shed ideas?

[xa-mont]

hey kids. gotta plan out my new shed that shouldn't be too far away now.

Probably going to go with a 7x9 with a big double size door on the 7 end and a entry door on the 9 side.

Anyone recommend or not any particular brand of shed?
Any tips on the concreting (ill be getting dad, an ex bricky to help but tips are still good)
What should i do with lighting? i want lots, but are fluro's still the best value/quality option or is there something else out there now? how many should i be rocking in there to ensure i get sunburn every time i go in there at night?
Where should i get lights from?

Any other ideas or tips would be awesome.

Cheers,
Trav

[StuNVA]

Lots of power points

[timbo]

I used Safty Steel sheds and was very happy with them, they even changed the ridge line on the carport to sue the off set shed

[RevHead]

also build a garden shed for all the mowers wiper snipers and shit because they take up heaps of room,

[EVLZX]

I'm just renting at the moment but my sheds got double rollers and a entrance door which goes into my "office" then behind the office area there is a workshop area complete with toilet and large sink, 4 double fluros light up the main shed area, it all works out pretty good but I need some downlights around the work area just for that bit extra I reckon.
Power points are every 2 or 3 metres along the back of the shed but none at the front of the shed, which would be really convenient, workshop area has a quad power point in one position but I wouldn't mind if there were some at the other end of the work bench.
There's some pretty big shelves along one wall and they're quite handy.
Oh and a wood fire would be just great.
Then I've got the double garage on the house for my use as well..
Mind you I don't get much say in the house.

[EVLZX]

If it was up to me I'd double the fluro count in my place

[Redmohawk]

Big really fucking big, fill your back yard big.

[xa-mont]

Thanks for the tips guys. i'm thinking i'll put in like 9 fluro's and some some extra's for particular areas like work benches.


Big really fucking big, fill your back yard big.

If it were just up to me i would. but i have the keep the sexy one in the house happy as well. and i think 7x9 is a pretty decent size in town.

[Redmohawk]

If your planing on doing any painting in there a drain in the floor in the centre for wash down is the go. (also good to get rid of dust after sanding prep) and good "Daylight colour" globes to see what colour the paint really is in the shed.

[xa-mont]

Good idea red. Well make the concreting a little more involved but would be worth it.even just for cleaning cars/bikes in the shed.

[Mishdog20]

Hey Trav, ive just gone through all the different shed company's only last month on searching for my shed. I wound up with a mob from Brisbane. I compared them with Safety Steel in Vic, and they couldnt come close price wise, including freight. I ended up with a 9x6x2.7 shed, fully colorbond, 2x roller doors and a P.A. door for $5500 delivered. Safety steel were the same price but were Zinc and had Sliding Doors. There price also didnt include delivery. The only difference structure wise were Safety Steel had Portal footings which had to be set prior to shed erection / slab laying, compared to the other mob which relied on tru-bolt tie-downs. I chose the Brisbane mob over Safety Steel, despite the different tie-down methods as from experience, concrete is a shitload easier to lay before you build the shed / set-up footings. The Safety Steel Footing system probably is better, but they still have to comply to all current A/S standards and Tolerances. It will be so much easier to drive the concrete truck around ya slab with a chute than barrowing, bull-floating / helicopter finishing it etc without having pesky footings poking out of ya slab.

No offence Red but the PAIN IN THE ASS factor of setting up a graded floor in ya shed IMHO is not worth it. You cannot use a helicopter for the final finish, screeding it is a right prick, and really wouldnt ya want a flat surface if you plan on making anything at home, now your a metal fabricator?? We have done graded drains at work with all 4 of us who have done a fair amount of concreting, and trust me mate they are a prick to get right.

I got a price off an apprentice sparkie for the lights and shit in my shed, its for 6x double fluro's, 5x double power points, switchbox, sensor light, and the underground all came to about a grand. 6x double fluro's will be oodles of light mate, they are pretty bright. Just get a sparkie to buy it all, they will get it a shitload cheaper than you can buy it mate. If you need a hand with organising ya Permits, and ya will need 1, or if ya have any questions give us a call or msg mate.

