ozkat
28-04-2008, 08:31 PM
Part 1
Ill try to explain here in as much detail as i can with pictures how to take a mould from something.Im using a fibreglass dragbike seat unit for this purpose (its for a member here)
Things you will need....
Chopped strand fibreglass mat 600GSM weight
Resin, poly resin will be fine
Catalyst, to suit the poly resin (i use 725H)
Tooling Gel or normal Gelcoat
Mould release (i use TR on small stuff)
Icecream containers
Stirring sticks
Lots of rags
Eye protection ...PLEASE USE SAFETY GLASSES!!
Acetone
Disposable paint brushes
Small check roller
Rubber gloves
There is proberly something ive forgotten ill add it as i remember.
All this stuff is available from any fibreglass supplier.
This is the mould release i use
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t31/GSXR1370TURBO/2008_0313howtolaminate10001.jpg
Ok here is the tail im going to take the mould from. Im using this as ive gotta take a mould from it anyway and its relatively easy to do. First of all it mus be clean.... very clean. Wash it in warm soapy water to clean it and make sure its 100% dry. Anything your taking a mould off must not be porous if it is seal it with paint. Any marks, scuffs or scratches will show up in the mould and in the finished article.
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t31/GSXR1370TURBO/2008_0313howtolaminate10002.jpg
You will need to wax the article you intend to take the mould off at least 5 times, leaving it 15 mins between coats, using the foam applicator and buffing it off with a clean rag. Try not to touch whatever your waxing with your bare hands after you start waxing as the oils in your skin can cause the mould to stick, i recommend wearing rubber gloves.
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t31/GSXR1370TURBO/2008_0313howtolaminate10004.jpg
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t31/GSXR1370TURBO/2008_0313howtolaminate10005.jpg
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t31/GSXR1370TURBO/2008_0313howtolaminate10003.jpg
Once you have waxed the article you then move to applying the tooling gel or gelcoat. I use tooling gel as its made for moulds its harder than normal gelcoat. But if your doing a one off piece for yourself normal gelcoat will do, you will proberly be able to get 10+ pieces out of normal gelcoated mould anyway, compared to 200+ using tooling gel. Pour your gelcoat into a container (i used a washed out milk container for this) pour out the amount you think you will need then double it (you will be suprised how much you use, but dont worry its not expensive) Then you add your catalyst. Never use more than 2.5% catalyst unless you want to burn your shed down!
WEAR YOU SAFETY GLASSES AND RUBBER GLOVES!! This is bad shit! Get it on your skin and it will burn like acid. Get it in your eyes and you will be blind, no maybes YOU WILL FUCK YOUR EYES IN LESS THAN 10 SECONDS. Try not to breathe the fumes too much too.
I mixed my catalyst at a 2% ratio (i used 400grams of gel and 8 mils of catalyst)
Just brush it on nice and thick dont worry too much about runs they dont matter, just get a good thick coverage. Or you can spray it on just use a gun with a min 1.7 tip.
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t31/GSXR1370TURBO/2008_0313howtolaminate10007.jpg
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t31/GSXR1370TURBO/2008_0313howtolaminate10008.jpg
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t31/GSXR1370TURBO/2008_0313howtolaminate10009.jpg
Like i said dont worry about runs but make sure you get a good coverage. Try not to work the brush too much as you will just put more brush marks in it, you will see what i mean if you do it. When i used a 2% catalyst ratio i had about 30mins working time before the gel started to harden. The hotter the weather the quicker it goes off, try not to do it under 15deg or in direct sunlight.
And DONT BLOODY SMOKE WHILE YOUR DOING IT UNLESS YOU WANT TO BLOW YOURSELF UP!!
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t31/GSXR1370TURBO/2008_0313howtolaminate10010.jpg
You will proberly end up with some gel left in the container, dont just throw it in the bin pour water on it and leave it till tomorrow till you bin it, it can catch on fire.
Let the gelcoated article sit for 24hrs before you start the next stage. Use the acetone to wash up.
Ill be doing this in a few stages because im sure there will be a few questions and i dont want to answer too many at once.
Part 2
Now you should have a hard coating that still feels a little tacky on the article you want to reproduce. Dont touch it too much as the oils in your skin will cause problems. Next you need to cut your chopped strand mat to suit, allowing for around 30mm overhang. This will be trimmed off later but you need it there now.
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t31/GSXR1370TURBO/2008_0314howtolaminate10001.jpg
You can trim it into smaller pieces or put cuts in it to make it easier to go around certain shapes. You need to do this 3 times as you need to make 3 layers.
