old school GPZ info needed...

[kiwi kdx]

just wondering if anyone has fit a 1980-82 GPz1100 tank(the flat bottom tank)
to a 83-84 GPZ1100 rx as the ones that dip down at the back are fuck ugly!!!

i was chasing a 80-82 GPZ, but im now thinking a 83-84 may be better as they
are already mono shocked and put out a shit load more power!


only thing is, FUK i hate that 83 tank!!!!!

this is the tank i want on:
http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg173/d21terrano/gpz1100.jpg

and this is the fuk ugly tank that will be on the RX model:
http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg173/d21terrano/gpz1100rx.jpg

[kev@vcm]

talk to weasel hes the guru

[evad]

That bottom pic is not an RX its a a gpz1100zx 83 model
The gpz1000rx is a watercooled motor and came out a few years after.

http://www.custompeople.jp/expert/bull-docker-tagosgpz1000rx.html

[kiwi kdx]

ah i see then thats what i ment.....

ZX i hate that tank!!!!

and ignore RX all together i want an air cooled beast!

thanks mate!

[ozzy1100]

imo id keep the twin shock they look so much better than the uni shock
not a huge diff between the motors 83 84 did go to the 18 mm piston pin over the 17 before and a few other things
these bikes are what i really love to build mod tyres and running gear and tuned motor they are so tuff if i wasnt building a more
mod version in the zephyr the twin shock 1100 would be or the last of the 1000's like a z1r etc mmnnnn tastey

[kiwi kdx]

Ozzy u got me thinking mate........

lets have some input here.. twin shocks on a late modle underbraced swinger???
then i would have the monoshock hole in the swing arm free to run an underseat exhaust,
Triumph 675 tail unit maybe???

http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg173/d21terrano/twinshock.jpg

[K6Thou]

More angle on the shocks for me and maybe lift the tail an inch or so... My 2c.

[Dynomutt]

The GPz1100B1/B2 tank is pretty much the same as the Z1000J, Z1000R and Z1100R tanks, same goes for the side panels seat and seat unit. The later GPZ1100 unitrak motor has 18mm pins instead of 17mm pins, larger valves and different valve angles, the combustion chamber is a different shape, you can fit a unitrak head onto an early motor but you can't fit an early head on a late motor as the pistons will kiss the head as the later pistons are a different shape on the crown. fitting the late head on the early motor will also lower the compression, and the valve cutouts on the piston crown will also need looking at, especially using high lift cams.
The Unitrak cams are the highest lift of all the J series engines. The clutch on the late motor is a 6 spring job whereas the earlier are still 5 springs, as the earlier Z1000A motors. Gearbox bearings are different, you can swap boxes but it's not a straight drop in and requires work. The Z1100 shafty is the same basic motor as the GPz1100B1/2 just the outputshaft and bevel box need swapping to convert from shaft to chaindrive.
I've got a later 18mm pin crank and 1170 pistons and head on my Z1000J motor.
You can convert the later motors to run a Dyna S ignition system but you need to use the ignition housing from the earlier motor, and the mechanical advance assembly of the earlier motor.
Injection systems on the GPz1100, and GPZ1100 can be problematic, but many have been swapped out for carbs, from the Z1000J or flatslides.
I'm building an 1170cc draw through turbo GPZ1100A motor for someone at the moment.

[kiwi kdx]

now thats info!!!! thanks mate!

i have heard about the heads, im on the hunt fir the kidney shaped one, but i rekon all of the drag racing boys
have snapped them up!

any input about putting a B1/B2 tank on the ZX?

[ozzy1100]

The GPz1100B1/B2 tank is pretty much the same as the Z1000J, Z1000R and Z1100R tanks, same goes for the side panels seat and seat unit. The later GPZ1100 unitrak motor has 18mm pins instead of 17mm pins, larger valves and different valve angles, the combustion chamber is a different shape, you can fit a unitrak head onto an early motor but you can't fit an early head on a late motor as the pistons will kiss the head as the later pistons are a different shape on the crown. fitting the late head on the early motor will also lower the compression, and the valve cutouts on the piston crown will also need looking at, especially using high lift cams.
The Unitrak cams are the highest lift of all the J series engines. The clutch on the late motor is a 6 spring job whereas the earlier are still 5 springs, as the earlier Z1000A motors. Gearbox bearings are different, you can swap boxes but it's not a straight drop in and requires work. The Z1100 shafty is the same basic motor as the GPz1100B1/2 just the outputshaft and bevel box need swapping to convert from shaft to chaindrive.
I've got a later 18mm pin crank and 1170 pistons and head on my Z1000J motor.
You can convert the later motors to run a Dyna S ignition system but you need to use the ignition housing from the earlier motor, and the mechanical advance assembly of the earlier motor.
Injection systems on the GPz1100, and GPZ1100 can be problematic, but many have been swapped out for carbs, from the Z1000J or flatslides.
I'm building an 1170cc draw through turbo GPZ1100A motor for someone at the moment.

