Power Commander V

[wackyrider]

Looking at getting a PCV for the bike and getting it tuned. WHat's your boys experiences, good / bad?

Is it easy to tune yourself at home or best take it on a dyno?

[Cruisecontrol]

I put a PCIII into my K4 thou and even just installing the correct map for the Yoshi pipe made a big difference in the mid-range. And looking at the figures of the stock and new map, there were significant changes.
I will eventually put it on a dyno to tune it properly, but was happy with the early results.

[wackyrider]

Cheers Cruise, just what I wanted to hear. I was gonna buy the PCIII originally but saw that they released the PCV now for the K4. You can wire in a switch to be able to switch between maps now as well without the need of a laptop

[xa-mont]

it must be the power commander time of year... i'm getting a PCIII USB for the RSV

[K6Thou]

I've got a PCIII USB for my K6 and haven't bothered installing it, don't know if I will....

[Mishdog20]

I put a PcIII USB onto me ZX Jules, it was impressive just how smoother it made it accelerate, that and a TRE made a shit-ton of difference.

[Tim]

going to go the autotune route?

[wackyrider]

going to go the autotune route?

Costs a fair whack extra for the autotune

[MONO]

Costs a fair whack extra for the autotune

Maybe because it actually works .....The download a mystery map doesn't cut it for me.

[MONO]

https://www.facebook.com/WoolichRacing

This is the best IMO

[wackyrider]

I'm thinking of taking it to a shop to put it on the Dyno and get the bike tuned

[TurboKat]

If you're not getting the autotune you can't actually 'tune' the bike/PCV without a dyno, you can only upload different maps - & they vary wildly so without an AFR trace you're just guessing.
If you had an onboard A/F readout you could make adjustments as you go but it'd take ages.
If you want to get it spot on, get your Macedonian arse to a dyno... I use & recommend DYNO DYNAMICS - the official dyno of Vic. ASF.

[wackyrider]

Darren the plan is to take it to a Dyno in fact, and as much as I'd love to take it to Ivan the terrible, might be a slight logistal issue seeing as I moved to Brissy about 7 months ago now :D

There in lies the issue now, don't know where the best place to go to in Brissy is...

[Jed]

Jules. Speedys Motorcycles in Brisbane (Sumner) is the place to go. I know a lot of guys who Drag Race go there. Have heard good things about them.

http://www.speedysmotorcycles.com.au/

Cheers, Jed

[Jed]

I've got a PCIII USB for my K6 and haven't bothered installing it, don't know if I will....

You want to get rid of it?

[M.V.]

It staggars me that Power Commanders etc all do away with the exhaust sensors, rather than using them for on the fly tuning... I know Bazzaz offer a system like the PC Autotune, but it's $$$. If I were going for a PC type device, the Autotune one would be the one to have, also if you change exhaust air filter etc, you don't have to go back to the Dyno to get most out of it.

One a cheaper front, Rapid Bike modules are on sale out of the states at the moment, they don't do the autotune, but they do a/f & timing with switchable maps on the fly.

http://www.rapidbikeusa.com/uncategorized/rapid-bike-suzuki-sale-item/

No affiliation of course, just another option.

[scotty]

a good mate is at dacati brissy, you may have met him in casino, owen the fudge man is the dyno guy

[K6Thou]

Dunno Jed I'm still trying to find time to finish the bike and ride it before I make a decision. The bike was an animal without it so I really need a road test before I make my mind up...

[wackyrider]

Jules. Speedys Motorcycles in Brisbane (Sumner) is the place to go. I know a lot of guys who Drag Race go there. Have heard good things about them.

http://www.speedysmotorcycles.com.au/

Cheers, Jed

Cheers Jed, I'll give them a call once i get the PCV

[latheboy]

owen the fudge man is the dyno guy

Terrible name for a dyno operator..
Have you looked at the ecu editor.. do a search for it here, booster posted it..

Why would you want switchable maps when a good one is all you need......

[latheboy]

Oh and Frenchy, you've lost your free dyno privileges since you moved north.... No longer welcome.. :)

[wackyrider]

Damn....

[Dynomutt]

It staggars me that Power Commanders etc all do away with the exhaust sensors, rather than using them for on the fly tuning... I know Bazzaz offer a system like the PC Autotune, but it's $$$. If I were going for a PC type device, the Autotune one would be the one to have, also if you change exhaust air filter etc, you don't have to go back to the Dyno to get most out of it.

One a cheaper front, Rapid Bike modules are on sale out of the states at the moment, they don't do the autotune, but they do a/f & timing with switchable maps on the fly.

http://www.rapidbikeusa.com/uncategorized/rapid-bike-suzuki-sale-item/

No affiliation of course, just another option.

