View Full Version : RGV250 - First build
Hi guys, saved an 91 RGV 250 from going to scrap a couple of weeks ago, been looking for a project for a while so this was perfect. It had been dropped so the screen was all out of whack, fairings cracked and missing so its all come off. The engine was reportedly seized, but after a carby clean out and overhaul she fired up. Also gave the pipes a good soaking in Caustic Soda. Still needs a lot of bits and pieces, carbies need to be fitted properly etc, front brakes are jammed. Other than that it just needs a good clean up. I've started painting in between other jobs that are waiting on parts, going with a WW2 fighter plane style (Flying Tigers). Will try and get some pics up asap.
Gix11
26-05-2015, 07:46 AM
Nice find mate. Those things are getting rare now. Sounds like a perfect project as well. Photos will be very appreciated so get snapping. In the tight twisties those RGV's used to smoke most bikes.
Oh, ....and welcome aboard mate!
65556556655765586559
So I'm sure the paint job was cool at some point in time, not really my cup of tea. Found a big run in the tank so I'm going to have to sand it out and start that again. I might even take the whole thing back again just in P180, I wanted a flatter finish and even with the 400 and no clear coat its got a reasonable shine to it.
The wrap on the rear hugger is coming off, it was more just to have a go at doing a wrap. It was a nightmare, and looks bloody awful, just for the record. The plastic is pretty average so I'll either give it a hit of matte black or do it green to match the rest of it.
The big question I have, and am hoping someone here can answer - is there a rear subframe from a newer bike that can bolt onto these without too much hassle? The 25yo racebike rear end is not exactly the look I'm after.
ozzy1100
26-05-2015, 05:00 PM
Almost anything can be made to fit with the use of a grinder :-)
That's not saying there won't be something to bolt on but it doesn't happen often...
I can't remember if rgv's have a bolt on subframe but if it does that's half the battle won
K6Thou
26-05-2015, 06:19 PM
Tyga make all sorts of goodies for RGVs.
GammaBoy
26-05-2015, 06:33 PM
Tyga do a subframe to suit the tails they sell
ozzy1100
26-05-2015, 07:35 PM
Well there you go....
Yes its bolt-on, have seen the tyga one i'm just not quite sold on it. I am thinking of the angle grinder method. The tyga oil tank should be easy enough to get in there.
Gix11
29-05-2015, 07:36 AM
65556556655765586559
So I'm sure the paint job was cool at some point in time, not really my cup of tea. Found a big run in the tank so I'm going to have to sand it out and start that again. I might even take the whole thing back again just in P180, I wanted a flatter finish and even with the 400 and no clear coat its got a reasonable shine to it.
The wrap on the rear hugger is coming off, it was more just to have a go at doing a wrap. It was a nightmare, and looks bloody awful, just for the record. The plastic is pretty average so I'll either give it a hit of matte black or do it green to match the rest of it.
The big question I have, and am hoping someone here can answer - is there a rear subframe from a newer bike that can bolt onto these without too much hassle? The 25yo racebike rear end is not exactly the look I'm after.
Do you want to try those photos again mate? I've got nothing.
The Phantom
01-06-2015, 08:27 AM
Welcome mate. Lots of SF potential in that and I can only imagine how a lighter RGV250 would go!
The rear subframe mounting points are a fairly common arrangement - four points, upper ones slightly inboard and forward of the lower ones - which means adapting a tail from another bike won't be too painful. Look at R6 and CBR tails - the 1999-2002 R6 subframe looks pretty close to matching the RGV main frame, here's one - shorten the lower spars, upper spars mounted inboard of the main frame, and it could be a close fit. R6 seat locates into a tang on the frame rather than into the back of the tank, so it's easier to make it work than some other subframes.
https://www.canyonmotoparts.com/sites/default/files/styles/large/public/DSC00948.JPG?itok=EpjiBGhl
Cheers mate, I'll look into the R6 subframe, it seems to be a much easier route than trying to fit diffferent plastics. I've also heard that the 250M rear subframe is a rare and valuable commodity these days so i was less keen to chop it after that.
Just a quick update - first time I got it started it was only going on 1 cyl, turned out one carby came unstuck, so thats been sorted now and running on both. It was missing on one occasionally this morning, and as a result got some pretty major backfires when I revved it up a bit. I'm guessing/hoping this can be sorted with new leads, plugs, or something of the sort.
GammaBoy
03-06-2015, 06:22 PM
Possibly knackered reeds
Possibly knackered reeds
Cheers, will sus out the reeds. Running better with new plugs but not 100%. Not missing any more but something still isn't quite right.
On another note, I randomly stumbled across the speedo from my (deceased) 2005 Z750, wondering if anyone might know where to find a wiring diagram? I've tried google with no luck.
peter187
07-06-2015, 11:51 AM
There's a few things that need checking on the vj22 rgv motor (the one in your bike).
