Battery options?

[Iceman]

Ok, seeing as electricity is not my strong point, (not that I have a strong point when it come to motorcycles) I need some advice.

I have two bikes in need of battery replacement. As quite a few of you know the GS ran out of electricity on the way to the xmas party last year and I want to replace the standard battery with something a little smaller but with plenty of power to keep all the extra electrical bits going.

My other problem is, now that i have the busa swing arm and shock in the katana, there is no room for the standard battery, so I am in need of something smaller to make it go.

Any suggestions?

[80s freak]

I us Motobatt, they are excellent, check online as to what CCAs your original battery is, then go to http://www.motobatt.com.au/ and go from there as long as you're close to standard CCA you'll be fine.. They are a sealed battery so you can mount them anyway you want.

[fimpBIKES]

ive had success with these people lately
www.allpurposebatteries.com.au (http://www.allpurposebatteries.com.au/)

quick delivery and much cheaper than shops

[Chase]

The electricals are powered by the stator/alternator once the bike is running, with the battery merly holds the charge and used for getting the bike started in th first place.... So the theory would be that you need to make sure you have enough amps being generated to run what your powering. if you are still running standard globes you might want to swap em out for led (indicator and instrument) and look at what headlight globes you're using to reduce drain especially if you're going to use something smaller like a race battery. Have you had the current out of the reg checked?

[Redmohawk]

Chase is spot on , you alt supplys all power needs . Battery gets you going and runs stuff for a little bit when motor isnt going but thats about it. More capacity only puts more load on your electrical system over a certain point.

A sealed lead acid battery of the same (amp hour) capacity will be lighter smaller and can be mounted in any postion also more vibration resistant. One of the same size will have a larger capacity of about 25%. The internal resistance of most sealed lead acid battery are lower then average floaded bike batterys (standard units) so give a higher Cold cranking amps for a similar battery or similar for a much smaller battery.

Seal lead acid is the most comon replacement of a standard battery atm , as there chemistry is amost the same as a standard battery charging etc are close enough to just swap and away you go. Spiral wound lead acid will improve the stats again but at a significant cost increase.

Sealed lead acid batterys from electronics stores in the sizes you would need come with spade conectors (instead of bolt on conectors like most motorbike batterys) but are esentially the same as big brand motorcyle seal lead acid units. The cost difference between a "Bike sealed battery" and a cheap unit can be significant .

Jacar sell units for around $30 that will be fine in most 600 road bikes , mine is 2 years old in November been flattened to 2 volts 3 times has had the lights left on for 30 min or so twice (dumb dumb I am) left for 8 weeks in winter till a little to flat etc etc still runs fine no issues. Is mounted under tail exposed to rear tyre shit.

[hooligan]

My explanation is much shrter than red's, but i use motobatt in the vfr and ktm motard. I found a motobatt battery that was small enough to fit in the ninja 250 battery box, but could hold enough juice to start the vfr 800 easily, even after sitting idle for a month.

[oohsam]

i did alot of research on small batteries that could power my bike.
its a 83 GS1100. big, heavy, needs lots of crank to start but I had little space to put a battery.

End up buying this :
783

782

That is a 12 cell battery. It basically contains 12 A123 batteries which are Lithium Ion. It is recommended for 1200cc bikes. If your bike is smaller, you can go a 6 or 8 cell.

They are hooked up all together and designed and tested for motorcycle batteries. You can see how small that is, it starts my GS1100 no worries.

The good thing that they can wire in directly to your Reg/Rec to use your bikes charging system to charge. The catch here is you need to ensure your reg/rec is providing the right amount of current. It will not last long with a reg/rec that is putting out too much. Trust me, I know first hand. The good thing though is that when I did send it 17 volts for 15 mins, it sizzled and smoked up but they do NOT catch fire. Just poured water on it to calm it down and chucked it.

Expensive exercise.
My reg/rec was not connected properly. Once this was fixed, all good. Had to get another one.

You can make them for a very cheap lump of cash (buy good quality a123's and watch some youtube vids, plenty out there).

