Joycie's 7/11

[Joycie]

Right. I haven’t been around much here lately so a quick recap before I start rambling. (Yes, I have introduced myself in ‘Welcome to the Madness’). Brought the 7/11 over 12 months ago from a fellow member, a bit rough but it is the later slingshot frame /engine combination I was after. Had a mad scramble to get it cobbled back together and running before rego ran out which is about the time of my last burst of activity on the forum.

Had a good 6months on the bike (read: surprised I got her through rego and rode the hell out of it while ignoring any and all issues that didn’t need to be addressed immediately). Life threw me and the family a few challenges so bike was parked up, no riding, no fettling to address the many issues I had found while getting to know the bike.

Things with family have settled down a bit and rego is looming again so let the work begin. Bear with me as little time and little budget means progress will be slow and I’m sure at times nonexistent.

Like most of you I’m sure, I scour that site looking for bargains and only buy if it’s something that is a bargain or can’t be done without (yes they are few and far between). So I won’t say that the bike will look like such and such when it’s finished, as I’m sure will be constantly changing and as such never finished. What I will say is that I’m crushing on the Gary Inman’s ‘Black Arrow’ and the Racefit bikes and check their site weekly for any updates. Not your usual High-end components (i.e. Marzocchi, AP Racing) bought together on old school engine/frames that looks some how rough but finished if that makes sense. In my opinion, Tough as. My budget will not allow me to get that level of componentry and the choice of frame/engine is a little newer but hopefully I change achieve that ‘Look’. Then again maybe not.

To start things off something needed to be done with the exhaust. I had been warned last year whilst scraping through for a pink slip. This is what it originally looked like.
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A little more detail of the old end can. Needless to say it did little to reduce noise, very offensive, loved it.
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Scored a crashed Yoshi end can for a dollar off that site. The outer skin was goosed but the baffle and end caps weren't too bad. Ordered a new outer from the local, trip to Bunnings for some staino rivets and already had some packing for the dirt squiter. Got the can together and took a trip to the local muffler joint and they knocked up a link pipe out of 304 stainless and ended up with this.
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Enough, kids asleep, rum calling, All Blacks v Wallabies 12 all.

[ozzy1100]

Seems all is well in the world

[geesexar]

nice mate i love old skool suzukis keep it comin

[Joycie]

All is not well in the world.

Went to take the bike out for a test on sunday after a quick check over. Wheeled her out to the front of the drive, warmed her up. Went to throw her in gear but end up with a grinding clunk before stalling.

F@CK, into neutral, starter her up again, clutch in and still doesn't want to go. F@CK F@CK F@CK.

Clutch lever felt fine but check reservoir anyway. Fluid is not exactly mint but at least it's full. I've one of those cheap Chinese billet sprocket covers so can see slave cylinder/actuating rod working when pulling the clutch.

Have resigned to the idea that I'm not going anywhere and need to take the cover off and have a look. The clutch has had some slip when hot before this so ordered a clutch kit as well as some gaskets and back in the garage to drop the oil.

In an attempt to make oil changes easier/cleaner and therefore more frequent, I put one of these oil drain valves in instead of the sump plug last oil change. Basically it's a small locking ball valve.
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Makes dropping the oil very simple. Not sure about the 90 Deg. elbow on the bottom whilst taking on speed humps or my loading ramp. There is an internal plug (think medium size grub screw) available that screws in instead of the 90 Deg. elbow but I just keep forgetting to order one.
Any way easier/cleaner plan goes wrong when removing the filter as the filter once unscrewed has to slide out from behind my headers from the right hand side right where the elbow for the oil cooler lines run. So in order to pull the unscrewed (and full) oil filter from behind the headers I also have to remove the oil cooler line as well. So I've come up with a plan to use a dry break connection on my oil cooler line to hopefully achieve the easier/cleaner plan. I ordered a few fittings from the local Autobarn and will let you know how I get on. I know I'll probably still spill oil from the filter on the headers and fill the garage with smoke and fume for the first start up.

Got distracted spending money so haven't even pulled the clutch cover to look for original problem.

[stiffsimon]

That's a good idea and something I was considering using on mine. Your oil drain valve looks to be quite bulky, maybe one of these http://www.stahlbus.com/products/en/oil-drain-valve/index.php might give you a little bit more room to play with as they are only 22mm-30mm long depending on your sump thread size.

[Joycie]

Damn, that valve from Stahlbus looks heaps more compact. Wish I' done a bit more searching. To tell the truth the drain valve I have is the first one I'd ever seen and just jumped at it.

