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View Full Version : Advantages / Disadvantages of keyless ignition



wackyrider
01-03-2013, 10:39 AM
I know thi stopic has been brought up a few times, but I'm looking to know your ideas on the Advantages / Disadvantages of keyless ignition. I've lopped off the ignition mount on my triple and thinking of either relocating the ignition or else I will go keyless.

Opinions people

OLD SKOOL BANDIT
01-03-2013, 10:45 AM
Nothing technical to offer Jules but my thoughts.

Advantages: Fucken cool, no keys rattling and scratching paint, no keys to lose.

Disadvantages: Getting paranoid every time the old girl is not parked safely in the shed.

Pretty sure Geoff or Rich have more to offer tech wise.

(Your build is look pretty cool too).

BANDITROD
01-03-2013, 10:50 AM
do you remember what happened to me on the mt gambier trip jules id class that as a disadvantage

wackyrider
01-03-2013, 10:51 AM
do you remember what happened to me on the mt gambier trip jules id class that as a disadvantage

Yeah, it got fixed with Kwaka parts if I recall :D

BANDITROD
01-03-2013, 10:53 AM
it was a narva switch .....lol

kiwi kdx
01-03-2013, 10:57 AM
haha after we spoke of this last night, it got me thinking....

as i said i'm doing the same for a real clean front end look, i came up with the idea of a proximity switch idea,
key fob stays in your jacket, jacket is close to bike, it will start.....

its done in plenty of cars now days, why not?

i fuken hate electrical shit, this is what im thinking, but it says nothing about the activator key or fob....

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DC-10-30V-200mA-8mm-Noncontact-Inductive-Proximity-Approach-Switch-PNP-NO-/380525857378?pt=AU_B_I_Electrical_Test_Equipment&hash=item58991bca62

wackyrider
01-03-2013, 11:24 AM
I've just started researching this and you can impliment some additional securities. Some people have wired it in through the clutch switch and kill switch. Unless both are activated, the bike will not power on. I would still retain the starter button to actually start the bike though.

kiwi kdx
01-03-2013, 11:29 AM
or to mate it easy on us...

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-STEELMATE-Motorcycle-Bike-Alarm-Remote-Engine-Start-/110767557827?pt=AU_Motorcycle_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19ca42ccc3

wackyrider
01-03-2013, 11:30 AM
http://motogadget.com/en/electrics/rfid-ignition-lock-m-lock/m-lock-rfid-zundschloss.html
Motogadget seem to make one as well.

kiwi kdx
01-03-2013, 11:33 AM
http://motogadget.com/en/electrics/r...ndschloss.html (http://motogadget.com/en/electrics/rfid-ignition-lock-m-lock/m-lock-rfid-zundschloss.html)
Motogadget seem to make one as well.

only problem i can see with that is the switching distance of 40-50mm i want one with a distance of about 1-2mtr's

hooligan
01-03-2013, 11:34 AM
I had one on the 711, after a while i also put a second kill switch on it to disable the power to the remote so it wouldn't drain the battery.
A couple things that were annoying.
Had to carry remote, fuel tank key and seat latch key. Keyless my arse.
Had to wear the remote on a lanyard around my neck, if it was in a pocket with other stuff, it occasionally would switch the ignition off.
Second kill switch above fixed the flat batteries id get if it wasn't ridden every day.
Although it was pretty coll turning the bike on from a distance:).
I've got the old one from my 711 if you want to have a play?

hooligan
01-03-2013, 11:41 AM
I like the motogadget rfid one. swipe your keys over your bike and away you go, and no way to accidentally turn it off like you can with a button remote.

Deano
01-03-2013, 11:46 AM
Same on the second switch thing. Flat batteries were thin real quick

stiffsimon
01-03-2013, 12:08 PM
I'm glad you brought this up Jules because I intend to fit remote start on my GSX. For me I don't really see any disadvantages at all. Having said that though the reason I don't see any disadvantages is because my intention is to buy a fit for purpose product.
My chosen option will be this one

http://www.digitalguarddawg.com/MOTORCYCLE-KEYLESS-IGNITION-PG1.htm

My thinking is that a product like this has been designed and tested and that it will actually work. I suspect that the problems that some people have had in the past is that they've used cheap Chinese systems or designed and built their own systems. Now there's absolutely nothing wrong with that but I do think it increases the chances of things going tits up at the worst possible moment.

fimpBIKES
01-03-2013, 12:22 PM
im not a fan of the remote style
but had the mlock rfid on the tlr for ages

great for antitheft, had it tucked away out of view an then an on/off rocker elsewhere
big fan, plus u can get a little chip and glue it into a keychain or whateva (always wanted it implanted in my hand so i could turn on ignition with "the force")

Redmohawk
01-03-2013, 01:19 PM
I like a rare earth magnet , with a reed switch on the bike. Just put the magnet over the switch and ignition on. Put the magent somewhere else bike off. No mark where to place magnet , so only you know where to put it. Used it as a ignition killer on a few cars.

wackyrider
01-03-2013, 01:36 PM
This is a good write-up from another forum

http://www.triumphrat.net/speed-triple-forum/162499-rfid-keyless-ignition.html

i wouldn't want remote start (for now at least) just to eliminate the key. But yeah, you have to make sure to keep your fuel tank key on you...

wackyrider
01-03-2013, 01:41 PM
So did you eliminate the key on the TLR Fimp? What else did you need besides the Mlock kit?

fimpBIKES
01-03-2013, 01:41 PM
just have race style filler, never had trouble with that setup

Chase
01-03-2013, 02:03 PM
The more little gadgets - the more sh!t that will go wrong..