There are sock filters in the fuel lines going to the carbs. Check that these aren't full of shit. It's also worth popping the carbs open and making sure all the jets are clean. Don't worry that one main jet is larger than the other, they're supposed to be (the upper cylinder is jetted richer because it runs hotter).
After you've checked this out, have a look at the air solenoid system. It has some small air filters in it that never get checked by previous owners and are generally degraded and blocked. Clear these out and pop a bit of filter material in there. You can see the solenoid filters in the diagram below.
http://i.imgur.com/TRkqBHd.jpg
Once you're happy with this, check out the adjustment of the oil pump and bleed it to make sure there isn't any air in it. Follow the directions from the manual below. It's all pretty straight forward.
http://i.imgur.com/AHCue15.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/VyrW06d.jpg
After this it's worth your while to check the power valves. There are two covers above the exhaust outlets. Pop these open and prepare for tons of black gunk to pour out. Remove the valves from the motor and check the state of the pin that holds the centre piece of the valve in. This can become worn and cause the valve to fall into the motor, causing fairly catastrophic failure. If they look ok give everything a clean and put them back in. If they're a bit wobbly you can replace them with either billet powervalves or just replace the centre piece with another stock item and make it part of your maintenance to keep an eye on it. When it's all back together, adjust the powervalves. You do it by grounding the spare grey wire that's near the battery and aligning some marks. It's all explained on the two pages below.
http://i.imgur.com/PEjvVS7.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/J6HCVrX.jpg
:)
Hit me up if you want anymore info. I have an RS250 and it took me years to understand all the little idiosyncrasies with these motors. Admittedly mine is possibly going up for sale soon as I'm loving the GSXR1000 far too much.
Shit photo of mine.
http://i.imgur.com/iktOpNb.png
Always luved the work gone into this wicked bit of gear,might be inspiration for you....
http://www.customfighters.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1190771&postcount=5 (http://www.customfighters.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1190771&postcount=5)
I have a box of vj22 parts,side covers,crank,harness,gear set etc if your interested.
That looks bloody awesome LB!!
Thanks for all this info Peter, we have already pulled the carbies to bits and given them a really good clean out, new jets and needles. The needles were jammed up previously to that. The fuel filter and lines have also been replaced because the bike has been sitting for a long long time. Powervalve inspection is on the list, I'll have a look at those air solenoids too. It needs a base gasket done on the bottom cylinder and that's actually worse than we first thought so it's contributing to some of the issues we're having. Will be a good chance to have a look inside although it has good compression so hopefully that's a good sign. Will keep you posted.
Quick update - haven't had a whole lot of progress due to study/exams etc, but knocked a few things off in the last couple of weeks and keen to get it happening. Front brakes are ready to go back on once the pads show up. Making up a bracket today for the headlights, get that and the front indicators wired up. Managed to finally get hold of a 2001 R6 rear subframe and fairings for about half of what the local wreckers quoted, so thats coming up from Melbourne next week and then we can crack on with that.
Headlight bracket came up nicely, lights are wired up and the indicators mounted (just have to put the resistors in).7188
TillerRider
14-09-2015, 11:30 PM
great progress with this little gem, will be nice to see the finished product!
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Quick mock-up with the R6 fairing (sitting over the original subframe, will be changing that over), I'm pretty happy with how it looks if we can get it to sit like that. Now just to get the R6 subframe to fit, possibly have to remove the airbox by the look of things. Looks like there is plenty of room to fit an oil tank in there too.
GammaBoy
21-09-2015, 07:20 PM
Keep the airbox, they're shit with pod filters on.
Will do. Obviously not as simple as I first thought. Should be able to just squeeze it in.
This has the potential to end up an absolute cracker of a bike when your finished, ill be watching this one closely
LKC73
01-10-2015, 07:20 AM
First time I am on here and look what I see, and RGV build! Woot! Mate I look forward to seeing your little machine being built.
I have done a number of RGV's over some years but all for racing or track duties. A fighter unit would be cool to see.
peter187
01-10-2015, 11:03 AM
Keep the airbox, they're shit with pod filters on.
+1 on this
7511
Well I've finally got some motivation to get some work done on the bike, been sitting for a while as I've been flat out with work and study. Also, not being able to weld myself has not helped the situation. We ended up modifying the original subframe to fit the R6 fairings, the top is on and the undertray just needs a little more adjusting to fit. The good news is that pretty much everything electrical will go back in it's place without much fuss. Have also been able to keep the oil tank, moved it forwards a bit and the filler will sit under the rear seat cowl. I only managed one quick snap while we were working on it yesterday, I'll get some proper ones next time. Also got the front brakes sorted, some minor electrical stuff to do (tail light, new flasher relay, rear indicators, horn, fix the neutral indicator) once the rear is finished.
Gix11
04-04-2016, 09:43 AM
Good to see you getting back into it mate.
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