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ALBI
02-07-2011, 06:48 PM
Posted - 01 Jul 2011 : 17:38:58
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Holy moley that's outrageous mate, don't what ever you do tell our government mate, they are always looking for new ways to cripple us.


mate you poor bugger's have the royal family!!
you are already crippled !!

ALBI
02-07-2011, 06:53 PM
hey mate what is the mate the seat plug in on ??

Gitzy
02-07-2011, 07:44 PM
quote:Originally posted by CBRRRT


Total £239.00



Geez thats alright Jon..

I get raped every year..

R1 - $800ish
TL - $700ish
XR - now $600

$2100 or £1400 :(

CBRRRT
02-07-2011, 08:59 PM
Its just a bit of old floor vinyl mate, hot glued on so I can get a lip to the mould and add a bit of stiffness to it. You'll see what I mean in this next bit.

Right then,

Fiberglass. The thing about fiberglassing is preperation. Make sure you have everything to hand, then either cut up or tear your matting to the sizees you need. Remember big bits wont go round corners as easy as little bits and if you rip the edges they will overlap much better too

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00438.jpg

The guid on the can says 2cm of hardner to 100ml of resin. the can holds 500ml so 5cm of hardner for one of my paper cups should be about right as they hold around 250ml

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00439.jpg

I like to get a coat of resin on then add the matting and apply another coat of resin to wet it right in

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00440.jpg

The first layer is really important as that will be the outside face of the finish pod so take care to get it right. A few minor imperfections are no biggy as they can be got out with a little body filler

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00441.jpg

After that its just about getting the layers on. I'm gonna do a 3 layer seat so the mould needs to be 5 or six layers as it needs to be really ridiged.

Now it can sit and cure for about 48 hours then i'll remove the plug.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00442.jpg

xa-mont
02-07-2011, 09:08 PM
i love your writeups man. very informative.

CBRRRT
03-07-2011, 12:46 AM
Thanks bro, it gives me something to do and think about.

FIGHTERMC
03-07-2011, 02:08 AM
good stuff Jon
turning out nice mate

03-07-2011, 02:18 AM
looking good john,love the tail

CBRRRT
03-07-2011, 02:57 AM
Thanks fella's, tomorrow I'll relese the mould and see it it came out alright.

ALBI
03-07-2011, 02:29 PM
with the fibre matt you said chopped or cut ?? if i remember when i did this in high school ,shouldnt the matt always be torn/pulled apart so the fibre can interlock when layed up with the resin to give better strengh ??

or is it because its the plug not the seat you are making and it dont matter how its laid ???

xa-mont
03-07-2011, 03:24 PM
i think the bits that are cut are more for accuracy and then where possible it is just torn.

CBRRRT
03-07-2011, 05:49 PM
The bits I cut were around the curved back of the seat and the seat pad, as I said, then either cut up, or tear your matting to the sizees you need. Remember big bits wont go round corners as easy as little bits and [u]if you rip the edges they will overlap much better too</u>

If you check out photo 3 you'll see what I mean mate.

CBRRRT
03-07-2011, 06:20 PM
Well I got up this morning and decided to pop the mould off the plug

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00443.jpg

I cleaned it up and trimmmed the edges with a hacksaw blade in my jigsaw

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00444.jpg

There are a few small air bubbles on the inside, but I'll sort those out with a little body filler

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00445.jpg

First time I've attempted a seat, and so far its all gone to plan

rod185651
03-07-2011, 06:51 PM
I reckon you should start selling these mate.

BANDITROD
03-07-2011, 08:45 PM
Fucking awesome stuff Jon take a bow mate

CBRRRT
03-07-2011, 09:43 PM
Thanks fealla's, I might sell a few when the bike is finished, but at the moment my evenings and weekends are taken up with the build. A few minor bits to do to the mould where the odd air buble formed. I'll fill those with car body filler then wet and dry the inside nice and smooth, although that said, if there were any imperfections in the final unit I could fill those also.

Forever onward as they say, I'm off to borrow Porky's mig welder this afternoon.

LKC73
03-07-2011, 11:31 PM
CBRRT, you say its your first effort, but man it looks like you have done this a couple of times before. Awesome work I must say buddy. Hats off to ya.

CBRRRT
04-07-2011, 12:40 AM
I made a mask for my blade mate, but never a seat unit. Thanks for the compliment though fella.

