TIG welding the risers to the triple clamp

[chubs]

Hi all,

I just got a triple clamp with some risers bolted to them. It looks like the bolt holes for the bolts that hold the instrument cluster have been drilled out to make way for the bolts that hold the risers on.

I'm considering getting a shop to TIG weld the risers to the triple clamp. I plan to get the bolts that are currently holding it on from beneath the clamp, and use them to hold the instrument cluster on.

Is this a good idea or a bad one?

[fimpBIKES]

pics?

[chubs]

I just went to the local welder - he says no way, because the risers are soft aluminium and the clamp is hi-tensile magnesium/aluminium alloy, which aren't compatible. Bugger - back to the drawing board.
Anyone else think of a good way to mount the instrument cluster, with the holes being already used by the riser bolts?

And here are your pics:

Top right on the box is the triple clamp and risers.
http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/4711/20060718bikepics011smalllq0.jpg

And here you can see the instrument cluster.
http://img53.imageshack.us/img53/7482/20060718bikepics012smallzz3.jpg

[Matt]

Can you mount the instrument cluster underneath the triple clamp and use the same bolts to hold both in?

[Matt]

If it sits too low doing this just make new brackets or extend the original brackets with a bigger offset in them

[sluglie]

yeah, thats what i was thinkin, use a longer bolt on the front of the risers so it sticks 10-15mm out the bottom of the yoke, put instrument cluster over bolts then tighten up with washer and nyloc nut, will keep the instruments safe and lock the risers to the yolk

[chubs]

"Can you mount the instrument cluster underneath the triple clamp and use the same bolts to hold both in?"

Yeah, i thought of that. The only catch is, if you look in the bottom picture, there are rubber grommets where the bolts hold the instrument cluster, so that it has a bit of flexibility and 'bounce' in it.
So i can't just put the bolt through the rubber as well as into the risers, because the bolts have to be really tight for the risers sake.

[chubs]

quote:Originally posted by sluglie

yeah, thats what i was thinkin, use a longer bolt on the front of the risers so it sticks 10-15mm out the bottom of the yoke, put instrument cluster over bolts then tighten up with washer and nyloc nut, will keep the instruments safe and lock the risers to the yolk


It doesn't work like that. There are 4 bolts per riser - 2 coming from the top, clamping down on the bars. And 2 that you can't see, coming up from underneath the triple clamp screwing into the bottom of the riser.

Otherwise, it'd be a great idea! Actually, that still might work, if i could get a bolt long and strong enough...

[Gix11]

That's what I would have said too. Or if they are the ones that mount from underneath anyway, slot the clock bracket in before they take up the riser thread - just need longer bolts.

[Deano]

i cant remember what the underneath of the clamp looked like but can you drill and tapp 4 new holes for the inst mounts slightly forward of the originals?

from memory the risers are held on with m8 bolts.

What about 2 plates, placed between the risers and riser plate, extending forward enough to mount the dash to. About 5-8mm thick, shape'em to match the risers down the sides and back and they'll look like they're meant to be there.

[fimpBIKES]

for the instruments if u kept it nice and close chalkeys idea with
3mm stainless brackets would be easy

check the bolts though, chances are they will be a fine pitch
make sure u specify when ordering new ones ;)

[chubs]

To keep it simple, i've decided to rip off all the rubber bits, buy 2 longer bolts, and bolt it underneath the riser. Tighten it nice and tight, with some loctite, it should be fine.
So from top down, it'll be:

Riser
Triple clamp
Bracket for instrument cluster
Bolt going up through it all

Here's a photo of it all:
http://img86.imageshack.us/img86/7313/20060720bikepics004smallpb9.jpg

If you want to retain the rubber mounting, get nice long bolts, bolt the risers down then bolt the dash unit underneath the nuts for the risers.

Vibration can kill electronics pretty quickly.

[chubs]

I didn't think of that - you reckon the vibrations will kill the instruments?

[Gix11]

Yea mate. Rubber mount as much as you can. These old units are famous for the needles breaking off due to vibration anyway! Yours will be gone in seconds with no rubber mounting.

[chubs]

Okay then, back to the drawing board :(

Any good ideas to mount it now?

Have you got the collets for the rubber mounts (metal tubes that it into the rubbers, and the bolt goes through them)? If so you can just mount up as mentioned above, if not head down to a wrecker for some the size you want.

[Gix11]

Looking at the last photo, I'd be mounting the back (smaller holes) straight in with a little rubber gromet and maybe some loctite and then the front, put some beefer rubber mounts in and some decent width washers (that won't bend) on the outside to pinch everything up. The clocks themselves have an amount of rubber mounting anyway so it will take the shock, plus the most important part is getting the riser tight. Anyway, my clocks are only mounted in 2 points anyway, not four - ran out of holes - and I've been running it like that for 2 years without any problems.

[chubs]

Chalky - Collets! Thats a brilliant idea! I'll see if i can buy some collets somewhere.
Gix - not sure i understand what you're describing.

[Gsxar]

I didnt think of the wreckers for the metal tubes, I went to the steel place brought a piece and chopped it up.
Clark rubber is excellent for getting rubber bits and peices to mount parts :D

[Captaintoc]

Why dont you get a long threaded bolt cut the head off and screw this into the risers then put a nut on the thread to tighten the risers and with the left over thread put your clocks on and put a second nut on.

Sorry if that sound bloody confusing I at work and don't time to explain it fully post back if you want a better explaination.

Have Fun
Andrew

That's what I was trying to say Captain, only not quite as easily understood as what you've written :D

[fimpBIKES]

or u could use engineering studs, but need to know the pitch of the bolts
fine pitched hi-tensile bolts can be expensive (like $5 a bolt...)

fuck the tig,just solder it on.

[chubs]

captaintoc, that doesn't sound confusing at all. Actually, after talking with the guy who hooked me up with the risers, thats pretty close to what we decided to do. So i think thats what'll happen.

[chubs]

All done:
http://img115.imageshack.us/img115/368/20060724bikepics002am8.jpg
http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/8210/20060724bikepics009vl2.jpg