ZX6 RAM air mod

[Tom Calleja]

After getting all comfortable with my new ZX6 I think it's about time to get to work. However, the first thing i've found that i'll have to do when stripping the fairings and such things like that, i believe i'll have to do the RAM air mod like on the ZX9's?
I've heard a few different things from different sources with the drilling underside of the airbox and re-hosing
But i've also heard from just finding 2 conish sort of things that don't look ugly to put on similar to where the RAM air used to be with the fairings on and not having to do the RAM air mod?
Does doing the mod itself actually increase performance? or does it just stop it from spitting when you take off the fairings? And would it not spot if i just substitute what's already there so it still gets the same amount of pressure in the RAM air?

And sorry for the advice questions, but next pay i'll be paying my dues and ordering a shirt :P

[BANDITROD]

easy to mod the airbox mate i have done it to both the kwaks i had zx9 and zx6 and im not sure about performance but with out it they both ran like shit

[Redmohawk]

Defeating the ram air setup will reduce power , the bodywork makes a high pressure area near the intake ducts. If you fit a scoop of some sort the effect can be replicated without the bodywork but it wont be quite as high a pressure (its not a huge difference at lower than 160 kph but will effect tuning even at highways speeds and part throttle openings.

If your not concerned with a slight reduction in top end (and stripping the plastics off is going to make more of a difference than the rammed air anyhow) just mod the air balance tubes to the air box ala ZX9 setup. If you want to experament and do something a little different to others try the scoop idea. Keep in mind the rammed air setup on the ZX6 could be as good or close to the original setup with the right shaped scoops and you dont have to use the original route without the bodywork to get in your way.

[Tom Calleja]

Ahhh very interesting, i don't think i'd be happy with losing with the top end though, looks like i'm doing the air box mod lol

[BANDITROD]

having ridden a zx9 with the airbox mod im telling you that if you can notice the diff without a dyno you would be unhuman as it still went like fuck the zx6 was the same i dont think it makes that much difference myself

[Tom Calleja]

Ah well said man,
If i could just pick your brain, what size hosing did you need to pick up? was it the same size as the zx9?

[Redmohawk]

having ridden a zx9 with the airbox mod im telling you that if you can notice the diff without a dyno you would be unhuman as it still went like fuck the zx6 was the same i dont think it makes that much difference myself

As I said a "slight difference" Might knock 15 to 20 kmh off the top end. Removing the plastics and the extra drag created at high speed will make far more difference.

[BANDITROD]

yeah thats about right red and yes Tom same size as zx9 on both bikes

[Tom Calleja]

Weeew, thanks guys, i'll get on to it

[BANDITROD]

i actually used one of the little plastic vents from the ram air and screwed it to the bottom of the airbox keep in mind that you need the hose to go to the top side of the airbox so you will have to put a hole through the filter its not to hard to do

[Hillsy]

You can run the balance pipe to the crankcase vent intake port on the airbox, then run the crankcase vent pipe to the Kleen air intakes (you'll need a "T" piece to connect the 2 Kleen pipes). That way you can do away with a few pounds of piping and what-not for the Kleen system and keep the crankcase in a vacuum which makes the bike rev up a bit quicker and can apparently add some HP.

[Dynomutt]

All you are doing is seeking to equalise the pressure in the float chambers with the pressure in the airbox, otherwise as road speed increases the pressure in the airbox becomes higher than that in the float chambers, when the air flow through the venturi causes a pressure drop, the pressure in the float chamber is still not high enough to force fuel through into the venturi. By equalising the pressure, by running the float chamber vents into the airbox the pressure is equalised between the float chambers and airbox, so the pressure differential between the float chamber and venturi is enough to prevent fuel starvation at road speeds above 45mph or so.
The problem doesn't manifest on the dyno, only on the road, so may not be picked up when the bbike is set up initially after removing the fairings.
I've done quite a few ZX6R and ZX9R, the problem also affects some of the ZZR1100, and is cured in the same manner.
I simply run two tubes straight off the float chamber vent Tee pieces, and into the airbox before slash cutting the end of the tubes and facing them forwards. This has worked every time.

[Tom Calleja]

Alrighty, thanks guys

dyno, is this the method you're talking about?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KtISwbsv-yc

[Hillsy]

That'll do it - except that Seppo idiot is delusional if he thinks he's getting 15 more HP on his zee-ex-nighn.

[Tom Calleja]

ahaha, yeah i thought for something like that to make it feel like you're getting an extra 15 hp, you must be smoking something much stronger than crack

[Dynomutt]

I do it differently, I remove all the existing tubing from the two float chamber Tee pieces, then attatch a short length of hose about 3 inches long to each Tee piece, then drill two holes directly above them in the underside of the airbox, and run the two tubes into the airbox. I then face them forwards and slash cut the ends at 45 degrees and face the open end towards the front of the bike. job done neat and simple solution.