Mate I'm look at building a stout gpz street motor do u think the 83 84 18 mm motor is the way to go
Looking at rebuild, balanced welded crank, port work , dec standard cams? Rs mic carbs 36 mm ?
Dana 2000 and at least 1170 or if while it all apart worth lineing and going bigger but don't think over 1320
Still up in the air in design stage but looks like the way to go for my zephyr project

[Tony Nitrous]

I like the early Z1100R shape boxy bodywork,
but I cant see anything wrong with the later shape.
There have been some very tasty bikes done
(750 Turbo and GPZ1100) using those panels and tank.
Once the the huge rear guard and pipes have gone,
a little lift at the rear and they look quite sharp and aggessive.

[Dynomutt]

1170cc is the easiest as it is just a simple overbore of the stock sleeves. To go to 1260 requires both a resleeve, and the crankcase mouths opening up to accomodate the bigger sleeves. I've done several 1260cc motors, instead of using aftermarket sleeves, I use GSXR1052 sleeves in the Kawasaki block, they require the brim turning down slightly but fit great and bore to 78mm fine. 78mm would be 1109cc on the 1052 motor. Instead of paying £60 per sleeve, you can pick up a used 1052 block for around the price on one aftermarket sleeve.

With a 1260cc motor you will get more heat, so run a larger oilcooler, or as I have done on a 1260cc MagII use 2 coolers. I have also 'dry blocked' the motor and run external oil feeds to the head, which heps supply cooler oil to the cams, and gets around the issue of leaking at the base gasket that afflicts many big Z/GPZ motors.

The 1260cc motor will take a bit more effort to spin the motor over, I fit a starter motor from a Honda CB900/1100, and use a YTZ14 battery (same small size as a YTX9) with 230CCA.
The Honda starter motor is 0.8Kw rather than 0.6Kw of the OEM unit, the Honda starter motor requires a little work to be able to rotate the body around slightly so that the main feed cable doesn't arc out on the sprcket cover. This requires removal of the end cap and a die grinder to remove a couple of lugs inside the end cap to prevent internal arcing. I also run a dedicated earth strap from the battery to the mounting bolt of the starter motor. I have no problem spinning over a 1260cc Z/GPZ motors now even when hot, and the starter clutch gets a much easier time of it.
I also use the flywheel rotor from a GPZ500 twin, it is a direct replacement for the Z/GPZ item, and has a better magnet design which don't tend to break up like the originals do, you can use the KLE500,ER5,EN440 family of flywheel rotors, the Z750 twin unit will also fit but the sprag clutch needs replacing with the Z/GPZ item and a small lip needs machining off the rear to get it to fit.

On a road motor you can use either RS36 or RS38, A Dyna 'S' ignition will be fine to use, along with a DRL300 rev limiter, and green dyna 3 ohm coils. I'd only use the Dyna2000 if I was running turbo or gas on the motor and needed to retard the ignition.
The Dyna 'S' will fit on the later GPZ motor, by using an earlier ignition housing and a mechanical advance unit.

I'd go with an APE manual camchan tensioner, and APE H/D cylinder studs and nuts, I usually fit a gate in the sump to prevent oil starvation under hard acceleration, a windage tray under the crank is a good idea to help reduce oil frothing, and on a higher power 1260cc motor I'd also be looking at fitting APE H/D crankcase studs, and beefing up the centre main bearing retainer.

[ozzy1100]

thanks kindly for the info mate
im hopeing to get down to mid to low 10s with the gpz combo(would love more but still want it nice on the street)
the bloke i crew for on his gpz used to run a 1170 and loved it before the bigger motor but i only want to do it once dont want to get down the track and wish i went for more. i will be useing big after market cooler and a oil thermostat
the standard zephyr motor with megaphone, kn filter, factory pro kit tune and 5 dec advance was only good for 87 at the wheel and flat 12 high very high 11s :(