CBRRRT
04-07-2011, 07:47 AM
The sexy side of the CX'y500

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/_mg_0710.jpg

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/_mg_9210.jpg

Am I winning you over yet, lol :D

xa-mont
04-07-2011, 09:23 AM
that's mint mate. Nice job on the glassing... so ... now to make it out of CF right? :P

wackyrider
04-07-2011, 10:46 AM
Oh, now there's an idea for you Jon. Make it out of CF... Go on, u know u wanna

CBRRRT
04-07-2011, 02:59 PM
Hey, now that IS a good idea. I like it [:p] I'll look into it and see what I can find out, thanks fellas :D

xa-mont
04-07-2011, 03:04 PM
that's the spirit!

CBRRRT
06-07-2011, 06:27 AM
Time to get the heads back on.

I applied silicon to both sides of the head gasket and droped the heads back on.
Next I greased both ends of the push rods and put them on to the followers.
The rockers went on next and the four head bolts went in.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00446.jpg

The head bolts need to be tightened in the correct order to prevent the head warping.
there is a torque setting for the head bolts of 36 ft lb

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00447.jpg

I was advised by my mate to start at 15 ft lb's and tighten to the sequence shown
working up 5 ft lb at a time untill I reached the maximum shown in the Haynes manual

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00448.jpg

There we are then, back on.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00449.jpg

I'm pleased that I learned how to use my torque wrench, and think its going to
be a real asset on this build

My mate Rob was the second pair of hands tha held the engine for me while I
tightened everything up and gave me some sound advice.

I think I'm gonna start pulling the carbs apart next so I'll be hunting for
a carb rebuild gasket set next. While I do that I'll get to welding the frame mods.

CBRRRT
08-07-2011, 06:56 AM
Tonight I thought I might add a bit of bling to the project, so I gave these bad boys a look

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00450.jpg

I started with 240 wet and dry then went finer until I got to polish

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00451.jpg

I'll do the other one when I get in tomorrow.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00452.jpg

xa-mont
08-07-2011, 07:55 AM
pimp'n

fimpBIKES
08-07-2011, 12:25 PM
got to show them off on this build

LKC73
08-07-2011, 03:31 PM
Looking good man.

CBRRRT
10-07-2011, 01:17 AM
Done a bit more to the mold today, I started with 240 wet and dry then went to 400, 600, and finished up with 1200 then T cut to get it as shiney inside as I could. Now ten coats of wax.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00453.jpg

While I was looking through my Hains, I saw that the cooling system was all push-fit with O rings. I have some on order but thought I would have it all apart while I'm waiting.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00510.jpg

I'm glad I did, because it was proper rotten and I believe it would have leaked if I had just put it back.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00511.jpg

Everythings cleaned up now and I'll set about polishing the end bends tomorrow morning. When I put it back together I'll repaint the tubes and I think I will also use a bit of silicon to back up the rubber O rings.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00512.jpg

I also polished the other rocker cover today and gave the engine another going over. I plan to paint the motor so I want it as clean as I can get it.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00513.jpg

BANDITROD
10-07-2011, 04:56 PM
Looking good Jon

CBRRRT
10-07-2011, 05:14 PM
Thanks matey

LKC73
10-07-2011, 08:01 PM
Nice one mate, this thing wont know what hit when your done. Be better then factory.

CBRRRT
10-07-2011, 08:44 PM
On the clutch cover at the front of the motor there is the Honda logo

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00514.jpg

On each side of the motor there are two Honda badges with small screw fixings.

A bit of a logo overload I think. I rekon if you know a bit about bikes then you know what a CX500 looks like and who made it, so I decided to dump the small Honda badges on the side of the motor,

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/engin_10.jpg

and got my mate's mate to make me a couple of these bad boys on his water jet. He just text me this photo of them, and I'll get my hands on them tomorrow at work. :D

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/untitl11.jpg

CBRRRT
11-07-2011, 12:35 AM
On the front of the motor is the oil pressure sensor and there Is a wire that although cliped at one point, is a bit messy as it goes where it wants

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00515.jpg

It has a braided protective sleeve, that can work in my vavor.
I removed the copper wire fron 230v 2.5 twin and earth house socket wire and slipped it inside the sleeve to enable me to put positive bends into it and guide the wire where [u]I WANT IT</u> to go.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00516.jpg

I clipped it to the engine and the thermostat mount and made off the ends

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00517.jpg

Now it all sits where I want it. I might be a silly little thing, but all these little things add up

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00518.jpg

Fight_fan
11-07-2011, 07:26 AM
its all the little details that add up mate! Good stuff!

wackyrider
11-07-2011, 08:22 AM
You might have some issues with those o-rings sealing. If u know anyone who has a welder and a lathe, you might wanna give them a bit of a touch-up. Other than that, the project is looking great mate

CBRRRT
11-07-2011, 02:20 PM
I dont think I'm gonna rely just on the O rings mate, I'm also gonna silicon them in too.
It would be a real pain to get it all back together and find a leak, so its belt AND braces matey.

