Old Skool Gixxer fighter build

[Luppy]

hey guys,
Today I decided to uncover my 85 gsxr 750 and finish the fighter project i started about 10 years ago.
So far she has a K2 front end and tail which i think suits the bike nicely
Im looking at swapping out the original swingarm for a braced job from a '95 1100.
the new swinger is around 65 mm longer from pivot to axle and i'm not sure how this will effect handling.
does anyone have any thoughts on this.
an alternative option is to brace the orig swing arm, but i really like the '95's shape.
the second prob i have is that the K2 forks are approx 50mm shorter making the beast very twitchy.
does anybody know where i can get a dropped top clamp ?.

any help is much appreciated.

[K6Thou]

The 65mm of extra length in the swinger will barely be noticeable. Ben at extreme creations can do the dropped clamp but he also does screw in fork tube extensions, not sure if he does them for the K2 front end though...

[geesexar]

pics...or it never happened

[Luppy]

Today i realised that going from clipons to MX bars meant that my lines dont reach and the masters have angled reserviors.

can anybody give me any ideas where to source remote reservior cyls or bikes that suitable straight reservoirs can be sourced from.

the brake is 5/8"

thanks for any help

[Tony Nitrous]

My Busa clutch and brake master slope down now they are in Renthals not clip-on's.
Been like this for several years. Work fine. No drama's.

If your fussy, look at using some from any recent naked bike.
GSX14, B-King etc etc etc. heaps about .

[wackyrider]

Or alternatively get some aftermarket reservoirs. Plenty around

[Tony Nitrous]

Easy to change just the reservoirs IF you have clutch and brakes masters
with detachable reservoirs. Several of mine don't ;)

[Luppy]

Mine are all in one master and reservior. I'll split the lines from the masters today and mock them up.
Does any one know the easiest place to get lines made to length in Sydney?

[oldskool]

Ebay, ebay and ebay

[Luppy]

just ran into a small problem.... the pivot tube on the braced swinger is about 10mm larger than the stock jobby. this means the pivot tube will be rubbing hard against the back of the gearbox.... any ideas??5723

[Luppy]

That's sorted with some offsett bushes.

Does any one have a k1 style rear shock for sale?

[Luppy]

found a shock that will do the job , cbr600 was just the right length with a reservoir that was out the way of the swinger.5746

[Luppy]

now to make a bottom link to suit5747

[Luppy]

57485749

[Luppy]

had to make some proper subframe mounts, the ally brackes bolted to the stubs of the old subframe was a bit 'how you goin'
5750

[Gix11]

Nice work, you're flying now. Keep the updates coming.

[Luppy]

5770

[Luppy]

5772

[Luppy]

ready to bead blast and install
5774

[Luppy]

just finished welding and forming some lower subframe mounts
5775

[Luppy]

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m131/luppy001/9a83208c-0f74-48fc-9248-567742da390b_zps9b1b8441.jpg

[Luppy]

ha... i think i finally figured out photo bucket

[ozzy1100]

nice

[DCRacing]

looking good

[Luppy]

finally the shock is sitting pretty
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m131/luppy001/IMG_20140517_152550_295_zps9d5c081f.jpg

[Luppy]

My next step back was that the new swingarm has a much larger dia pivot tube compared to the stock unit. This mean the pivot hits the back of the gearbox.
2 beers later my initial solution was to machine up some offset spacers, press them in, weld them to hold them in place, and hopefully bobs your uncle.

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m131/luppy001/IMG_20140518_130553_621_zpsd2f88de6.jpg

[Luppy]

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m131/luppy001/IMG_20140518_144958_436_zpsb2ee341d.jpg

[Luppy]

ready to fit up

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m131/luppy001/IMG_20140518_144831_260_zpsbe3cb7fa.jpg

[ozzy1100]

nice solution

[Luppy]

Thanks mate, these beasties are almost more fun to build than they are to ride.

[ozzy1100]

How did you index the inserts to ensure the front pivot and rear axel stay level?

[latheboy]

How did you index the inserts to ensure the front pivot and rear axel stay level?

Blah blah blah, you worry too much ozzy.....


Hopefully you did index them in a jig and not just guess....

[ozzy1100]

Blah blah blah, you worry too much ozzy.....


Hopefully you did index them in a jig and not just guess....

yep silly me I make this stuff so much harder with silly details lol

[Luppy]

Good question ,
I marked the high point on each one while they were still in the four jaw chuck in the lathe, then used a block and scribe to mark a line across the pivot tube.

One thing I didn't count on is that when I pressed the inserts in they slightly ovalised (0.1mm) causing me to trash one of the bearings trying to get it out.

So tomorrow I'll need to go buy an adjustable reamer to clean them up a tad :-(
A wasted $16 for a bearing and prob a c-note for the reamer, but worth a fortune in 'dont do that again' experience

[ozzy1100]

even a fly shit on those offest can be1/2 a degree out easy..
4 tho out of round on that type bush with crush is not unusal.
If it was me(trust me im not oftern right) I would have looked at size to size or only 1 tho ish crush and the use of a jig, even machining after fitted.
there is never one way to do this type of job. btw the ofset i sometimes find easier to do in a mill than the 4 jaw and use it to mark center line etc

[latheboy]

If your machines are big enough, I think it's best to machine after welding the part in.

Welding will deform the bores.

I machined my swinger after welding.

[Luppy]

Thanks guys, all good points.

In hindsight i probably could have bored the bearing holes in the spacers after welding them in.
I didnt think of using the mill to bore them.

but all is good, i couldnt find a reamer that would do the job, i did however run a brake cylinder hone through them for a minute or two, the bearings went in very nicely. as it turns out only the top of the bores were ovalised from pressing them in. possibly from starting not straight enough on an ancient sloppy press.

but the swinger is in and sitting nicely. the front and rear axles and swinger pivot look to be very nicely parallel.

I will knock up some form of jig to measure the three critical points over the weekend, i have a couple of 2m spirit levels
an half a dozen engineering squares so i think i should be able to set up a rig to measure any misalignment.
Of course this is all wasted unless the frame is perfectly square and true, and the swinger is also true.

[Luppy]

On another topic,
I was thinking of making up some adjustable dog bones using 12mm ball joints and a piece of rod threaded each end.
Does anyone have any suggestions on whether this is a good/bad idea

i was thinking that i might use some 14mm stainless for the rods.

failing that i have some 5mm steel or 6mm ally plate i can use to make some flat ones.

[fimpBIKES]

nice work with the spacers
im sure the bearing tolerances will take care of the welding distortion
stock bikes arent that straight anyways so im sure yours will turn out fine with all the care you are taking