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t31/GSXR1370TURBO/2008_0314howtolaminate10002.jpg
Remove the fibreglass, making sure you know which bit goes where. You now need a wetting out surface an old table to or work bench will be ok but make sure its clean with no oil residue on it.
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t31/GSXR1370TURBO/2008_0314howtolaminate10003.jpg
Now mix your resin with cayalyst in the same ratios at you did the gelcoat (no more than 2.5%)
AND WEAR YOUR BLOODY SAFETY GEAR!
Once mixed you are ready to wet out the glass
Using a brush wet the glass in a dabbing motion using enough resin to totally wet the glass right through, but not too much that it runs off when you pick it up.
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t31/GSXR1370TURBO/2008_0314howtolaminate10005.jpg
Lay this wet glass onto the article piece by piece till its covered leaving about 30mm overlap. Then brush more resin on in a dabbing motion till the glass is fully wet. Using the check roller roll the wet glass in a random motion till you think all the trapped air is out, its hard to explain but im sure you will work out what i mean. If you see a bubble or a white dry looking area roll it maybe even add a little more resin.
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t31/GSXR1370TURBO/2008_0314howtolaminate10007.jpg
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t31/GSXR1370TURBO/2008_0314howtolaminate10006.jpg Wet all the glass right to the edge not just the edge of the thing you are taking the mould from.
You need to do this process 3 times. Smaller articles can be done in one hit larger items may have to be done in 3 stages. It depends if you can get it done before the resin starts to set.
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t31/GSXR1370TURBO/2008_0314howtolaminate10011.jpg
After you have done this 3 times leave it 24hrs for the resin to fully harden. (dont take too much notice of the blue lines in mine i used a different woven mat for my last layer you wont need to do this)
After 24 hrs it should look like this
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t31/GSXR1370TURBO/2008_0314howtolaminate10010.jpg
It should be hard but maybe still a little tacky to touch.
Next get a angle grinder and grind off the excess overhang, being careful not to damage the original item. (i forgot to take a pic of this)
Next is demoulding DO NOT USE SCREWDRIVERS OR METAL OBJECTS to help you demould.
Its hard to explain but you need to push, pull, flex, twist without damaging either the mould or the item your moulding from. You can use small pine wedges to help you demould but dont bash them with a hammer. If you have waxed properly and take your time you will end up with something like this.
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t31/GSXR1370TURBO/2008_0314howtolaminate10012.jpg
Ill try to explain here in as much detail as i can with pictures how to take a mould from something.Im using a fibreglass dragbike seat unit for this purpose (its for a member here)
Things you will need....
Chopped strand fibreglass mat 600GSM weight
Resin, poly resin will be fine
Catalyst, to suit the poly resin (i use 725H)
Tooling Gel or normal Gelcoat
Mould release (i use TR on small stuff)
Icecream containers
Stirring sticks
Lots of rags
Eye protection ...PLEASE USE SAFETY GLASSES!!
Acetone
Disposable paint brushes
Small check roller
Rubber gloves
There is proberly something ive forgotten ill add it as i remember.
All this stuff is available from any fibreglass supplier.
This is the mould release i use
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t31/GSXR1370TURBO/2008_0313howtolaminate10001.jpg
Ok here is the tail im going to take the mould from. Im using this as ive gotta take a mould from it anyway and its relatively easy to do. First of all it mus be clean.... very clean. Wash it in warm soapy water to clean it and make sure its 100% dry. Anything your taking a mould off must not be porous if it is seal it with paint. Any marks, scuffs or scratches will show up in the mould and in the finished article.
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t31/GSXR1370TURBO/2008_0313howtolaminate10002.jpg
You will need to wax the article you intend to take the mould off at least 5 times, leaving it 15 mins between coats, using the foam applicator and buffing it off with a clean rag. Try not to touch whatever your waxing with your bare hands after you start waxing as the oils in your skin can cause the mould to stick, i recommend wearing rubber gloves.
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t31/GSXR1370TURBO/2008_0313howtolaminate10004.jpg
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t31/GSXR1370TURBO/2008_0313howtolaminate10005.jpg
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t31/GSXR1370TURBO/2008_0313howtolaminate10003.jpg
Once you have waxed the article you then move to applying the tooling gel or gelcoat. I use tooling gel as its made for moulds its harder than normal gelcoat. But if your doing a one off piece for yourself normal gelcoat will do, you will proberly be able to get 10+ pieces out of normal gelcoated mould anyway, compared to 200+ using tooling gel. Pour your gelcoat into a container (i used a washed out milk container for this) pour out the amount you think you will need then double it (you will be suprised how much you use, but dont worry its not expensive) Then you add your catalyst. Never use more than 2.5% catalyst unless you want to burn your shed down!