[ALBI]

knock the house down and fill propety with shed

[Large]

move into factory.

[Nudie]

move into factory.

^^^^^^^^ I was waiting for that^^^^^^^

[RevHead]

lol,

[Swordsy]

I have 2 2x36w fluros in my 6x10 shed,, could do with 2 more. Any more than that would be too much.

[xa-mont]

thanks a lot for all the info guys.

You're probably right Mish. the effort involved in sloping the slab to a drain would probably outweigh the advantage i personally would take from it. What mob did you end up going through?

I got 2 quotes today from the local joints. 6800 and 6700 delivered. Thats for a 7 x 9 x 2.4 with a 5m roller on the gable end and a pa door and window on one side with colorbond walls and a zink roof.

Wiring's not an issue. One of my best mates is a sparky and i have done some electrical work in the past so i'll just wire all the lighting and GPO's up and get him to do the switchboard and sign it off.

My old man's shed (6x9) has 4 double fluro's and it's pretty good, but i want a little more, so i'll go 6 doubles and maybe some extra over the main work bench, or maybe a flexy type light for the work bench. I'm gonna go silly with the power points as well cause i hate extension leads and swapping power leads every time i swap tools.

Is there any reason you went with 2.7 over the regular 2.4 Glenn?

And on the factory front, i'm pretty sure my missus wouldn't have any part of that. and i like sex WAY too much.

[Mishdog20]

I went the 2700 high Trav because the roller door opening is really only going to be 2400 high. The roll is generally 300mm in dia, so a 2400 high shed has only got an opening of 2100. Pretty low for getting any trailers / 4wd's into it. The company was called Cheap Sheds, but they aren't the manufacturer. Spanbilt is the manufacturer. I'm pretty certain they won't sell direct to the public, so therefore ya have to go through the othert mob.

That sounds like a better amount of fluro's mate, i like the idea of heaps of power points, and they are cheap as chips to throw in anyway. Another couple of things i learnt to ask about was whether or not the screws are colored and will they supply the Engineers computations required for council.

[Tony Nitrous]

6 x 9.
2.7m high, taller door, better to hang stuff up, cooler in heat.
Flat slab poured a week before.

Imported 2 truck loads of crusher dust to make the slad "raised".
However bad the storms are the water will run around it.
Poured the slab with "thickening beams" around it so it sits over
the imported fill and down the side like a wall.

We needed a garden shed, so I used a (removeable) interior wall
1.5m in. Gives me a 6 x 7.5 workshop and Mrs and kids a long
1.5m x 6 section for pushbikes, mower, garden tools.

Mine's a Triton put on a prepoured slab with anchor bolts,
if it even blows away the house will have gone long a go.

http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/439/dashed.jpg

[Mishdog20]

[QUOTE=Tony Nitrous;365577]6 x 9.
2.7m high, taller door, better to hang stuff up, cooler in heat.
Flat slab poured a week before.

Imported 2 truck loads of crusher dust to make the slad "raised".
However bad the storms are the water will run around it.
Poured the slab with "thickening beams" around it so it sits over
the imported fill and down the side like a wall.

We needed a garden shed, so I used a (removeable) interior wall
1.5m in. Gives me a 6 x 7.5 workshop and Mrs and kids a long
1.5m x 6 section for pushbikes, mower, garden tools.

Mine's a Triton put on a prepoured slab with anchor bolts,
if it even blows away the house will have gone long a go.

Yeh thats the same as mine Tony. A couple of truckloads of fill is WELL worth it IMHO. Its damn cheap insurance if in flood prone area. Anyway if the bloody thing blows away, thats what Insurance is for. Its rare you hear of new buildings blowing away in non cyclonic areas.

[xa-mont]

no Flood's here (in this street anyway) so i'll just do the slab on the ground.

[xa-mont]

and i'm thinking i might go 2.7.

