door mate and let me know what you think. :D

[CBRRRT]

quote:Originally posted by Surt

im completely out of line jon wat r u doin did ya trade ur fire cunt for that litle bugga o wat?!


No mate, I still have the blade sitting in the corner of my shed, this one is to give me something to do in the evenings while the big boss (Poppet) is at work.

[CBRRRT]

The front break callipers like everything else on this bike needed looking at, so some time back I took them apart, then cleaned them up a bit ready for re-finishing.

I orded up a set of new seals and when they arrived got stuck into doing them up.

First thing I had to do was clean out the gunge from the groove where the seal sits

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00969-20110824-1458.jpg

Easy little job with one of these hobby tools. Mine is made by Silverline and only cost about 20 quid.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/dremel.jpg

Done in seconds.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00970-20110824-1459.jpg

Next I masked up everything I didnt want paint on

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00972-20110824-1502.jpg

Then gave it a shot of acid etch primer. This stuff is horrible, and I've poisened myself a couple of times with it so be carefull and wear breathing [u]AND</u> eye protection, as a painter friend of mine tells me it can be absorbed through the eyes and poisen you that way.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00973-20110824-1517.jpg

Two of them, then two of the top stuff. I used engine enamel as its heat resistant, and is about 1/3 of the cost of calliper paint. Just remember to wash down the calipers when youre bleeding them.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00975-20110824-1517.jpg

I left mine to cure for 3 or 4 days before handling them.

[CBRRRT]

So the bodys are painted and the other parts cleaned, they are ready to go back together.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00983-20110825-1910.jpg

The oil seal is the first thing to go back is, and needs a good coat of break fluid to lube it and seat it in the groove.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00984-20110825-1915.jpg

Same goes for the piston. Dont use anything but break fluid to lube these parts or you might contaminate your fluid when you bleed the breaks through.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00987-20110825-1916.jpg

Should be a nice snug push fit.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00988-20110825-1918.jpg

Next fit the dust seal and hold it in place with the circle clip.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00989-20110825-1919.jpg

Then the bleed nipple went in

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00992-20110825-1921.jpg

The other half of the calliper has two pins that locate into two holes, a little copper slip will help them to move inside the holes

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00996-20110825-1925.jpg

Next I changed the old bolts for same size thread, stainless cap head bolts. I think they look good against the gloss black

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00997-20110825-1930.jpg

Once they were both done I went over them with a water soaked rag just to remove any break fluid that may have got on to the paint.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00998-20110825-1952.jpg

I'll wait until I have them back on before I fit the new pads.

Another job done and another box ticked. I think I might have a go at polishing the top yoke tomorrow.

[CBRRRT]

Mini update on the pegs

I cut the original pegs up from my fireblade and welded them to the back plates of the CX.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00847-20110815-1738-1.jpg

They are now painted

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00978-20110825-1858.jpg

And back together and ready to fit when the frame gets back from powdercoat.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00982-20110825-1906.jpg

The box of bits to do up is getting smaller every day. :D

[BANDITROD]

Great stuff Jon your threads the are fucking awesome

[ALBI]

ah man why did you have to use the silly cum?? i get up the mechs at work when they use that shit ,that is wat the seal is for hmmmmmmm not impressed mate

[CBRRRT]

Thanks Rod. :D

Sorry Albi. :(

I'm a carpenter Albi, and I only go on what other people advise me mate. I've been told the O rings on their own are not that great and to back them up with silicon. Remember how cruddy the engine was when I took it out? Well quite a lot of that was water from a leaking cooling system. The last thing I want is to do all this work and it ends up with ongoing problems.

http://i24.servimg.com/u/f24/16/54/85/08/img00310.jpg

Sorry to disapoint you mate, but I thought with my limited knowledge in mechanics it was the best way to go.

I would be greatfull for any input why its not a good idea to use it mate, and is there an alternative to it. Thanks for your input Albi, I'm always interested in learning new things mate, and welcome advice from where ever I can get it. :)

[CBRRRT]

I brought this today, Its a Ducati 748 electric fan.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG01000-20110826-1144.jpg

If you remember a while back I removed the temp sender unit from the thermostat housing and replaced it with a thermal switch.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00774-20110803-1800-1.jpg

I removed the fan to give the housing a good clean and measure up for brackets to fix it to the CX cowling.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG01004-20110826-1159-1.jpg

To get it as near to center as I could I needed my fixing brackets to be 35mm

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG01002-20110826-1153-1.jpg

They were simple enough to do, as I just cut down a couple of angle brackets I had laying round. I drilled the CX cowel and bolted it into place

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG01008-20110826-1312-1.jpg

I like the look of the CX cowling so I wanted to keep it, and any changes I make wont be that obvious because it will all be hidden inside it.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG01009-20110826-1313-1.jpg

So now it just needs paint to bring it in with the existing set up.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG01011-20110826-1323-1.jpg

Next I'm gonna be extending the leads on the fan its self.

