Clutch Issues

[Seifer]

Hey guys, my clutch wont work anymore. It wont roll in gear but was working fine yesterday. Seemed to die over night. When you hold on the clutch it pushes back out fine and you can feel the pressure when you hold in the lever. SO most likely where would the problem be> I'd rather not open the clutch to investigate as I can't be assed organising a new gasket for the cover. I will obviously if need to. Im pretty sure I torqued the clutch down properly but if a nut did come out would this cause the same issue. I'm thinking its more a pressure issue in the and around the hydraulics? Thoughts ppl?

[Deano]

if the nut came off or loose then you would find you lever getting longer and longer.

i would take off the clutch cover and have a look at what is happening when you pull the clutch in

[Seifer]

OK I took the cover off and without dismantling it looks as if every thing is operating fine. So the only thing left in my mind is the possibility that the plates have stuck together. What are the chances of this and can I fix it by simply taking it for a fang or will it "groan" require some dismantling. As I said the outer mechanism of the clutch is being pushed out when I pull the handle in, I just can't see in to see if the plates are following suit. Have I maybe put a spring in the wrong way also?

[Deano]

have you started the bike in neutral and then put it in gear. if it stalls with the clutch in then your plates are grabbing.

it could be that you have some air in the clutch and it isn't throwing far enough maybe.

best to start it and see what happens

[loosebruce]

Try the bolts on the slave cylinder near the sprocket cover, make sure the pushrod is going in straight.

[Seifer]

K new symptom, bike seems to have a bit of slip when in gear so basically its in a state of limbo, slight slip when gear in, very slight release when holding clutch down. Does this sound more like the clutch itself or the cylinder.

[Seifer]

Ok, the problem was that the cylinder didnb't release enough to let the clutch back in so it's now obvious the this is where the problem is. I get the feeling that it has a leak in it so looking at the below pic, does anyone know if part 27 operates as a seal. Its called a "cup" in the directory.
Again if anyone has a spare release cylinder lying around then please let me know.
Cheers

http://alpha-sports.com/supr/1990%20GSXR1100/11.gif

[Deano]

yep that is the seal. i have replaced a couple on mt bikes in the last couple of years.

if it is leaking you should be able to hear the fluid goig past the seal when you pull in the clutch, or fluid ripping on the ground

[Seifer]

Yeah, can def hear it it. Time to replace it me thinks.

[Gix11]

Anyone else had a problem with the retaining plate shitting (33) itself or is it just me?

[Deano]

usually only shits itself when the clutch is pulled in with the sprocket cover off the motor as the piston is coming out to far, just take it off, all it does is stop the piston coming out if you pull in the clutch and also keep some of the shit away from the seal to help it last longer. my track bike dosen't have one and the turbo bike wont have one either.

[Seifer]

Yeah looking at it I dont think I have one either.

[Seifer]

Ok I have the replacement part "cup." How do I dismantle the cylinder to replace the seal?

[Deano]

put a blow gun on your air compressor hose and stick it in the hole that the banjo bolt goes in and apply air pressure.

make sure you have something to catch it or fuck knows where it will end up

[Seifer]

Ok sorted, next problem, the replacement seal is a touch smaller than the one that was in there. Its def the right part tho. I've put it back together and when I blow through it can feel air from the seal. Based on the shape of it, will this expand when fluid is placed in there or do i have a dud?

[Seifer]

FFS its firing out fluid what a useless fucking part, I can't even get the cylinder to pop out now coz there is no seal.

[Gix11]

When you try and get old school bike parts from a dealer you never know what you end up with mate and really need to compare your old part to the new one closely. I still have to take the old item down on pick up to compare it even though they are convinced it is the right one. 5 times out of 10 it's the wrong piece.

[Deano]

i have never had an issue when installing them. they are usally alot tighter fit.

sounds like you have got the wrong one.

you didn't put it in backwards did you?

[Seifer]

NO I didnt, my clinder was in pretty rough condition, looks like it had been worn down by the chain so I have replaced it only to find......it made f-all difference. Dont think the master cylinder is dead so I guess that just leaves the clutch itself. I'll open it up again and re-tighten it. Be bloody good if this bike works one day.. Officially become the worlds biggest money pit.

[loosebruce]

It is worth bleeding at the top banjo connection as well as the bleed nippple as you can get bubbles at the top of the line.
Is the clutch slave piston mounted square into the housing as well as housing to case?
Is your clutch rod(23/24) bent/ binding?
Thrust bearing and spacer (21/22) OK/in right?
No bent teeth or warp on the clutch plates?
It will end up being something simple (and hopefully cheap to fix).

[Deano]

i would be pulling out the clutch plates and having a look as bruce said.

there is not alot to go wrong from the slave to the clutch

[Seifer]

Woot, was as I first thought, the plates had stuck together. Probably a result of me putting em back in fairly dry last time. Thanks for the help guys. Always the easiest thing huh.