Can't bleed brakes

[Seifer]

Ok, I can strip the engine down to the gear box, swap out third gear and put it all together again. But somehow I can't figure out how to bleed my f'ing brakes and clutch. My brakes after bleeding are rubbing against the discs slightly and the clutch is being held slightly, the lever has almost no slack and i can almost push it when in gear. So where am i going wrong? I'm opening the nipple, squeezing the handle and then closing the nipple. Then rpt. Why is it getting stuck on? And what do I need to do to fix. Is the clutch a different issue?

There's a thread in the maintenance section on difficult brakes, Gix or one of the others may point you to it. Brake pads do rub slightly (fit some sintered brake pads and you'll hear them rub whenever you push the bike anywhere), you sure that it's excessive rubbing?

Has the clutch been re-assembled correctly? A bleeding issue there should result in the clutch not releasing correctly, ie you will get drag on the clutch when you have it pulled in, not the other way round.

[Seifer]

Yeah look I'm not too sure what is wrong with the clutch. It hasn't been taken apart but I was fiddling around with the caliper. Was very stiff and did't pop in and out very easily. Basic symptoms are clutch lever is stiff and giving comlete resistance as you pull it in, and that I can push the bike when in gear... not eaasily but you can.
SHould the caliper piston slide in and out freely or not? Cause right now its more of a tough click into place.

[Seifer]

I'm also thinking that I may have put one of the diaghram springs in the wrong way in the clutch itslef causing the clutch to push in the opposit direction...is this possible. Its a gixxer 11.

The calipers may need a clean out, check the pistons for corrosion, buggered seals etc. They aren't a light push in and out, but they should be smooth.
Check that the clutch actuator rod is in the right way round (what's the bike?) and aligned correctly. Definitely sounds like a mechanical rather than hydraulic issue though.
What may have happened is that the piston has been pushed out too far when being activated while not mounted correctly on the motor, and is now not retracting correctly, ergo being able to push the bike while in gear.

[Watto]

mate might need to get your brake calipers higher than your master cylinder to bleed them - I had a similar problem when I fitted the radials on my bike - spent a couple of hours trying to bleed them when fitted in place and no go - placed them higher than the master cylinder and had 'em done in about 15 mins

don;t know about the clutch as only have ever had cable not hydraulic

hope this helps

[Seifer]

Think you may be right there chalk, as i said its a gsxr 1100. I dropped the clutch cylinder just before putting it in which definately pushed it out, I dont think I pushed it back in. Ill take it out and redo it. you never know...

[Hillsy]

Go the syringe method for bleeding:

http://www.streetfighters.com.au/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=2779&whichpage=1&SearchTerms=bleeding

It works

[Seifer]

OK I just re bled the clutch but am still having the same problem so I'm going to assume that something in the clutch is the wrong way around, is it possible that putting in those two disc springs the wrong way around would cause this. Which way do they face, with the cone pointing towards or away from the engine? Any ideas what could cause the clutch to be held in permanently?

[cutcat]

Seifer, If you didn't put extra oil between the clutch plates during assembly, she will grab until you take her for a fang. Becareful when you first put her in first gear as she might jump forward pretty hard. Best to do this with your front wheel against a wall.
As for the diaphram spring, if it has something to push on it won't be dire. The secret with working out which way they go is to look for the wear marks where they once rubbed. Sometimes difficult to do.
Good luck.

when you bolted on the engine cover was it difficult to get flush with the crank case? If so check that the piston is seating correctly. With the cover offput the bike in gear and see if you can still push it. Slowly work your way back into the box, where you did the work, verify selector rods and etc are correctly mounted, clutch engages the box correctly.

[Seifer]

nah there is extra oil there, i've jsut emptied the oil so i'll have a look inside the clutch in a sec! what should I be lloking for. I unfortuantely no FA about clutches.

Send Deano, or OzKat a message, they're more experienced on the GSXR11's, GSX11's (which are all cable operated) and early Kwaka hydraulics are more my thing, being the old fart that I am.

Do you have the workshop manual for it?

[loosebruce]

Sounds like your clutch slave cyl is a bit out of alignment.
It can go on a bit crooked and push the rod in too far.
These are the three bolts that also go through the front sprocket cover.

[Seifer]

Ok bit more info. THe clutch cylinder under the sprocket cover has been pretty rippied up from where the chain was rubbing against it. However it was working fine before I stripped the engine so no reason why it shouldnt now. I took off the sprocket cover and cylinder obviously, and have found that the clutch is still not moving back. Obviously not cylinder related. So into the clutch, when I move the bike around the outer basket is stationary whilst the inner is moving around. When I put the clutch together, the haynes manual says start with a friction plate. If i did this I would fall short by one friction plate. (its a possibility I've lost one) BUt according to the exploded diagram in alphasports the first plate in is a steel, with last being a friction...as i have it now. There is room for one more plate to be added, only just, not sure of the requirements for plates.
I think the prblem is in the spring pushing back the clutch hub. I reckon I havent secured the bolt properly holding in the two spring. This means there is nothing to push back on properly.
Can I just confirm with someone - On the GSXR 1100 slingys, the two springs, do they go in the same way as eachother or in opposite to eachother.
I'll do a proper strip down tommorrow and check everything else is ok.

[Seifer]

OK case closed, springs are def facing the wrong way. Cheers for your help ppl.