Deano
24-09-2007, 09:59 PM
this is a rough guide about how to fit k1-k3 gsxr guages to your early model gsxr.
first of all you need to get yourself a wiring diagram for both the bike that the donor gauges came from and the bike you plan to transplant the onto.
the followning example is fitting k1-k2 gauges to a 93 water cooled gsxr7/11.
the easiest way i found to do this job was to get yourself as much of the wiring loom that the gauges came from.
you will also need a speed sensor and trigger wheel. if fitting to a oil cooled gsxr you can buy yourself a second gen bandit
sprocket cover and that already has the hole for mounting the speed sensor.
http://www.streetfighters.com.au/forum/upload/1023381951274989.JPG
bandit sprocket cover
for this job i got the gauges the headligh/guage loom and a full wiring loom from the same bike. the main reason that i got
the full wiring loom was to get the connector that joins the gauges to the loom.
http://www.streetfighters.com.au/forum/upload/1023381951286430.JPG
note the two k series connectors near the coil
http://www.streetfighters.com.au/forum/upload/1023381951229409.JPG
gauge/headlight wiring loom
below is a list of what the wires on the gauges go to
Bl/B - Blue/Black - Neutral Light
Y - Yellow - Hi Beam
Lg - Light Green - Turn
B - Black - Turn
R/Bl - Red/Blue - Fuel Pump
Gr - Grey - back lighting
B/W - Black/White - Earth
B/R - Black/Red - Speed sensor – Power
P - Pink - Speed
Y/Bl - Yellow/Blue - rpm signal
B/G - Black/Green - tech wire
B/W - Black/White - Earth
B/Lg - Black/Light Green - Fuel Light
G/Y - Green/Yellow - Oil Pressure
O/G - Orange/Green - Power
from there you just need to find the wire that preforms the same function on your loom and join them together.
the speed sensor trigger that bolts to the output shaft is held on with a 8mm shcs. the water cooled output shaft only
has a 6mm tapped hole, i machined up a small spacer to reduce the 8mm to 6mm and that solved that problem and i was
able to then bolt the trigger to the output shaft.
http://www.streetfighters.com.au/forum/upload/1023381951186858.JPG
speed sensor and trigger fitted to sprocket cover and output shaft
the speed sensor has to be mounted within a couple of mm of the trigger or it will not work. the pic shows my makeshift
bracket holding the sensor till i can be bothered doing something better.
i believe that he early oil cooled motors didn't have the drilled and tapped hole inthe output shaft and then that
creates another problem which is fitting the trigger wheel to the output shaft.
the black and green wire that is marked above as the tech wire is the wire that supplies a digital signal to the
dash from the ecu. this wire would carry the temp signal, the fault codes and probably other stuff i cant think off,
this been the case you will be unable to get the CHEC off the gauge as you can't duplicate the ecu's signal to remove
this from the screen. i will still have to run a seperate water temp gauge.
the yellow and blue wire is your rpm signal and should be hooked up to your ignition module, i believe it is a black and red
wire on gsxr's if you hook it up to a coil you could fry you dash.
the black and white wires are all earths
the orange and green wire is switchable positive and the pink/blue wire is the wire that turns the gauges on, i joined the
orange/green and pink/blue and grey to the same power source
http://www.streetfighters.com.au/forum/upload/1023381951200375.JPG
the end result
i hope this helps anyone that is thinking about doing this same conversion.
a big thanks to Exben and Stocky for there help.
first of all you need to get yourself a wiring diagram for both the bike that the donor gauges came from and the bike you plan to transplant the onto.
the followning example is fitting k1-k2 gauges to a 93 water cooled gsxr7/11.
the easiest way i found to do this job was to get yourself as much of the wiring loom that the gauges came from.
you will also need a speed sensor and trigger wheel. if fitting to a oil cooled gsxr you can buy yourself a second gen bandit
sprocket cover and that already has the hole for mounting the speed sensor.
http://www.streetfighters.com.au/forum/upload/1023381951274989.JPG
bandit sprocket cover
for this job i got the gauges the headligh/guage loom and a full wiring loom from the same bike. the main reason that i got
the full wiring loom was to get the connector that joins the gauges to the loom.
http://www.streetfighters.com.au/forum/upload/1023381951286430.JPG
note the two k series connectors near the coil
http://www.streetfighters.com.au/forum/upload/1023381951229409.JPG
gauge/headlight wiring loom
below is a list of what the wires on the gauges go to
Bl/B - Blue/Black - Neutral Light
Y - Yellow - Hi Beam
Lg - Light Green - Turn
B - Black - Turn
R/Bl - Red/Blue - Fuel Pump
Gr - Grey - back lighting
B/W - Black/White - Earth
B/R - Black/Red - Speed sensor – Power
P - Pink - Speed
Y/Bl - Yellow/Blue - rpm signal
B/G - Black/Green - tech wire
B/W - Black/White - Earth
B/Lg - Black/Light Green - Fuel Light
G/Y - Green/Yellow - Oil Pressure
O/G - Orange/Green - Power
from there you just need to find the wire that preforms the same function on your loom and join them together.
the speed sensor trigger that bolts to the output shaft is held on with a 8mm shcs. the water cooled output shaft only
has a 6mm tapped hole, i machined up a small spacer to reduce the 8mm to 6mm and that solved that problem and i was
able to then bolt the trigger to the output shaft.
http://www.streetfighters.com.au/forum/upload/1023381951186858.JPG
speed sensor and trigger fitted to sprocket cover and output shaft
the speed sensor has to be mounted within a couple of mm of the trigger or it will not work. the pic shows my makeshift
bracket holding the sensor till i can be bothered doing something better.
i believe that he early oil cooled motors didn't have the drilled and tapped hole inthe output shaft and then that
creates another problem which is fitting the trigger wheel to the output shaft.
the black and green wire that is marked above as the tech wire is the wire that supplies a digital signal to the
dash from the ecu. this wire would carry the temp signal, the fault codes and probably other stuff i cant think off,
this been the case you will be unable to get the CHEC off the gauge as you can't duplicate the ecu's signal to remove
this from the screen. i will still have to run a seperate water temp gauge.
the yellow and blue wire is your rpm signal and should be hooked up to your ignition module, i believe it is a black and red
wire on gsxr's if you hook it up to a coil you could fry you dash.
the black and white wires are all earths
the orange and green wire is switchable positive and the pink/blue wire is the wire that turns the gauges on, i joined the
orange/green and pink/blue and grey to the same power source
http://www.streetfighters.com.au/forum/upload/1023381951200375.JPG
the end result
i hope this helps anyone that is thinking about doing this same conversion.
a big thanks to Exben and Stocky for there help.