Picked up the clutch parts I'd ordered earlier this week. They got here fast but paid through the nose for them, the other option was to wait a min. of get this 8 weeks for a rebuild kit (fibres and steels).
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Hmmm...........Maybe I need to clean up the work bench before I get to carried away.

[Joycie]

Picked up the Areoflow parts I had ordered to re-run my oil cooler lines.
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Made this bunch of parts look like this.
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Had ordered two straight fittings but wasn't till I had started putting it all together I found I actually needed two 45 Deg. fittings to go from the Drybreak connection to the nipple on the sump. Another trip to the shop to order more and hopefully have this sorted next week end.

Now time to get stuck into that bloody clutch.

[Joycie]

The manual I ordered three weeks ago still had not arrived today but got a few extra minutes in the garage tonight so ripped the clutch cover off and got this far.
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There must be online manuals available but have only done a half hearted search.
Before I start swinging off that 2" nut can some one confirm that there are no odd threads in there (i.e. all threads are lefty loosey righty tighty?).
And if it can't be budged with a bar any con's of sticking the rattled gun on it?

Hopefully the bloody manual I've paid for turns up before I start putting t back together.

[Gix11]

Yea, the threads are all normal mate. I usually stick a piece of softwood through the back wheel so the spokes and swinarm lock up then use a 5ft hollow bar (actually an old bar-bell from a weight lifting kit) on the end of the breaker bar. I guess rattle gun would also work.

[Joycie]

So with only being a little closer to solving my clutch woes it was nice to have a bit of a pick me up arrive via courrier today whilst at work. 1 pair of 2005 GSXR 1000 forks and bottom triple.
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Couldn't resist bolting on the rest of my parts cache, you know just to see what it looks like.

Planned on using 'All Balls' head stem bearings with the new bottom triple and stem but am wondering what to do about steering lock stops. I'm after something simple and clean so ideally I'd get a new bottom made up from scratch to match my RME top clamp but sadly funds are dwindling fast.

So what have other come up with? Have searched for some info on fork swaps on slingshot GSXR's and haven't found anything yet. Have found some on bandits but not Slingshots.

[Keithdavisau]

I put a 2008 gsxr 1000 set on my 88 frame i used the 2008 botom tripple and stem i groung off the stops and welded a new stop on the front to hit the original frame stops. I just had to work out how wide it had to be to work at both locks. See pictures hope the help.60466047

[Joycie]

Sorted out my so called clutch issue last Friday, checked my lights, topped up the oil and took off Saturday morning to get a pink slip down the road.

Got knocked back straight away on the exhaust before I had even started it up. F@ck. Took one look at the Yoshi can and said nup.F@ck F@ck. Asked him what it would take for him to get it through, said he wanted to see something on the end can that said it was ADR compliant. F@ck. Asked if I had it noise tested would that be enough but still nup.
Really? I explained that the bike is 24 years old and that original exhausts in working order are few and far between and that if I could find one I’d have one. Didn’t get any reaction.
So the only way I can see out of it is to get an OEM muffler of something else and make it fit. Even then I can’t remember OEM stuff having anything on it about actually being ADR compliant just stuff about exhaust volume. Just hoping if he can see I’ve made the effort and the bike actually is quiet it will be enough. Can anyone shed some light on the subject? Even better can anyone recommend some one that is sympathetic to the common Streetfighter around rego time? In the Illawarra but will travel if it means I don’t have to the whole 3month inspection drama.

Oh, he also mentioned my nonexistent chain guard. Ordered and payed for one only to find the delivery time may be October so off to Bunnings I went to gather the raw materials for the least Ghetto chain guard my fabrication skills could muster.
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[BOBBY]

Where abouts in the illawarra are you from mate? Mind telling me where you took it so I can avoid them.
Most car mechanics wouldn't know shit about bikes so it should pass easy.

[Joycie]

Hey Bobby, I'm down in Shell Cove so usually use CJ's in Oakflats but they don't do pink slips anymore. Had no drama's with em last year. Tried the Skooter joint just south of CJ's this time mainly for convenience but no love.

[BOBBY]

I'm just up the road a bit in crapto. Keen for a ride once you get it sorted.

Take it to where you take your car and ask them what the chances are of passing it. Never taken mine to a bike mechanic.
They ask too many questions.

[Joycie]

Cheers Bobby will take you up on that but at this rate it may be a while. I was thinking that a bike shop might be more sympathetic but I now know different. have already bought something to hopefully get me across the line so will persevere a little more with this bloke.