This one cost me 200 you can the newish ones which look more like a battery (same size) from the manufacturer from the states.

test sycl is the brand.

Also Shorai make a similar unit which is small and light. Just as expensive.

This thing is amazing how small it is....as you can see in the pics. Let me know if you want more info.

I might just make one next. should cost under 60 dollars.

[80s freak]

Going to be chasing this up, good post mate.

[xa-mont]

I've got a Shorai in my DRZ and it is an awesome little thing that packs a huge punch (and will keep cranking for AGES)

[Iceman]

That looks like the kinda thing I need. Nice one!

[BANDITROD]

i was looking at those a while ago and i think it was tony nitrous who said they are good when they work cos if the drop a cell thats it they are fucked and from what i heard that happens alot when dealing with lipo

[xa-mont]

i have only really hear a lot of hearsay about them going to shit... never actually read about anyones first hand experience with them. So i figure i'll use mine till (if) i have an issue with it. so far though it works fine and cranks and cranks and cranks.

[playswithnitro]

Old Gold Spares at Londonderry sell a variety of Australian-assembled batteries. Made with A123 cells in a variety of configurations. I know a few people using them in race and track-day bikes without a problem. I've had a good look at them and how they're put together by Ripperton: Bloody good work.

Phone Steve on 02 4574 2885

[xa-mont]

any idea on price?

[playswithnitro]

Fucked if I remember. Ring him. He's a good bloke and honest.

They're little buggers.

[Dynomutt]

Depending on the space you have available, a YTZ14 is the battery I use on most of the builds I undertake. Same size as a YTX9 L150mm X W87mm X H110mm but with 230CCA, which is more than enough to spin up a large bore high compression motor. I use them on the FZR1066 13-1 C/R, and my 1170cc Z/GPZ motor which is 11-1C/R. They have more than enough capacity to start a big aircooled motor when cold, and will fit in most modern battery boxes.

[Hillsy]

If you're talking $200+ for a LiFePO setup, you can get 3 or 4 lead acid batteries for that money. That should last you about 10 years.

Just sayin......

[playswithnitro]

If you're talking $200+ for a LiFePO setup, you can get 3 or 4 lead acid batteries for that money. That should last you about 10 years.
Just sayin......

I agree. Just put an old-fashioned wet battery in my GPz1170. Weight is the last thing I need to worry about...

But if you're trying to chase every last gram or hide everything behind the number plate, one of these mini batteries is an option.

[nick76]

Rippertons batteries look like this.
http://i.imgur.com/K040z.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/9K1qU.jpg
8 Cell ones are H89mm,W57mm,L112mm. Weigh 730grams
4 Cell ones are H78mm,W58mm,L58mm. Weigh 376grams.
I think individual cells are about $10 each.
And you can't use a normal battery charger,you'll have to buy a special lithium charger.
The 8 cell ones used to be about $180 posted,but that was a while ago,still far cheaper than the plastic wrapped versions you find on eGay.
4 cell ones will be ok for trackbikes,8 cell for the roadies. Big twins may need to 8 cell packs in parallel.
Call Ripper tho,he'll tell you whats needed exactly.

[xa-mont]

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Shorai-Lithium-Motorcycle-Battery-LFX14A2-BS12-/190580483786?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c5f7b66ca#ht_3004wt_1156

$175ish posted, in a nice tidy box, also comes with heaps of sticky foam panels to pad out your battery box to fit it. That is the size recommended for litre twins

[Redmohawk]

All lipo battery types have a different charge rate and voltage to lead acid and are generally "JUST" compatable with a bike charging system. Ie even the all concering A123 cells will die in around a tenth of there designed life span, through damage mostly from overcharging.

If you have more money than god,race, or only ride when the sun shines but not to hot and there is a coffee shop at the end of the ride then go for it, otherwise just use sealed lead acid. Last for ages better than normal floaded cells in every way cheaper than stock batterys if you use cheap units and will out last 4 lipo battery packs used without the correct charger and ridden regulally.

Lipos are for racing or wank factor , great way to throw away money if you don't NEED them.