WEAR YOU SAFETY GLASSES AND RUBBER GLOVES!! This is bad shit! Get it on your skin and it will burn like acid. Get it in your eyes and you will be blind, no maybes YOU WILL FUCK YOUR EYES IN LESS THAN 10 SECONDS. Try not to breathe the fumes too much too.
I mixed my catalyst at a 2% ratio (i used 400grams of gel and 8 mils of catalyst)
Just brush it on nice and thick dont worry too much about runs they dont matter, just get a good thick coverage. Or you can spray it on just use a gun with a min 1.7 tip.
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t31/GSXR1370TURBO/2008_0313howtolaminate10007.jpg
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t31/GSXR1370TURBO/2008_0313howtolaminate10008.jpg
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t31/GSXR1370TURBO/2008_0313howtolaminate10009.jpg
Like i said dont worry about runs but make sure you get a good coverage. Try not to work the brush too much as you will just put more brush marks in it, you will see what i mean if you do it. When i used a 2% catalyst ratio i had about 30mins working time before the gel started to harden. The hotter the weather the quicker it goes off, try not to do it under 15deg or in direct sunlight.
And DONT BLOODY SMOKE WHILE YOUR DOING IT UNLESS YOU WANT TO BLOW YOURSELF UP!!
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t31/GSXR1370TURBO/2008_0313howtolaminate10010.jpg
You will proberly end up with some gel left in the container, dont just throw it in the bin pour water on it and leave it till tomorrow till you bin it, it can catch on fire.
Let the gelcoated article sit for 24hrs before you start the next stage. Use the acetone to wash up.
Ill be doing this in a few stages because im sure there will be a few questions and i dont want to answer too many at once.
Part 2
Now you should have a hard coating that still feels a little tacky on the article you want to reproduce. Dont touch it too much as the oils in your skin will cause problems. Next you need to cut your chopped strand mat to suit, allowing for around 30mm overhang. This will be trimmed off later but you need it there now.
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t31/GSXR1370TURBO/2008_0314howtolaminate10001.jpg
You can trim it into smaller pieces or put cuts in it to make it easier to go around certain shapes. You need to do this 3 times as you need to make 3 layers.
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t31/GSXR1370TURBO/2008_0314howtolaminate10002.jpg
Remove the fibreglass, making sure you know which bit goes where. You now need a wetting out surface an old table to or work bench will be ok but make sure its clean with no oil residue on it.
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t31/GSXR1370TURBO/2008_0314howtolaminate10003.jpg
Now mix your resin with cayalyst in the same ratios at you did the gelcoat (no more than 2.5%)
AND WEAR YOUR BLOODY SAFETY GEAR!
Once mixed you are ready to wet out the glass
Using a brush wet the glass in a dabbing motion using enough resin to totally wet the glass right through, but not too much that it runs off when you pick it up.
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t31/GSXR1370TURBO/2008_0314howtolaminate10005.jpg
Lay this wet glass onto the article piece by piece till its covered leaving about 30mm overlap. Then brush more resin on in a dabbing motion till the glass is fully wet. Using the check roller roll the wet glass in a random motion till you think all the trapped air is out, its hard to explain but im sure you will work out what i mean. If you see a bubble or a white dry looking area roll it maybe even add a little more resin.
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t31/GSXR1370TURBO/2008_0314howtolaminate10007.jpg
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t31/GSXR1370TURBO/2008_0314howtolaminate10006.jpg Wet all the glass right to the edge not just the edge of the thing you are taking the mould from.
You need to do this process 3 times. Smaller articles can be done in one hit larger items may have to be done in 3 stages. It depends if you can get it done before the resin starts to set.
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t31/GSXR1370TURBO/2008_0314howtolaminate10011.jpg
After you have done this 3 times leave it 24hrs for the resin to fully harden. (dont take too much notice of the blue lines in mine i used a different woven mat for my last layer you wont need to do this)
After 24 hrs it should look like this
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t31/GSXR1370TURBO/2008_0314howtolaminate10010.jpg
It should be hard but maybe still a little tacky to touch.
Next get a angle grinder and grind off the excess overhang, being careful not to damage the original item. (i forgot to take a pic of this)
Next is demoulding DO NOT USE SCREWDRIVERS OR METAL OBJECTS to help you demould.
Its hard to explain but you need to push, pull, flex, twist without damaging either the mould or the item your moulding from. You can use small pine wedges to help you demould but dont bash them with a hammer. If you have waxed properly and take your time you will end up with something like this.
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t31/GSXR1370TURBO/2008_0314howtolaminate10012.jpg