So this turned up today6068
Just hope I can make it fit. It's OEM off a 2013 GSXR 750. Can anyone tell me if they're stainless? It's pretty light though, it wouldn't help my cause if Ti though as my exhaust bloke is pretty good I'm pretty sure they don't do a lot of titainium.

[latheboy]

Don't know if it's S/S or Ti..
Why would it matter to your exhaust bloke if it is Ti? Wouldn't you just make a link pipe and mount it with the V band?

[Joycie]

It's hard to tell from the pic I posted but the curved inlet of the end can is roughly at 45Deg. and the outlet of my headers is biased to the right side of the bike due to the shape of the sump. If I mount the can similarly to the one that's currently on it (most simple mount) also on the right side there is about about 6inches of room for the link pipe and while eyeing it up it looks as if the end can inlet will be down the centre of the bike if not the left side. So the link pipe would have 6inches in which to form an'S' shape.

I know that's a crap explanation which a couple of pic's could of clarified but hey it's early alright.


Latheboy, it's a bit more work than I envisaged but if it was stainless I could have the inlet of the end can cut and welded at a less aggressive angle.

Will pull the exhaust tonight and see if I can make up a hanger bracket that will hopefully lesson the problem.

[BOBBY]

You're persistent I'll give you that haha!

If he knocks you back again I'm fairly certain you can take it elsewhere as he doesn't do any paper work till it passes yeah?

What exhaust guy are you using?
I done my own but my welder has since packed it in.
The muffler shop at dapto is good. Good bloke loves a chat.

[Joycie]

Yeah I guess, I kinda just want it sorted so that I don't have to go through this every year. Yeah that's right Bobby, doesn't do any paperwork till he passes it so it doesn't hurt other than wasting time.

Using Oak Flats Muffler Men, they did the link pipe for the Yoshi end can that usually lives on the bike. The were pretty quick (fitted me in there and then and took 2-3hrs) and cost bugger all.

Hopefully this gives a better idea of what I'm dealing with the new end can.
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Could have been worse I suppose, just means more stuffing about for a link pipe to fit.

A little side profile, not too bad for an OEM pipe and light too.
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Had it loaded up on the ute but didn't get to the muffler joint today.

[ozzy1100]

if it was me I would look at cutting up the tube off the can to improve the angle so you have a beet line from the colector to
the conection in the pic.
we did something clopse to the same with wackyriders k4 except in reverse

[BOBBY]

I had to do a similar thing with mine. I just turned the collector of the headers but like ozzy said it'll probably be easier to turn the pipe on the can. I only done it that way cause I could weld mild steel not stainless.

[ozzy1100]

s/s is one of the nicest things to weld, ti dosnt seem to weld much diffrent. I used of cuts of jules's link pipe to make filler rod
and treated it like s/s and it welded lovely

[ozzy1100]

just to add, welding the pipe is the easiest bit, fit up is where you spend most of your time

[BOBBY]

I'd love to learn to weld properly. Any schmuck can mig weld. Especially gasless.
I did spend a bit of time cutting angles and turning them to get the right fit though. Kinda know what you're saying.

[Joycie]

I'm with you Bobby, I'd love to learn to tig properly. I salivate over the race fit ti stuff regularly.

Well WTF does a bloke have to do to catch a break with this bike eh?

Have been crook the last week and works been busy so have been off the ball a little lately but got the bike to the exhaust joint last Friday. Had a link pipe made up for the OEM Gsxr end can and it looks sweet. Unloaded it Friday night and tried to kick it in the guts to hear the new pipe.
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Nothing but the click of the relay. Couldn’t deal with it then as had to pack for a family trip. Just shock my head drank the rest of my beer and went back inside.

So today checked the battery but reading over 12V, checked lead from starter relay to started for open circuit but all good, pulled the starter hooked the lead back up and hit the button and it spun up.
Oh F@CK. Now I’m really thinking I haven’t seized the thing …………have I?????

Rack my brain, last time I rode it for an hr max, still has plenty of oil (drained 4.5lt out of it and it’s still brand new) didn’t run hot can’t remember any weird noises.

So I drain the oil again (for the 3rd time in 6 weeks I swear I should be buying this stuff in 20ltr drums) and took the starter gear cover off stuck a 17mm socket on the crank and to my relief was able to rotate it both ways. Thank F@ck. Had a look around in there and there was nothing out of the ordinary, nothing foreign floating around, nothing jammed between teeth. The idler gear between the starter and crank looked all good and the shaft it rides on didn’t have any slop on the cover or in the case. So I stuck the starter back in and with the cover off gave the starter button a quick hit and no binding crunching or anything out of the ordinary, just the starter turning the crank. Put the cover back on and hit the button again and it cranked over with out drama.

