gsxr 1100 HEL oil cooler problems

[Dark Reign]

Has any body fitted one of these coolers to a GSXR 1100M and had problems. Wanted to keep it top feed but now it looks like i will have to swap the brackets and run it bottom feed as the lower triple hits the fittings and cooler well before full lock.

Frustrating as ill have to get some new straight fittings and have holes in the top bracket.

Any suggestions?



http://www.streetfighters.com.au/forum/upload/425781833133108.jpg

[Dark Reign]

http://www.streetfighters.com.au/forum/upload/425781833147072.jpg

[Gix11]

Yea, make your own brackets out of some angle ali mate. It's easy to work with and you can then lengthen the back side to drop the cooler down futher. That's what we did on both the bikes I mentioned in the other topics and they were both inverted as well. You just need a hacksaw, file, drill bits and countersink mate - you even have the old one to use as a template! Job done.

[Deano]

that is piss poor mate. i would be asking for my money back or be supplied with the correct fitting at no charge, i am sure that the supplier would have asked you what bike it was to fit and supplied it to you based on that info.

if you let the supplier get away with it then they will just keep doing it again. after all you have paid a stupid amount of money for a hose and cooler set up that i believe is well over priced.

good luck

[Rumbo]

That is a pity. I was just about to get 1 of those.
Looks like you gotta drop it a fair way.

[alfiestorm]

Hel should have told you that there are two types available one top feed which is generally used for race application track or strip also for the die hards that want to keep it top fed like the standard set up and you will need to restrict the steering lock to avoid smashing the connectors .

Or bottom fed coolers which need no steering lock restriction and are suitable for street use and make fug all difference to the coolers performance and can be used for race applications as well.

I made the same mistake and got top feed but soon sorted it and turned it up the other way and used some straight connectors I had lying around, mounted the whole thing on sliding brackets (an adaptation of what Gix11 done)

It's a bugga they didnt tell ya there is two types of mounting offered [V]

Almost forgot make some aluminium spanners to use on the connectors or they will end up getting scratched up or worse the edges start to get chewed up and look fuggin crap.
I have seen a few bikes with chewed up connectors fuggin shite

i run a top fed Hel unit with USD forx, nuthin wrong with 10 point turns.

Hel make the brackets,Setrab make the coolers.And i see your bracket also didn't come with strentghening tubes between the bolts,my 1st 1 cracked after 1000k's even tho they are rubber mounted.

[Dark Reign]

cheers for the info and ideas guys, muchly appriciated.

I was expecting a straight bolt up from the description and so im a little frustrated. And yes Deano i was specifically asked to verify the bike, frame and engine configuration. Sent an email to HEL just waiting for a reply.

Also they supplied the wrong double banjo bolt (thread) for my braided lines and i was stuck running around at 12:30pm on a saturday, public holiday weekend, looking for someone open and with a banjo with the right thread.

Big thanks to MAX POWER in russelvale who were closed all day but still answered the phone and waited for 45mins so i could come and get the bolt. Got me out of the shit.

Davo - Lol on othe 10 point turns. What is the best suggestion for some strengthening tubes? Some small diameter ally tube with some 170mm long bolts, or small solid bar and screw into each end?

Also i was thinking about running a small fan behind the cooler on a stand alone switch for when/if im sitting in traffic. Is one really necessary?

[BANDITROD]

the solid bar would be good ,but i think everyone just use's hollow bar and long bolts mate

dont worry about a thermo fan,your new cooler is more heat dispersant than a standard unit. I like to hold it on the limiter with the clutch out in top gear at traffic lights but they always change green before it over heats.solid is the genuine article but hollow will do,got a mag article on the topic somewhere,i'll have a dig later.
Mine came with the right compression fittings for my bike(89 11),and when it cracked i sent it back to the supplier and it was replaced without question.But Setrab changed the top fittings which raised the height of the oil lines about 20mm and didnt fit the old mount bracket holes...so the supplier had a new bracket sent to me to suit.
Check your bottom bracket,it should have a score mark through it.this is a snap off point,grab ya pliers and bend the waste side towards the groove,then back an forth till she becomes scrap.
then you'll need to make some step down links for the top mount,buy doing so your cooler will become closer to your frame as the Hel bracket is mounted inside the links.This should pick up a better steering capacity and if you do it right it will still look clean.
I was just lookin at your steering lock and you havn't lost as much as me (K5 USD front changed from conventional right way ups),maybe even just some rubber bump stops on your full lock points will overcome your fear of snappin cooler mounts,but i rekon once you ride it you'll be fine with it (otherwise your not leaning far enough).

p.s. I got a quote from my local fuckwit dealer for a new standard cooler...$1220.(fuck yeah...send me 17 of em tommorow).

[Dark Reign]

LMAO Hmmmm $1220, My 4 core desert cooler in my patrol only cost $500

I got some 12mm hollow ally tube today (2mm wall), some 8mm threaded bar, and dome nuts to make some strengthening tubes up for each end.

The bottom bracket actually has the holes for the fittings 3/4 of the way cut out already on the inside so i will just cut them out, swap the brackets and mount the cooler a bit lower as suggested. Should be clear then fingers crossed.

Straight fittings are $16 each so not too bad, hope fully have it done tonight and post some pics.

Cheers for the help.

[oldskool]

had the same problem drill a hole in lock stop and tap a thread and put a bolt in as a new lock stop easy.

[Dark Reign]

That would have been my next option oldskool but as luck would have it i managed to shoe horn it in.

Got the brackets drilled and swapped, cooler mounted, side braces in and there is only a bees dick in it (like 0.5mm) ;). Should be able to file a couple of mm of the top bracket and she'll be sweet.

ill grab the new fittings tomorrow and hook her up.

Hopefully HEL will send me a solid top bracket and i can get rid of the top holes.

Thanks very much for the assistance fellas.


http://www.streetfighters.com.au/forum/upload/84367465086697.jpg

[Dark Reign]

http://www.streetfighters.com.au/forum/upload/84367465099007.jpg

[Dark Reign]

Ok got it all done last weekend, seems to be working well. Andy from HEL was more than helpful and is sending me a new blank top bracket and two new fittings asap. (i bought the two straight fittings locally so i could get it on and running) Very satisfied with their response and they couldnt apologise enough for the problems.




http://www.streetfighters.com.au/forum/upload/58805388099678.jpg

[Dark Reign]

next question [:I]

Can i get rid of this rubber guard/shield to get more air flow or will it do more harm than good?


http://www.streetfighters.com.au/forum/upload/58805388095436.jpg

fuck it right off.never had 1 on mine. coils will be cooler too.

[BANDITROD]

yeah get rid of that shit you dont need it mate

[Dark Reign]

cheers guys, i will. ill be able to find my oil leak easier with it gone too. ;)

[Gix11]

Didn't even realise they had those? Bin time mate.