Watto
11-07-2011, 02:39 PM
great work mate

CBRRRT
11-07-2011, 02:58 PM
Thanks fella.

CBRRRT
12-07-2011, 07:54 AM
I've had a good day today.

Work was ok, then I got home to find my O ring set had arrived

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00519.jpg

Porky dropped off his mig welder

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00520.jpg

So I choped of the mangled head on the oil filter bolt and welded a new, bigger and better bolt head onto the stem

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00521.jpg

Yup, been a good day.

I'll start on my frame mods tomorrow.

CBRRRT
13-07-2011, 07:58 AM
Welding again tonight :D

I started by putting the plywood base from the plug I made on the frame and making a card template of the bracket I want to make.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00522.jpg

Next I used the card template to mark up my steel angle, then put a hacksaw blade in my jigsaw to allow it to cut a curve.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00523.jpg

The rest of it I cut out with my mini grinder

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00524.jpg

smartened that up no end.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00525.jpg

Now the two halves get seperated.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00526.jpg

and one gets welded on.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00527.jpg


Next I leveled the frame by putting packers under the center stand.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00528.jpg

And kept checking the level of the frame untill I got it right.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00529.jpg

Once I was happy the frame was ok, I tacked on the other side, and leveled it in.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00530.jpg

So far so good.

So both supports are on, and when I have made my seat I will drill and tap holes in the mounts to screw it down to

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00531.jpg

I used the mould to mock up with

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00532.jpg

and give me a line to cut back the sub-frame rails to.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00533.jpg

I'm going to mount the battery in between them.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00534.jpg

Look at all that space under there.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00535.jpg

More tomorrow night.

BANDITROD
13-07-2011, 12:00 PM
Looking good Jon inst it great when things just work

houdini
13-07-2011, 01:38 PM
looking good man

CBRRRT
13-07-2011, 02:26 PM
Thanks lads, I'm new to welding and didnt know just how piss easy it is to mig weld.
I wish I had known when I did the blade, oh well.

Gix11
13-07-2011, 05:25 PM
Mate, this photo blew me away:

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00524.jpg

You even managed to take that while you're doing all this work just for us! You're a bloody champion mate!

CBRRRT
13-07-2011, 10:17 PM
Lol, cheers Si, I was smoking a fag and drinking a beer to at the same time. Lol.

FIGHTERMC
13-07-2011, 11:19 PM
good stuff jon.keep the pics comin

CBRRRT
14-07-2011, 06:53 AM
I'll do my best Frank.
Heres a few more for you fella.

Tonight I got in and made a start on the battery box.

I want it mounted under the pod so I can keep the area behind the engine clean and clear.

I'm using angle section and cuting it inbetween the frame

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00536.jpg

After a bit of measuring and leveling I taped the first bit into place

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00537.jpg

Then tacked it

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00538.jpg

The other side was made the same way, and welded to the frame and the other section.

Battery sat in there nice, with space for a little foam rubber to protect my battery from the frame.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00539.jpg

I moved the bike outside to get a better look at it.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00540.jpg

The battery sits under there a nice snug fit

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00541.jpg

I then cut a couple of plugs to go over the ends of the frame

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00543.jpg

Got them in and ground to fit.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00544.jpg

The battery look really high sitting in the box,

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00545.jpg

But its not an issue

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00546.jpg

Thats that then. Now I can break down the frame and grind off any lugs that are not needed.

But before I do anything, I'm gonna clean up this mess.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00547.jpg

14-07-2011, 10:52 AM
looking good jon,fair play i didnt knw u could weld.I must learn,bike looking lovely,whats next after the cx?

CBRRRT
14-07-2011, 01:55 PM
I'm new to welding Neily, my mates had a mig and I needed some welding done, so I thought what the hell, I'll give it a go. Turns out its really easy to do matey.