WTF??? Anyone had this before?

Am pretty stoked the engine isn’t goosed completely but something is not right. Not what you’d like repeated whilst away from the garage either.

[Gix11]

This sort of thing usually ends up being electrical in older bikes. Have you checked all the connections and any sidestand, clutch lever kill switches?

[Joycie]

Yeah Gix, I checked pretty much all I could between the battery, starter and starter relay. But it would not surprise me if the problem was electrical as I believe my bikes biggest fault (and it has a few) is it's electrics, starting with the loom and spreading far and wide.

A new loom is next on the must do (not the to do list as never gets done) after rego. Any good build threads?

[Gix11]

7/11? Try Deano's EFI turbo.

http://www.streetfighters.com.au/forum/showthread.php?1022-Deano-s-GSXR-turbo-with-f-inj-update-20-10-11

[Joycie]

Found myself in North Sydney yesterday so made a point of getting in to Extreme Creations. Not the first time I been in but the first time I've had a chat to Ben and have a good sticky.

Nice bloke and very helpful.............maybe too helpful. Went in for a reservoir and have a chat about a bottom clamp. After looking at the Busa out front definitely going for the blacked out look now.

Going to try and get the bars as clean and uncluttered as possible (saw the Motogadget mini & his reservoir clamp button set ups). Getting a simple clean black bottom triple clamp made up to match the top, all black reservoirs for my master cylinders and going to pull my forks apart and get the stanchions anodized black. Have R6 radial calipers and thinking of getting the yellow piston caps anodized black as well. And the list goes on and on and on.

Could so easily be sleeping in the doghouse as I had the credit card with me as well (I'm quite proud of my restraint). The place is filled with not just bike porn but fighter porn, if any body needs inspiration to get a build going again go and see this place.

[Gix11]

You did well to resist mate, that place is dangerous for a credit card.

[Joycie]

Woohooo Christmas came early today. (Surprised to see OZ post working on a Sunday guess Christmas is really here)
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Que practicing popping the imaginary wheel up and down the driveway with new clutch whilst making vroom vroom noises. Entertained the neighbours.
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Also stripped forks to send off to get outers reannodised
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[aaa123]

When you get forks done, what colour ? same colour or different ?

How much do they charge ?

[Joycie]

Looking to get the fork outers re anodised black instead of the factory gold. Not sure what the cost will be for the forks as I'm getting a few other things anodised as well, like the gold piston caps off some R6 radial calipers.

Speaking of which anyone pulled these apart before? Have ordered a key/tool to fit the old blue spots, just crossing my fingers hoping the caps are the same.

[Joycie]

Got this in the mail on Saturday (gotta love christmas posties) from the UK
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So pulled the piston caps out of the calipers to get them annodised black.
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Was expecting the caps to be a little tighter than they were. Can't imagine I would have removed them though, without completely chewing them out if I didn't have that nifty little bugger.

Not going to help me stop any better/faster/easier, but will hopefully look different or more to the point not stick out like dogs balls with the rest of the black front end.

[Gix11]

I'm with you all the way mate! Gold forks suck in my eyes. The black will look heaps better.

[wackyrider]

See, I actually like the look of gold forks. But it would really suck if we all liked the same things...

[Gix11]

Exactly mate!

[Joycie]

OK Been away a while Christmas, Kids, work, Blah, Blah, Blah.

Not all bad though as have been slowly chipping away at updating front end.

So got these back just after christmas
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Must say Bens work is awsome

[Joycie]

Also picked up new wheel and some disks
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[Joycie]

Got a 2nd hand fender last week that I hit with the Dremel. Had an old Motard tyre in the garage so got that fitted up as well.
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Have a new wave headlight fitted up but undecided if it will stay on there.

Need to figure out brake line routing and measure up. Want some those dry break fittings as well anyone had any have any experience with them?

The biggest thing holding me up is the head bearings. Caution Whinge ahead. Ordered and paid a deposit for an 'AllBallz' conversion top and bottom bearings to use the K5 stem from the local shop in December. Went in 4 weeks later to find out where they were only to be told that they hadn't actually been ordered. F@ck me. Gave them a 2nd chance and stood there while they actually placed the order over the phone. Got a call last thursday from the shop and yep you guessed it, won't be in for another 3 weeks. F@ck F@ck F@ck. If they actually turn up then that'll be 4 months F@ck. End of whinge

[BOBBY]

Local shop? Wouldn't be near a maccas by any chance? I understand your frustration if it was.