The standard lambda sensors fitted to 99% of bikes are a narrowband sensor which is no good for anything other than idle really. A dyno lambda will be a wideband, Dynojet uses a Bosch LSU4 wideband sensor which is self heating and registers between 10-1 rich and 18-1 lean whereas a narrowband cannot register the AFR over a wide enough range to be able to construct a map with.
The Dynojet auto tune facility on the PC5 is very similar to the auto tune software used on the Dynojet 250i dynos, and makes it much easier to build a custom map.

[M.V.]

The standard lambda sensors fitted to 99% of bikes are a narrowband sensor which is no good for anything other than idle really. A dyno lambda will be a wideband, Dynojet uses a Bosch LSU4 wideband sensor which is self heating and registers between 10-1 rich and 18-1 lean whereas a narrowband cannot register the AFR over a wide enough range to be able to construct a map with.
The Dynojet auto tune facility on the PC5 is very similar to the auto tune software used on the Dynojet 250i dynos, and makes it much easier to build a custom map.

Cheers mate, good to know.

I knew there would be a simple, easy to follow explanation!

[Dynomutt]

The reason that the stock lambda sensor is removed when using a power commander is because it will constantly try to adjust the fuelling in the just off idle range which can affect the low speed running of the bike. I've had issues with an MT01 that was awkward right off idle caused by the OEM sensor. There will usually be a plug in sensor removal available which extinguishes the FI fault code on the dash when the sensor is removed. A true closed loop system for bikes requires a much more capable ECU than those currently fitted to production machines, the power commander 5 is the best alternative as it allows you to use the auto tune facility to map to a target AFR, in a very similar manner to the tuning link software on the Dynojet 250i dynos.

Personally I've shit canned the FI system on my 06' Z1000 motor, and fitted some Mikuni TMR40 roller flatslides instead with a Dyna2000 ignition system. Much better. If you look at the guys racing the ProStock Busas they have ditched the FI system and run 48mm downdraught Lectron carbs, which makes much better power on a naturally aspirated motor.

FI is emissions led rather than performance led, Yoshimura have developed a fuelling system for the TMR series and FCR series of performance carbs, which uses a hollow needle with loads of tiny jet holes drilled in the rear side of it, the needle seals in the needle jet, and allows fuel to pass up the inside of the needle and out of the jet holes exposed as the slide opens.
This gives full height atomisation of the fuel and a much finer mist than FI can produce, and also gets rid of needle bleed when the throttle is closed momentarily when going into a corner for example and the engine vacuum increases, this can allow fuel to bleed around the outside of a taopered needle and cause a slight rich stumble when getting back on the throttle. The Yoshimura MJN ( Multi Jet Needle) does away with this.
The only downside it the cost, my TMR40 cost around £1500, the MJN kit for them is another £1000.

[Redmohawk]

Shit I can't see why F1 haven't gone back to the good old days and strapped a few holley on , Fuel injection is obviously crap. There you go fellas.

[Tony Nitrous]

Got a PC3 on my 14, it was set up on a dyno for the last owner
(Full yoshi system / PAIR removed etc) ridden a few 14's and I'm quite
pleased with mine. Works well.

ECU flashing is great for the right bike, Busa and B-Kings work well,
GSX14's have very limited options. ECU is low tech in comparison and
most folk won't put the R&D in that's needed. Flashing suits some models but not all.

..... another place to try for flashing ECU's is Petes Pitstop up near Gympie.

Not a fan of downloaded maps. Might be close enough to get you out of trouble
but no two bikes are ever the same. A good dyno guy will beat a download 99% of the time.

[Redmohawk]

Now that sounds more like it.

[ozzy1100]

so where do that leave me then I intend on useing carbs and a data logger with egt and wide band lol

[Tony Nitrous]

http://www.petespitstop.com.au/

[Hagarr]

Personally I've shit canned the FI system on my 06' Z1000 motor, and fitted some Mikuni TMR40 roller flatslides instead with a Dyna2000 ignition system. Much better. If you look at the guys racing the ProStock Busas they have ditched the FI system and run 48mm downdraught Lectron carbs, which makes much better power on a naturally aspirated motor.

All good if you are dragging with W.O.T really hard to tune Lectrons for smooth street performance and power and numerous throttle and gear positions!

[Dynomutt]

All good if you are dragging with W.O.T really hard to tune Lectrons for smooth street performance and power and numerous throttle and gear positions!

I agree, Lectrons make fantastic power, but not for street use, the best carbs for use on a Streetbike are the Mikuni TMR series of roller bearing flatslides, ideally with the Yoshimura MJN kit installed, although the performance even without the MJN kit is great, and when correctly set up the response is silky smooth. Fuel economy on mine 953cc motor with 40mm TMR is still around 34 mpg even when the thing is being ragged hard, and when I get all boring and stick to the speed limits it is closer to 50mpg.