[CBRRRT]

I'm quite confident the 748 fan will do the business cooling the motor as its designed to do from the Ducati 748 up to the 999, and although the Ducati is a L twin apposed the other way its still a twin and so is the CX500.

Now then, soldering wires.

When I was a kid my Dad taught me how to solder wiring, and I've done it this way ever since without problems. My Dad used soldering flux and so do I, although I have been told by quite a few people I shouldnt. I did try to solder without flux but I cant get the solder to run or stick. My mate Porky said when he tried to solder he had the same problem, so he gave up. I showed him what my Dad taught me and what works, works. Now Pork has no problems soldering. If you also have had issues with soldering this is what I do.

First cut your wire to the length you require then trim back the outer coating and twist the end then add flux.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG01014-20110826-1342-1.jpg

Do this to both ends of the wire you want to join, then twist the two ends together. Apply solder to the ens of your iron and hold it under, but touching the joint. As the flux burns off it will suck the solder up into the wire. Then with the iron still under the wire touch the top of the wire with solder to get a really good covering and a strong bond.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG01015-20110826-1344-1.jpg

Remove the iron and it will set almost instantly, but be careful as it will still be very hot.

Once it cools down just wipe off any flux thats left on the wire with a rag, then slip a section of schrink tube over the joint.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG01017-20110826-1348-1.jpg

I like to use a hot ait paint stripper gun to schrink it down as there is less chance of burning the wire than if I use a flame.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG01019-20110826-1356-1.jpg

And thats about it really. not hard to do, and its worked for me for 30 years, so why change now.

As soon as the paint dries on the cowel I'll get the fan bolted back on, but for now I'll figure out what I'm going to take my switched live feed from.

[CBRRRT]

Oh yeah, nearly forgot. I went to euro car parts and got 1 meter of auto starter cable o/d 8.2mm 110amp 16mm cable for £2.85

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00999-20110826-1143.jpg

Much cheaper than buying a set of jump leads, thanks Rod :D.

[Surt]

quote:Originally posted by CBRRRT


quote:Originally posted by Surt

im completely out of line jon wat r u doin did ya trade ur fire cunt for that litle bugga o wat?!


No mate, I still have the blade sitting in the corner of my shed, this one is to give me something to do in the evenings while the big boss (Poppet) is at work.


hopefully u dont send her to earn u a coin in the streets u pimp? and why dont u ride out in the evening by ur blade or give a ride for some jail bait?

ots i like wat u do to the kettle just 2 remarks 1. the frame is to weak right behind the neck, i used to re weld 1 a while ago ideally ought to be strenthen in that place 2. i have the similar carbies from cb450 and i was said that pod filters r no go for them they need an aircleaner over both mouths or cv's will not work

[CBRRRT]

Oh man, its a shame I didn't know about the frame before I sent it to be powdercoated mate. Oh well, it is what it is now.

I've been advised I will need to re-jet the carbs mate because of the filters and the stubby exhaust, but wasn't aware of the issues you talk about Surt. We have a dyno near my town so I thought I would bung it on there and let them dial in the carbs mate.

Thanks for that mate its something to think about for sure.

[Surt]

no probs mate but its not jet issue but vacuum cameras issue they need air draw caused by long runners and air cleaner pod filters cant make that draw thats wat i was said about the bloody cb450 keihins and thats wy i opted for bimmers bings maybe u can find some better carbies if urs will bull shit u so dont give up Jon

[CBRRRT]

Thanks mate, I'll check it out and tru to find out what make my carbs are. They had the makers name on the top of them, but I filed it off to polish them up, DOH!!!

[CBRRRT]

While I'm on the subject of polishing I had a go at my yokes this evening.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG01020-20110826-1809.jpg

I'm not going to bore the pants of you with a step by step because I think its about as interesting as watching paint dry. Instead I'll just bung up a few photos.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG01021-20110826-2008.jpg

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG01022-20110826-2027.jpg

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG01023-20110826-2145.jpg

I'm going to go over them again at a later date, but I hate polishing alloy so I'm going to leave it at that for now.

[CBRRRT]

Got the fan mounted in the new and improved CX mount this morning, but I need the motormount thats in powdercoat at the moment before I can make off the wiring.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG01027-20110827-1015.jpg

Once the radiator is back on you wont be able to see the changes I made.