Those brake lines. Go see brake smart on montague st north woolongong and ask for Pete. He'll look after and he knows his shit.

[Joycie]

Yeah Bob. I keep giving them second chances hoping that they'll come good but it's happened a few times now. Anything other than OEM parts and your definitly asking for trouble. Will have to try Nowra, not exactly convenient But good excuse for a ride south though. Will stop whinging now, promise.

Brake Smart eh? Am trying Helperformance at the moment. Rang the guy today but he's run off his feet. Have you had lines made by Pete?

[BOBBY]

My good mechanic mate uses him all the time. Another mate has had braided lines made up for his cars without issue. I'll be going in soon for lines for my xy when funds build up again too. If I had standard lines on my cbr I'd probably already have been there. Actually the rear brake is still rubber.... Hmmm
I believe they can resleeve cylinders on site, maybe they can do lines too.

That particular shop is not high on my list of places to buy stuff from. Bikes especially. He boss man is trying to sell his place out on tongarra rd at the moment. I think he's asking too much.

[Nudie]

I've had brake lines made for my bike at Brakemart in Montague St. No problems and not a bad price from memory.

I didn't think tj had been in that place on Tongarra Rd long enough to be selling up. Must need the $$

[Joycie]

WOOHOOO, finally got my bearings in and the Postie had a package for me last Friday morning.
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So got busy yesterday arvo turning this
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into this
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(Basically a mess in the garage)

Found it had no dust seal between the bottom fork clamp and bottom bearing. Plan on trying to knock the bearing shells out this arvo but there doesn't look like there is much of a lip to get a purchase on with a drift (read through tang flat head).

Any tips or tricks any one could share on getting them out?

Disregard my last. Turns out that while there aren't any notches in the head stock up behind the top bearing shell but there is on the bottom. I'd just had a "Girl" look and there were notches hiding under some grease. Oddly enough the top shell without notches was easier to get out than the bottom.

[Joycie]

So after waiting on steering head bearings then finding I had fucked the top dust seal taking the old front end off and then waiting for a new one to come in. This new front end install has had so many false starts it’s really wearing thin.

Finally with all the bearings and seals I was keen to get cracking. So with new bearing shells into headstock, new bottom bearing seal and bearing on the stem I offered up the bottom clamp to the frame. This is what I found.
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So top of the bottom clamp is just fouling the frame. loosened the top stem nut and dropped the clamp through the headstock 5mm and it clears the frame, but now fouls the oil cooler. Also won’t be able to use the fork mount indicators I got from Extreme Creations. Yep cue plenty of swearing and drowning of sorrows with rum.
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Next problem was using the K5 stem and stem nuts I can’t just whack on the slingshot top dust seal on.
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I think there is enough room that I can get around this with some spacers. But with all this shenanagans, the budget for the purchase of the long awaited lathe has been reduced to $0. The list of jobs is growing rather than getting smaller godammit.

Anyone want to share suggestions or able to knock out some spacers for me?

[Joycie]

So had a chat to Ben at Extreme about the issues with the bottom triple and sent it back to him. He had it sorted and back to me within the week. Bloody Legend. He pushed the stem 6mm further up through the bottom triple, made up a 6mm spacer for on top of the bottom triple, made up a 6mm longer lock stop striker, had all that anodized black and also made up a spacer so I can use another slingshot top headstock dust seal.
Refitted reworked triple clamp and it now works a treat clearing the frame and the striker hits the lock stops before the forks touch the frame. Sweet.
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However the sweetness is short lived when I fit the fork mount indicators above the triple clamp. There is no way they are going to live there. So refit indicators under the bottom clamp and they may be happy there after I remake a new bracket to hang the oil cooler off. Annoying but no biggy at first, vey annoying after making the bracket for the 4th time. Even then had to take out some material for the indicators to clear bracket. Not entirely happy with it, but I think it got the better of me for now. 6571
Moving the oil cooler down to clear the fork mount indicators has had a knock on effect with the oil cooler lines now sitting on the headers. So back to making more f@cking oil cooler brackets.
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Might take a break from the hacksaw and file and set up the accelerator cable kit.
I naively thought that as I had all the parts required to swap the front end out I would have been back riding this thing weeks ago.