I've put out a heap of quote requests to all the online mobs i could find. so hopefully i should have a heap of replies soon.

[Mishdog20]

no Flood's here (in this street anyway) so i'll just do the slab on the ground.

You will still require some rock mate, even if its only 20mm thick. Crushed rock is used under slabs to provide a flat, even and Level surface to lay your slab on. Concrete is supposed to be a uniform thickness, because if your slab varies in thickness ( say 90mm to 130mm ) this WILL be the point in which your slab will crack. The other reason is that concrete is roughly $190 bucks per meter, where as rock is $40ish. Much cheaper to level your site up with rock than concrete.

In all honesty mate, if I were you, I would get a concretor in to pour the slab. Trust me, its not as easy as it looks and there is a reason why its a 3 year apprenticeship to become a concretor. A slab that size would require at least 4 blokes to do it properly. You would need a whacker packer, boxing, pegs / stays, screeds, bullfloat and pole, hand trowels and a helicopter if you want a decent slab finish. You can save some money by preparing the site yourself, and getting all the mesh and stuff required, and just ask a local concretor if they would lay it for cash. No risk for them if you pay for all the materials. Oh and the MOST IMPORTANT PART that you should not skimp on is black plastic under the slab. Make sure you plastic under your slab, and tape all the joins and tears in it. If ya don't, the damp that will come through your slab will be enough to rot the bottoms of cardboard boxes.

[xa-mont]

i'll put some feelers out on a price for getting concreting done. i know a couple of concreters here (not great mates with them, but know them fairly well) so i'll hit em up.

Though my old man did his own shed slab about 8 years ago and it is fine. it isn't a perfect finish, but it's pretty good (i would be happy with it) He was a bricky for about 20 years so he has a bit of experience in the building trades... by no means a concreter though :P

And yeah i heard the black plastic thing is vital. so i'll be sure to do that what ever way i go.

[Redmohawk]

I've done 5 shed floors over the years biggest was 4 by 12m Mish is dead on with the work/fill/plastic etc involved (I used friends and or family) At least 4 good workers preferably that all know what there up to 100%. The 4 by 12 was a big job and a mate was the lead concreater , Peter he did a centre drained bay mostly by eye with a vibrating screeder (great skill).

If you havent done it yourself before (or at least helped on a few) I'd pay for someone do do the hard yards and just do the setup/prep.

[Mishdog20]

Yeah it all depends how fussy you are with the finish i suppose. I want a real shiny finish when i do my slab, just for ease of cleaning. The only way to get that is to chopper the hell out of it, right up until its nearly gone off. If your happy with an easier steel float finish, then you and a couple of mates could get away with it.

[ozzy1100]

be carefull with the burnt finish(chopper) i had mine done with the wet trowl finish as apossed to broom finish
mine has to pack over it and i have found it a bit slippery when wet or dusty not a prob type bad but made me wish
i didnt opt out of a light dusting of grit

[Mishdog20]

The 2 pack would probably be the cause of the slipperiness on your floor ozzy, wouldn' it, and not so much the finish from the chopper. Personally i've never been a huge fan of painting concrete, the only ones i have seen have generally peeled in high traffic areas, and are normally slippery, but i reckon it was the cheap shit painted on.

[ozzy1100]

If u let the slab cure and don't use it until u paint and prep
well u don't have the props lots do. Two pack really hangs on
mine has been down over a yr np at all, if u use non 2 pack a few
coats of jet coat paver paint seems to work ok but prop need touch
up time to time.
Yr prop is the two pack y it's a bit slick but have found some burnt finish
can be as bad talk to the contractor.
Btw three things I know about concrete 1 it will go hard 2 it will crack
and 3 it's a job that u pay the money to have some other poor fucker do

[Tony Nitrous]

Done a few but didnt do mine, I was away in Sydney.
I paid extra so the guys could have a pump truck.
Even if they got the truck close its still a c#nt of a job pouring
slabs from a truck. Pump truck and a wet mix and its waaaay
easier and the guys can do a much better job.

