I do NOT need another project...

[Tony Nitrous]

I do NOT need another project,
not that that's ever stopped me.


http://s2.postimg.org/kcqzilweh/image.jpg (http://postimage.org/)

http://s30.postimg.org/gghhv1rsh/image.jpg (http://postimage.org/)

[ozzy1100]

Air cooled, steel frame, there is nothing sweeter

[ozzy1100]

Looks like a kat frame

[Tony Nitrous]

Close. GSX "ET"

[ozzy1100]

Cool same brace under the head stock, I have a kat frame here to strighten

[Tony Nitrous]

Can anyone remember who the guys was in Brisbane that was recommended for frame mods ?

I know Dave Kellett down Moss St, but I'm sure there was another guy around the Loganholme
area that folk praised a while back ?

[ozzy1100]

Nicom engineering but he moved back to the uk, hense why
I'm building my own jig to modify frames. He was unbelievably good

[ozzy1100]

Btw you can stick kellet up ur arse.......

[Tony Nitrous]

Need approx an extra 14mm internal across the swingarm pivot,
Cut the 3 cross braces, jack open, and insert material, I'd like to keep the front bottom mounts
(Near the sidestand) where they are but the bottom back ones will need remounting unless I use spacers.

I want to run a 190 or 200 tyre on a 6" rim without pissing about with skinny chains, different tyres,
grinding the frame and having half a mm clearance on the chain.

Do-able ?

[ozzy1100]

Short answer yes, but not as simple as it seems. Been looking at doing it on z's. Everything from
notching the frame to complete new bottom rails. Drop in and have a chat.

[Tony Nitrous]

Seen them notched. Not impressed.
Seen new lower rails manufactured, not convinced its necessary.

370Steve jacked his out about 10mm and ground a couple of mm off each side.
1400 arm went in but chain was still close. I'm thinking "similar but more"

Thinking 14mm inserts / spacers to go into frame with dowel type ends to fit inside existing tubes.

Would be nice to keep front and bottom mounts in original position.
Top rear mounts are bolt on so less of an issue. Bottom rear mounts
are unlikely to be right if frame is opened up unless it was done on
both sides outside of them.

I have a few more bits on their way, it'll be easier to get exact measurements
than taking measurements of my other bikes.

[Tony Nitrous]

I don't think Steve cut the cross braces on his, but he said chain clearance is OK but not great.
I think he just spread his frame at the spindle with an hydraulic jack.
Apart from wanting to go slightly wider I was concerned about the spindle holes lining up from both
sides of the frame ?

http://s13.postimg.org/6f3p9smvb/image.jpg (http://postimage.org/)

[ozzy1100]

Ill give you a ring so I don't have to type it out tony, but I have looked at doing it those ways
and have designed methods into the jig I'm building

[ozzy1100]

It's easier to machine the swing arm to fit but that dosnt help with chain run, to spread the
frame is easy but keeping square and same position is the hardest part, hydraulic jack can't control
moment side to side, they need to be moved separately.

[Tony Nitrous]

I'll try and get around to see you and have a proper chat.
Agreed, swing arm seems the easy option but doesn't achieve what I'm after.

Yeah, cutting and stretching sounds easy, but the keeping the engine mounts and swingarm
points where I want them is beyond what I see being done at home, hence my asking about
Kellett or the other frame guy. When I get the swingarm and Cush drive here it'll be easier
to see what's involved.


http://s7.postimg.org/7sp9oawaz/image.jpg (http://postimage.org/)

http://s21.postimg.org/snjukr49z/image.jpg (http://postimage.org/)

[ozzy1100]

Or wait till I'm finished my jig and moved the 4 frames before you out the way and
pay me, your choice but nicom is no more and we refuse to use kellet for reasons I won't enter
into here

[Tony Nitrous]

Or wait till I'm finished my jig and moved the 4 frames before you out the way and
pay me, your choice but nicom is no more and we refuse to use kellet for reasons I won't enter
into here

Sounds good to me mate, practice on a few other before I bring mine around... LOL.

Been having a chat with a builder in the UK who's into this sort of thing.
Lots of options, some clever, some nasty, some expensive!

OSD "outside drive" running the chain outside the frame, common on gay US Busa's
although I have seen it done on a tough UK Kat. Normally the frame stays stock but
you then need a wider arm for the rear sprocket.

Adding an outside tube that runs down along the existing before cutting 75% of the
original out above and below the swingarm pivot (been done before)
Nasty but works.

Fabricating a whole new section... $$$ and time !

Cutting out the swingarm pivot area and mating in one from something
like a GSX1400 or something with a steel frame and 6" wheel.
(This gets around boring out the frame to take a bigger spindle or running
sleeves and the original skinny spindle)


I'm open to idea's and no mad rush as I'm still collecting parts.
Something to think about.