[slingy88]

Damn, I feel your pain. Having similar issues with replacing my 1052cc engine with a bandit 12.
Even though they are similar, there are enough differences to fuck me in the arse, every single step of the bastard way.
I am collecting parts to do a usd front end on my gsxr as well. I have purposely found myself some L/M tripples so I know they will just bolt in to the frame. Not bling but a guaranteed fit. Then hopefully have some zx10r fork legs, which are the right length and diameters to fit the tripples so should be an easy fit hopefully. Famous last words lol

[Joycie]

Right so after 6 weeks of dicking around with oil cooler brackets I've finally manage to make one that clears the the forks, fork mounted indicators, frame and exhaust after five five attempts.
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But in my defense, lately I get exactly as much time as it takes my eldest to watch Disney's Cars/Planes to work on the bike. I guess I should be thankful I've a Telly in the garage.

I've also been distracted by this6616


As the new bars are now much higher I've have sorted a new/longer accelerator cable but need to do something about switch blocks wiring. Was just going to cut, solder and heat shrink wiring extentions. Any suggestions on a tidy solution?

[wackyrider]

Before you go through all the headache of cutting and soldering, remove your tank & airbox and check if you can re-route the cables. I have never had to extend these before, there's usually a better way of routing them to get the added length that you need.

[Watto]

Hey mate

with the issue with the top stem nut, cant remember if it was Deano or someone else but when I put a K4 front end on the slingy, the solution was to machine a step into the K4 nut to make it work - will see if I can find the info

[Joycie]

Watto, there didn't look like there was enough meat on the original stem nut to machine a step deep enough into it and still put tension on it/tighten it. So Ben made up a thin/light kinda top hat spacer to sit inside the Slingshot dust seal. Using this set up however meant that I could only use one of the original stem nuts rather than the 2 nuts (tension nut and lock nut) as the new spacer had taken the space of the original tension nut, if that makes sense.
Ended up drilling the one original stem nut and lock wiring it to the drilled aftermarket top clamp nut I've got.
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You can just see the top of the new spacer between the dust seal and the 1 original stem nut.


Wacky, I wish I could just reroute. It seems too short a switch block wiring is the least of my electrical troubles, I've this to contend with as well.
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It would seem just ignoring the problem of a 25yr old bodged wiring loom has not fixed itself as I had hoped some time ago.
Further investigation under the rolls of electrical tape revealed someone else had the same idea with the switch block wiring some time ago.
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Anyone know of a bike electrician or anyone who's handy at making custom looms/wiring in the Sydney area? That really needs to be sorted.

[BOBBY]

How good is wiring? I'm in the same boat with mine. Half a keg of spaghetti under my tank. Now I've got a short somewhere.
You're nearly there bud.

[Joycie]

Thought I had this front end sorted this week end. Rego notice received last week so must get cracking.

Have been chipping away at the wiring for the last couple of weeks and although it's far from perfect it's much better than it was. I've a much better understanding of what's going on with the wiring loom and how it is wired (it differs quite a bit from the Haynes manual schematic) but this only highlights the many more improvements to be made in the future. The 6 core trailer cable will definitely be replaced soon.

So went over the front brakes last night and started bleeding. Took forever to get any feel in the lever. To be fair though the whole system was completely dry, i.e. new master cyl., lines and rebuilt calipers. Had to push a heap back though bleed nipples to really get started. Still not happy with it though, other than a pressure bleeder any tips? I've gone through 2 $20 cans of fluid so far and haven't touched the clutch yet.

Went to plumb the new clutch master up and found the 3 single banjos I have are 1.5 pitch thread (Japanese?) and the only 1.0 pitch thread banjo (Italian?) I have that I needed was a double banjo. Hmmm. So if it were not for that I imagine I would of been on the road this afternoon.

In reality though I would of been dealing with the effects of standing a bike for an extended period (stale fuel, carb issues, flat battery, blah, blah).

Pushed it out in the sun to clean off the brake fluid I missed in the Rum induced haze from last night. Couldn't resist a few pics.
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Bounced up and down on the forks before tightening axle and pinch bolts. Was expecting to have to trim the back of the front guard back for clearance at the oil cooler but it looks like it'll be ok. Won't really know till I hit the first sodded bump.
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Wanted to 'Clean the bars up' a bit but have retained the old Slingy Left switch block as time is running out. Looks a bit scummy compared to the right side, have a small dirt bike switch block to replace it with when time allows. Not happy with the look, placement or function of the speedo but again it will do for now/rego till I can afford a motogadget unit and all the bits need to make it work.
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So close to being back on the road. I was thinking about paint, new tails/seats, swing arms just last week before rego notice arrived. All that has since gone now I just want to go for a ride.

[Gix11]

Good to see it outside the shed!