Next project?

I aint thought that far ahead buddy. I stuck my head in your thread the other day mate and the Blade is looking sweet as a nut. I love that tail and zorst you have on there.

Fight_fan
14-07-2011, 03:09 PM
quote:Originally posted by CBRRRT


Next project?

I aint thought that far ahead buddy.


U might want to! The speed ur goin at with this one it'l be done in another week or two! ;)

ALBI
14-07-2011, 05:35 PM
JUST THINK MATE OPPS CAPS LOCK!! if the batt goes up you can always say you have a hot arse!!

CBRRRT
14-07-2011, 07:29 PM
Lmaro. I thought last night if that goes up its gonna sting matey.

CBRRRT
15-07-2011, 06:09 AM
To shave a few lbs and up the power to weight ratio, the center stand has got to go, and as much of the mount I can chop without weakening the side stand mount.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00548.jpg

some of it was a bit awkward to get to, but I managed to tidy it up with my mini grinder.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00549.jpg

Next I droped out the swing arm

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00550.jpg

Next I ground off any redundant mounts to clean up the frame.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00551.jpg

There we are then, next I'll drop out the front end and the frame will be ready for powdercoat.

I dont have anything to do to the swing arm except remove the shaft drive dif.

While the frame is away I can get on with renovating the diff, the carbs, the forks............... well you get the idea, still loads to do.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00552.jpg

BANDITROD
15-07-2011, 08:59 AM
So eta on finished product ....the way your moving it will be next Thursday I reckon

CBRRRT
15-07-2011, 03:26 PM
A.M. or P.M. mate, lol.

Large
15-07-2011, 04:04 PM
http://img9.uploadhouse.com/fileuploads/12666/126660596333566ba7f52549e9ae743965638d84.jpg

:)

timbo
15-07-2011, 04:07 PM
Would you just stop it your making us look bad lol with all this work your doing in such a short time frame. Looking good btw

latheboy
15-07-2011, 04:28 PM
I think your power to weight ratio is going up just by cleaning it:D

Looking great, I always enjoy your build/s

ALBI
15-07-2011, 05:49 PM
if you want to get rid of more weight loose the honda badges? there is enough of them

phil delivers
15-07-2011, 06:36 PM
Less is more......

CBRRRT
16-07-2011, 05:34 AM
Get on bord timbo and crack on mate, lol. I might slow down for a rew moments to admire the big mans delivery girl. Yup thats done lol.

I agree lads, its Honda logo overload, they even etched it at the end of every spoke.

While I was at work today I was thinking how racer it would be to drill the battery box to lighten it up a bit. I really dont think it will make that much difference, but it might look cool.

When I got in I marked out a grid and dot punched it, then drilled smal pilot holes.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00553.jpg

Then opened the holes slightly with a bigger bit.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00554.jpg

Until I got to where I was happy with the hole size.

Might not look much now, but I think it will add to the over all effect.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00555.jpg

Swing arm was next.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00556.jpg

Be really carfull removing the wheel because the pads are made with asbestos and there may be dust in the drum you'll want to avoid, so for goodness sake dont blow it out and get a lung full.

Right, diff off next

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00557.jpg

The three nuts that held it on were really tight, so I stuck it in my vice to get em undun.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00558.jpg

And thats the frame stripped ready to go for blasting and powdercoat.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00559.jpg

While its gone I have plenty to get on with including new fork seals

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00560.jpg

And removing the tyres so I can get the rims refinished.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00561.jpg

CBRRRT
16-07-2011, 10:59 PM
I was supposed to be working today building a garden wall, but the rain had other ideas about that.

I came home and started on the fan cowling

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00562.jpg

I cleaned it up a while back ready for painting, and removed the rubber baffels. They were cracked and perrished and need to be replaced. I have no idea what Honda replacements would cost, if you can get them. So I decided to make my own from a thick lorry innertube.

First I used the old one to make a template

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00563.jpg

Next I cut a section of rubber and cleaned it with meths

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00564.jpg

Sat the template on it and held it flat with a few bolts, then gave it a dust over with spray paint.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00565.jpg

Then cut it out with strong sissors

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00566.jpg

I'll cut the slots and holes once the cowel has been painted.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00567.jpg

While I'm painting the cowel I thought I would prep a few other bit and bobs for paint.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00568.jpg

So the dirt shield came off and got the treatment.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00569.jpg

Make sure to remove any dirt and grease before painting to give the paint a good chance of keying to the metal.

