Removing Kat/GSX anti dive - Tony?

[TurboKat]

I'm fucked if I can find it but somebody mentioned recently that they knew of a special trick you do when removing the anti dive mechanism from the early GSX style forks.
If I remember correctly it was Tony Nitrous.... or possibly Des..... or.... err.. :(
Anyone... ?

[sharky]

Yeah , Its real tricky.............







You put later ones on. :D

[latheboy]

Use an OXY that'll fix it up real good

[Tony Nitrous]

Never did the brake pressure one's on my Kat, They always worked fine.
The test on the Kat is put up side stand, hold the bike with the rear brake,
and Push-down, pull-up, push-down, pull up on the bars,
after a few "up's and downs" grab the front brake as you go down.
front end should firm up and not dive anywhere near as far.

http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/1899/ajfightercirclerk4.jpg

The electric version on my GSXR11 i had some help with.
What I can remember is......
* Bin everything,
* Make up 2 small alloy plates to blank off the holes,
(This then lock's up the front end solid)
* You then strip the forks a drill a hole in each damper rod.
(There is an exact dimension, hole size and distance from the end,
but im F*cked if I can find it after all these years!)
* The forks are then "fine tuned" by changing the weight/grade of oil.

Sorry I cant be of more help.

The spec's and dimensions on mine were supplied by Ron Williams
at Maxton in the UK as he didn't want to take on any more work at the time.
He's a bit of a suspension guru and has previously designed race frames etc.

http://www.maxtonsuspension.co.uk/

[Benz]

If they are the same pieces of crap that hung off GPz's forks,[same vintage more or less]make up some blank off plates, and carve a channel in the rear of the plates,between the holes in the forks. This allows the shock oil to travel normally, so you don't have to pull the forks apart to make them work.
I personally threw the whole front end for a set of usd's, and the bike is truly ten times better off for it.....
For what it's worth, if you could find a way to use them manually, [instead of when braking only], the anti-dives should operate like a damping adjuster. If they operate the same as a GPz's, replacing the piston at the top with some form of screw adjuster will tune the amount of fluid passing, hey presto, adjustable damping on a non adjustable fork....
It's only a theory, haven't done it myself........

[TurboKat]

Thanx a lot Chaps, I'll just make up a blanking plate & see what it does to the action & fiddle from there. I'll also have a look on O.S.S. I seem to remember seeing something there a while back.
The story is, I'm prepping the front end for my P5 bike & I thought I was going to hafta source some type of late model RWU forks that fit within the class rules, eg.
41mm max. dia.
Non cartridge style,
No dual horizontal pinchbolts allowed, single horizontal or any No of vertical allowed.
Bracing is free.
Must replicate the type used in the period.
(some guys use late cartridge forks & weld 1 of the pinch bolts up)
But after seeing Robbie Phillis' GSX 11 at the Southern Classic, he's running the stock forks with stiff springs, RaceTech cartridge emulators & a fork brace... & if it's good enough for him...
So I've decided to run the standard forks, piss the antidive off & duplicate Robbie's setup. I'm trawling around to try to find some tips for setup of this type of thing.
Any oldskool suspension Gurus in the house?