Its one of those mods thats good to do, but you dont need to see it.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG01028-20110827-1016.jpg

Thats that then for now anyway.

[BANDITROD]

quote:Originally posted by CBRRRT

Oh yeah, nearly forgot. I went to euro car parts and got 1 meter of auto starter cable o/d 8.2mm 110amp 16mm cable for £2.85

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG00999-20110826-1143.jpg

Much cheaper than buying a set of jump leads, thanks Rod :D.
No probs at all mate happy to help

[CBRRRT]

I filled my forks with 15w fork oil this afternoon, so now they are ready for a final fit.

While I was doing it I was looking at the lower halfs and thought they would look good with just a light polishing rather than powdercoat or paint. I like the retro look and thought they might look over restored if I went to town on them

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG01029-20110827-1522.jpg

So I spent no more than 15 minutes on each leg, and I'm happy with the result.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG01031-20110827-1524.jpg

Calipers are all done, so they can go on, as can the yokes

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG01033-20110827-1533.jpg

I'mreally pleased with the calipers as its the first time I've ever serviced a set.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG01036-20110827-1549.jpg

I would never have believed a CX front end could come up so nice

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG01035-20110827-1548.jpg

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG01038-20110827-1550-1.jpg

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG01039-20110827-1550.jpg

When the frame coms back it shouldnt take to long to put somethig together that resembles a bike.

[LKC73]

Nice work mate, them forks look great. Calipers come up awesome.

[CBRRRT]

Thanks mate.

Today's been a bit of a slow day. I have been looking at the front fender. Now I'm not 100% sure I'm going to go with one yet, but I think I'll need to have one on when it goes for its MOT test.

The CX fender is not a bad shape, but its way, way to big, so I'm going to have to amputate.

I covered the parts I want to cut with masking tape to give me a good surface to mark up on.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG01042-20110828-1217.jpg

I put a thin cutting blade in my grinder and carfully followed the line.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG01043-20110828-1221.jpg

It will need a tidy up with a file but the grinder saves a lot of work and time.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG01044-20110828-1223.jpg

The sides also need a bit of a trim, and I used the same method to chop them.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG01047-20110828-1233.jpg

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG01048-20110828-1233.jpg

The fender is chrome and a bit rough looking so I'll paint it in with the seat and tank.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG01050-20110828-1243.jpg

I went over it with a wire wheel in my drill but I think its going to need blasting to get a surface good enough to paint.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG01051-20110828-1530.jpg

[CBRRRT]

Tonight I did a bit more to the front fender, I thought it needed a few holes in it to cafe it up a bit more.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG01061-20110831-1751.jpg

I went over it with my power file then filled the whole thing

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG01062-20110831-1758.jpg

Then cut it back with 120 grit

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG01064-20110831-1926.jpg

Then 400 grit wet and dry.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af77/CBRRRT/Cafe%20Racer%20%20CX500/IMG01066-20110831-1939.jpg

I need to focus on the seat now, then it can go to paint.

[Gix11]

If there was a "best topic ever" award I think I'd know which person it would go to.

[BANDITROD]

Spot on there si

[ALBI]

quote:Originally posted by Gix11

If there was a "best topic ever" award I think I'd know which person it would go to.


well do it si!!!!!;)

[ALBI]

quote:Originally posted by CBRRRT

Thanks Rod. :D

Sorry Albi. :(


[^]"""dont worry mate it's all good you should see state the TL1000 is in at the mo?? a big lack of maintanence on my behalf lol"""

I'm a carpenter Albi, and I only go on what other people advise me mate. I've been told the O rings on their own are not that great and to back them up with silicon. Remember how cruddy the engine was when I took it out? Well quite a lot of that was water from a leaking cooling system. The last thing I want is to do all this work and it ends up with ongoing problems.

"" if you re-use the old o-ring as there isnt a replacement avail fairenough!!!
but when you use a new one the best way to ensure a true seal is to use just the o-ring "but sometime's if the ring falls outwhile trying to fit the part, i use contact adhesive in small dose's and glue the ring onto part as only to hold in place ,if the surface is flat and clean it will seal.

http://i24.servimg.com/u/f24/16/54/85/08/img00310.jpg

Sorry to disapoint you mate, but I thought with my limited knowledge in mechanics it was the best way to go.

I would be greatfull for any input why its not a good idea to use it mate, and is there an alternative to it. Thanks for your input Albi, I'm always interested in learning new things mate, and welcome advice from where ever I can get it. :)