Tim
01-03-2013, 02:04 PM
only problem i can see with that is the switching distance of 40-50mm i want one with a distance of about 1-2mtr's

This isnt a problem if you link the rfid unit to a solid state relay...

it will turn it from a momentary switch to on/off.

swipe the tag= turn on, swipe again and it turns off..

oldskool
01-03-2013, 03:03 PM
There ace when someone puts your bike in gear for you and you hit the start button.

wackyrider
01-03-2013, 03:10 PM
That's why I don't want a remote starter

stiffsimon
01-03-2013, 03:15 PM
side stand cut out switch

Yella
01-03-2013, 05:01 PM
I had a remote start kit from Ben, keyless fuel cap and seat release so true keyless bike but still had a button to carry around. Was wired up so it had to be out of gear before it would start, so never worried about it pushing itself over. As said it was also a good idea to keep the button away from stuff because it would occasional turn everything off, like say when landing a wheelie and you fat gut pushes it against the tank. It was also a pain to start and go in a hurry because you had to put it away. It failed outside Armidale and a AFR run it pays to know how to bypass it. I now have a push button with tacho-metric relay fitted. Push and hold the button ignition is on then push the start button and it runs. Turn the kill off to stop it and if the tacho-metric relay does not see engine RPM for 3 sec it turns the igniton off. If I want added security I could add an additonal switch or safety but Im not to fussed.
So far very happy with the new set up and true keyless don't need to carry anything at all

whale
01-03-2013, 05:10 PM
My Harris is keyless. Has a simple toggle in place of the ignition barrel but also has another hidden toggle up under the tank, it wont start unless both are switched to on

Large
02-03-2013, 06:26 AM
http://motogadget.com/en/electrics/rfid-ignition-lock-m-lock/m-lock-rfid-zundschloss.html
Motogadget seem to make one as well.

I got this one.

Seems to work ok.

Tony Nitrous
02-03-2013, 10:15 AM
With wireless remotes, can't someone with a scanner/grabber
just copy your signal if they are nearby? Same as they do
with many car remotes ?

Can't see starting in gear would ever be an issue if it was
wired with relay through the neutral light ?

I know a few cars/bikes in the UK with keyless ignitions
and the starter was wired through a relay that was triggered
by something random. IE, it wouldn't spin over unless main
beam was on, or the back/front brake light was on, with cars
we used the radio, interior light, even the ciggy lighter.

kiwi kdx
02-03-2013, 11:37 AM
found this one Jules, looks pretty good and has a smart key so u could keep it in your wallet!

http://www.innovativeignitionsystems.com/uni-motorcycle-rfid#!__uni-motorcycle-rfid

Tim
02-03-2013, 06:17 PM
link wont open for me?


cheapest way(not the best)

one of these ( or even something a little more quality if you want)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RFID-you-get-4-units-Reader-transponder-key-fob-security-/250996041591?pt=US_Car_Keys_Transponders&hash=item3a7087a777
&
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DEI-611T-12-VOLT-ACTIVE-LATCHING-SWITCH-RELAY-TIMER-/140333447156?pt=US_Relays_Sensors&hash=item20ac8677f4

some silicon water proofing, a bit creative clean wiring and done..

Could use the clutch switch/sidestand/brakeswitch or even just a momentary switch to supply power to the rfid unit so battery drain isnt an issue too.

rod185651
03-03-2013, 05:18 AM
What else did you need besides the Mlock kit?

A mate to help push start the TLR when it wouldn't start. Eh Fimp

fimpBIKES
04-03-2013, 11:05 AM
lol, thanks rod

although i can honestly say that NONE of the starting issues i ever had with the TLR were to do with the m-lock
FWIW

JackTar
05-03-2013, 09:06 AM
I've got one fitted to the Z1 that Ben installed, won't start the bike if it is in gear but does work with the side stand down (pretty pointless needing the stand up as you are on the bike and may as well use a key) there is a kill switch under the seat section of the frame which is hard to see but easy to find if you know where it is. The kill switch stops the battery draining and I've left the switch off for a full working day and it hasn't drained the bike enough to not start.

As for fuel cap I just have a keyless one, never had a problem with people taking it off for whatever reason.

As someone else said Chris I think you do have to be more conscious of where you put it, corners become difficult without that bit in. The middle of the bike working.