Regulator/rectifier relocation - pics please!

[Dano919]

Gentlemen,
You may or may not have seen my hornet project in the builds section, I am after inspiration and pics of where you have relocated your regulator/rectifiers. Right now on the hornet it swings around behind the rear shock like a ballsack on a cold winters morning, catching the breeze and looking shrivelled. I know it needs some air flow around it, (read a heap of posts already) but am I risking failure placing it inside the tail on top of the frame where the pillion hump is? It will be the only thing in there so quite a bit of air space, just not as much breeze. Anyone share their experience after moving theirs to another location? You advice appreciated!

[hyofighter]

mate the vfr is common for chewing up reg and recs so i upgraded mine to one of a later model cbr1000 as it had larger cooling fins and a much larger surface area for cooling now the original one was also in a shit spot , i moved mine to under the rear hump havent had any dramas with it getting to hot it has a good bit of clearance around it too

[safighter]

check out last rapid bike magazine ,cover bike has used his as a feature between headlights

[EVLZX]

Should feel the reg after warm up, I'd make sure it's in an area with a decent amount of airflow.

[Dano919]

Cool thanks for the Infos guys. That bike looks pretty mean too I've seen that done before somewhere

[xa-mont]

mine is just under the rear seat, inside the tail unit.

One the stock RSV it was inside the side of the tail, so got no air flow there and where it is now has a little bit more air around it at least.

I've done decent size rides (450km) and not had any issues with the reg rec.

[aaa123]

What type of r/r is on your Hornet ?
Is it a Mosfet or non-mosfet type r/r, Mosfet has a marking of FH, non/mosfet has marking of SH.
If you have a non-mosfet r/r, maybe think about upgrading to a mosfet r/r.

[Redmohawk]

If you don't mind investing some time and effort , look into fucking off the crap old school design reg/rec all together and run a rec/boostbuck inverter. Advantages include more HP battery run at correct voltage at all times and less heat issues. Disadvantages , You'll have to sort it all yourself.

[ozzy1100]

If you don't mind investing some time and effort , look into fucking off the crap old school design reg/rec all together and run a rec/boostbuck inverter. Advantages include more HP battery run at correct voltage at all times and less heat issues. Disadvantages , You'll have to sort it all yourself.

And wtf is one of those things....

[xa-mont]

yeah red... WTF!?!?

[Redmohawk]

Almost 100% of bikes now days use a 6 diode bridge rectifier. Turns the 3 phase AC output from your bikes generator into a DC supply with a voltage above 14v then the Regulator part of the circuit is basicly a zenor Diode , this shorts the output to ground Via a resistor to reduce the voltage down to 13.8 volts By shunting current to earth.

So your bikes generator is always putting out full power 100% of the time (and dragging this power from your engine, hence the reason some racers run total loss systems). This can be several HP at high rpms

If the battery and or light etc isnt using all of the power avalable the zenor diode is shunting the excess to the frame and turning it into heat. Hence why the the Reg/Rec unit in some bikes runs hot and fails. A Bike with a high output generator is just dragging more power from your engine, If its not used its just wasted and burning up your Reg/Rec.

A better smarter option would be to use the same 6 diode bridge rectifier (can be bought off the shelf, Car units are cheap as) the output from this is run through a switch mode Buck regulator. Think a "voltage reducer" It takes the unregulated output and drops it down to the voltage you want (13.8v)

I'm happy to point you in the right direction and Jacar even used to make a kit that will do the job with some extras to handle the current . But I'm not building/designing one for you. Have a look here http://www.jaycar.com.au/images_uploaded/dcdcconv.pdf for basic circuit design (should be able to build a quite effecient unit for about $50 in a heatsunk case)

[ozzy1100]

We will do talks....

[Dano919]

Almost 100% of bikes now days use a 6 diode bridge rectifier. Turns the 3 phase AC output from your bikes generator into a DC supply with a voltage above 14v then the Regulator part of the circuit is basicly a zenor Diode , this shorts the output to ground Via a resistor to reduce the voltage down to 13.8 volts By shunting current to earth.

So your bikes generator is always putting out full power 100% of the time (and dragging this power from your engine, hence the reason some racers run total loss systems). This can be several HP at high rpms

If the battery and or light etc isnt using all of the power avalable the zenor diode is shunting the excess to the frame and turning it into heat. Hence why the the Reg/Rec unit in some bikes runs hot and fails. A Bike with a high output generator is just dragging more power from your engine, If its not used its just wasted and burning up your Reg/Rec.

A better smarter option would be to use the same 6 diode bridge rectifier (can be bought off the shelf, Car units are cheap as) the output from this is run through a switch mode Buck regulator. Think a "voltage reducer" It takes the unregulated output and drops it down to the voltage you want (13.8v)

I'm happy to point you in the right direction and Jacar even used to make a kit that will do the job with some extras to handle the current . But I'm not building/designing one for you. Have a look here http://www.jaycar.com.au/images_uploaded/dcdcconv.pdf for basic circuit design (should be able to build a quite effecient unit for about $50 in a heatsunk case)

Very interesting.........