Will try and get around for a chat soon.

Tony.J.

[Tony Nitrous]

Well out of my league but still an impressive solution...

http://s4.postimg.org/kus5gj13x/image.jpg (http://postimage.org/)

[ozzy1100]

Outside drive actually started use in drag racing, it's not what is needed in this instance but cool non
the less

It's how this frame I did works, the base of the frame is factory

http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/n493/ozzy1100/null_zps8f31c176.jpg (http://s1136.photobucket.com/user/ozzy1100/media/null_zps8f31c176.jpg.html)

http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/n493/ozzy1100/null_zpsc6bd9814.jpg (http://s1136.photobucket.com/user/ozzy1100/media/null_zpsc6bd9814.jpg.html)

The jig I'm building will allow me to chop, spread, machine, align and a few other goodies, so will be interesting to see what
would be best

[ozzy1100]

Lol you bet me to it

[Tony Nitrous]

5.5" / 180 conversion using a Mk-1 B12 arm seems to be Very common.
To the extent that they sell kits with the top hat spacers for the spindle,
weld-on twin shock mounts and an off set front sprocket.

http://s30.postimg.org/f8sjbjfz5/image.jpg (http://postimage.org/)

[Tony Nitrous]

http://s27.postimg.org/oth2x4s6r/image.jpg (http://postimage.org/)

http://s29.postimg.org/xozf5li9z/image.jpg (http://postimage.org/)

[ozzy1100]

That notching would be the easiest and we fit 5.5 180 tyres
in z's but it's tight but without frame mods

[Tony Nitrous]

Yeah, 5.5" /180 using a B12 arm will go into an ET.
Some notch but others say you can get away without if your fussy about
the brand of tyre, use a non-O Ring chain, put clip on tyre side, use the right
cush drive hub etc etc.

Tempted to go 5.5 as I have the arm / wheel etc sat here, but its not that
special, or what I really wanted.

[ozzy1100]

Hassle, time, work and dollars the questions always stay the same

[Gix11]

I didn't know Nic had gone back to the UK. Thanks for the ionfo Lynton.

http://www.streetfighters.com.au/forum/showthread.php?3498-FRAME-STRAIGHTENING-AND-MORE...-Niccom-Engineering

[ozzy1100]

It's a shame really because he really did amazing work

[Tony Nitrous]

So the pressure's on you to perform now mate ;-)

[ozzy1100]

So the pressure's on you to perform now mate ;-)

you didn't pay much attention to the drag bike project did you tony bwahahaha
that was pressure,

[Tony Nitrous]

I thought that was only a Kwak ?

Up your game Mate, I'm talking Suzuki's now ;-)

[ozzy1100]

You do realize I only work by invitation now days don't you and that
places are filling up fast...... Swearing at me won't do you any favors
peasant..... ;-)

[Large]

I believe when Ben fitted the 1400 arm to a Kat he had to make a whole new front part for the arm.

It is so big on the 1400 it hit on the back of the engine cases.

[ozzy1100]

I believe when Ben fitted the 1400 arm to a Kat he had to make a whole new front part for the arm.

It is so big on the 1400 it hit on the back of the engine cases.

Yer was looking at that on the one here, very little clearance from arm to back of motor,
What tyre rim combo did he run do you remember rich?

[Tony Nitrous]

1200 Bandit motor is shorter than the GSX1100 motor.
It needs longer front or rear mounts, to be mounted either towards the back
or the front of the frame. Moving it forward away from the arm isn't an issue
as it would be on the original aircooled lump.

[Tony Nitrous]

Early Bandits run a 180 on a 5.5" rim.


Busa 190/50 on a 6"
GSX14 190/50 on a 6"
B-King 200/50 on a 6"
.... but it's common on the last 3 to change to a taller 190/55.

Gen-2 Busa and B-King use the same wheel but different Cush drives.
GSX1400 is a stand alone wheel not used in another model.

[Large]

Yer was looking at that on the one here, very little clearance from arm to back of motor,
What tyre rim combo did he run do you remember rich?

GSX1400 wheel. Not sure of tyre.

[ozzy1100]

GSX1400 wheel. Not sure of tyre.

Be interesting to see if he used the 190 trye or 180 on the 6" rim for chain clearance
I have seen 180 on 6" to fit in zeds I have also seen 6 1/4 rims in the std frame
of Suzuki but offset to the side for clearance ( joe marshal drag bike)

[GammaBoy]

Nicom engineering but he moved back to the uk, hense why
I'm building my own jig to modify frames. He was unbelievably good
He narrowed the Kat's swinger for me - had always planned on using him again, sad to hear he's gone back to the UK.