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Ruffy
29-12-2011, 08:03 PM
well guys, first ride back on the road and it has started already....

decided to take the zzr to queenbeyan today from cooma to get the blue slip done..rode great on the way up, not a problem, but as soon as we where back on the road to head home, she started playing up. rpm needle telling me i was at 11thou when i was only sitting on 3thou, reaching 9though and suddenly bogging down, and 2 backfires..

so by williamsdale it didnt want too sit on 100 happily in 6th, so i had to make the decision to leave it locked up at williamsdale servo tonight, and get the missus to drive me back.

so i need to find someone on here that has had alot of experience/ knows a bit about them, to have a chat too??, because the minute it gets off the ute tomorrow, it will be getting stripped down. :(

Cheers,
Ruffy.

Redmohawk
29-12-2011, 09:07 PM
Sounds like a dodgie connector in the loom around coil/ignitor or earth .

BANDITROD
29-12-2011, 09:08 PM
yeah coils would have been my guess

Ruffy
29-12-2011, 09:12 PM
could this be helping cause it to not want to rev properly, ? :confused:

BANDITROD
29-12-2011, 09:17 PM
it sure would .....what other details can you give us i.e year and klms mate

Ruffy
29-12-2011, 09:22 PM
2000 mod, 60thou k's...i may also add that she had a flat batt today before i left, so i chucked the starter pack on it too jump it, but then as soon as the bike got a chance too idle, it would die straight away....had to hold it at 2.5 revs to stop it from dying..thats a new problem developed today aswell for it...

K6Thou
29-12-2011, 09:34 PM
Regulator/rectifier, stator or coils by the sound of it.

Ruffy
29-12-2011, 09:48 PM
ok guys just had a chat with kev on the phone aswell, we are leaning towards exactly what you guys have mentioned, and im thinking the booster pack this arvo was the cause of the damage.....?

Cheers,
Ruffy

Redmohawk
30-12-2011, 08:59 AM
Possable the booster pack caused it , but unlikely. The dead battery will draw large current continusly and if its really dead (a cell cactus or the whole battery) bringing the loom voltage down. Low volts at the coils means crap spark and no revs plus large current into battery means its hard to turn over coils hence wont idle (as well as crap spark).

There have been several bike mechanics on here post up how to check all of these things. Use the search function on the forum, you will need a multimeter (cheap one will cost you $10) put a new battery in it and test the lot. Should sort your prob.

Ruffy
30-12-2011, 09:41 AM
alright mate cheers, got a ute lined up today to go and get it, and its kept at the inlaws in a shed with just about every tool you could imagine :D so there should be a multimeter there...ill let you know how i go.

Cheers,
Ruffy

BANDITROD
30-12-2011, 02:56 PM
yeah i cant see the booster pack causing i am in total agreeance with Red on this one mate

Ruffy
30-12-2011, 08:57 PM
well fella's, brought her back home today, and pulling the battery out, found it to be dead dry............................................... ............................................

probably hasnt helped..... :p

so i have filled it back up, and its on a revive charge overnight, so tomorrow morning i shall fit it back, and take her for a spin down the road to see how she feels.

on another note, who do i speak to about becoming a donating member? and what are the little green squares for? lol

Cheers,
Ruffy.

BANDITROD
30-12-2011, 09:03 PM
click on the membership tab ^^^^^^^^^^^up there and those little green things is to do with reputation on asf

Ruffy
30-12-2011, 09:05 PM
yeah just found it lol should have looked a little harder....so why have mine gone from none to what is there now..? (completely out of interest)

Cheers,
Ruffy

BANDITROD
30-12-2011, 09:10 PM
someone has given you rep points but untill you become a donating member they wont show up if that makes sense

Ruffy
30-12-2011, 09:15 PM
oh cool, no worries..that will be on the "next payday" list then.

cheers for the help and ill let ya know how i go tomorrow, hopefully it will fix it, then its on to sort out a minor overheating issue. :confused:

cheers.

