Quick shift ignition cutouts.

[sharky]

http://www.streetfighters.com.au/forum/upload/100584385341143.jpg

Do these systems work ?
You know, the sort that kills the ignition for a split second whilst you shift up.
Was lookin at Riks bike yesterday and started finkin..
I could use the bit on the top of the R1 gear lever to connect to the kill switch amd weld a lug on underneath to connect to the gear selector shaft.....

[DCRacing]

i am looking to do something similar on the 1100 i am racing.
What sort of switching are you thinking of using and are you looking to earth out 1 coil or 2, as on my gixxer. any expierience on these would be appreciated.

[Booster]

The turbo 750 that was at Casino has a $2 microswitch on the gear lever , shorts one coil.

[Large]

quote:Originally posted by Booster

The turbo 750 that was at Casino has a $2 microswitch on the gear lever , shorts one coil.


How does that work? The other coils still work?

[ozkat]

quote:Originally posted by Large


quote:Originally posted by Booster

The turbo 750 that was at Casino has a $2 microswitch on the gear lever , shorts one coil.


How does that work? The other coils still work?
You only have to take the load off the gearbox for a split second to change gears. By cutting one coil you effectivly unload the gearbox.

[ozkat]

On a non EFI bike you have to cut the ignition, on an EFI bike you either cut the ignition or interupt the fueling, i think most EFI bikes interupt the fueling to unload the gearbox. It allows you to shift gears at WOT (wide open throttle) Ill be using a system like this on my Busa rather than an air or electric shifter at the moment.

So the micro swith is off as long as you hold your lever up (or down) or does it just turn off and back on no matter how slow you are on the lever?

[fimpBIKES]

i'd assume its off when the levers up (so if your slow with your foot then that how long it'd take?)

pretty snazzy way about things :)

i know on the TLR i could probably rig it up to trick the side stand relay so it thinks that the stands down with the engine in gear (momentarily)

the wiring is even there already! (or at least it was til i hacked the side-stand relay out LOL)

quote:Originally posted by fimpBIKES



i know on the TLR i could probably rig it up to trick the side stand relay so it thinks that the stands down with the engine in gear (momentarily)

the wiring is even there already! (or at least it was til i hacked the side-stand relay out LOL)


That's a fuckn top idea. I have been trying to con my little bro to get his pnematic engineers brain ticking over for a air shifter and this was the last hurddle for me. Good work Fimp and Sharky.;)

[ozkat]

I think you will find if you use something like the sidestand circut it will kill all power to the engine just like flicking the kill switch on and off.

[Fatgit]

A simple analog capacitor/resistor/transistor circuit will allow you to just short a coil.

Jaycar have an engine kill switch kit for cars which does basically this, it shorts one of the coils momentarily (but repeatedly). It doesn't kill the engine, just sounds really rough, and the engine won't fire up. I've got the plans for it somewhere.

[fimpBIKES]

quote:Originally posted by ozkat

I think you will find if you use something like the sidestand circut it will kill all power to the engine just like flicking the kill switch on and off.


oops, yeah its EXACTLY like the kill-switch (its in the same loop)
knew i sounded too easy :(

[Large]

quote:Originally posted by ozkat

On a non EFI bike you have to cut the ignition, on an EFI bike you either cut the ignition or interupt the fueling, i think most EFI bikes interupt the fueling to unload the gearbox. It allows you to shift gears at WOT (wide open throttle) Ill be using a system like this on my Busa rather than an air or electric shifter at the moment.


So you still have to shift with your big toe?

[ozkat]

quote:Originally posted by Large


quote:Originally posted by ozkat

On a non EFI bike you have to cut the ignition, on an EFI bike you either cut the ignition or interupt the fueling, i think most EFI bikes interupt the fueling to unload the gearbox. It allows you to shift gears at WOT (wide open throttle) Ill be using a system like this on my Busa rather than an air or electric shifter at the moment.


So you still have to shift with your big toe?


Yes you still shift with your big toe.

[ozkat]

Here is a bit of advice to anyone considering going drag racing, im no expert, far from it. But what im saying comes from my limited experiance.
Get your bike up and running in the format you want, either a wheelie bar bike or stretched no bar or stock length.
Use the "KISS' principles (Keep It Simple Stupid)
Dont worry about Air shifters, electric shifters, quick shifters, turbos, nitrous, big blocks, superchargers or anything like that. You will be running at street meets or at best bracket meets in Mod Bike and you need to be consistant not fast. As long as your quicker than 11.99 your ok.
Once your bikes chassis is set up ie: wheelie bar bike or stretched no bar or stock length you need to practice and practice and practice. That means track time, not at the traffic lights or anything like that. Thats every sat night at TnTs and bracket meets at your local strip for at least 6 mths. By then you will have the vast experience of about 5 mins track time.
When you get to the point where you cant go faster and you start winning meetings then you can consider adding things to make you go quicker, BUT only add 1 thing at a time. That way you know if the mod you made actually made you faster.

The best performance mod you can do is track time not any go fast bits, and you will proberly actually find that any mods you make no matter what they are will make you slower till you master them.
Ive spent alot of money on going faster at the dargs and have actually gone slower. Track time is the key to not wasting money.

[pommie02]

i wouldn't just use a kill switch or microswitch.
you need to control the kill time 20 to 100 milliseconds. too short and you cant change gear, too long...big back fire. my air filters burnt out due to a back fire...not good.
i use a proximity switch, adjustable relay, cut the power supply to both coils. not the earth. you will need a capacitor, you need to control the voltage spikes. or buy one from one of the tuning companies in the states...these are cheaper than a new clutch basket or blown second gear

[sharky]

Wise words Obi-Oz-Kenobi....
I'm just lookin to spend/save in the right places.
Been lookin at the Dyna stuff on the cyanide site..simple,easy to set up and lots of potential for future 'development'...
Comparing stock fj wiring to the dyna is a no brainer...simple is good.
It includes a built in 'ignition kill' function for if/when I need it, plus lots of other goodies.

[Stocky]

The simple micro switch setup works if you use 2 of them

One shorts the coils when the lever is very first actuated.

The 2nd one cuts the first one out of circuit (removes the short for the coils) as soon as the lever has moved to a point where the gear is reliably engaged.

You need to make both switches mounting points adjustable and slowly adjust them for the optimum setup.