[geesexar]

well done mate lookin sweet

[ozzy1100]

looking very nice, good build

[Bob]

Looks cool mate

[BillyBob]

Just read from start to finish, should be proud dude you've done an awesome job.
You have just made me want to find a gix 11!

[hyofighter]

Top stuff man . Hows the brakes feel after it sat for a bit . I remember fitting a twin line kit to the hyo of all things and bleeding it was a pain and still felt spongy after even pressure bleed but i rode it home and the next morning it felt great not sure why but im thinking gravity and the air bubble found its way out . Not sure if it relates to bikes as such but every time ive fitted a brake master to a car ive alway pressure bleed it on the bench too is suprising how much air gets trapped in a master cylinder

[Joycie]

Hey thanks for the compliments fella's. The photo's are actually quite flattering as it doesn't show the blemished/discoloured paint, tarnished semi-polished frame. Needless to say I like them.

Hyo, the brakes have been a pain in the ass tbh. Just pouring fluid in the res. and pumping away did absolutely nothing at all. Had to pressure bleed the master cylinder to get any fluid moving at all. Then pressure bled both calipers and tried bleeding the system normally without success (ie. still nothing coming out caliper bleed nipples). Wasn't till I isolated one caliper (easy with the quick release brakeline fittings) that I got movement of fluid. Did the same with the other side, used 500ml of fluid (2 $20 cans) and it still felt spongy. Heard that applying pressure to the master cylinder over night also helps so cable tied the lever back to the grip during the week and to my suprise it actually helped.

But considering on paper I've a pretty good front brake system ie. new RCS master cylinder, new braided brake lines, new discs and rebuilt calipers I'm not that impressed really. The one week link is the pads are of unknown origin (the ones that came with the calipers 2nd hand). I really should know better. Brakes are good enough to get me through rego check hopefully next weekend, and looking at some EBC GPFax HH pads. Anyone had experience with them or can recommend something?

[Joycie]

It Lives
6992
(Saddleback mountain)

Although found the new speedo completely blank on the way home, no back light only indicator lights.
Pulled up at home and no rear tail or brake light. GGGGGGGRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR

Few questions. Left tank/frame pad has come off, now tank is rattling like f@ck and rubbing on frame.
6994
Still have the rubber but what can use to stick this bugger to the frame? Have tried loctite 913(superglue) and Selleys Rubber grip(?)
6993

Also need/want to replace the positive battery terminal cover.
6995
Trying to reduce some of the inevitable electrical disasters. Have looked through the local parts availability thingy and like most stuff I want it's unavailable.
Tried generic auto elec. manufacturers like Narva but only stuff I can find is for cars/trucks.

[Gix11]

That tank rubber things happens all the time mate. I ditched the stock ones and went out and bought a whole heap of thick rubber with adhesive backing and went overkill right around the tank in different spots to stop the noise and rubbing. All out of sight, and works a treat.

[Joycie]

Thanks Gix, will head down to Clark Rubber this week end and see what they can offer.

Had today off crook, so instead of camping on the lounge (not that I'd get any peace there) I pulled up in the garage. Had a proper look at the wiring to see why I've no speedo or tail lights. I pretty much just took the tank off, poked at the loom and left in disgust last week end before the temptation to take to it with the hammer overcame me.

It turns out that the frame/tank(?) rubber coming off and my new electrical issues were no coincidence.
70087009
The absence of the frame rubber has dropped the tank down just enough that the Pingel fuel tap to squash the 12v supply to the speedo against the oil take off at the back of the head.

Replaced damaged section of wiring, added some extra layers of heat shrink, pulled loom back hard against L/H top frame rail, Temporarily re-attached frame rubber with some double sided trim tape and made a mental note to check this everytime re-installing the tank.

Speaking re-installing the tank, Ive pretty much had this tank on and off again at least twice a week for the last 5 weeks. Although I've now got the process down pat (other than squashing wires) there must be a faster better way to disconnect the fuel lines. Obviously this is low buck build so the 'Staubli' fuel specific dry break fittings are out of the question, thinking about trying the appropriately low buck plastic dirt bike equivalent.
http://thirdgear.com.au/fuel-line-fast-connector/ http://thirdgear.com.au/fuel-line-fast-connector/
Anyone had any experience with these? Thinking they may reduce fuel flow but then again so would a partially blocked inline fuel filter and to be honest I've never checked them prior to having fueling issues. Maybe they would be just another thing to check if/when I do have dramas.

Doc's tomorrow hopefully get out on it Saturday for a successful test run.