BANDITROD
30-12-2011, 09:22 PM
i would say its definatly the battery mate make sure its not fucked before you go to the trouble of putting it back in

oldskool
30-12-2011, 09:30 PM
The battery will be fucked replace it, it sounds like the bike may be over charging witch has boiled the battery dry, check the charge rate on a new fully charged battery.

Yella
31-12-2011, 07:23 AM
The battery will be fucked replace it, it sounds like the bike may be over charging witch has boiled the battery dry, check the charge rate on a new fully charged battery.

+1 may be a stuffed rec reg that baked it or may just be an old battery that needed some love either way if it is dry chances are its gone get a new one and check the charge rate

Ruffy
06-01-2012, 07:08 PM
soo...back from another week away at work.

had a chance to put the revived battery back in today just to make sure that was the problem before i go and buy a new one..seems to be back to perfect. thanks fellas.. idling normally, revving out, not a single hiccup on a short burst to see if she was running right. seems to have fixed it, couldnt be happier. :)


cheers guys,
Ruffy.

Yella
06-01-2012, 08:30 PM
did you check the charge rate??

BANDITROD
06-01-2012, 08:36 PM
glad to hear you got it sorted mate

Mishdog20
07-01-2012, 12:13 AM
What yella said up there was a good point mate. Check to make sure that the charge rate is at least 13.5 volts when the bike is idling. Bloody batteries give ya the shits, ive gone through 2 sealed ones in the past year.

Ruffy
07-01-2012, 05:45 PM
okay....we seem to now have a possibly major problem.

topped the coolant up today, went to check the oil indicator window....nice white oil.

FUCK SAKE!

so, from what i understand, it could be a couple of things, starting from the best outcome to the worst:

1. condensation (but i doubt it)
2.water pump (will be pressure testing that tomorrow)
3.head gasket.
4. cracked head......


fucking bikes.......;)

Cheers,
Ruffy

BANDITROD
07-01-2012, 05:57 PM
fuck mate that doesnt sound to good but to lighten the mood i know a few guys have had the same trouble here and it turned out to be caused by only going for short rides and condensation building up inside the clutch cover ..so hopefully it might be nothing to worry about mate

Ruffy
07-01-2012, 06:08 PM
yeah mate i'm going to drop the oil tomoz, and see if there is marginally more liquid then i replaced last time i changed it, and if there is, may just strip the head off...

is there a website you know of to download workshop manuals as pdf's?

im also unsure as to how to pressure the test the water pump with compressed air, its all new to me, so bear with me cause im sure there are going to be some stupid questons throughout the potential fixing time...

Cheers

BANDITROD
07-01-2012, 06:12 PM
there is a link in the how to section for downloading manuals and as for the water pump i have never had to do it so i couldnt tell you mate

BANDITROD
07-01-2012, 06:14 PM
http://www.streetfighters.com.au/forum/showthread.php?25-OE-service-manuals-on-adobe-pdf

Ruffy
07-01-2012, 06:49 PM
thanks mate ill see what hes got,

Redmohawk
07-01-2012, 11:01 PM
For a quick indication , rad cap off when cold start bike run for a bit at idle look to see if bubbles apear (you will know if its a major hole as water will go everywhere ) if its a little leak you might see a few.

If you rev it (a little not to redline) the water level will drop a little but will flow and foam up if there is an issue . To check if its leaking at water pump , quick easy test is look under water pump should be a hole in pumps outer where shaft runs between bearings. If pump has an issue water should run out of hole before it gets into oil. If hole is blocked its possable to get water into oil through pump but unlikely.

I'd drain oil and look for water , ie a fair amount will be obvious (but water/coolant going down will be to) re fill and go for a short ride , if all looks good go for a longer ride to heat oil properly to boil off any condensation.

If you havent been riding the old girl much and then only a few short rides condenstaion sounds more likely than a blown head gasket or water pump issue.

Redmohawk
07-01-2012, 11:04 PM
A radiator joint can pressure test it for you if your still unsure , and a compression test of all cyls will give you a quick indication as well you want somewhere around 5 psi difference between cyls (ideal)

Ruffy
08-01-2012, 01:26 PM
wow. thanks heaps mate.

ill have to check all that when i get back from work this week.

cheers,
Ruffy