My site will NEVER flood, unless the rest of Brissy is already under.
I just wanted it sat out of the ground for when we have tropical
full on down pours coming down the hill, and crusher dust is much
better to make a compact base and get all the levels right. Seen
slabs poured on dirt and subgrade but not something i'd do.

Have a think if you want to put any services it the slab.
Conduit for power ? Water ? a drain ? I didnt bother but its better
to give it thought now, not later and costs very little as long
as the concreter is happy working around it.

[RevHead]

i had my old shed floor done it was 17m x 14m it had 6 pier pads ,gravel ,plastic ,etc ,it cost me 15k. this was in 2008

[Tony Nitrous]

November last year.
6m x 9m slab, 2 truck loads of crusher dust, remove palm tree's,
level site, pour thickening beam around edge, 2 roller doors,
2 single access doors, window with security grill, 2.7 high.
internal dividing wall, Done in the city with poor access,
whole package including plans and council approval and searches....

$15,000.

A gift from my Mrs.

[Aido]

I (http://www.crispsteel.com.au/index/productlist/37/1)n the process of shed building at the moment. 12x6x3.0 . Dont want a run of the mill colourbond shed but instead would prefer a timber clad shed that can be insulated and lined internally.
Savings can be had by DIY. Have costed Full DIY using timber frame comes to $3100 includes all timber for frame and tin for the roof...excludes doors, hardware, flashing, spouting, wiring etc etc.
Quote from Truss manufacturer for walls and trusses only - $5100 delivered
Quote from "Just add water insta shed" $9600 for the whole shebang excluding the slab plus another $1300 to have it errected.
Looking at these blokes http://www.crispsteel.com.au/index/productlist/37/1 now for simplicity in frame construction and clad in weatherboard.
Concrete is cheap but the labour and everything associated isnt and so size wise a 6x6m is not that much different to a 6x12. Have a quote for $3400 from a local concreter and I have to prep the site - level and 50mm crushed rock.

[fimpBIKES]

aido, have you asked for quoted for a carport?
then once its up and the council isnt looking studwall it and put on your boards ;)

[Aido]

The last building permit issued for this neighbourhood was back in 1976....or thereabouts. Asking around nobody has applied for a permit on renovations or sheds so I'm not about to buck the trend LOL.
Carport option wouldn't be feasible. Asked for Widespan to supply shed minus wall cladding - $6600. twice the price of building it myself from timber.

[pappas]

Timber frame and truss mob would be worth a try. They would probably supply completed frames and trusses ready to stand cheaper than you could buy the timber to build it yourself.

[Mishdog20]

Timber frame and truss mob would be worth a try. They would probably supply completed frames and trusses ready to stand cheaper than you could buy the timber to build it yourself.

Nah, when it comes to house frames, it costs about 3k more for pre-fabs compared to stick built. Labour is only marginally longer, and generally the stick built frames are a lot better quality, than the pre-fab option.

[ALBI]

The last building permit issued for this neighbourhood was back in 1976....or thereabouts. Asking around nobody has applied for a permit on renovations or sheds so I'm not about to buck the trend LOL.
Carport option wouldn't be feasible. Asked for Widespan to supply shed minus wall cladding - $6600. twice the price of building it myself from timber.
id still get the permit mate!!
all it takes is to piss someone off and ur gone ,council will tell you to pull down and if it damages the house or you have to make an insurance claim if not permited via council then insurance goneeeeee2

[Mishdog20]

id still get the permit mate!!
all it takes is to piss someone off and ur gone ,council will tell you to pull down and if it damages the house or you have to make an insurance claim if not permited via council then insurance goneeeeee2

Yeah its probably worth it. It is $600 bucks for a shed permit, and is pretty piss easy to get.

[sharky]

I thought streetfighter riders said bollox to permits lol

[Redmohawk]

If you do go the no permit route, just make sure its all to spec just in case you get a reaming later.

[Mishdog20]

I thought streetfighter riders said bollox to permits lol

I'm starting to get sick of getting fines:p