I use meths, but pre-paint is also the business.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00570.jpg

The Diff was ok, and looks a bit complicated so there is 2 good reasons to leave it alone. I'll give it a good clean and paint and stick it back on when the frame gets back.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00571.jpg

BANDITROD
16-07-2011, 11:34 PM
Good stuff Jon

CBRRRT
17-07-2011, 01:49 AM
Thanks Rod.

So this after noon I've been cleaning, preping and painting parts

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00572.jpg

Then turned my attentsion to my yokes. I want to paint the lower yoke and polish the top yoke.

Problem is these lines. They are left by the joint in the two sides of the mold when the part is cast.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00573.jpg

and they go right round the part.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00574.jpg

I guess the factory see them as unnessary costly to remove, bit I think the part looks better without them.

They are not hard to remove with a file and aluminium oxide paper

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00575.jpg

Take a little time and use round back or rat tail files

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00610.jpg

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00611.jpg

Theres a job I can do infront of the telly, flatten them off with wet and dry paper ready to polish.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00612.jpg

The bottom yoke is made from cast steel so I gave that a blast of paint too.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00613.jpg

Well the weather front seems to have passed over so tomorrow I'll go build the garden wall I was going to do today, that will cover the cost of the frame powder coating next Saturday.

FIGHTERMC
17-07-2011, 06:16 AM
come on jon is this not finished yet.LOL

pav69
17-07-2011, 08:50 AM
mate that top yoke is going to be a real bugger to polish ,but otherwise this is coming along very nice

CBRRRT
17-07-2011, 01:42 PM
quote:Originally posted by FIGHTERMC

come on jon is this not finished yet.LOL



Sorry Frank, I must be slackin off a bit to much mate, I'll start trying a bit harder fella, :D lol.

CBRRRT
17-07-2011, 01:46 PM
quote:Originally posted by pav69

mate that top yoke is going to be a real bugger to polish ,but otherwise this is coming along very nice


Hi mate,

I think once its done and on the bike, I can always pop off the top bar clamp/fuse box to clean and polish. But I'm hoping it will be sold by then and I can get on with the next project. :D

CBRRRT
18-07-2011, 03:44 AM
One of the sides has come away from my radiator, when I looked it had solder on the back of the joint.

I have soldering equipment so I thought I would have a go at repairing it myself.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00614.jpg

First I added flux, this is an acid the will clean the surfaces when its heated.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00615.jpg

Next I gently applied pressure to bring the two parts together with a clamp

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00616.jpg

Then applied heat to activate the flux then melt the lead solder

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00617.jpg

after a few moments the solder will bond

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00618.jpg

Then the clamp can be removed

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00619.jpg

CBRRRT
19-07-2011, 08:10 AM
Theres a show on tv called Wheeler Dealers.

The host buys cars on a budget, then takes them to his mechanic, where he restores them and they then sell the car on for a profit.

I like the show, but one aspect of it bugs the life out of me.

The mechanic will fit a brand new shiney part then use rusty old screws and bolts to hold it in place.

Not me, not on this project.

So tonight I decided to give all my bolts a good going over to brighten them right up

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00624.jpg

Its worth the effort, and will make a huge difference to the finished project

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00625.jpg

Well, if I wasnt doing this I'd just be stuck infront of the telly

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00626.jpg

another job, jobbed!!!

ALBI
19-07-2011, 12:54 PM
that and his fuggin orange gloves lol ,and wat is with the grey streak in his hair???

CBRRRT
19-07-2011, 02:37 PM
Nope, you lost me there ALBI!!!???

CBRRRT
19-07-2011, 02:40 PM
Ohhhhhh, Ed China, yeah I'm with you now.

Sorry I'm a bit slow today, lol.

CBRRRT
24-07-2011, 08:07 AM
I fitted the new rubber baffels I made from a lorry innertube today.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00627.jpg

Pop rivets are a life saver

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00628.jpg

I'm pleased with the outcome, it sits really nice.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00629.jpg

ALBI
24-07-2011, 11:11 AM
i realy cant wait to see this done mate!! not a bike id do ,but now hmmm somthing different is always good
well done so far .
yeh mate ed china lol always in orange gloves .