[Gix11]

You get used to pulliong the tanks on and off of these things mate! My hose is still fine, Are you worried about flogging the hose out or just the pain in the arse it is?

[Joycie]

Not worried about the hose being damaged, (I've ended up with a few meters of the stuff) it's just a pain in the arse thb.

It's all good in the garage with the bike cold, nice and straight on the lift and the tank securely propped up. But I had the tank off last week in a rest area during a run last weekend (attempting to diagnose no tail/brake light). That was painful fishing around for fuel line clips with one hand while balancing a full tank with the other, bike canted over on side stand.

Some would suggest focusing on fixing the dramas underneath the tank therefore negating having to remove the tank so regularly or conduct such roadside acrobatics.

[slingy88]

Keep at it mate, like has been said many times, " If it was easy, everyone would be doing it".
For the frame rubbers, I used impact adhesive. It's messy stuff so mask up the frame to the exact dimension of the rubber. Apply to the frame. Apply to the clean rubber. Leave untill they both feel dry to the touch (5 mins or so) press together and remove tape from frame. Done ;-)

[Joycie]

YYYYEEEEEEESSSSSSSSSSSSSSS

Had the bike out for a successful run this arv. Sun was out, 24 Deg., nothing fell off to my knowledge and it still works (well, as good as it ever has) even built up the courage to stop in the main street without constantly worrying if the bastard would start again.

Bring on the Rego check

70317032

[Yella]

Awesome, love the look

[Gix11]

Ditto.

[Bob]

Top stuff mate. Looks great

[BOBBY]

Spotted you this arvo on Shellharbour rd. You overtook me and I followed you into the village.
Bike looks tough. Just as a fighter should.

[Joycie]

Ha Ha, Grey 4wd, Metallica Sticker on back window?

Yes quick squirt this arvo, swamp Rd. to saddleback Mtn. Then home via the village.

Nothing like a rip in some twisty's to forget about the week.

PM you next time

[BOBBY]

That's it man. If I was serving like a spaz it's cause I was looking at your bike hahaha!

Mine is off the road still. Hoping to have it sorted by convoy.

[Joycie]

Leading up to Christmas is a pretty heavy time of year for some, not only the hectic work schedule gets worse but the social/extended family commitments seem to stack up as well. For some, leading into thoughts of those that will no longer be sharing the usual family Christmas catch ups and festivities.

Wifey, could see my edges were seemingly quite raged through the week and unbeknown to me had pre-planned some garage/ride time yesterday even though there were family catch ups, lunches to be attended and all the while juggling two tired little monsters in the heat. She'll probably never read this but, thanks Boss, don't know what I'd do without you.

So, got out for a blast in the sun, a little overcast, not boiling hot, minimal traffic, perfect. Parked up in Kiama, grabbed a drink and on the way back to the bike noticed over a car bonnet some weirdo had a pink master cylinder Res. cap on their ride. WTF, each to there own I guess. Wasn't till I got to the other side of the car that the penny dropped, the bike with the gaudy accessory belongs to me. Hmmm, now I've no excuse for this as I've had VERY expensive Brembo RCS clutch master with one of Ben's tidy reservoirs tucked away for the last couple of months. Why wasn't on the bike? I think I had convinced myself I needed a new clutch line for some reason and a Brembo banjo bolt. A set of bargain supermoto wheels for the dirt bike also led into the start of another project as well. On arriving home had a dig through the spares store (read: crap covering bench and boxes a random bits) and found the required banjo and inspection of the existing brake line showed no reason why it couldn't be used again. Color matched the front brake lines, even found two unopened cans of brake fluid, Win.

so removed this
7361
and replaced with this
7362
much better
7363
If it's anything like the brake master on the other side of the bars I'll still be bleeding this thing next week.
The view from the saddle is now only ruined by the scabby old switch block on the left and the acewell. Progress is progress though, however small (and expensive).

I went to the Sydney bike expo and dunno what I was expecting but was a little underwhelmed. Can't please everyone though eh. The one thing that did stick in my mind was the Deus 'R nine T' at the BMW stand. The bike is a pretty cool take on the ever popular modern cafe craze, but the main thing that stuck out for me was the 'Motogadget' gear on it in particular the 'Motoscope Pro' dash. But there is a pretty big leap between the $180 Acewell currently on the bike and the $600+ what ever accessories it take to run it. Some of those tasty 'M Button' switches would certainly remedy the old switch block that I've got as well.

Nice to dream though eh, and who knows how far Santa can stretch the credit card.

[Gix11]

That master is heaps better. As for the show, it always underwhelms.