CBRRRT
24-07-2011, 03:38 PM
Me too Albi, I was thinking the other day I could stick on cafe bars one day and ride a cafe racer, then Renthalls the next and have a cafe fighter. I think its going to be quite a versitile build.

The shaft drive diff got a good clean and degrease ready for its make over

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00630.jpg

Next it got two coats of primer

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00631.jpg

And three top coats.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00632.jpg

I used Simoniz aloy wheel paint as the can said it was resistant to stone chips

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00633.jpg

I've used this stuff before and its quite tuff.

Harry
24-07-2011, 03:38 PM
good work old chap, she's gunna look a bit different to the pile of snot you first bought home mate :)

CBRRRT
24-07-2011, 03:41 PM
lol, cheers Harry, I hope so matey bloke.

CBRRRT
24-07-2011, 05:57 PM
I had a bit of trouble dismatling the carbs because the posi screws had been chewed up, so I brought a screw extractor.
I've never used one before so I was going in blind.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00634.jpg

I tried to get the tip to bite in the screw head, but there was'nt enough so I drilled it out to a depthe of about 3mm

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00635.jpg

The extractor works by lefty tighty screw loosey. I was'nt sure if it would bite without stripping the inside of the hole I drilled so I applied gentle presure, and I popped undun. All the other screws came out just as easy.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00636.jpg

Highly recomend getting a set of these extractors, they only cost about £5.00 and there is six in a set.

Job done.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00637.jpg

CBRRRT
24-07-2011, 06:20 PM
Well, the mold has had ten coats of wax, and its ready for P.V.A.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00638.jpg

Because the surface has been waxed the pva will want to seperate.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00639.jpg

Mix the pva 1 to 1 with water so its not to runny, but thick enough to paint on and as it starts to dry it will brush on the surface without seperating. Its a bit of a process but if you keep brushing it will cover

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00640.jpg

Untill eventually it will completely cover and go clear

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00641.jpg

I'm going to reinforce the sides with alu mesh and glass it in so I preped that too.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00642.jpg

BANDITROD
24-07-2011, 07:09 PM
Looking good Jon ...for the un-informed why do you use wax and pva is it just a releasing agent is it

CBRRRT
24-07-2011, 09:07 PM
The wax is a relese agent mate but on a new mild that hasn't fully cured applying glass straight on to it will devolve the wax. The PVA produces a sthin skin over the wax and stops a chemical reaction between the resin and wax. When the mild has hard a bit and fully cured then I won't need to apply the PVA to stop the part fro sticking to the mold mate.

CBRRRT
24-07-2011, 09:14 PM
quote:Originally posted by CBRRRT

The wax is a relese agent mate but on a new mold that hasn't fully cured applying glass straight on to it will devolve the wax. The PVA produces a thin skin over the wax and stops a chemical reaction between the resin and wax. When the mold has hard a bit and fully cured then I won't need to apply the PVA to stop the part from sticking to the mold mate.


iPod predictive text, lol.

BANDITROD
24-07-2011, 09:29 PM
Cool I have been playing with fiberglass myself today and it is fucking easy once you have it all set up I am thinking about making a few custom masks for future projects

LKC73
24-07-2011, 09:32 PM
Mate, you make it look so easy. Like your efforts and the write up is awesome.

CBRRRT
24-07-2011, 09:48 PM
Like Rod said mate, once its all set up its not difficult.

CBRRRT
24-07-2011, 10:12 PM
Yep, preperation is the key to fiberglassing. You want everything to hand and a big must is a box of latex gloves as they get very sticky and you need to change them regularly.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00643.jpg

I didnt really have time to to take to many photos, but you've seen it all before anyway.

I added a section of 12mm WBP plywood to strengthen the seat and attach fixings too.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00644.jpg

I'll trim the edges when its gone off a bit

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00645.jpg

CBRRRT
25-07-2011, 01:05 AM
The glass has gone off enough to trim off the excess with a craft knife.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00646.jpg

Now it can sit a cook for a while.

The parts of my diff are all painted and dry now so they went back together

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00647.jpg

Although I think I might polish the aloy oil filler plug on the side.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00648.jpg

Still lots to do so I'll be posting more stuff soon.

xa-mont
25-07-2011, 06:50 AM
love your work mate!

CBRRRT
25-07-2011, 07:06 AM
Thank you Mate,

Now then, Front break callipers.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00649.jpg

Once I seperated the calliper I removed the banjo bolt

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00650.jpg

then the bleed nipple

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00651.jpg

and drained the break oil out of the calliper. Its important to remove both so as the oil runs out its desplaced with air and not get trapped in the calliper, the reason why will become clear in a moment.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00652.jpg

Once its all out then put the bleed nipple back in and nip it up

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00653.jpg

Now remove the O clip and rubber from the calliper piston

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00654.jpg

Now with my compressor I attached the air gun and put it in the banjo bolt hole and pushed it in tight while I blew air into the calliper.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00655.jpg

and the piston popped out the other side.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00657.jpg

Now you see why its important to drain all the oil out, unless you want to cover yourself and your shed anyway.

Now they are ready for a refurb. Seals, pads etc.....

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00656.jpg

Fight_fan
25-07-2011, 07:33 AM
Look at ya go mate! Awesome stuff!
I too am gonna have a play with the old fibre glass now as I destroyed my bellypan on the wknd!

CBRRRT
25-07-2011, 07:36 AM
Good on ya mate, dont forget to post photos :-)

LKC73
25-07-2011, 05:19 PM
CBRRT, this is great mate, and good on you for posting up so many pictures. It inspires me to build another bike yet again.
I did finish (after the fighter) a Z440 resto but never thought to share it up here, as it was just a resto. Seeing this makes me wish I did.

CBRRRT
26-07-2011, 02:33 AM
Before I came in last night I popped the seat out of the mold, it wasnt perfect and had a few air bubbles in it, but I was expecting that as its a first attempt at a seat unit.

Anyway thats what filler is for. I gave it a good going over then sanded it all back.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00658.jpg

I gave it a shot of primer and it didnt look to bad, although there are still a few tiny bubbles to get out, but over all I'm happy with the results.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00659.jpg

I mocked it up with the tank and it looks ok

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00660.jpg

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00661.jpg

CBRRRT
26-07-2011, 02:47 AM
quote:Originally posted by LKC73

CBRRT, this is great mate, and good on you for posting up so many pictures. It inspires me to build another bike yet again.
I did finish (after the fighter) a Z440 resto but never thought to share it up here, as it was just a resto. Seeing this makes me wish I did.


Glad to hear you're enjoying the build mate and thanks for your support. I'll keep the pix coming fella. :D

Azrael
26-07-2011, 03:11 AM
Thats looking great Jon, nice work on the engine, the older engines look so much nicer than modern motors, new ones lack character.
That bike is going to look awesome mate, cudos as always.

CBRRRT
26-07-2011, 03:29 AM
My thoughts exactly Tom, and I very nearly painted it too. I glad I didnt now, and thanks for the encouragment fella. Fork seals next!

xa-mont
26-07-2011, 07:32 AM
the shape is perfect mate. Matches the tank very nicely.

CBRRRT
26-07-2011, 07:42 AM
Thanks matey, I'm quite pleased with it.

So, on to fork seals.

Very easy job to do and one that would cost you £80 to £100 in the garage.

First thing to do is remove the oil seal protector with a flat screw driver, but if you're going to re-use them then be carefull how you do it as they may split or get damaged.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00662.jpg

Then remove the fork cap, but be careful as the spring inside is under compression.
Its best to loosen it off with a spanner then cup your hand over the cap and turn the tube with your other hand.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00663.jpg

Tip the oil into an old container. That stuff looks like its never been changed.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00664.jpg

Now invert the fork tube and remove the allen bolt in the end.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00665.jpg

Turn the fork the right way up and pull the top out of the bottom leg

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00666.jpg

Now remove the clip that holds in the seal, then pry out the seal. Chances are you'll damage it by doing this so dont reuse it, replace it.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00667.jpg

Next I cleaned the oil seal seat.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00668.jpg

Then I pushed in the new seal and with the largest socket I have and a rubber hammer, I gently taped it all the way round untill it was below the groov the clip sits in.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00669.jpg

I gave that a quick clean and stuck that back in.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00672.jpg

Then replaced the top of the fork and the allen bolt in the bottom

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00671.jpg

Then replace the springs and washer

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00673.jpg

I went with these fork boots as I think they are a bit more cafe racer than the other seal protectors.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00674.jpg

The bottom yoke was cleaned and painted a week or so ago so I stuck it all together to keep it in one place.

I still have to put oil in the forks but I'm going to do all the liquids and lubes at the same time.

That was an easy job to do and a real money saver.

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/16/54/85/08/img00675.jpg